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Corvettes and all things about them

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Comments

  • motorheadmotorhead Member Posts: 8
    Now I`m really confused, A little more info. on this car. This corvette is a 1991 LT1 coupe hatchback with 17k miles on it and I know the man that put 16k on it.He never drove it hard and always kept the service up on it. I don`t know about you guys but knowing the history on car makes it worth more but I don`t know how much more. I`ve looked at every site for care price that I can find and $15000.00 seem just a little high but it doesn`t take into account the first hand knowledge I have about the car.
  • ultraman19ultraman19 Member Posts: 24
    A big thanks to jbjerke and bigmike5 for the info on the 3Mclear bra. I hastely looked before vacation but could not find a dealer in the central OK.area. I would be happy to visit Dallas, if I knew no rip-off.

    Appreciate any and all info----thanks

     Ultraman19
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I suspect somewhere between Edmund's rather low $9K and your seller's somewhat high $15K lies the real number for this car.

    Most important is to buy a) what you really like and b) what you are comfortable with financially. Disregarding either of those often leads to buyer's remorse.

    But for this kind of money the car should be everything you want in color, options, etc. There are lots of low mileage Corvettes out there, you shouldn't feel like you are compromising if you are paying a premium price.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    My main goal for the '95 was a daily driver that wasn't the econobox I had driven for the prior 15 years that began to feel really bad when compared to my new $45k Vette. Just something to save mileage on the new car. But for $10k to 17k you get what you pay for, it's not a great car, the side rails on the C4 are 4" higher than the C5, harder for anyone to get in and out of daily, I'm tall and wife is fairly short. Beyond that it doesn't ride as nice but hey it's 7 years older, overall I like what I got for mid teens. Hope the next owner feels the same. Key to being happy is being comfortable and options that make it something you will be happy with. BTW, I enjoy working on the Vettes to make them look nice when I drive them, can't say that about most prior rides.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Member Posts: 358
    If you jack the car, be sure to use jack pads to avoid damage to the frame. There are a number of companies that supply/sell jack pads. Following is one of them:
    http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/shop_online/prod_detail.cfm?id=1- 089
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm sometimes tempted to pick up a C4, since they are so attractively priced right now, but, like starrow, I also know the car's limitations--so I'd be a bit reluctant to pay a premium price for one until I've owned one and I'm sure I can live with what a C4 is, and is not.

    I agree, the C5 is just better in every way except (my subjectivity coming in her) the rear deck styling.

    Maybe a C4 convertible would be a better buy since with the top down you can dive into the car a lot easier, and as all we ragtop owners know,no matter what we drive, every squeak, rattle and troubling noise disappears when you put the top down!
  • ezraponezrapon Member Posts: 348
    15 K does seem high. When the latest version of the c-4 came out, the 91 was the least desireable because it did not have the LT-1 and was not near the same car as the 92 LT-1 equiped model. If having the slowest vette of the last decade or so isn't a problem for you,
    I'd offer 12 K... knowing the history of ANY car is worth something. I just can't get out of the c-4's and not look my age.
  • gearboxgearbox Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to everyone who commented on the 300-day old new C5 convertible. I guess my next round of questions will be on recommendations for wash, wax, interior care products for my new C5. I used mostly Meguiar's on my previous car.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Congratulations! As you get more into it you will sooner or later hear about Zaino, most seem to love it some seem to think it's too much work knowing what goes on next. As I understand it, and it's something I've never studied, Meguire's and most others are wax products which can build up and get dull. Zaino is a polish without a wax base. Beyond that I can't say much except when I finally did something beyond wash my '02 after 2 1/2 years I went with Zaino and found a friend of the local distributor who did the job of detailing and it looks great. I now use their quick clean up spray and dust with washes every so often. I will sure bring him back again. I've had him Zaino two other cars as well that got very little attention for several years and they look great too. But, learning the Zaino process is an art, not a science, good thing to discuss with some locals if you can track down the local club. Save the Wave!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I have been a Zaino user for 6 years after being primarily a Meguair's user. The Meguairs product line is certainly a good product line, but in my case I found that within a month or max 3 mo, you needed to do the whole drill again vs 6 mo for the Zaino. Shine wise, I would say they are comparable. Durability: (to me) ZAINO!

    I still use the Meguairs plastic and rubber treatment #41.To me the Zaino tire and rubber treatment costs a good bit more and doesn't last a good bit longer than the #41.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat- _code=specials&loc_code=index&content_code=03279288

    Just in case the new owners or anyone else had any doubts!
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    I did the above post but some bug posted it before I could finish.
    I got on a Vette board when I got my '01 and noted the Zaino "cult" as such. Glowing remarks so I bought some...am still a member of the "cult". I think the stuff is great.
    It sounded like a lot of work when reading about it and also sounded expensive.
    It's not a lot of work and you use so little, it really is not all that expensive.
    I got the Z1 (polish lock); the Z2 (show car polish); the Z6 (gloss enhancer spray) and the Z7 (car wash concentrate). Think it ran abut $40.
    Z1 and Z2 are 8 oz. bottles. Z6 and Z7 16 oz. bottles.
    They recommend VERY THIN coats!!! Like you use 1 oz. of Z1 and Z2 per application; a capful of wash soap so the stuff lasts a long time.
    When I got my first order, I received 5 typewritten pages on "ZAINO PRODUCT INFO"; 3 pages on "ZAINO APPLICATION TIPS"; 3 pages on ZAINO FAQ'S" and 2 pages on "ZAINO TIPS AND TRICKS".
    It makes one look a bit anal about their car but there is a lot of good info here. i.e., "ALWAYS use only 100% cotton towels. They must be made in the USA. Brand name Cannon or Fieldcrest." You read this stuff and close the garage door if you happen to be using something other than above for fear the Zaino patrol is lurking around the corner about to pounce on you for violating the sacred creed of Zaino users.
    OK, I'm a bit tongue in cheek here but these people are SERIOUS about results.
    It sounds like a lot of work but the Z1 goes on so easy...and very thinly. That dries but you don't wipe if off. Rather you put Z2 right over the top....VERY THINLY, let dry and wipe off. It is probably the easiest thing I have ever used to wipe off. From then on you use Z2 only for as many coats as you want. Guess you do the Z1/Z2 again whenever you feel like it.
    Enough already...I am a fan of the stuff. Cannot be bought at stores. Either direct from Zaino or a distributor.
    Fire away with any questions.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Let's try to keep the "Zaino Talk" confined to the Church of Zaino over in the Maintenance Board, okay? I'd like to keep this forum on track with the car itself.

    Thanks!

    Shifty the Host
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    The following is from an article USA Today, which has much more info on other GM models, Ford and DC. FWIW:

    GM also is offering no-interest financing on many 2004 models for loans as long as five years.

    "I sold 52 Corvettes last month," said Scott Montgomery, sales manager at Les Stanford Chevrolet in Dearborn. "Zero for 60 should clean out the last of them."

    GM customers with leases that don't expire until the end of March 2005 can also terminate the contract early without penalty if they buy or lease a new GM model.

    GM is excluding some models, suchs the the Cadillac CTS-V and XLR, Chevrolet SSR and Hummer H2.
  • motorheadmotorhead Member Posts: 8
    Well guys I guess after all of the info I have gotten about this 1991 corvette from all of you and all of the research I done I am going to buy this car and no matter how slow it is or that it doesn`t have an LT1. It is still a very nice car and I know I will enjoy driving it. Thanks for all of the help.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Take a look around locally for a local club and you will probably find some others who have similar cars and can lend some support when something new comes up. Keep us posted and remember to 'Save the Wave'!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Picked up the wife at the airport yesterday and took the new Vette to do it. Walked her around the parking garage for a few minutes pretending not to be able to find my car. Then hit the opener and the lights flashed on the Vette. She: "You didn't...?" Me: "I did." Well, the fact I am able to write this today indicates she didn't try or didn't succeed in killing me. lol Anyway, her only comment riding home was that the seats were comfortable, albeit, she would prefer them to be heated too. And the cabin noise was too loud for her. She: "Why a Bose system if you can't hear it?" She made a similar comment about my 300M when I went to duals on that vehicle. It was fine with me, but... This brings me to my question. Aside from the EMT noise which I can't do anything about, will the exhaust set-up on the 04 Vette allow the imposition of another small muffler/resonator aft of the cats to lower the cabin noise level, without impacting performance? I haven't gotten down under trying to see the layout, due to excessive gut, bad back and low carriage. I added a small tubular Magnaflow 10416 to my 300M's exhaust, and it did a great job, so I wonder if I could do the same on the Vette? Any thoughts? The wife also wasn't too enamored with the striping I had done. I had the shop do the Commemorative pattern from the Z06 in Copper with a Metalic 1" Dark Blue outside stripe on the Medium Spiral Gray. Those who have seen it think it looks super, but everyone has a right to their opinion. Anyway, if anyone has info on the muffler issue, I'd appreciate advice. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think people attribute far more power benefits to cat-back exhaust modifications than an accurate dyno would justify, because.....they often make other changes at the same time and so don't get the real picture.

    The car might sounds slower but I doubt if you'd be able to register the difference on the clock in real world driving with a somewhat more restrictive can in the back end of the system. What could you lose? 5 HP? You've got a large bank account of ponies under there!

    If nothing is available that will fit, you might consider putting down some Dyna-Mat under the carpeting, trunk, etc. Of course, you'd have to do a really neat job of it on a new car like that.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Yeah, I am not too worried about a power drain, since it is hard to find any place where I live that you can really let it run in the high numbers [above maybe 80], and it is really quick to merge and lose people at lights, so I can't see that diminishing much, if at all. It didn't hurt adding the additional muff. on my 300M at all. Unless someone has another suggestion or warning about messing with it, I will check with the exhaust guy and see what he thinks. I can do that tomorrow, maybe have him throw it up on the lift and take a look. Thought I saw a schematic of the exhaust somewhere but can't seem to locate it now.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Do you have stock exhaust? If so I can't see anyone complaining about the sound, is it auto? My wife just got a Corsa Indy with no X-pipe on a coupe and many said it would be way too loud but we did 1400 miles and no sound issues. Just put it in 6th and cruise at 1400 to 1800 rpm. Now the EMTs are another issue, stay off new concrete, sometimes tough to do. To me the car is quiet as a church mouse with stock exhaust, especially if you keep it in lower rpms, now the Z06 is a different story, especially at WOT.
       As to shifty's thought about after market exhaust, article in Vette Magazine last year about the Magnaflow system I put on my coupe, it is quieter than stock at idle thorough to before WOT, at WOT it is louder and deeper than stock. Mag ran before and after dyno and said +16hp, if I remember correctly, then add 2hp more for x-pipe.
  • motorheadmotorhead Member Posts: 8
    Got my new corvette and it`s sure is nice to drive. One question, the car has been setting so much in a car shed that when you turn the air condition on it smells like mold, what can I do?
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Any car that gets turned off with the A/C running will have moisture in the system that will then turn to mold smell when you reenter car. I have heard that there are sprays to try and clean it out but have never seen one personally. I've gone to turning off the A/C a mile or several before getting to destination to dry the system and then notice a big difference in not getting blast of mold smell on return to the car. YMMV
  • avolvofanavolvofan Member Posts: 358
    If noise is the issue, I would probably try noise reduction material before playing games with additional mufflers. You might try this site for noise reduction material: http://www.dynamat.com/

    Hope this helps.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Member Posts: 764
    Guys:

    I've been lurking here for a while just itching to pull the trigger on a new Vette. However, I came across a 2003 Z06 that I might pick up this weekend. It's red over black with only 1000 miles. The options inlcude the HUD package and self-dimming mirrors

    How does $38k sound? Edmunds pricing puts it much higher, but I'm not sure about how valid their numbers are during this transition phase. I'll be deciding today or tomorrow, so if you have thoughts on it please respond soon.

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Price sounds pretty good--no "steal" but fair enough. You see 'em advertised for $39-43K asking prices out here in California, so if you were somewhere else in the midwest say I could see it being cheaper. The miles are great, though--why only 1,000 miles?

    You should run a CARFAX check on the car, even though that won't tell you all you need to know. It won't pick up serious damage in all cases but it should pick up mileage.
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    38k may be a bit steep depending on location. I know California is steep. Midwest/east much more reasonable. With the huge discounts and rebates now available on a new '04, I suspect a new '04 could be had for the low 40's.
    As for HUD, that was standard. The electro mirrors was an option. Does it have Memory package??? An inexpensive option but a must as far as I am concerned.
    Just my thoughts.
  • hotwheelsvettehotwheelsvette Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I am new in the corvette forum, I am having a problem with my 97 vette. I have had this vehicle for almost 2 years and haven't had any problems like this before.

    Also, I am not very familiar with the corvettes in general; never owned one before.

    After a short fast acceleration (pulling away from an 04 GTO) I believe I was going in to 3rd or 4th gear when the clutch felt like it was all gone ( only 50k miles total ) and it would not let me go in any gear. Anyways, trying to get back to the house the clutch pedal will stay "IN" and would not return. So after she cooled off I took the exhaust and cover plate so I could replace the clutch fluid and bleed the system.

    With that accomplished I thought I had it fixed, but I wasn't! The bleeding went normal and it seemed to be fine, pedal would return and appeared normal again, after a short test drive, the clutch buried in the floor and it wasn't working properly.

    If anyone know about this problem and had something similar happen please point me the right direction please......

    I am considering replacing the Actuator Cylinder,

    In a worse case scenario, I have all the shop manuals And would like to know if replacing the clutch is something that can be done at home without the use of any "special" tools......Or is the the sign of a clutch needing replacement?

    Is there a "slave cylinder" like regular cars?
    My manual's picture is not very clear to me.....It shows the bleeding nut and the pressure line.

    What other parts could go wrong?

    Thanks for any help Guys!!!!
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Sounds like a fully optioned Z06 which should make it $6k+ over a coupe, + options. That's somewhere north of $51k and probably closer to $55k MSRP when sold. Looking around I found the following '02 Z06:
    "It has HUD (standard), memory, electro. mirrors & moldings. The owner added several chrome accesories including wheels, taillight covers, exhaust plate & added sill protectors. The windows have been tinted. It does have only 600 miles but we ran it through service anyways & its in perfect conidtion. Forum Price is $36,900."

       But I also found others with more miles listed up into the low $40's, so $38k sounds like priced to move if it checks out with no leaks, other obvious faults, etc. Then again you have to like Black, and I'm partial to Blue and the wife's Yellow is growing on me, ;). Go for it!
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    I've read in other forums that the C5 clutch will stay on the floor and the usual cause in the slave unit from what I've read. No wrench here, it could be fatal if I tried to fix anything myself. I'd do some searchs on the net and you might come up with better info, good luck.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Member Posts: 764
    Thanks guys. I'm still not sure what I'll do. The wife put her $.02 in--she hates the Vette and wants me to get an M3. So, I guess there's no need for the memory package because I'll be the only one driving it!

    I'm in AZ, so these cars are pretty hot. I may just wait for the 05 roadster.
  • motorheadmotorhead Member Posts: 8
    Hey guys, I got to drive my new 1991 corvette yesterday and boy is it fun to drive. One problem, it has an auto air condition and the fan blows good except when you accerlate any amount at all. When you are crusing along about 55 it blows air good but when you accerlate just alittle the fan slow down and nearly quits.HELP PLEASE.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Member Posts: 358
    It is either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder (or both) that is failing. My vote would be for the slave cylinder. If you can observe the actuator rod operation on the slave cylinder when the clutch pedal is being depressed, and fluid is being expelled, then the slave cylinder has failed and needs replacing. If no fluid leakage at the slave cylinder, then do the same check on the clutch master cylinder.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Member Posts: 358
    Electrical problems are soooo much fun (more like a scavenger hunt)! Start with a voltage measurement at the blower motor. Most likely, you are going to see a voltage drop (which is what you have described in your original post). Duh, nothing earth-shattering here.... Now for the scavenger hunt part: You need to find the source of the voltage drop. After confirming a voltage drop, the first place I would start is at the alternator. If voltage drop occurs at the alternator, then you are looking at a new (or rebuilt) alternator. If the alternator checks out, then start working back from the a/c blower motor. You will need a factory wiring diagram to do the diagnostic trace.

    If you had a C5, you might be able to avoid a significant amount of misery by doing a diagnostic scan with a TECH2 scanner; unfortunately, that is not the circumstance, so old-fashioned trouble-shooting is the rule.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think it is the clutch master from the symptoms you describe and not the slave. Also, these systems aren't all that easy to bleed properly. I would suggest, if it isn't too much of a hassle, removing the hydraulic lines from the clutch master and inserting plugs into the master. Then bleed the master using the plugs as bleeder nipples. Then re-connect the lines and bleed the slave.

    Given the year of the car and if you have never flushed the clutch fluid, you might have a corroded bore in either master or slave, which is hanging the clutch pedal. Also the early C5s got off to a shakey start, and mechanical glitches here and there weren't uncommon.

    I think your clutch is okay.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Member Posts: 764
    Guys:

    Thanks again for the advice. I decided to hold off on the 2003 Z06. I'm looking for a new one or an 05 Vette instead (also considering 05 GTO--I know, no comparison but I could use the 2 extra seats).
  • motorheadmotorhead Member Posts: 8
    Hey guys all that was wrong with my car was a vacuum line was off. Thanks for all so the help.
  • hotwheelsvettehotwheelsvette Member Posts: 2
    I will check those things, It could be the master cylinder because the pedal would stick and if I try to pull it it would return back....like if it was "stuck"....i check the spring and it is good....so i will try that and maybe bleed it again....

    Thanks for all the input!!!!!
  • motorheadmotorhead Member Posts: 8
    When I bought this 1991 vette the guy I bought it from had changed the radio because the bose speakers had gone bad. I have a bose radio that is very good condition, how can I sell it and what do you think it is worth?
  • smokensparkssmokensparks Member Posts: 4
    I've been looking for a 2000-2002 convertible. I prefer the 6 speed but I find the majority of those I come across are automatic transmissions. My questions are 1)are there any problems with ATs in this model year range 2)are there any reoccurring problems with any of these model years, and 3)What is a reasonable price range?

    I appreciate any help/comments. Thanks.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    I've got a C5 2002 coupe for which the car cost $45k back in 2001. Two price increases later, then add $2000 more in options than mine had and my wife's '04 coupe came out at $39k. Add $7k for a vert. Problem is that until you know how much in options it's hard to know what the bottom and top of that range of current value is. Maximum options, remembering that some exclude others, I think went about $7k or maybe $8k, the wife's had $6k in options.
       So, where I and many other '02 owners would like to think that our cars were supposed to decline no more than about $5k (or less) per year and so be worth $30k to $35k right now, ones with no options are probably worth less than that. Fully optioned coupes might be in the middle of that range, and that's what many are asking. Key to buying used is to learn the options and their value and know what you are looking at. Go for low miles and since about 30% of coupes and verts were 6 speed keep looking for one. Sports Car with auto is an oxymoron IMO. (That is unless you drive the I405 for 2 hours each way daily)

       Expand your search to the web, there are lots of gems out there and people don't do much to market in today's world, be patient.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Today is a mixed message day. Big storm on Tuesday nite, and the 300M was in the driveway since the new Vette is now in her garage space. Car cover not received yet for the 300. Result: major hail damage to the 300, so I am really unhappy about that, but, no damage to the new Vette makes it a mixed feelings day. About $1,100.00 damage on the 300 if PDR can do the repair job, if not maybe more. Bummer.
  • starrow68starrow68 Member Posts: 1,142
    Sorry about the damage, once had a new car sand storm damage about 3 weeks into ownership, ugly feelings! Keeping the new one safe was good. We on the left coast tend to forget just how good we have it the vast majority of the time, year round.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Yeah, all you guys have to worry about is the San Andreas fault and beach front property suddenly appearing in Arizona. lol I was in Monterey and SF for 2 different quakes, and it is a scarry feeling in one of them. Guess no area is a perfect place to live--except maybe San Diego, and they have marginal pro-sports team as their curse.
  • ezraponezrapon Member Posts: 348
    I live in st. louis. we are known for our rapid and drastic weather changes (and excellent sports teams). In particular hail is always a concern. I don't plan on an experiment, but has anyone seen how a vette stands up to a nasty hail storm? Perhaps some one has been to a chevy dealer and seen a vette next to a Tahoe or other rig. My local dealer usually has about 30 vettes in stock, so moving them under cover is not an option. Seems like the fiberglass would bend but not break. Windshields are another story.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    The guy at the body shop said to me when I told him the 300M was on the driveway because the Vette was in the garage: "Good thing the Vette was not in the driveway." Then he rolled his eyes and I could swear I saw dollar signs rolling up his eyeballs like on a slot machine. I took that to mean it would have been an expensive event and not a cheap fix. He did not elaborate.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm...I'm not sure how fiberglass reacts to hailstones...obviously it won't dent like metal...any speculations on that?
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    Gonzo size hail will splinter/crack fiberglass and will put holes even in laminated glass. I don't think nominal size stones which will dent metal will do much of anything to fiberglass although I think Vettes are now made of some composite material. That material won't "dent" either but I suspect a nominal hail would split the paint.
  • stevettestevette Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2001 convertible. I like to do minor maintenance (brakes, oil changes etc..)myself. My question is with the undercarriage so low to the ground, what/ how do the other do it yourselfers access underneath the car? What type of floor jack and/or ramps do you use?
    Thanks
  • gbjerkegbjerke Member Posts: 158
    My floor jack fits but just barely. Others who have lowered their Vettes drive up on a 2X4 or 2X6 or 2X anything to get the jack underneath.
    My jack is a Penske. Bought at K-Mart on special for like $30+(???) including jack stands. I just use it for changing brake pads so cannot confirm whether it has enough lift to get underneath to change oil.
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