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The Viper, definitely, and a brute, too.
Really, if we are talking about a refined, comfortable and yet true and serious sports car that you can track, Corvette is the only American one we have.
Ah, don't tell that to the Viper folks that spend time on track, very fast but tough
to drive. The benefit of the C5 coupe is that while having adequate HP it is fairly
easy to drive on track. Even at places like Sears Point (Infineon) that are much
more of a challenge technically and closed in with more concrete than most road courses.
Even the C5 Z and C6 coupe are pretty tame with their extra HP. I don't even want
to discuss the C6Z which can get out of shape very easily, did just enough right
seat time to want to stay away from those who are new to the track. But at about
3400+lbs with driver, all of them are hard pressed to stay with a full race prep Miata
on race tires on a tight track. Somebody once praised lightness, spending time
in anything over about 2000lbs and you begin to define sports cars as those that
get close to that figure. The recent gen's of Corvette are lots of fun and great
touring cars. Too bad the more recent American offerings didn't show more
performance.
Randy
Sears is a very technical track indeed. I still like Laguna, even after they changed it. I got pretty good (for me, I mean) on the corkscrew, in an open wheel car. With a Corvette, I dunno, I wouldn't be so frisky on that part of the track.
the visual cue at the bottom, one of the Oaks, and you can dump it over under
some throttle and power out carrying much more speed than T9 will allow. If you
look at a data system log you can see that it is much straighter than you might
even consider from late apex on the left berm to having your right side come down
just over on the right berm and you start to turn right after car gets on full pavement
again. It took several years to get it right, but it is almost as much fun as the
carousel at Sears Point.
Turns out that at LS turn 4 seems to be the nemesis for Vettes, another one
bought the inside wall there last week and I know of several others who have
left an impact on both the inside and outside wall. Late apex solves that but
some get wound up in the moment and lifting at any point is not advised.
Randy
Also on many weekends I attended races at Laguna Seca and liked to watch cars exiting the corkscrew and into the next turn where there were many small bumps.
One thing that impressed me was how much more composed the BMW 5-series cars were on that part of the track, compared to all the Corvettes. The Corvettes skipped and skittered all over that section of track, losing traction, losing speed. The BMW M5s displayed none of that behavior - total composure - totally stuck to the road - blatantly faster than the vettes through that section of track on every lap.
And, yes, if you fuel while running it definitely will set the check engine light.
The 'run its test' is when Onstar contacts the car and uploads certain info from the 'computer'. It does this one time a month. If you do not have Onstar active it will not do this upload. Having the cap off will not set a code during the upload (unless the engine is running), it only uploads codes previously set.
ABOUT ZONES AND DEALER CODES
ggreen3
The vehicle has all original components, to include the engine, which was rebuilt with all original components still on it, and transmission. Definitely needs some more TLC to get it back to show condition, but we're working on it.
So any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also, keep in mind that any legit appraisal is based on what the car is at the time of the appraisal. You can't put future plans into the car's value. So you may want to hold off until you get the car to some decent point, or, you might do an initial appraisal for a lower value and then revise the appraisal (a simple update) later on.
If the car is currently a bit shabby, it's not going to have a lot of value, so if you have it appraised while it still has lots of needs, don't be disappointed at the low numbers that come up. Once you spiff the car up, it'll look better on paper. The 75s are not the hottest Corvette in terms of collectibility but these can be nice drivers once you get them squared away.
But I will be somewhat more 'pointed/direct'.
Just go to your insurance agent and have this car insured. If it's a 75 in need of some 'TLC', I personally would not seek out 'speciality' insurance. Maybe after a total rebuild, probably including new interior and paint, would increase the value to where it might need more coverage than your regular insurance would cover.
A 75 isn't terribly collectable. They were low powered, smogged down autos. I've owned a 72 and and 81. By 81 they were still slow (85mph speedometer), but a very well handling car - it had larger tires and sit closer to the road than the 70's.
I am of the opinion to 'keep it stock'. You might consider this when applying the TLC. Keep the colors stock. Buy parts from Corvette catalogue people that furnish reproduction parts that would be close to original. I think this makes the car worth more than if you re-painted it your 'favorite color' and had the local auto upholstery shop put new seat covers and carpet in it. Use repro covers and carpets that are exact to what the original ones were.
Otherwise, if the car runs well and seem reliable, just drive it and enjoy it in the meantime, as you correct the needed items.
True "collector" cars generally become *more* valuable as they age.
So really you are thinking about things that might not even concern you in 15+ years. You have a swell car, so drive it and enjoy it.
I would have a complete new fender put on. Getting a color match would then be your big problem. They might want to 'fade in' the door, etc to make a match. I don't know about wanting this. I would request they paint and if needed, repaint, the complete fender until they get a match for the rest of the car.
a C6 I can't see that will make much difference. The factory setting for the C5 is
up to -.70, negative camber will wear the inside of the tire. That said, I run -.90 and
don't have any issues with excess inside wear and the car handles much better
going around turns with that setting. Backing off to -.4 or -.5 will help you some
but going to zero will cause outside wear, I would think. I never bothered to look
at the other end of the range.
Randy
So on a C5 that is 8.5" front and 9.5" back on the stock model and 9.5" front and
10.5" back on the Z06. According to Tire Rack, 245/285 on the base C6 Vette and
275/325 on the Z06, same size wheel diameter so like the C5, the Z06 wheels
and tires are likely to fit the coupe or vert but the Z06 tires are not likely to fit the
base model wheels.
My car will run 11's all day long
0-60 under 4secs
Top Speed you will want to change your underwear
Best body style ever period. Why on earth did G.M. stop making this coupe with a real trunk lid???? I will never know. I hope in the near future to install a complete ZR-1 drive train
in my car unless G.M. brings the coupe body back.
My millenium yellow vette really stands out from all of them, even from the new Z-O6's I know that I have driven over a million miles in WRAP YOUR [non-permissible content removed] WITH FIBERGLASS ha ha ha
Question to you guys and gals:
1. Is there a Z-O6 Vette yearly gathering??? and if so when & where???
2. When & where is the NCCC meet this year???
3. Is CORVETTE QUARTERLY history or will it go into print again???
Hope to hear from any and all of you wether your feedback be positive or negative.
Thiis is what I love about being an american and living in the USA we have FREEDOM OF SPEECH & PRESS
of spending a bunch on more power, like you said, you have plenty now,
try going to a few driving events at your nearest road course. I spent years
on Sears Point (Infineon) and Laguna Seca, in addition to a few others, it
made a great difference in my enjoyment of a performance car. As most
see it, it's the most fun you can have. At Sears, doing over 100mph, four
times each lap and getting the most out of your ride is work and tons of fun.
After several years I got to be an insturctor and even got some lap time for
free. Check it out. Search on Corvette Forum and I'm betting you will find
a couple places with more info.
So for example, please advise a hypothetical person cross-shopping a 2012 Camaro ZL1 and Base corvette - the prices are apparently within $2k.
I understand 2012 Camaro ZL1 will include magna-ride & HUD, two great options that hypothetical person might consider.
So for example, please advise a hypothetical person cross-shopping a 2012 Camaro ZL1 and Base corvette - the prices are apparently within $2k."
Yes, but what about all-wheel-drive, 22" wheels, rear-seat DVD, and a two-speed transfer case with neutral position for dinghy towing?
The Avalanche is the vehicle to be cross-shopping!
The Vette is so much lighter it just is a better package altogether.
As for LeMans, fantastic result, really had me worried at 7 hrs to go!
I loved Le Mans! So close, tough break for the Corvette that crashed out. Now I'm hoping these guys can get back on top of the ALMS points at Lime Rock early July....
Article: http://www.americanlemans.com/primary1.php?cat=news|15850
never nice. Maybe Mosport will go better.
Thanks c2c35
Thank you all!
ChasG
Well the later C3s which were crippled by emissions controls and low HP are good buys, like from 1975--1980 or so. I'd stay away from any Vette with the "cross-fire" injection (I think that's '82 & 84--from the last C3 to the first C4). I'd plan on modifying those mid 70s C3s though, because they are kinda doggy in stock form.
Many folks don't like the looks of the C3s also.
A mid-80s C4 is a helluva good buy, and if you can stand the hard ride, a lot of bang for the buck indeed. I'd stay away from that 4-3 transmission they made, though.
90s Vettes are good buys but interior build quality isn't the best and they made so many of them, that there is virtually no investment potential for a C5 or C6 unless you pick out some very rare models.
I have enjoyed this car immensely. I have had no engine or transmission problems, but that is just one data point. The reliability of these cars has not been a strong point, but I believe that is mostly due to more minor problems. The car is very powerful (of course this is subjective), and I seldom to never need to actually spur it hard. I do anyway on occasion, but don't need to. The engine is a torque monster, so under most circumstances downshifting is optional and you use the transmission to choose your final drive ratio. It is worth noting that in high (6th) gear the engine is turning about 1300 RPM at freeway speed and the car is returning at or close to 30 MPG. The transmission itself takes firm inputs, but the gates are definite and easy to find. As far as the AC goes, it is standard, and it only takes a few minutes for it to qualify the car as a small refrigerated truck. I literally think that they used the same AC unit that they put in the Tahoe.
One final thing to keep in mind with any Corvette is that it is very low. I am blessed with good joints and balance, and I need them.
Good luck in finding your perfect ride. I love mine.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
I've always wanted a muscle car, and once had a 69 Malibu, but I don't want any type of sedan. I have always wanted the sound of a muscular American V-8. I'm also looking at other sports cars. I want to get as much bang for my buck, and I don't want to spend every waking hour fixing(as opposed to tinkering/modifying).
My favorite all time car is an XKE, having driven one in college (in 1967 or so). I always wanted a 911, and have yet to drive one, but even used, they seem to be pricey, especially for what you get. I have found that the 928, another favorite, seems to be a good buy for the buck, tho' I worry about the complexity and cost of parts. I guess I just want something out of the mainstream, and almost any true sports car is. I've also looked at some 'special interest' cars like the MGBGT, Healey 3000 and Triumph GT6. I don't like convertibles, and all I've ever heard about T-Tops is that they leak and squeak, 2 no-no's for any car I have ever owned.
Oh, and I'm pretty limber :P
An MGB-GT would be a nice choice---simple to fix, fun to drive, comfy inside and the aftermarket parts network is extensive---also well under $15K, by a long shot, and the best of the Brits, IMO.
911s are good cars but in your price range you'll be limited to somewhat older ones---from the 80s--
In terms of bang for the buck, you still can't beat a Vette, and $15K can buy you a lot of pretty decent C4s and C5s.
The only Corvette I ever drove was an 84. I liked it, but I remember it riding hard. Did the C4 improve over time? Is getting a late C4 a good 'goal'? Also, I do like the c5's. What would be a 'better' buy, a low mileage C4 or a higher miles c5(I figure miles would lower the price).
Is the C3 a 'different animal" than the C4&5?
On the C3s, as time went on they got worse and worse, unlike all the other Corvette generations which got better and better.
1) In 1989 the dreaded 4+3 transmission was replaced with a true 6-speed.
2) In 1992 the engine was bumped from 245 to 300 hp.
There were, of course, other changes over the years but those are the ones I would consider deal changers, especially the first one since I have heard nothing good about that 4+3 transmission (which involved having a separate overdrive that operated on gears 2 through 4, usually at the wrong time.)
The C5 debuted in 1997 and ran with only incremental improvements through 2004, so you may indeed find some good deals there. In any case, good hunting.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
keep mileage low driving my prior daily driver, I just couldn't face the old car
any longer. So to keep miles low I got a '95 with very low miles and drove it
for 10k over the following year, too hard to get in and out of compared to the
C5, too hard in the ride and it was stock suspension vs. the Z51 performance
suspension on my C5. Just all around not up to the C5 in any way.
As for the Vette coupe, it has a removable top, not T tops and I've never had
any issues on the '02, 118k miles or on my wife's '04, only 40k miles. Hope
you keep us posted if you find your solution.
i just got my first corvette last year at age 48....
love it. Monster car and best value for performance. Mine is a 2004 Z-06, with bored out 7.4 liter engine, new Fast intakes, twin turbos.....
mild to wild ...wahoo !!!!!!
:shades:
Join a local club. I am getting mine from a club member, which allows me to trust what I'm buying. I'm getting a 2002 Z06 six speed with 16k miles for a little more than your budget. It drives better than a brand new one.
BE VERY CAREFUL. I responded to an ad that (I'm in NJ) that seemed to be in Long Island and it turned out to be in Iowa!!! She wanted me to buy the car unseen and then I could return it if I didn't like it!! Also watch out for Texas Direct Auto.
USE THE INTERNET! its great for research. From what I have learned, you could get an 03-4 but it will have 50k miles which is reasonable. Go a bit older and you will be right in there. Converts are usually higher priced.
The most powerful engine is the LS6 in the Z, with 405 hp. That started in 01 or 02.
For $22,500 you should be able to get into 2005 year, with rather low miles. Maybe even 2006 with higher miles.
2005's are good cars, they just have a couple 'first year' of a new design problems. The manuals will kill a battery, but there is a re-flash of the computer logic that supposed to fix it. On some motors, I think the early ones, the crank bolt did not hold. I believe this might even be a recall. If you could get to the 2006 year, the automatic is a 6-speed, verse a 4 speed previous. (Nothing really wrong with the A4.) By 2006 the new design problems are fixed.
Keep saving your money for a while longer, and get to the 2008. There is a jump of 30hp, and changes to the steering 'fell' that is significant.