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Dodge Ram Care and Maintenance

13

Comments

  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Glad I could help
  • dieseltruckdieseltruck Member Posts: 1
    I have spent 3 hours looking for a zirk fitting to lubricate the front drive shaft,the tage does not say greese the universal fittings it says to lubricate the drive shaft i am confused still dont no whhat to do
  • dkitchenhoffdkitchenhoff Member Posts: 1
    chris
    Iam also trying to remove a ring gear and can you give me any idea of what king of tool you made to remove those
    adjusters any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    dkitchenhoff
  • metfanjimmetfanjim Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98' dodge Ran 1500 2wd 5.2L. Truck has been running fine and suddenly yesterday it severely began running as though it was almost out of gas. If I let it sit for a while it will run better for a short period. I tested and no codes showed up. I have been told fuel pump, fuel filter( where are they--- in fuel tank?) and catalytic convertor because there seems to be a lack of exhaust. I am desperate please help.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    This problem is symptomatic of either the fuel pump on the way out or the cat converter or possibly even both at the same time.
    I would put my money on the fuel pump heating up and then not pumping properly until it cools down somewhat. If you make a habit of driving much with fuel levels around 1/4 tank or so you have contributed to early demise as the pump relys on being submerged in fuel for cooling.
    And yes, the pump is in the tank...... :cry:
  • spin61spin61 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002(new style) 1500 quad cab (4.9L). I have noticed that there is a squeek when I am driving. It is not present when idling. I put it in neutral and reved the engine with no squeek. The pitch is constant and is not heard with the windows up. When I get under the truck, where should I look first for the cause? The belt is brand new, it squeeks with the a/c on or off. Any advise would be appreciated.
  • sandler01sandler01 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1999 1500 QC 4x4 5.9 V8 and seem to be getting good mileage. It's only got 40,000 miles on it and I bought it from the original owner who parked it about 4 months of the year and would start it 3 times a month and run a/c to keep seals from drying out. I'm in Canada so our gallon is measured larger, but I can tell you I get about 380 miles on a full tank. Like other posts here, I'd like to work at squeezing more for less... I'm told that adding Dextron (transmission fluid) to the gas will help clean the injectors and burns clean to clear out excess gunk in the system. Is this recommended for an unleaded fuel engine or is this a bunch of bunk ? (This would be in addition to changing the spark plugs etc).

    Thanks, Aj
  • hotrod87hotrod87 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Ron29,
    Well I'm one of those "shade-tree mechanics" (self-taught) who likes a challenge. So, I bought an off-the-shelf manual for my 2003 Dodge Ram Hemi...Oh, sounds simple and they show one photo. Here's what I did, first remove the air intake and place a rag in the throttle intake (remove to remove later), get several ratched extenions, in some cases I had to use a combination of two short ones or a stubby one, only used a long extention where room permitted. When going for the hardest plug to get to, actually it's the coil pack on the driver's side rear of the engine, I found it helpful to lay down a piece of cardboard over the rop of the radiator and air-conditoner compressor and lay over the engine and use a short or stubby extention to remove the coil pack, then I had to drop the spark plug socket down and then attach the extension to it... it's some juggling but it's doable. I'm 5'10", 230 lbs. (beer gut), but I was able to do it along with change the serpentine drive belt in about 4 hours... so it's your time and muscle or pay the dealer. I've also put an S&B air intake kit on my Hemi, along with Gibson dual exhaust cat-back system and also have it programmed with a Hypertech programmer. Oh, one last thing I used Champion double-plantinum plugs, I don't want to do this again in 30,000... maybe 50,000.

    Hope this helps!
  • new2dodgenew2dodge Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering how to change an air filter on the 2001 1500 Ram. It has 3 clips on the front side but also a sticker that says to remove the filter assembly from the carb first. That sounds a little drastic to me. Any help is appreciated.
  • poledradogpoledradog Member Posts: 4
    Where is it? So far I've just had it serviced at the dealer, but decided I'd had enough of that. I always did my own car maintenance when I was in high school and in college.

    Anyway, I've looked, but can't seem to find the filter. Can someone tell me where it is? I know it's there somewhere...
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Under the front of the engine, on the drivers side.
  • poledradogpoledradog Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, I found it! Now, it would have been nice if the dealer hadn't tightened it with a torque wrench (at least that's what it felt like!)
  • carnut17carnut17 Member Posts: 46
    I need to replace the fuel filt. on my truck but it looks really hard to get to. I also like to fill the new filt. with fuel so i don't loose my fuel syst. prime. My 92 dodge was easy but on this 95 it looks like you have to tilt the filter in different directions in order to get it out, making it impossible to to prefill with fuel. Can anyone give me any ideas and if i don't fill the new filt. with fuel will i loose my fuel syst. prime? Thanks Carnut17
  • zeniffzeniff Member Posts: 7
    I think it's kind of funny that this forum is called 'care and meintenance' -- how about some 'care and maintenance' for the effects Dodge Rams have on the environment? Check out the following sites for Daimler/Chrysler's own words of what they think!:

    Maybe some of you should consider Daimler Chrysler's stance on the environment before you up and buy their vehicles. Buying from a company that could care less about the environment doesn't give them any motive to change their ways. Check out these websites for more info on Daimler Chrysler's thoughts about global warming:

    http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/News/articleId=119166

    http://www.inform.kz/showarticle.php?lang=eng&id=147616

    http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/6247371.stm?ls
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i am looking into purchasing a 2000 1500 SLT laramie, with every option. the truck is in perfect condition, inside and out, never been smoked in, wrecked, no problems in service history, and is up to date. the owner added no mods to it. it has the 5.9, with 49000 miles. the owner is asking 13000 for it. is it worth it?
    any opinions/ideas? are there any common problems i should know about? please post back soon as this truck might not last all that long.
    thanks!
    ~tom
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    its also a 4x4, if that makes any difference.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Mr. zeniff appears to be on a hate Chrysler campaign.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    "Mr. zeniff appears to be on a hate Chrysler campaign."

    Seems to be a fairly common ailment.....but I'll just keep smiling and driving my Dakota!! :)
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    that truck got sold the same day i went to look at it. this time, ive found a 1995 dodge ram SLT Laramie 3/4T 4x4 with only 33000 miles. it has been garaged every day of its life and is in showroom condition. has all the bells and whistles with the V-10. the owner is asking 9000 for it. should i do it? its sooo nice, but im worried about the low mileage, beign that the truck obviousley must have sat for SOME time.
    ~tom
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    Well, even the '95 Rams are good trucks - but a truck with that big Viper-derived engine sucks fuel like a jet plane. If you can afford the gas - remembering that the engine is at its most fun when it's burning the most gasoline - go for it. If you're looking to haul things or even just have a full size with really good mileage, look for a Cummins.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    The gas is not a factor for me. the bad thing is, when i finally talked to the guy, he sold the truck a few hours before i called. damn.
    ~tom
  • guy7guy7 Member Posts: 9
    I recencently purchased an 06 CTD. I am not driving it very often as the old CTD is still doing duty. It maysit for a couple of weeks at a time. Is there anything that I should do to make sure fluids don't go bad,especially fuel. Also are the rest of the CTD owners out there that live in cold climates adding fuel conditioner. Does this affect warranty status? My older truck is used much more often and I don't worry as much about fluids going bad.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Only thing I ever add to my fuel is anti-gel when it's very cold. Otherwise, just use a reputable fuel source (preferably a truck stop with high usage and turnover) to make sure your fuel is clean.

    The rest of the fluids should be fine after a week or two.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    I agree with KC about the anti-gel and fueling at a high-turnover station, and you might want to drain the water trap every now and again too.
  • michaelfishermichaelfisher Member Posts: 3
    I have the Haynes manual for my '96 diesel. Reading the manual in preparation for changing the tranny oil and filter, I see the specs for the band adjustment is in inch-pounds; I've never heard of that before. There is a metric conversion or comparison, but I am totally lost at making any conversion and have absolutely no idea of how inch-pounds would relate to Ft-pounds. I have a torq wrench that goes from 20# on up. Where would I look to find out what 72 in-pounds would be? Or is there a smaller scale torq wrench I should be investing in? Thanks, Michael
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    As long as I've been working on motor vehicles or in the business, transmission bands and other fasteners have specified their tightening in inch-pounds.

    You will need a torque wrench calibrated in inch pounds.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • manlawn04manlawn04 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 96 cummins and I don't think any syn. oil has ever been used, will putting it in at this stage harm engine??? 243000 miles on the truck. Email at cah1646@yahoo.com with reply so I can get the results faster.
    Thanks
  • manlawn04manlawn04 Member Posts: 4
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Shouldn't be a problem. If you're concerned, start with a synthetic blend and wean the engine to full syn over a few oil changes. Be sure to keep an eye on all the seals.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • rxpx40rxpx40 Member Posts: 10
    Sorry to be gone so long. I did fix the problem with my Dodge Ram Van. When I removed the ring gear assembly and finally the pinion gear, I could see the damaged bearing races. Exactly half the inside circumference of the bearing races looked like they were not hardened properly and were very rough.
    I have since sold that van and now own a '06 MegaCab 2500 4X4 with the Cummins Turbo Diesel. Gawd, I love this truck.

    Chris
  • moparornocar08moparornocar08 Member Posts: 6
    We just bought a fully loaded 1999 Ram Quad Cab 4X4 with the 5.9 V8 and was owned by a state trooper. It's immaculate, never been off-roaded, just an excellent truck. However, I have been keeping an eye on the oil and I've noticed that it seems to be using some oil after only driving it about 500 miles. It runs great, doesn't smoke, doesn't have a leak (that I can find), and barring the occasion romping, hasn't been driven hard. My question is, is this just be normal oil consumption or is there something else I need to know about these motors?
  • fueledupfueledup Member Posts: 64
    you've just been smoked by a smokey
  • rplastersrplasters Member Posts: 1
    Son (16 years old) has a 97 dodge ram pickup 1500 and wanted to make his truck sound louder so he cut the tailpipe off right above the muffler. When we saw the tailpipe in the driveway we were concerned about this so we wantd to get it put back on, we were told that he could get the catalytic converter cut off and put a straight pipe system on and put back the existing muffler/pipe. We do not have an emission law in the state of Alabama, can this be done without welding and just using clamps, he is now trying to save money after his mistake of cutting off the pipe. He has power lost due to a clogged up catalytic converter. Please help!!!!
  • dakota6479dakota6479 Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone know, is it possible to change the clutch bearing in the a/c compressor and not put in a new compressor. You can get the bearing from most auto parts stores, but yet most repair shops say that they can only change the entire compressor. Let's see a part for $40-60 bucks or a compressor for $400 plus labor brings the total to $1000. Why would you be able to get a part if no one wants to put it in? :confuse:
  • dakota6479dakota6479 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1998 Ram 1500 that I changed the exhaust on. I removed the cat and put 24" glasspacks on it with 3 1/2" tips. I also changed it to a true dual exhaust system. Some may think it's too loud, but the only time you really hear it is if you start rodding on it. Your best bet would be to weld the pieces together because depending on how and where he drives it, the clamps may not hold properly. Hope this helps
    Redneck girl from ND :)
  • carlsonnickcarlsonnick Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96' Dodge ram 1500 extended cab 5.9 with automatic transmission. Put it in 4 wheel high today, truck was hopping horribly, so I stopped. Truck proceeded to make a few big clunks. I disengaged the 4 wheel drive and I made it onto somewhat clear pavement and it drove fine. However, when I put it into 4 wheel drive high or low, the 4 wheel drive light comes on, but the front tires to do move, the. The truck just sits there and clunks something bad. What am I looking at hear? Possible 4 wheel drive linkage? Somewhat mechanically inclined, and would love to fix this problem within the next few days because more snow is on the way (I live in Wisconsin). Please, somebody help.
  • barryetsbarryets Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 2500 with the 6.7 deisel. My owners manual says to change the oil at 7,500 or 15,000 depending on driving conditions. I plan to change it every 5,000 - 7,500 miles but my oil change light on the upper console goes off well before that. Is this light just based on milage or is there some type of sensor that determines the need to be changed? I've only had the truck for 6 months and have 10,000 miles and the light went off around 4,000 the first time and long before I reached 10,000 the second. Any suggestions? you can email me directly at barryets@cox.net
  • firstdodge2firstdodge2 Member Posts: 1
    Question: I just bought an '07 Dodge with 5.9L Cummins. It only has @3500 miles right now, but do I need to be using a fuel additive due to the low sulfur fuel?

    Also, my truck is a dually. I have a problem with rock chips on the dually fenders. Do the front mud flaps work good to prevent this or should I install full length running boards? Any suggestions?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    1 - No... my '05 3500 runs just fine on ULSD, same engine.

    2 - I have front rubber mud flaps, but they don't do a whole lot. I had full length boards on my 1996 3500 dually, and while they helped a little, a rock will find the truck no matter what you do.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • caracheecarachee Member Posts: 2
    Hello, my maintenance book says that i should replace my spark plugs at 30,000 miles. Does that seem like low miles to replace plugs on todays vehicles
  • caracheecarachee Member Posts: 2
    Is it critical to change axle fluid every 15,000 miles as it says in the maintenance schedule? at $147.00 a pop it gets expensive. Is this a job for a novice to tackle?
  • ramrod2ramrod2 Member Posts: 6
    I waited until there was 6000 miles before changing over to Mobil 1. Using the OWNERS MANUAL as a guide and change every 6000 miles along with tire rotation. Other than Nitrogen filled tires, and a Tonneau cover, I haven't made any other alterations and get over 15 mph in city and 21.9 mpg on interstate while maintaining 65 mph when I can which is most of the time since most of my highway driving is from Sanford, Fl to Ringgold, Ga
  • ramrod2ramrod2 Member Posts: 6
    Here, again, check the OWNERS MANUAL! I have worked at a dealership that uses their own menu, and while it seems to make sense, it is EXTREMELY costly, and (I think) unnecessary)
  • lukester1lukester1 Member Posts: 3
    Please provide the step-by-step for changing the plugs on the 06 Hemi. I found them for the 05 (had great pic's too) but the 06 is different. I'm working on the 30k tune up.

    Thank you,

    Luke
  • stanoskistanoski Member Posts: 76
    Why replace them at 30k in the first place? Isn't that a bit premature? Most cars/trucks can go 100k before needing them replaced. I just bought an 07 Ram 5.7 hemi and only have about 5k on it now so no new plugs for me for a while. From past experience, you will most probably break or screw something up in the process of changing them so I personallly hold off as long as long as its still running well. My last 3 vehicles went well over 100K without plug changes and never had a problem as long as the rest of the vehicle is properly maintained. p.s. Not being a smart-alec, just my personal experience. Maybe Ive been lucky, not sure??
    Ski in TX
  • lukester1lukester1 Member Posts: 3
    No problem Tx. The Schedule B calls for the 16 plugs to be replaced at 30K. It runs great but I just want to keep to the schedule. I'm still looking for help or a link to help?

    Thanks, Luke
  • nackermannackerman Member Posts: 1
    Luke, Where did you find the plug change for the 2005, I need them, they sound good. Thanks, Nack..
  • tondeb0202tondeb0202 Member Posts: 1
    YES i HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH FRAM FILTERS. THE CURE HAS BEEN ONLY TIGHTEN THE FILTER BY HAND. (ONLY)
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    Thanks, Tondeb - I must say, that's the biggest gap between question and answer I've ever seen on any internet forum, anyplace!
  • rxpx40rxpx40 Member Posts: 10
    Great day in the morning! $147 to change the axle fluid? I replaced the front *and* rear differential fluid on my '06 MegaCab 2500 4x4 with Amsoil 75W-90 and the total wasn't $147! Yes, you can do this yourself. I took the diff covers off and wirebrushed it since the factory paint cooked off within 3000 miles. I painted the cover with high temp engine paint. Hauling my 7500lb trailer has not even faded the paint. Oh yes- the best part: When I changed to Amsoil, my mileage increased from 21-23 mpg.

    Chris
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