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Mercedes 300D Suggestions

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Comments

  • merceds300sd84merceds300sd84 Member Posts: 10
    I want to do the conversion to wvo my car is 300sd 1984 can you give me where i can get the kits iam in Canada my friend was using that for 10 yrs and nmore i can buy it in the us too
  • merceds300sd84merceds300sd84 Member Posts: 10
    can you tell me if the automatic transmission for 300sd turbo 1984 if its easy to change a new at front seal cause its leaking a oil and how much time it takes to remove old one and put anew one
    one friend mecanik will do it without taking the whole transmission down or out completely is that ok do you think it can be done caus it sometimes makes a knoc when moving at some some speed alainrouthier108@hotmail.com
    waiting for answer
  • merceds300sd84merceds300sd84 Member Posts: 10
    is it true that wvo is good for the motor do yoiu have to add something else so it would run better like
  • nrkmannnrkmann Member Posts: 8
    Try autohausaz.com.. here is listing for heater control parts

    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=44ltka45jb4qee45dc0hh0vr&makei- d=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1194038@300SD&year=1984&cid=24@AC%20%26%20Heat%20-%20C- limate%20Control&gid=6860@AC%20%26%20Heater%20Control%20Valve
  • 84benz84benz Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1984 300D Turbo. It runs great BUT. Once in a while when I start from a stop . . . it just barely goes and the motor does not speed up and therefore the turbo does not kick in. Once I finally get some speed, it does OK.
    This happens very infrequently so most of the time its no problem, but not knowing when it might happen makes it russian roulette when I pull into or accross oncoming traffic. Any ideas? Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to day without driving it but you might try some very strong injector cleaner and give it a good run. Also make sure all your turbo plumbing is very tight and secure.

    If none of that works, a valve adjustment and injection pump timing are probably a good next step.

    Many of these old diesels are severely neglected with regards to valve adjustment, dirty fuel, worn out injectors (they wear just like any other part) and weak glow plugs (also a replacement item that is overlooked).

    when I bought my pristine 300D, it took about 3 months and $1,500 to clear up all the mistakes, neglect and omissions. Hopefully you'll have a smoother road. But if this is a high miler, certainly there are wear items.
  • peter64peter64 Member Posts: 16
    I need to replace the lower ball joints on my 85 300D. How hard is it and do I need any special tools.

    Thanks,
    Peter
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah you'll need some special tools or equivalents. It looks like mostly nut and bolt work and disassembly of front suspension. The lowers are harder than the uppers. The book says about 3 hours per side for lower ball joints by a skilled mechanic. I'm sure a mechanic with air tools, experience and special tools can beat that no problem.

    So if I were you I'd get a repair manual for sure, study it and then decide. With luck, looks like a one day job for you. I've never done that particular job so I'm not sure about how to skirt the special tool stuff, but generally you can figure something out. The special tool is like a little vise that neatly presses the new ball joint into the steering knuckle--and no, you don't want to have to buy one. Maybe you could rent something suitable I don't know or borrow it.

    1. Jack up vehicle at the front, place supporting jacks outside against lower control arms. Remove front wheel.

    2.Unscrew steering knuckle arm from Steering knuckle.

    3. Unscrew brake caliper from steering knuckle and attach to torsion bar by means of a suitable hook. Do not expose brake hose to tensile stress. Note: On vehicles with ABS. additionally remove rpm sensor from steering knuckle.
    4. Remove front wheel hub.

    5. Loosen hex. nut on guide joint (8 ) and remove joint from steering knuckle by means of tool.

    6. Loosen hex. nut on supporting joint

    7. Swing steering knuckle at top slightly outwards and force supporting joint from lower control arm by means of tool
    8. Remove steering knuckle.
    9. It required, unscrew cover plate from steering knuckle.

    Installation

    10. Check supporting joint in steering knuckle.
    11. Check cover plate and screw to steering knuckle.

    12. Attach steering, knuckle to lower and upper control arm. Attention! Keep cone of ball pins and seats in steering knuckle or lower control arm free of grease. Use new self locking hex. nuts.

    13. If the ball pin on guide or supporting joint is turning when the hex. nut is tightened insert spacing disc and pull cone of ball pin into steering knuckle or lower control arm by tightening hex nut. Then loosen hex nut remove spacing plate and tighten hex. nut to specified torque.

    he spacing plate can be self-made.

    14. Install front wheel hub.
    15. On vehicles with ABS. fasten rpm sensor in steering knuckle by means of hex. socket screw.
    16. Adjust wheel bearing end play.
    17. Install brake caliper. Attention! Do not twist brake hose and do not subject to tensile stresses.
    18. Mount steering knuckle arm to steering knuckle with new self-locking bolts.
    19. Mount front wheel, lower vehicle.
    20. Check wheel adjustment at front axle.
    21. Check adjustment of head lights.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    I don't know about the lowers, but I just had my mechanic replace the upper ball joints, and watched him- it was a b****. The bolt was rusted and stuck inside, very cramped area, had to cut off the nut end and also the bolt head, and pry apart the "fork" a little bit so that the joint dropped down. My car was there for 2 days; guesstimate he spent a good 6 hours.
    If the bolt comes off easy, it's not bad, but if it is stubborn- watch out!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Unfortunately, the labor guides don't estimate the woes associated with 25 year old cars when you take them apart. When I used to work on cars like this, I'd pre-soak all the bolts overnight, and I had a very impressive arsenal of "persuaders" ranging from a 3 lb. mallet with a short handle, cold chisel, propane torch, nut-crushers, easy-outs and if necessary, a neighbor with an air compressor and air chisel. My advice is don't start a job like this on a very old car without being prepared for combat. Nothing worse than being halfway in a job and you have to stop for lack of a tool the "carefully applied violence" obtainable from certain specialty tools.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    yep- all those things were used- WD40, propane torch, hammer, chisel, electric saw, etc.- still was a B****!!
    I'd be very careful if someone wants to handle this kinda job themselves without all the "accessories"; especially if it's the original and never been replaced. Luckily, I have a good mechanic I trust for these things, and it was worth it for me to pay the $365- parts and labor and all for the 2 upper ball joints. He charged me only $100 extra from what he had quoted me ($265)- I thought that was fair enough.
  • peter64peter64 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for all the advise. I think I'll leave this one to the experts.

    Peter
  • peter64peter64 Member Posts: 16
    Has anyone had this happen? When I went to change the oil filter, I noticed that one of the top cover studs had treaded down and I only have about two or three threads left for the nut. Can I just screw it out with a pair of channel locks?

    Peter
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Wrap some duct tape around the jaws of the pliers or channel locks to protect the threads on the stud. If you want to keep it from doing it again take it out, clean it and the threaded hole it goes in, then put some loctite on it and put it back in at the right height. Let the loctite set before putting the nut back on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can also "double nut" it to get it out.

    Are you using a genuine Mann filter? If you buy aftermarket drop-ins for this car, they sometimes DO NOT FIT!
  • waylandchenwaylandchen Member Posts: 8
    hi again,
    my mechanic suggested that i replace the front two tires because the traction is gone. but when i go onto costco.com to find a set of tires, i can't find one that matches my model type. are there any other model's tires that are equivalent to my model's tires?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your car (W124) takes 195/65R 15 90H

    that's all you need to worry about...and of course, buying a tire that isn't crap made you-know-where.

    Something like a Kumho Ecsta tire would work fine I think.

    see at: www.tirerack.com
  • waylandchenwaylandchen Member Posts: 8
    what happens if its 91 h?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nothing. It's just a slightly better load index.
  • benzsilverbenzsilver Member Posts: 21
    i cannot name the part but perhaps reading your question has shed some light to a problem that has stumped me fo 4 days.let me shre with you my recent experience. my '84 cdt had not run for 8 yrs because of an electrical fire under the dash. i bought a new truck; however after the insurance co totaled out my '84 cdt i repurchased my baby. i repaired the damage, added fresh diesel to tank. the car started up immediately. i let it idle for a half hour. i was so happy to see and hear it run again. i decided to change the oil and filters(fuelx2 and air filter). to my disappointment, the car has not started again. i bought a new pump ( for bleeding the fuel system) it still will not start. as i am not familiar with the the shut-off valve, i was wondering if you might provide me with more information about it. perhaps this is why my car will not start? thanks to you or whomever might be able the help me solve my problem.thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you're sure you have the air out of the lines (you can crack an injection line open while you try to start the vehicle) then I'd go for the glow plugs or glow plug relay or fuse.

    One trick if you are careful is to hook up a battery cable to one glow plug. It's often enough to get the thing to start or almost start---if you do that and it wants to kick over, then you have no current to the glow plugs.
  • benzsilverbenzsilver Member Posts: 21
    I do appreciate your response and will attempt to do your recommendations. one question..... do I run a seperate line from the battery to one of the glowplugs and leave the battery hooked up the way it naturally is? thanks, benzsilver
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah that's fine but be sure the battery jumper cable doesn't touch anything else or you'll have a short. It has to hook up directly to the glow plug and nothing else. All you are doing is diverting current to one glow plug. Some heavy gauge wire, say 1/4 inch thick or so, would accomplish the same thing and with more finesse. I once made a jumper wire with a heavy duty clip on it, and I could hook it up from battery post to glow plug in an emergency---of course just until I could buy new glow plugs and then I never had starting problems again. Don't use thin cheesy wire, it will fry.
  • waylandchenwaylandchen Member Posts: 8
    i was thinking of customizing my mercedes benz 1987 300d. i wanted to add a muffler to it and maybe whatever else is recommended. i see my friends with their japanese cars and loud mufflers, spoilers, rims, etc; i wanted to join the crowd. however i know a muffler's sound is based on the engine size right? will a diesel engine make any difference? does it go louder than usual? do you have any suggestions on which muffler i could install along with other parts. thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's based somewhat indirectly on engine size in terms of the type of sound you might get, but also based on engine type (the pulses of combustion and how you hear them) and then again on the diameter of the exhaust tubing from exiting the engine all the way to the tailpipe.

    I have no idea what a diesel might sound like with a sport muffler but yeah, you could make it pretty loud if you wanted to. Keep in mind that what sounds good at 30 mph might drive you nuts after an hour on the freeway.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,139
    If you are going to "customize" an old W124, you should seek out a period Lorinser or AMG etc bodykit, maybe ask on the classifieds section of a MB-specific forum, as such items are long out of production. I doubt there are any customization items still being made for those cars.
  • bj789bj789 Member Posts: 1
    My Mercedes-Benz experience (as I'm writing this, it's in the shop).

    Model: 300D Turbo
    Year: 1987
    Current Mileage: 105,000
    Purchased Mileage: 97,000
    Purchased: August 2007

    I purchased my 300D a little over a year ago from it's second owner. I was very excited to find this model with so few miles on it. Mechanics ask me if it was handed down through the family because it's in such good shape. Car cleaned up great and aesthetically it looks amazing for a 21 yr old car. The build quality is fantastic. The doors "clunk" closed still after all this time, very little rattles in the car and a good bit of the gizmo's that made this thing a "luxury" car back in the day still work. However, looks aren't everything....

    I've had it in the shop 4 times ( :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: ) so far and I've owned it for little over 1 year. The majority of the time in the shop has been related to electronic issues (windows no longer working (Check your fuses first!), climate control fans stuck on, A/C not working, etc.) However just recently there have been some mechanical issues. I have it in the shop now as I'm typing this review. This most recent problem began on the highway. As I was cruising for a few minutes at 65 suddenly the engine began to rattle and go up in RPM's and thick greyish-white smoke poured out the back, accompanied by a burning smell. Immediately I pulled off the road and turned the car off. Upon restart it seemed to idle a little rougher but the loud rattle and grey smoke had stopped. I continued to drive the car since I'm on a budget and it was still driving ok, but I kept it off the highway as much as possible. Slowly, the issue became more present at lower speeds. The drivability of the car was hindered even in town, so into the shop it went. Additionally, when I park the car with the nose elevated even just a few inches above the tail, it won't start without cranking forever and flooring the accelerator. Apparently a fuel leak of some kind.

    So, at this point I've spent almost as much on repairs as I did to buy the car.

    Just know this: buying one is inexpensive. It's maintaining them that costs so much. They must be taken to a Bosch certified mechanic and most of those start around $90 an hour (and that's cheap compared to taking it into the MB dealer). Oil changes run about $90 as well. So, before you buy one, understand that you get the deal up front. It's after the fact and actually owning the car that becomes so expensive (like a Porsche). Plus it's just annoying to be without your set of wheels for days and days at a time.

    To sum up, I'd give my 300D Turbo about 3 stars out of 10. One star for how swell it looks for an all original 21 year old car, one star for the inexpensive purchase price, and one star for getting to drive around in a Mercedes-Benz. There is something undeniable about seeing that 3-pointed star glitter on the hood when you cruise around town.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    Good account of your ownership experience. Your conclusion is about what I expected. Too bad these cars aren't lower maintenance because they're very appealing.

    Fintail, do you think the ''07, '08 and '09 E-Series is more reliable?
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,139
    That diesel W124 story is sad....I had a gas (I6) W126 S-class, 1989...drove it for a few years, put maybe 35K on it, and my only unscheduled repair was a fuel injection part that slowly died, costing mabye $350. I did have shocks and some suspension bushings replaced just to make it handle nicer, but no real expenses other than that apart from oil changes and aesthetics (Euro lights). The car had something like 155K on it when I bought it, about 190K when I sold it, IIRC....so it wasn't a garage queen either. It had just always been looked after, and those cars were MB's quality pinnacle.

    In newer cars, my C43 had no issues at all, and my E55 had a couple small electrical hiccups (sunshade and instrument cluster pixels - both under warranty) and nothing else - the old school AMG powetrains are considered bulletproof if maintained.

    I have little doubt a modern E-class should be fine. It might have an electrical glitch here and there, but I think for the most part, MB's bad days are over. It's the early 2000s S-class I would avoid most, and I have read some C and SLK cars from that era can be iffy too, along with early W211 E-class. I would avoid non-AMG cars from 1996-2004 or so. Maintenance is still pricey and that irks some people, but that's what you pay to play, I guess.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    Thanks, fintail. Although I'm not in the market right now, MBs are among the brands that appeal to me, so the information you provided is useful. The thing to remember is to "avoid non-AMG cars from 1996-2004 or so." I interpret that to include, say '95s and '04s too, to be safe, which means it's relatively safe to consider '94s and older, keeping in mind that these are old cars now, and '05s and newer. Do I have that right?

    I wouldn't be interested in an AMG because I'd be very happy with the performance and appearance of the regular models.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,139
    The key is maintenance. EVERYTHING has to be up to date, or you will pay for deferred requirements. The cars also need regular fluid changes, and need the same maintenance to retain cosmetic appearance as any other car. It seems many people stretch themselves to buy these things as a second or third owner, so the cars miss out on what they need both inside and outside. You don't want one after that unless you have it inspected and budget for the needs. For any car, get it checked out, and find a good indy mechanic...from my experience, MB dealers don't like dealing with you unless you drive a new S-class.

    For cars to avoid if you want less hassle, I would keep away from W140 cars, earlier W210 cars especially from the east coast, earlier W203 cars, most W220 cars, along with some SLKs and MLs. Those years aren't set in stone, but they kind of go along with the passing of the W124, to the birth of the current models. If I was to get a W211 E-class like you mentioned, I would get a facelift model, or 2005+ AMG. Lots of them were dumped into leases, so they depreciate swiftly.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    I wouldn't be interested in any W140 or other S-Class, or ML, but would mainly consider a E or C-Class, in that order. The year would depend on whether it was a replacement for my wife's TL or my E30. For example, a W211 would serve as a replacement for the TL. What year was the W211 facelifted?

    I'd also have some interest in an SLK, as a replacement for my 300ZX.

    I maintain my cars very well, and we average ~19,000 per year for the three of them combined, so I don't need to make any changes. Still, you never know, especially with older cars, when you might have to replace one quickly. For example, a relatively minor accident could total an older car. You usually have advance notice regarding the failure of a major component (engine or transmission), but not always. Also, sometimes several small things fail or don't work right, and together they might equal the cost of repairing a major component, so you decide that its time to trade that car. This is a wordy way of saying that it's good to be prepared. That means having an idea of which car(s) would be suitable replacements for the one(s) you currently drive.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,139
    The W211 was facelifted for 07, and the engines were bumped up in size and power, from E320 to E350 and E500 to E550. The CLS is also based on this car, if you want something with less visibility but more visual impact. The W211 is going to be replaced in model year 2010 or 2011.

    I know a couple people with later (04-05) W203 C230 kompressor cars, and they haven't had any real problems, those cars seem to be well sorted. But the earlier ones can be glitchy. I think the current (05+) SLK has been decent too...but if you are tall, you won't like it...I didn't like the one I sat in anyway.

    I don't know if any of these cars will have Japanese reliability when it comes to electronics, and servicing has to be more as well. I think that shocks some people.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think we are drifting off topic here. Let's try to stick with the 300D. Thanks!

    Shifty the Host
  • lwoolardlwoolard Member Posts: 38
    Hi, I have a 1979 300sd. I posted some time ago about a vacuum problem and am happy to say it is solved. I have recently developed another problem and hope someone can help. My tach has started working intermittedly some days it will work all day fine and others not at all. I am not so concerned about that but what does concern me is that when it is working the car is not as quick on take off and takes forever to get from 45 to 55 and at 55 that seems to be as fast as it will go. However when the tach is not working the car accelerates alot faster and gets to 55 and beyond great. If I am driving with the tach working and it stops working the car accelerates then if it starts back working it is like the car pulls back. My question is is there some kind of govenor or something that would cause this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • lwoolardlwoolard Member Posts: 38
    Hi does anyone have any suggestions about my problem. Its almost as if the turbo does not work when the tach is working. The only thing I can trace it to is a little thing on the firewall that has a line running from the passenger side of the engine and then has one (a line) running out the other side of it (the thing on the firewall) to the top of the injector pump. I think it has to do with boost pressure but really don't know. It also has something electrical plugged to it that seems to run into the firewall. Could this be the culprit????
  • beechwoodbeechwood Member Posts: 8
    Went a number of weeks without adding any Redline to my fuel (not carried by local stores anymore). Noticed a pinging coming from the engine on startup...went away after engine was warmed up. Mechanic said add a double dose of Redline (I ordered several gallons online)...engine is now sounding normal. Also noticed that my mpg improved significantly with the double dosing. Question: would double dosing hurt my engine over time (or just my wallet)?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Maybe what you heard is called "nailing" in the diesel world and yeah, dirty injectors can do that. Was the Redline an injector cleaner or a Cetane booster?
  • beechwoodbeechwood Member Posts: 8
    The additive was Redline Diesel Fuel Catalyst....which I believe is both a cetane booster and cleaner. Is that what I should be using regularly?....and would the double dosing hurt my engine over time?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't think so. That's good stuff! You might try BGK-44 as an injector cleaner.
  • beechwoodbeechwood Member Posts: 8
    Great! Thanks for your help and support in this forum!
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    ok- here's a strange one. My 300D was (and is) running perfectly. I tried to make it more perfect- here's what I did:
    I was thinking of getting the EGR removal kit, but noticed that my EGR was already disabled (good!). The vacuum line going into the EGR was removed and the EGR opening was closed up by a screw. However, the end of the vacuum line (that originally went into the EGR) was open, so I thought it would be better to plug that up too, so I put in a screw to close it. I also put a couple of golf T's in the black control box since I noticed there were a couple of open ports.
    I take it for a drive, and everything is A-ok (I thought shifting was better- but maybe just an illusion).
    Anyway- I come back, turn off the key and voila! engine does not shut off. Had to shut it off manually. I must have affected something; so of course I remove the screw and the 2 golf T's that I had put in, and the engine still refuses to shut off.
    What could have happened? any ideas? All I did was try to plug up some open vac. lines!! Even after restoring them to the previous status, why does the engine still not shut off?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That means a vacuum leak somewhere. I bet by increasing the vacuum in the system by plugging a small line you opened up a bigger leak somewhere else. Shifting is also vacuum controlled. Maybe you pulled or yanked something?

    There are these tiny tiny vacuum lines over the valve cover, on the driver's side. If you are working on the engine, these always seem to come loose from their fragile plastic connectors.

    You know where the manual shut off is for the engine, right?
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    I'll check the vacuum lines on the valve cover- but I was quite careful not to disturb anything else. Shifting is still fine... and yes, I know where the manual shut off is; that's what I used to shut off the engine. Thanks-
    What do you think about removing the EGR valve and blocking off the exhaust and intake using one of those kits?
    Along those lines, any comment on removing the air filter box and replacing it with the direct air intake kit?
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    Problem solved- there was a vacuum line going to the engine that had gotten disconnected from the "Y" branch near the brake booster- connected it back up, and engine turns off normally. I am surprised- the small plastic connector looks very fragile, and barely holds up in the port; for good measure I tied the line with a piece of string to give it support so it doesn't come loose again.
    I also now plugged up the open EGR line with a screw; and shifting- though very good before- is even better now; real smooth and not hard. I can barely feel the shift into 3 and 4.
    Anybody have comments on replacing the standard air box with the "high performance" direct air kit with the K&N filter?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep those are the lines I was thinking of.

    No, I think K&N is a complete waste of money on a diesel--there is no air throttle regulation on a diesel--all you are doing is adding fuel.

    And yes, I tried it on mine and it makes no difference whatsoever.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    OK- thanks.
    I have another question though: Even though the vacuum line to the EGR valve is no longer connected, is the exhaust still going into the engine intake thru' the EGR? My thinking here is if any soot/ crud is going into the intake, will it be helpful to remove the EGR and block off both ends- the exhaust as well as the intake where the EGR connected, in order to prevent carbon deposits from going back in? There's a kit on ebay for $30 that does this, and seems simple enough.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the vacuum is disconnected, the EGR valve won't open. Unless of course it is stuck open right now. Usually you get EGR action on that car off idle and up to, but not at full throttle. At idle and full throttle, no EGR.

    If it's running okay, I wouldn't mess with it. Your car is emissions-exempt anyway.
  • brakeengrbrakeengr Member Posts: 98
    Can somebody tell me how to test if the glow plug relay is functioning ok on a '82 300D? The car wouldn't start; checked the battery- put in a new battery. After 2-3 days, won't start again. I suspect one of the things may be the relay not shutting off, and power being drained from the battery even while driving. So I would like to check the relay. Any other ideas?
    I tried to get to the voltage regulator behind the alternator; but just couldn't get to 1 screw to remove it- gave up.
  • lwoolardlwoolard Member Posts: 38
    Hi I have a 1979 300sd and my heater does'nt work, it used to but for some reason now it will not. The blower works fine and the air changes direction when different settings are pushed, but it only blows out cold air, even on defrost. It is not a/c cold, just cold air. I was wondering if the engine thermostat could be the problem?
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