Dodge Ram Care and Maintenance

stevendlong · June 2005

p/n 52037648 is not currently available from dealers ... nor anyone else online (that I can find). This part covers several years of production. I find it odd that the part is not available (on back order). Any thoughts?

Steven

18466 · June 2005

Just purchased a new 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 with a HEMI and was looking at the maintenance required and am puzzled at the sticker under the hood that states to lubricate the front drive shaft universals at every oil change but upon inspection of the universals there are no zerk fittings on them and to make matters even more confusing it says see owners manual on the sticker and in the owners manual it says "cross type universal joints do not require lubrication."

Just wondering if anybody else ran across this and what maintenance if any they do on these front drive shaft universal joints.

bob1186 · July 2005

I have same truck. I use the Fram PH16. It needs to be more than hand tight so use a filter wrench to tighten 1/4 turn behond hand tight. Moisten rubber o-ring with oil before putting filter on. Good luck.

dustyk · July 2005

There's no problem with the design of the PH-16. Since I heard they were so bad I had to start using them. I have the 4.7 in a Dakota, but I believe that the PH-16 application is good for all of the "LA" engines series (318, 360, 3.9). I suspect like what's been suggested that they're not being tightened enough. I usually go a full 1/2 turn or more after initial engagement. And yes, a little lube is needed on the oil ring.

Regards,
Dusty

jojo5150 · July 2005

I just bought a 2002 Ram 1500SLT Quad Cab with the 4.7. The first thing I was wondering is about fuel mileage. What is a real world mileage for a truck like that and what are some tips to get the best mileage possible. I have always owned Hondas, so I am a little ignorant. Also, I was wondering if it would be realistic for me to change the transmission, transfer case, and differential fluids and if I do any recommendations for what fluids to use. The truck only has 10500 miles on it, and I was thinking about putting synthetic oil in. Is it worth it?

dustyk · July 2005

I have the same engine in a '03 Dakota Club Cab, automatic transmission with 45,000 miles. I just returned from a 250 mile trip, mostly interstate driving, and got 20.71 MPG with about 800 pounds loaded on to the truck. I typically get 16-17 in my weekly driving, which includes very little highway, most rural and around town. I have found the 4.7 to be a beautiful engine. They do take a while to break-in completely. Some have stated that it took 30,000 miles or more. Be patient.

I use Mobil 1 0W-30 full synthetic motor oil, but in all honesty I think synthetics are hard to justify. Their biggest positive feature is viscosity stabilization, ie: high flow rates at a wider temperature range and longer duration. Unfortunately, synthetic oils collect dirt and moisture just like non-synthetics and should be changed because of it. I would not advocate 30, 20, or even 10,000 mile change intervals using synthetic motor oil. However, in the practical duration of the manufacturers recommended change interval, I would say that a synthetic is more reliable through 6-7500 miles.

From a cost perspective alone synthetics are probably not justified.

Best regards,
Dusty

lotsofmiles · July 2005

I have a 4.7 Ram as well. I drive about 182 miles a day and the 3K oil change rule started adding up quickly. There were times that my oil was still good according to the dealer. My local Dodge dealer recommended that I change my oil every 7500 miles. This worked out great, a change about every 6-8 weeks. I talked with several dealers, auto mechanics, and other owners about switching to synthetic oils for the 4.7 Ram and 90% said it was not worth it, even for high mileage drivers. The engine runs great with non-synths. I am at 110K and the engine runs awesome. I am averaging about 18-city/24Highway.

dustyk · July 2005

What have you used for spark plugs?

Best regards,
Dusty

roper2 · July 2005

What is the best replacement air filter for this engine, a k/n or a standard paperfilter. Do the performance filters help that much on a stock truck? thanks

gwp46 · July 2005

Hello Everybody,
I have a question, can anybody tell me where i can get info on changing spark plugs on my 2003 1500 quad cab with the 4.7 engine. I have 63k miles on it and was wondering if changing the plugs might help the terrible fuel mileage (14 mpg).Thanks in advance.
gwp46

hfeller · August 2005

I recently had the transmission fluid changed on my dodge and now the overdrive function is acting up. I can start the vehicle in overdrive, but after a short drive, the overdrive automatically switches off and will not respond when I hit the overdrive button to re-activate. The transmission temp light also activated on one occurance. It is currently at a dealership to determine the problem. Anyone else have this happen or have an idea of what the problem might be? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks...

dustyk · August 2005

My first question is who did the transmission fluid change?

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk · August 2005

Worn spark plugs will most certainly have a negative impact fuel consumption. Although the "A" maintenance schedule (normal service) will let you go 90,000 miles on plugs, the "B" schedule (severe service) requires a change every 30,000 miles.

From what I can tell the 4.7 engine is pretty good on spark plugs. I've talked to folks that have gone more than 75K on the factory Champions. However, I've also talked to a few that thought their 4.7 was running pretty good - no noticeable skips or roughness - yet after a spark plug change said they noticed a difference in smoothness, performance, and fuel mileage.

My personal belief is that most modern engines do seem to run fine when there's high mileage on the spark plugs. Newer designs have more powerful ignition coils and cleaner burning combustion chambers. But fuel quality and driving conditions can impact individual results.

Even though I changed-out my factory Champion RC12MCC4s for Bosch 4418 Platinum+4s, supposedly a much longer lasting plug, I do not intend to try to take then to failure. Spark plugs are relatively inexpensive maintenance items, even the pricey platinums. This seems especially acute now that gasoline prices are $2.61 a gallon!.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · August 2005

I checked one of the Bosch 4418s in my 4.7 tonight. At 37K I was very surprised to see that the center electrode on number 1 cylinder was completely gone! The electrode had eroded down completely to the very tip of the electrode insulator.

Now the Dak seems to be running fine, although I think I noticed a very slight lag on transmission kickdown in the last couple of months. I'm still averaging 16.78 MPG with more around town driving with the air conditioning on, the idle is good and there has been no other noticeable performance problems.

I was hoping to change these out at 50K, just for a round number, but the loss of an electrode has me a little concerned. I'm also disappointed in the Bosch Platinum+4s at this mileage, although in all fairness the engine seems to be running fine. I may change them out just to see if there's a difference.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Bests,
Dusty

khudsonllb · August 2005

I bought a used 2003 Ram 1500 dual cab with the 5.9L gasoline engine a few weeks ago. (27K miles) It has an aftermarket cold air intake, Gibson exhaust and 20 inch wheels. According to the trip computer, I'm getting 10.5 to 12.5 mpg on city streets, and 12.5 to 15 mpg on the freeway on my 15 mile commute. I've calculated my mileage at 12 to 15 mpg overall based on fillups, but I'm estimating as others in the family are not yet trained to record mileage and gas amount when filling the truck.

What can I do to increase my gas mileage? Its pretty clear that my son, with his heavy foot, gets about 2 mpg less than me. However, even when I baby it, I can't seem to get above 16 mpg on the freeway, and with city driving it drops back down to 14.5 or even lower pretty fast.

Which, if any, of the following should I consider?
increase tire pressure
use 89 or 91 octane gas instead of 87
turn off overdrive
use a performance chip
switch to synthetic oil

Also, the trip computer in the overhead console shows average mpg, but not instantaneous mpg. Any way to tweak it so it will show instantaneous mpg? Or, is there an aftermarket add-on that will show instantaneous mpg?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Keith H

dustyk · August 2005

I can't remember what the city/highway EPA rating was for your '03 5.9, but 16 on the highway isn't bad for your setup (you didn't state whether it was 2-wheel or four-wheel drive).

Increased octane fuels will not benefit fuel consumption unless the engine is experiencing detonation or in the borderline zone. A performance chip is iffy.

Switching off the overdrive will hurt fuel consumption.

Increasing tire pressure will usually provide some positive impact, but the amount often depends on the tire design. Synthetic lubricant manufacturers claim that their fluids will increase mileage.

For some reason ...probably to reduce the propensity of drivers to watch the numbers and increase the likihood of having an accident...newer Chrysler products have deleted the real time fuel mileage feature from their console computers. It may be possible to fit an older style computer board into the overhead console of your '03. On my Dakota it looks as if the consoles are the same from '01 to '04, and the RAMs and Dakotas got the same computer board.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk · August 2005

Okay. After looking at a new Bosch Platinum it appears that from the factory the electrode tip does not protrude past the tip of the center insulator, so my earlier panic...er...comment was premature.

I pulled another plug yesterday and it looks like these 4418s are running in the correct heat range The two plugs I've looked at have a light grey appearance on one half of the plug with a greenish haze on the other. All four ground conductors still have relatively sharp ends. The center insulator tip was just slightly brown or medium tan.

Dusty

dodger7 · August 2005

My friend owns a Dodge Ram 2500 Heavy Duty and insists on remote starting the engine so that it idles for 15mins before he drives it. This even in the middle of summer. It's the third week of August now and we've had one morning where the temps dipped to zero and there has been a touch of frost on the windscreen. Everything I've read from engine care to air care says their is no benefit to idling an engine longer than a minute or two, even in very cold weather (I believe that in diesel engines it is necessary to get the oil pressure up). What's the word on the Dodge Ram? Is my friend waste gas, adding to unnecessary greenhouse gases and damaging his engine? Or does the Dodge Ram 2500 Heavy Duty REALLY need a 10 to 15 minute warm-up before it hits the road?

Gotta Know,
dodger7

dustyk · August 2005

Actually, the Dodge owners manuals state that NO warm up is necessary. just drive moderately for the first few miles.

I think your friend either needs a very warm cabin before driving, or his last truck was a '26 REO.

Best regards,
Dusty

ron29 · August 2005

My dealer has suggested I change my spark plugs @ 30000 miles. A Hemi has 16 plugs and the dealer wants 224.00. I checked a few other places, and the cheapest I can find is $170.00. As the manufacture calls for a NON-platinum plug (why they must be changed every 30000 miles), the plugs themselves are cheap ... about $2.00 ea.. The labor is the majority of the expense.

Has anyone ever changed Hemi plugs? Any unusual problems/tools required (extra long extensions, etc)? Does anyone know if replacing them with platinum would be a wise idea (is there a real reason for non-platinum, or is this just a reason to get $224.00 off the Hemi owners every 30000 miles instead of just every 100000 miles)?

loncray · August 2005

Well, my Cummins doesn't have spark plugs, but my understanding is that the rear plugs on the Hemi and its Magnum predecessors are so far up under the cowl that they're VERY difficult to remove or replace - thus the very high charge to do so. You might want to get up under the hood and see if you can even get a socket on the rear ones before you go the DIY route.

gross · September 2005

I have a 1998 Dodge Ram V-6 with 70,000 miles. I want to change the transmission filter but need to know if this is something best left to a mechanic or could an amateur like me change it without a problem. Is there anything special I need to know?

dustyk · September 2005

It's well within the capabilities of a driveway mechanic:

1. Place a drop pan under the transmission to catch the fluid.

2. Loosen all of the transmission oil pan bolts approximately one-half way out of the transmission housing.

3. Remove all of the bolts except those at each corner of the pan.

NOTE: On that year truck you may have RTV sealant as a gasket material, or a one piece pan gasket.

4. Using a putty knife or other like tool, carefully insert the blade between the oil pan and the oil pan flange on the transmission.

5. Using moderate pressure only, move the putty knife blade along the oil pan mounting surface in order to break the seal. If this is a one piece gasket the seal should break fairly easily. When RTV is installed it may take more pressure to break the seal.

NOTE: In the following step the object will be to break the seal in only one area of the gasket surface to control the flow of the exiting fluid. This will prevent fluid from exiting around the full perimeter of the oil pan and reduce mess.

6. As the pan gasket surface pulls away from transmission fluid will begin to come out. Reposition the drop pan to catch the fluid.

7. Once the fluid has drained remove the remaining bolts and remove the oil pan.

8. Remove the RTV gasket material or the one piece gasket.

9. Using a gasket scraper or putty knife, ensure that the gasket surface on the transmission is clean of any old gasket material.

10. Locate and remove the small round magnet from the inside of the transmission oil pan.

11. Using a suitable non-flammable solvent or strong soapy warm water, clean the oil pan thoroughly. Allow to dry.

12. Locate the transmission oil filter. The filter is a relatively thin black plastic assembly held to the bottom of the valve body by two phillips head screws.

13. Remove the two filter mounting screws and remove the filter.

14. Inspect the filter intake opening and the valve body for a small black "L"-shaped gasket. This gasket must be removed if still attached to the valve body.

NOTE: A new filter gasket should come with a new filter.

15. Using a small amount of Mopar All temperature Black RTV, apply a new filter gasket to the new filter. Allow to cure.

16. Install the new oil filter. The two screws should be torqued no greater than 35 inch pounds.

17. Clean the transmission oil pan and transmission housing gasket surfaces with a non-flammable solvent. The object is to get the surfaces clean of any oil residue.

18. Using RTV or a one piece gasket and the bolts, reinstall the oil pan. If using RTV allow at least 20 minutes to cure at 70 degrees F. Only use enough RTV to provide a thin film across the surface of the gasket. Do not over apply RTV.

19. Add enough Mopar ATF+4 to bring the fluid level to the minimum fill line on the transmission dipstick.

20. Start the engine. Check for leaks.

21. Check the fluid level. If the level is below the minimum fill line, add more ATF+4.

22. Allow the engine to come to operating temperature.

23. Ensure that the parking brake is on. Place your foot on the brake pedal.

24. Starting in Park, move the gear selector to neutral for at least 20 seconds.

25. Sequentially, more the gear selector into each gear for 20-30 seconds. Return to neutral for 20 seconds. Repeat again.

26. Place the transmission in park and recheck the fluid level. Add enough to bring the level to the "HOT" level.

Regards,
Dusty

cbxmountainman · September 2005

What brand of synthetic oil is OK for my 48RE auto other than the $20.00 qt. DC? Thanks.

dustyk · September 2005

I wouldn't use anything other than ATF+4. Although aftermarket ATFs might be synthetic, they will not have the correct friction modifier formula to ensure shift quality or consistency.

Twenty dollars a quart???? WOW!

The retail price is around $6 a quart. I bought some for a friends car a while ago and want to say it was under $6 without the tax. Twenty dollars sounds about right for the one gallon plastic jug, though.

Find another Dodge dealer...quick!

Good luck and best regards,
Dusty

mjrasc01 · September 2005

I have a 2002 Ram 1500 with the 4.7l engine, 2WD. I only get about 13 mpg average when I baby it. It is all mainly in city driving. I change my oil/oil filter every 3000, I keep the air filter clean, tire pressure correct. It has 60,000 miles on it and I am about to replace the spark plugs. Is there anything else I can do to get better gas mileage?? I have been reading other posts and it seems like everybody is getting better gas mileage than I am with an even bigger truck, mine is only a single cab short bed. Anything you have will help, thanks. - Matt

dustyk · September 2005

You might see an increase if you are replacing the factory Champion sparks for the first time. You may try fully synthetic motor and gear oils.

However, my first guess is your city-type driving is taking its toll. Even though you say you "baby it," that can be a subjective description compared to another driver. One way to squeeze out better MPG in city driving is to time traffic lights to avoid having to come to a complete stop, also "eggshell" throttle pressure when taking away from a stop. Obviously, keep speeeds low is key, but you're probably already doing that.

In all honesty, you aren't all that far away from what I hear most are getting with a 4.7 in a full size RAM, which is about 14-15.

Best regards,
Dusty

mjrasc01 · September 2005

I am looking at putting fog lights into my 2002 Dodge Ram SLT but I don't want to spend the price that MOPAR charges for the O.E.M. lights. Is there another way I could put fog lights in my truck without having to buy the factory mounts? I have found some on e-Bay for fairly cheap but I'm not sure how it would look in the bumber. Thanks, Matt

coondogger · September 2005

I've used Fram oil filters on my 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 for the last two oil changes. I lightly oil the surface of the gasket with clean oil and am very careful about not overtightening the filter. I think this is crucial because if you overtighten, the gasket (and therefore the seal) can be compromised. In which case, you'll get an annoying, constant leak. I know this from experience when I was younger and less patient about things.

coondogger · September 2005

Dusty,

How do I access the spark plugs on my Dodge 1500 pickup? I have the 4.7L Magnum engine. I don't see the rubber boots anywhere. Just some little boxes with the wires sticking out. Are they hidden underneath something that I have to remove to get to them?

dustyk · October 2005

On the 4.7 engine each spark plug has a ignition coil mounted directly on top of the plug. These have a electrical connector attach to one side near the top of the coil. They are in a gray plastic case and are square-ish at the top. The lower portion of the coil is tubular shaped. There should be a small, white-painted "dot" of paint on each one.

The coils are attached using a single 10mm nut which is located between the coil and the center of the intake maniford. Remove the nut and pull the coil straight upwards. The spark plug can now be accessed.

When reinstalling the coil it is recommended that a small amount of silicon grease be applied to the rubber seal at the end of the coil.

Access to some of the coils and spark plugs will require removal of the air filter housing cover, hose, and some other small engine plumbing tubes that run across the front of the throttlebody.

Good luck and best regards,
Dusty

coondogger · October 2005

Thanks Dusty,

I bought a set of new platinum plugs and I'm going to tackle the job this weekend. I'm also going to flush the radiator and put fresh coolant in for the winter. I might try that pink, non-toxic marine anti-freeze. Now if I can just find the drain plug on the radiator!

rxpx40 · October 2005

Hi all,
I own a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 extended conversion Van. It has the 5.2L engine.
I know it isn't a truck, but the components are the same:
The last trip to Florida resulted in a serious whine in the rear. I have tracked the problem down to the input bearing on the pinion shaft. I have opened the differential and removed the gears that slip the axles. I am stuck with trying to remove the ring gear so I can remove the pinion and the bearing that is trashed.
Can you offer any help? I have already removed the bearing straps on either side of the ring gear assembly, and it looks like the whole assembly should just fall out.
It isn't..
Thanks in advance

Chris

dustyk · October 2005

Did you remove each axle shaft?

Regards,
Dusty

rxpx40 · October 2005

I did.
After posting, I got in touch with a certified mechanic who told me where the problem lie:
The ring gear assembly is held in place by two adjusters on either side of the assembly bearings. These 'adjusters' are similar to large, hollow locking nuts that adjust the left-to-right position of the ring gear assembly. They can only be reached from the wheel ends of the axle tubes. A homemade tool was required to remove the adjusters and the whole assembly has come out.
All new bearings and seals; a total of 13 pieces cost me $397 at the dealer. A 10% coupon has taken some of the bite off that price.
Now the fun begins!

Thanks
Chris

napoleon · October 2005

has anyone ever opened up a dodge computer to do repairs? I have a 95 5.9L ram van 3500 with an electrical short in the ecm. is there a way to remove the resin goop that covers the components on the inside. it appears to be a simple fix if i can get inside without destroying it HELP!

peter33 · January 2006

My 95 Ram 1500 started making a noise like snow tire whine. At 105,000 could this be a bearing in the rear? It's gotten much louder in the last 300 miles. Oil level is good showing moderate metal. The noise starts at 15 mph and peaks at 35, pitch and volume match road speed and doesn't differ from accel. and coast, neutral or drive, right or left rear tire off the ground. Also does it in reverse. I see from the previous message that the dealer brngs. are costly. Can they be acquired from my bearing supplier or are they only Chrysler? I quit working on cars years ago but would like to fix it myself if no REAL special tools are needed. How is the pinion depth set in this rear? I have my own machine shop so making simple tools is OK. Thanx for any help.

jneal · February 2006

Peter33, I'm not 100% sure that what you are hearing is differential noise. I lean toward thinking either a axle bearing, u-joint, or driveshaft carrier bearing if your van has one.
If it is the differential I would find a shop specializing in that type repair. The average shop doesn't usually have the expertise to set the differential up properly.

peter33 · February 2006

Thanx jneal. Refer to #93. Note that this pickup has no center shaft brng. and the noise is consistant when only one rear tire is off the ground. I was wondering if this was a common symptom for this truck and someone might be able to point to the problem with a degree of certainty. Might anyone know about the bearing availabilty and difficulty of pinion installation in this particular rear if in fact the problem is pinion brngs. Thanx

dellis · February 2006

I have an 03' with the 4.7. I am getting 9.7 miles at about 30% highway driving, and 14.5 at 90% highway driving. I get a little better when I use a higher grade of fuel

dellis · February 2006

Does anybody know what kind of screw/clip whatever it is that is holding the tail light on iside the fender well? I can not see it, but it is not a regular flat head screw, or a thorx head like the two that are inside the tailgate. I need to replace both my rear tail lights with after market ones that I bought, but I can not get the old ones off...somebody please help me. :confuse:

shernandez · February 2006

If I remember correctly there is two philips screws on each side when you open the tailgate. then you pull back on the light. I'm pretty sure they're just snapped in place on the bed side. I'll check one at work on monday if you can't figure it out.
---------------------------------------

Just found this info. I was right. just pull on it after you take out the screws.

REMOVAL
Lower the tail gate.
Remove the screws
Disengage the taillamp unit from the body panel.
Disconnect the electrical connector (Tail Lamp Unit).

INSTALLATION
Connect the wiring harness connector.
Position the taillamp unit into the body panel.
Install the screws (Tail Lamp Unit).

peter33 · February 2006

Re:#95 above. Before going ahead with rearend repairs, I made one more test. I disconnected the shaft and towed the truck. No noise. The loud whinning hum that is present when coasting with no engine is not there. The joints feel OK. Now what? Something in the transmission? Speedo?

peter33 · February 2006

Hey Chris. I think I have a similar problem with a noise in my Ram 1500 and would like to know if you have solved yours. Was it the pinion bearings? Thanx Peter33

dustyk · February 2006

If you have any appreciable amount of miles on this truck, I'd replace both U-joints and reinstall the driveshaft. I have heard of RAMs with premature U-joint failures (probably due to lack of lubrication when installed at the factory).

Of course, troubleshoot differential noise is driveshaft dependent. The shaft needs to be in place in order to detect pinion bearing problems.

Regards,
Dusty

davhemp · March 2006

Hi. I have the exact same problem. - Peter33 - did you find out what it was?

davhemp · March 2006

Hi. Did you ever find out what this was? I have the identical problem; replaced u-joints, wheel joints, inspected the rear end, transfer case, etc and can't seem to locate it. This sux!

ram4ever · March 2006

Hello guys. I have a 2001 Ram 1500 QC ( 5.9 L Magnum, Auto, 4X4, LB, 3.92 AR, LSD...) which I bought (factory ordered) in September of 2000, at the time I also bought a case of Mobil 1 M1-204 oil filters @ K-Mart that I have been using through the years when changing the oil, now here's my problem, I'm down to 1 filter left and can't find any retailer that carries it, I've found FRAM, Purolator and some other brand names which are really manufactured by Allied-Signal. Do any of you know of any national or regional retailer that carries it? I have yet to check the Exxon/Mobil gas stations since they probably charge a premium IF they carry it. Thanks.

jneal · March 2006

AutoZone supposedly carries the filter along with Oreilly's.
You might also try Mobil1.com if you don't mind ordering on-line. There are some links on that site to order from.

ram4ever · March 2006

Thanks Neal, as you advised AutoZone has it in stock @ all the stores within a 10 mile-radius of my home, for whatever the reason, it didn't occur to me to look AZ up, I guess old habits die hard, I'd gotten used to getting parts & supplies @ Strauss, Sam's and Goodyear and had become mentally jaded. Now that I have slapped myself a couple of times while simultaneously looking @ myself in the mirror & exclaiming with a heavy Joisy accent..."Ooohhh, what's 'a matter wich you!!!" I can be considered awaken. Thanks again.

Dodge Ram Care and Maintenance

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles