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Corvettes and all things about them

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Comments

  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    I've gotten both our Vette's from Fichtner and later added the GMPP, the price is great and when I took my '02 in after warranty, they copied paper work, and I picked the car up without a question from the local dealer service dept. Shop around and I'm betting you won't do any better.
    Randy
  • jcledadjcledad Member Posts: 1
    I recently inherited a 1979 corvette and need options on ground clearance. At the current clearance of 4" or so I will bottom out going into my driveway. Is there a way to increase the ground clearance without making the car look ridiculous? Thanks.
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    No need to increase the ground clearance. Just go in and out of your driveway are really sharp angles. My driveway is on an incline. I don't scrap at all. Just remember sharp angles.
  • havazuhavazu Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2002 c5 convert. Has anyone here ever put a wind deflector on their vette. If so is it worth the money?
  • mrboogedymrboogedy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 vette. The driver side door lock was always a little erratic when using the fob; then it stopped working. Shortly thereafter, the passenger side door lock stopped working with the fob also. The dealer wanted $500 to replace the locking solenoids in both doors. I didn't replace either because I suspect that this is a defective system in this model of vettes; and I'd have bet I'd be revisiting this problem again in the future. I'm reduced to unlocking my vette with the key - how quaint!
  • mrboogedymrboogedy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 vette with automatic transmission. I've been experiencing a balky shift out of park - (push the brake pedal, then shift into gear). Recently I couldn't get it out of park, and I used some advice from the owners manual to get it to work again. I took it to the dealer; and for a $100, they couldn't find anything wrong. It continued to be balky until recently when I couldn't get it out of park no matter what I tried. Before I have it towed back to the dealer for some kind of remedy (?); has anyone else had this problem, or any ideas about what to do next?
  • embeedueceembeeduece Member Posts: 260
    Hey guys. I usually hang out in the Jeep Wrangler group, but my sister just bought a 1980 Corvette. Not a big fan of this particular car, even though I like Vettes in general. I've read here it's not a very collectible year, and I think she's got the basest engine possible. I understand it's a 25 year old car, and will have quirks, but I'm really wary of the aftermarket interior (seats, dash, steering wheel, etc). Can't even guarantee the engine is original. All of this is to ask where a good place is to find parts and accessories, preferably online. I've been poking around eBay, but am hoping there's a place, or places, online that are reputable. And a source to find what parts/accessories actually pair with this vehicle (maybe a Chilton's or an original owner's manual). If it helps, for a leads on a brick & mortar store, we're located in Southern Cal.

    Thanks,
    Mike

    P.S. Priority number one -- finding an aftermarket cupholder!!! ;)
  • embeedueceembeeduece Member Posts: 260
    Thanks for the leads!

    -Mike
  • xkssxkss Member Posts: 722
    Chevrolet won the ALMS GT1 Championship and went 1-2 at Road America

    Corvette Racing
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    I had the oil changed on my 04 a week or two ago, and just realized yesterday that they did not reset the "oil life remaining" message on the DIC. I figured if I just held the reset button down it would recycle, but when I did that it came up with ___ ___ ___% for that reading. I couldn't figure out how to get the 100% numbers to appear in the reading. Can anyone help or did I screw the pooch by holding the reset too long? :shades:
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    No problem---you probably had the car running. The bible saith: "TURN IGNITION SWITCH TO ON, WITH THE ENGINE OFF. PRESS RESET AND HOLD FOR TWO SECONDS." Bingo, you get the 100%.
    That should do it for you.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Yes, you are correct, I was running at the instant I noticed it had not been changed. Thanks. I need to re-read the manual again. I try to do that about every six months just so things eventually sink in. :shades:
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Tried the suggested fix and it worked with no sweat. Thanks again. :shades:
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    No problem bigmike...I may even remember it myself next time.
    Am on my second C5 and EVERY time I get the oil changed I have to get the manual out to do the reset!
    I merely blame it on old age!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    And speaking of age...what was my question again???lol :shades:
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Member Posts: 36
    I see a 40th anniversary on e-bay (no. 4571814140), but it is black. It looks like from the pictures that there is a 40 emblem on the two front quarter panels, and an embroidered 40 on the seatbacks. But I thought the 40th only came in ruby red. The car looks nice, price seems fair. Can someone explain why this apparent 40th anniversary car is black?
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Had many 40th's to look at and got lots of info. All were ruby red! Sounds like
    a badge change. Of course it might be real and original paperwork might suggest that is so, but I'd be very careful with that one.
    Randy
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Member Posts: 36
    Thanks Randy. After doing a lot of web research, I agree. The 40th's were Ruby Red. In any case the black vette sold this morning. Thanks for your comment.
  • tman7258tman7258 Member Posts: 1
    This is my first vette and would like to do most of the repairs and upgrades myself. I'm getting a high ptched buzzing noise that sounds like it is feeding through the sound system, but I turned it off and it is still happening. It sounds to me like a grounding fault in the electrical, because when I turn my blinker on I can hear it pull the high pitched noise down a little. Can someone please help?
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    I'm just curious as to when the C5 stopped production in 2004. Did they stop it before CY '04, or continue to make it until the end of the model year in July? Just wondering because I've seen them with build dates as late as 4/04.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    My wife's 04 was delivered in June '04 and it was the last available order through Fichtner Chevy so they built out the entire model year. Total production was just over 34k compared to 35.5k in '03 so the drop off in volume prior to the C6 was not all that great.
  • iculookiniculookin Member Posts: 3
    im looking to buy a 2002 z06 any ideas where
  • iculookiniculookin Member Posts: 3
    also the eagles are winnning 35-3 over san fran coool....
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Corvette Conti on the net was advertising one by private sale that someone wanted to sell and I think the price was $85K. Good frickin luck on getting one at a reasonable price. Think I saw one listed in Autoweek ad section also. Can't remember the price there. :shades:
  • vinnynyvinnyny Member Posts: 764
    I'm considering buying a leftover '05 C6 but have some concerns. The car I'm looking at doesn't have the sports seats--are they worth waiting for on an '06? Second, I haven't seen any good info on changes for the '06 model--does anyone have details or a link for info on the changes? Finally, the car I may buy has zero options--are there any "must haves" that make it worth ordering (e.g. upgraded stereo or Z51)?

    Thanks
  • pcg59pcg59 Member Posts: 1
    If i were you i would hold out for the Z51 and i would get the optonal drilled rotors...thats a must have for a true performance enthusiast and for convenience you might want the bose stereo
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    About the drilled rotors, they are a must have for wannabe performance enthusiast, just MHO. Turns out at the track you only see drilled rotors when someone is new or brings out something that came that way. When you start to get into heavy braking, the drilled rotors crack easier than solid and the heat dissapation while possibly better, it is debated, isn't enough to make up for frequent replacement. Even solid rotors can crack after a year or so of easy track use and much quicker with real race driving, threshold braking into each turn. I've had cars for up to 178k miles and never replaced a rotor before in 40 years of driving, until I started tracking.
    I agree with Z51 though. Just saw a post from a Z51 coupe that did a track day in the high 90's and kept the oil temp under 250 degrees. Even with an oil cooler on my C5 which keeps the oil under 200 on the highway, I get into the upper 200's on hot days. Prior to the oil cooler I was up to 295 on a warm day and not really pushing.
    Randy
  • jmessjmess Member Posts: 677
    The current visible changes I have read about are: some interior trim (like radio knobs), some plastic interior part color/shade changes, 6 speed auto option, different steering wheel, and GM badges on the sides. There are probably a number of changes you don't see. For the manual version you don't have to put it in reverse anymore when you shut off the engine (was required to prevent battery discharge for 05).

    The Z51 is more important if you plan on track time or autocross events. You can always firm up the stock suspension/handling the usual way with springs, bars, shocks, wheels, and tires. The Z51 is not a bad value considering what you get though.

    I don't think the standard seats are missing much except some adjustable side bolsters and lumbar support. People report them to be comfortable. Even the sports seats with side bolsters don't provide enough support at high cornering loads IMHO.

    A bone stock C6 provides a lot of bang for your buck and is really a fairly well equipped car if you can do without all the electrically assisted features you get with the higher level interior. So it is really your call as what is important. I don't regret getting one with all the stuff but after having one for 6 months I know I could easily live without it. The car would still be a kick to drive and comfortable enough for long trips.

    I also agree that crossed drilled rotors are more for show and they will crack under hard use. You can always buy a set if you need them.
  • iculookiniculookin Member Posts: 3
    tell me im new to this and buying 2002 z06 but i luv vets have all my life kids grown
    and @ 42 cant wait r there any major probs with the z'ss
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    I'm just driving a coupe so what I've heard is hearsay. There was an oiling issue in 2001 but I think it was ok by '02. Other than that they seem fairly bullet proof from the ones I see on track, and that has been many. The other issues are just the standard ones that apply to all Corvettes: the column lock issue, several solutions but Chevy did a recall on that one; the rocking seat, also under a bulletin that replaced the motors under the seat if there was a complaint, not a recall; and not much else I'm aware of.
    On a Z06 I'd look closely at the panel below the doors. I tape the back of my wheel wells which limits the abuse from rocks on the track but nobody I've seen tapes all along under the door and it's clear my car has been tracked from the nicks and gouges in that area. Other than that, running on track with a bra the car looks perfectly clean. Most of these cars never see the track, btw.
    Randy
  • vinnynyvinnyny Member Posts: 764
    Thanks for the inputs. I decided to order an '06 just the way I want it. It will cost me only about $3k more but I make most of that back in depreciation, so I think it's just about a wash. I ordered the custom plate today: 06 C6. It might look funny on my 330CiC, but hopefully it won't be on there long.

    Now I just need to find a dealer who will do $2500 off MSRP on an '06 order...
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    2006 Corvette Coupe and Convertible
    • New features for 2006 include:
    • 6 speed paddle shift transmission with automatic modes
    • Smaller diameter 3-spoke steering wheel
    • XM Satellite Radio included with Bose audio systems and features hidden antenna
    • The Gray (37T) Convertible Top, introduced in 2005 MY, has been carried over for 2006 and will be available for ordering in beginning August 19, 2005.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    I have learned several things lately.

    "Life is too short not to drive a Corvette"
    "Owning a Corvette is not important, but driving one is"
    "I am a Driver, Not a Polisher"

    '03 50th AE convertible, automatic
    '04 Z06 Comm. Edition Z16
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    According to sources, the new Blue for 2006 is Asiatic Blue, don't have info on what shade it will be. Some guy online, says he got an advanced order by paying extra. LeMans Blue is too dark in my book, will be interesting to see.
    Randy
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Yes, but the stripes tone it down just right. Love the blue with STRIPES...
  • cflknrcflknr Member Posts: 1
    I need help to value a 75' vette. It doesn't have the original motor. It has a 350 with a full race cam. It get about 350 hp. It has a munsy tranny, high performance spark plug wires, and edlebrock head covers. It has side pipes and aluminum wheels. White with black interior and a black bra, T-tops. It is a runner. Needs paint and of course interior work. What do you all think?
  • r_olsenr_olsen Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 vette that the drivers side window when rolling down squeals, does anyone know the cause of this or a cure for it??
  • shaggy1shaggy1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I am in the process of changing a headlight switch on a 1979 corvette. The switch is a push/pull knob located in the dash and if the knob is turned it also dims or brightens the gauge lights.

    The switch is held in place in the dash by a threaded collar which is easy to remove.

    How does one go about removing the knob and the shaft which inserts into the switch?

    On the new switch it looks like the knob & shaft threads into the switch but I can't seem to unscrew the knob from the old switch.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Had a great day to cruise today here in KY [75 and PC], and so it was off to Bowling Green where the Museum was having its annual luncheon fete for volunteers who work their events during the year. After some shopping in the gift shop we were [about 40 Vettes strong] off on about a 40 mile cruise on the country roads to a Rod and Gun club at Barren Lake, where we had a great luncheon and some opportunities to talk with and meet new folks. I even talked the wife into coming this year, and she had fun too, despite having some serious neck issues the past few weeks. Cruise speed [thankfully!!] was a little slower than last year, and the group kept together without too much trouble. People in Bowling Green are so used to seeing cruising Corvette groups that they just sit at cross roads and wave as they let the parade proceed on through. Really a great and tolerant populace down Bowling Green way. The luncheon was superb [again] and Wendell gave a nice invocation and talk before we all dug into the grub. On the upside the wife enjoyed it, and the drive home was smooth and easy. Averaged just over 30 mpg for the day, with 200 miles of smiles. :shades:
  • nshawnshaw Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone experienced a water leak inside the car coming from behind the glove box? It's water, and not antifreeze, dripping down along the fan motor. I'm assuming it comes from spraying the car off with a hose when washing it, but I've not experienced this with other cars before. Shouldn't be leaking inside the car.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    I'm guessing it isn't from outside. Sounds more like the heater unit area and either a hose connection leak or a seam in part of the unit. The heater hoses come through the fire wall in that area if I'm not off base. I know you said water and not antifreeze but the other possibility is condensation but hard to get much volume that way, I'd think. I've read about several earlier C5's with leaks in the passenger foot well area.
    Randy
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    http://biz.yahoo.com/prnews/060124/detu012.html?.v=37

    Interesting to see how they set it up to get some payback.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/06032/648034.stm

    About half way through the article they note that the
    Fed's are expected to set standards for how stablity
    control works. I wonder if that will impact cars that
    currently have a performance version that allows some
    slide before intervening?
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I really like the 1984-1995 model Corvettes and there doesn't seem to be a lot of difference in prices for cars that old. I have a 2000 Mustang V6 that I put in shows and am contemplating selling it and getting a Corvette for the same purpose. Is there a flex problem on convertibles or should I get the removable hardtop? I'd like to be a be able to drive the car around town in relative comfort (I'd get an automatic and the base engine) so I don't need the performance version - a base model would probably ride better. I'm open to suggestion. What year would ride the best and be the most reliable. You guys are the experts.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Depends ... is mostly true. The C4, two basic body styles from 84 to 96 was the first true handling Corvette according to many. Before that they had power but required lots of work to get them to handle. Several good reviews are available and there is a Black Book that I've read about but never seen, then the current issue of Corvette magazine at news stands has a year by year run down on the C4 changes by year. Here is some of what I remember: The '84 was rough riding and got better in '85 and beyond, the early style, '84 to '89, I think is cleaned up in front in the later style '90 to '96, the engines always had tons of torque but the HP went up in the LT1 engine around '90 and the '96 engines are unique, the LT4. So much for facts, I drove a '95 with only 18k miles for a year, in 2004, and put 10k miles on it to keep miles off my 2002 Coupe. They are much harder to get in an out of than normal cars or even a C5 and although a leading edge boomer, I'm 6'3" and just under 200#s so not carrying a lot of excess. I'd be sure to test as many as you can find either on lots or from individual sellers. I found that most with over 50/60k miles were pretty well 'used' inside while the 18k mile car that a friend found was a garage queen and was almost new, premium was minor. They ride pretty hard even in the '95 and won't impress most that are not looking for a performance car, which they are, although not in terms of current offerings.
    There are lots of Corvette clubs and most folks are into showing the cars while some autocross and fewer go to race tracks for road course excitement. Drags in an auto can be fun since bracket racing is common. For me the search was as fun as finding a gem, lots of test rides even in a few C5s made it a time filler when I had some extra time. Enjoy the process!
    Randy
  • alenatasevich1alenatasevich1 Member Posts: 12
    Guys, you want to hear about quality, read this! I purchased a brand new yellow 2006 Z06 on the last of October, after waiting patiently for a few months. Note that I owned a '01 Z06 which I kept for 2 years and recently returned a '03 911 Turbo off of a lease and purchased the new Z06, thus to amazement of some of my friends went back to a Corvette after having a Porsche.

    About 2 months ago after not using the Z06 for about 10 days, my Z06 woudln't start. I called roadside & received a boost. A similar situation happened 2 weeks ago, but this time after 4 or 5 days of not being used... Obviously a problem, so I made an appointment with my local dealer to check into the problem. This was this past Friday 1/27/06. Otherwise the car seemed to operate normally.

    The dealership checked the battery and told me it was fine, but when they were about to return the car to have me go on my way, the car didn't start! They obviously kept the car and later in the afternoon informed me that it was a defective starter... It happens, right, no big deal. They would overnight the part and fix it on Monday 1/30/06... No problem...

    Monday comes and I have a very unpleasant conversation with the dealership (who by the way are very professional) and I'm informed that when they car was lifted to install the starter... they discover a CRACKED lower ENGINE BLOCK!!!! They immediately tell me that they will swap in a new engine! The car is 3 months old with 1,300 miles on it, so you see the problem! I'm demaning a new car, NOT a repair!

    Mind you, I have a number of friends who own dealerships and know numerous mechanics! I speak with all of them that same day on Monday. ALL state the same. The only way this could have happened is that the engine was overtorqued on installation, thus cracking the engine block! This car was delivered to me defective and quality control (what an oxymoron) at Chevrolet didn't catch the problem! Fine, things happen... but Chevy, you made the mistake, rectify it and give me a new car!!!

    I call Chevrolet customer support, and get a very polite, non-comittal run-around. When I ask the lady who is a manager to let me speak with someone above her, she states that she will not as per her "guidelines." Coincidentally, that dealership where my car was being fixed had a visit from a Chevy field rep. and this issue was immediately brought to his attention. He obviously okays the engine swap under warranty, but when informed that the customer wants the car replaced, refuses it.

    I immediately file a Better Business Beureau complaint, and receive a phone call from a GM's customer relations manager on Tuesday morning, who is apparently above the customer support manager with whom I spoke earlier... He is told all the facts and promises to get back to me on Tuesday 2/07/06. Today I'm told that they would not volunatarily replace the car.

    I want the car replaced & my issues with the repairs are the following:
    a.) Obviously the Z06 is a very high performance automobile, the dealer admits to me they have never did this job on this car, I'm afraid the reliability & performance of my car will be affected in either the short term or the long term. Nothing against the dealership, but they have specialists at the factory hand building & installing these engines, and now this job will not be done in the factory? P.S., I would feel the same had they told me that car would go back to the factory for the repair job as my confidence & security in this car is totally gone.
    b.) A simple carfax will reveal that this car has a new engine, thus substantially affecting the value of the automobile. Again, Chevy delivered a defective car, they need to do right by their customer and replace it.
    c.) We all know that owning a Corvette is an emotional decision, and surely the way I feel about this car has been substantially affected in a negative way. I still want to have a Z06, but this car is obviously not the one I will keep.

    Finally, I feel betrayed by Chevy's immediate reaction to my situation. The company (GM)is having a lot of problems as we all know. I feel that we, as Corvette owners, are the backbone customers and need to be heard and I think Chevy/GM is very dangerously undermining the core customer base with these type of actions. I see myself and others like myself as GM's #1 customers. Not only do I own their HALO car which states to the world, take a look and notice, the Z06 is what GM is all about, but I'm also a repeat customer having previously owned another Z06! I still have hope that Chevy/GM will do the right thing and replace the car without any further action by me... I'm still waiting and believe its going to be a long wait... But I'm prepared to take all steps necessary, including legal ones... P.S. I am an attorney.

    All contributions & opinions would be highly appreciated. Anyone else ever have similar issues? Any ideas in dealing with this situation? Needless to say, I'm extremely distressed by this situation!

    P.S. I have already posted same in the Z06 Corvette & C6 Corvette forums and have received a number of constructive responses from some of you... Thanks again...

    For a follow up on how manufacturers with integrity handle much more minor problems please see a response to my posting in the Corvette Z06 forum.

    Thanks in advance for comments, suggestions and ideas...
    Alena
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Now this sounds like a real bummer. The good/bad news is it happened early on. Also since you are an attorney, you don't have to necessarily pay for some of the legal fees to get you going down the right path. :(:)

    I frankly would want a new car also. However I am wondering out loud what is the car fax consequence/s of just swapping out the bad engine for the new engine under warranty.
  • sensaisensai Member Posts: 129
    Sorry about your problem, but a bad engine means you replace the engine, not the whole car. When BMW M3s had crankshaft failures, they replaced the engine only. When Toyota's engines sludged and failed, they replaced the engine only. I don't think you have any precedence here to demand the whole car be replaced because of the bad engine.
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