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Mercedes 300D Suggestions



  • I want to do the conversion to wvo my car is 300sd 1984 can you give me where i can get the kits iam in Canada my friend was using that for 10 yrs and nmore i can buy it in the us too
  • can you tell me if the automatic transmission for 300sd turbo 1984 if its easy to change a new at front seal cause its leaking a oil and how much time it takes to remove old one and put anew one
    one friend mecanik will do it without taking the whole transmission down or out completely is that ok do you think it can be done caus it sometimes makes a knoc when moving at some some speed [email protected]
    waiting for answer
  • is it true that wvo is good for the motor do yoiu have to add something else so it would run better like
  • 84benz84benz Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1984 300D Turbo. It runs great BUT. Once in a while when I start from a stop . . . it just barely goes and the motor does not speed up and therefore the turbo does not kick in. Once I finally get some speed, it does OK.
    This happens very infrequently so most of the time its no problem, but not knowing when it might happen makes it russian roulette when I pull into or accross oncoming traffic. Any ideas? Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    Hard to day without driving it but you might try some very strong injector cleaner and give it a good run. Also make sure all your turbo plumbing is very tight and secure.

    If none of that works, a valve adjustment and injection pump timing are probably a good next step.

    Many of these old diesels are severely neglected with regards to valve adjustment, dirty fuel, worn out injectors (they wear just like any other part) and weak glow plugs (also a replacement item that is overlooked).

    when I bought my pristine 300D, it took about 3 months and $1,500 to clear up all the mistakes, neglect and omissions. Hopefully you'll have a smoother road. But if this is a high miler, certainly there are wear items.

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  • peter64peter64 Posts: 16
    I need to replace the lower ball joints on my 85 300D. How hard is it and do I need any special tools.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    Yeah you'll need some special tools or equivalents. It looks like mostly nut and bolt work and disassembly of front suspension. The lowers are harder than the uppers. The book says about 3 hours per side for lower ball joints by a skilled mechanic. I'm sure a mechanic with air tools, experience and special tools can beat that no problem.

    So if I were you I'd get a repair manual for sure, study it and then decide. With luck, looks like a one day job for you. I've never done that particular job so I'm not sure about how to skirt the special tool stuff, but generally you can figure something out. The special tool is like a little vise that neatly presses the new ball joint into the steering knuckle--and no, you don't want to have to buy one. Maybe you could rent something suitable I don't know or borrow it.

    1. Jack up vehicle at the front, place supporting jacks outside against lower control arms. Remove front wheel.

    2.Unscrew steering knuckle arm from Steering knuckle.

    3. Unscrew brake caliper from steering knuckle and attach to torsion bar by means of a suitable hook. Do not expose brake hose to tensile stress. Note: On vehicles with ABS. additionally remove rpm sensor from steering knuckle.
    4. Remove front wheel hub.

    5. Loosen hex. nut on guide joint (8 ) and remove joint from steering knuckle by means of tool.

    6. Loosen hex. nut on supporting joint

    7. Swing steering knuckle at top slightly outwards and force supporting joint from lower control arm by means of tool
    8. Remove steering knuckle.
    9. It required, unscrew cover plate from steering knuckle.


    10. Check supporting joint in steering knuckle.
    11. Check cover plate and screw to steering knuckle.

    12. Attach steering, knuckle to lower and upper control arm. Attention! Keep cone of ball pins and seats in steering knuckle or lower control arm free of grease. Use new self locking hex. nuts.

    13. If the ball pin on guide or supporting joint is turning when the hex. nut is tightened insert spacing disc and pull cone of ball pin into steering knuckle or lower control arm by tightening hex nut. Then loosen hex nut remove spacing plate and tighten hex. nut to specified torque.

    he spacing plate can be self-made.

    14. Install front wheel hub.
    15. On vehicles with ABS. fasten rpm sensor in steering knuckle by means of hex. socket screw.
    16. Adjust wheel bearing end play.
    17. Install brake caliper. Attention! Do not twist brake hose and do not subject to tensile stresses.
    18. Mount steering knuckle arm to steering knuckle with new self-locking bolts.
    19. Mount front wheel, lower vehicle.
    20. Check wheel adjustment at front axle.
    21. Check adjustment of head lights.

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  • brakeengrbrakeengr Posts: 98
    I don't know about the lowers, but I just had my mechanic replace the upper ball joints, and watched him- it was a b****. The bolt was rusted and stuck inside, very cramped area, had to cut off the nut end and also the bolt head, and pry apart the "fork" a little bit so that the joint dropped down. My car was there for 2 days; guesstimate he spent a good 6 hours.
    If the bolt comes off easy, it's not bad, but if it is stubborn- watch out!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    Unfortunately, the labor guides don't estimate the woes associated with 25 year old cars when you take them apart. When I used to work on cars like this, I'd pre-soak all the bolts overnight, and I had a very impressive arsenal of "persuaders" ranging from a 3 lb. mallet with a short handle, cold chisel, propane torch, nut-crushers, easy-outs and if necessary, a neighbor with an air compressor and air chisel. My advice is don't start a job like this on a very old car without being prepared for combat. Nothing worse than being halfway in a job and you have to stop for lack of a tool the "carefully applied violence" obtainable from certain specialty tools.

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  • brakeengrbrakeengr Posts: 98
    yep- all those things were used- WD40, propane torch, hammer, chisel, electric saw, etc.- still was a B****!!
    I'd be very careful if someone wants to handle this kinda job themselves without all the "accessories"; especially if it's the original and never been replaced. Luckily, I have a good mechanic I trust for these things, and it was worth it for me to pay the $365- parts and labor and all for the 2 upper ball joints. He charged me only $100 extra from what he had quoted me ($265)- I thought that was fair enough.
  • peter64peter64 Posts: 16
    Thanks for all the advise. I think I'll leave this one to the experts.

  • peter64peter64 Posts: 16
    Has anyone had this happen? When I went to change the oil filter, I noticed that one of the top cover studs had treaded down and I only have about two or three threads left for the nut. Can I just screw it out with a pair of channel locks?

  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Wrap some duct tape around the jaws of the pliers or channel locks to protect the threads on the stud. If you want to keep it from doing it again take it out, clean it and the threaded hole it goes in, then put some loctite on it and put it back in at the right height. Let the loctite set before putting the nut back on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    You can also "double nut" it to get it out.

    Are you using a genuine Mann filter? If you buy aftermarket drop-ins for this car, they sometimes DO NOT FIT!

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  • hi again,
    my mechanic suggested that i replace the front two tires because the traction is gone. but when i go onto to find a set of tires, i can't find one that matches my model type. are there any other model's tires that are equivalent to my model's tires?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    Your car (W124) takes 195/65R 15 90H

    that's all you need to worry about...and of course, buying a tire that isn't crap made you-know-where.

    Something like a Kumho Ecsta tire would work fine I think.

    see at:

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  • what happens if its 91 h?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    Nothing. It's just a slightly better load index.

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  • i cannot name the part but perhaps reading your question has shed some light to a problem that has stumped me fo 4 days.let me shre with you my recent experience. my '84 cdt had not run for 8 yrs because of an electrical fire under the dash. i bought a new truck; however after the insurance co totaled out my '84 cdt i repurchased my baby. i repaired the damage, added fresh diesel to tank. the car started up immediately. i let it idle for a half hour. i was so happy to see and hear it run again. i decided to change the oil and filters(fuelx2 and air filter). to my disappointment, the car has not started again. i bought a new pump ( for bleeding the fuel system) it still will not start. as i am not familiar with the the shut-off valve, i was wondering if you might provide me with more information about it. perhaps this is why my car will not start? thanks to you or whomever might be able the help me solve my problem.thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    If you're sure you have the air out of the lines (you can crack an injection line open while you try to start the vehicle) then I'd go for the glow plugs or glow plug relay or fuse.

    One trick if you are careful is to hook up a battery cable to one glow plug. It's often enough to get the thing to start or almost start---if you do that and it wants to kick over, then you have no current to the glow plugs.

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  • I do appreciate your response and will attempt to do your recommendations. one question..... do I run a seperate line from the battery to one of the glowplugs and leave the battery hooked up the way it naturally is? thanks, benzsilver
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    Yeah that's fine but be sure the battery jumper cable doesn't touch anything else or you'll have a short. It has to hook up directly to the glow plug and nothing else. All you are doing is diverting current to one glow plug. Some heavy gauge wire, say 1/4 inch thick or so, would accomplish the same thing and with more finesse. I once made a jumper wire with a heavy duty clip on it, and I could hook it up from battery post to glow plug in an emergency---of course just until I could buy new glow plugs and then I never had starting problems again. Don't use thin cheesy wire, it will fry.

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  • i was thinking of customizing my mercedes benz 1987 300d. i wanted to add a muffler to it and maybe whatever else is recommended. i see my friends with their japanese cars and loud mufflers, spoilers, rims, etc; i wanted to join the crowd. however i know a muffler's sound is based on the engine size right? will a diesel engine make any difference? does it go louder than usual? do you have any suggestions on which muffler i could install along with other parts. thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,880
    It's based somewhat indirectly on engine size in terms of the type of sound you might get, but also based on engine type (the pulses of combustion and how you hear them) and then again on the diameter of the exhaust tubing from exiting the engine all the way to the tailpipe.

    I have no idea what a diesel might sound like with a sport muffler but yeah, you could make it pretty loud if you wanted to. Keep in mind that what sounds good at 30 mph might drive you nuts after an hour on the freeway.

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  • fintailfintail Posts: 46,522
    If you are going to "customize" an old W124, you should seek out a period Lorinser or AMG etc bodykit, maybe ask on the classifieds section of a MB-specific forum, as such items are long out of production. I doubt there are any customization items still being made for those cars.
  • My Mercedes-Benz experience (as I'm writing this, it's in the shop).

    Model: 300D Turbo
    Year: 1987
    Current Mileage: 105,000
    Purchased Mileage: 97,000
    Purchased: August 2007

    I purchased my 300D a little over a year ago from it's second owner. I was very excited to find this model with so few miles on it. Mechanics ask me if it was handed down through the family because it's in such good shape. Car cleaned up great and aesthetically it looks amazing for a 21 yr old car. The build quality is fantastic. The doors "clunk" closed still after all this time, very little rattles in the car and a good bit of the gizmo's that made this thing a "luxury" car back in the day still work. However, looks aren't everything....

    I've had it in the shop 4 times ( :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: ) so far and I've owned it for little over 1 year. The majority of the time in the shop has been related to electronic issues (windows no longer working (Check your fuses first!), climate control fans stuck on, A/C not working, etc.) However just recently there have been some mechanical issues. I have it in the shop now as I'm typing this review. This most recent problem began on the highway. As I was cruising for a few minutes at 65 suddenly the engine began to rattle and go up in RPM's and thick greyish-white smoke poured out the back, accompanied by a burning smell. Immediately I pulled off the road and turned the car off. Upon restart it seemed to idle a little rougher but the loud rattle and grey smoke had stopped. I continued to drive the car since I'm on a budget and it was still driving ok, but I kept it off the highway as much as possible. Slowly, the issue became more present at lower speeds. The drivability of the car was hindered even in town, so into the shop it went. Additionally, when I park the car with the nose elevated even just a few inches above the tail, it won't start without cranking forever and flooring the accelerator. Apparently a fuel leak of some kind.

    So, at this point I've spent almost as much on repairs as I did to buy the car.

    Just know this: buying one is inexpensive. It's maintaining them that costs so much. They must be taken to a Bosch certified mechanic and most of those start around $90 an hour (and that's cheap compared to taking it into the MB dealer). Oil changes run about $90 as well. So, before you buy one, understand that you get the deal up front. It's after the fact and actually owning the car that becomes so expensive (like a Porsche). Plus it's just annoying to be without your set of wheels for days and days at a time.

    To sum up, I'd give my 300D Turbo about 3 stars out of 10. One star for how swell it looks for an all original 21 year old car, one star for the inexpensive purchase price, and one star for getting to drive around in a Mercedes-Benz. There is something undeniable about seeing that 3-pointed star glitter on the hood when you cruise around town.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,600
    Good account of your ownership experience. Your conclusion is about what I expected. Too bad these cars aren't lower maintenance because they're very appealing.

    Fintail, do you think the ''07, '08 and '09 E-Series is more reliable?
  • fintailfintail Posts: 46,522
    That diesel W124 story is sad....I had a gas (I6) W126 S-class, 1989...drove it for a few years, put maybe 35K on it, and my only unscheduled repair was a fuel injection part that slowly died, costing mabye $350. I did have shocks and some suspension bushings replaced just to make it handle nicer, but no real expenses other than that apart from oil changes and aesthetics (Euro lights). The car had something like 155K on it when I bought it, about 190K when I sold it, it wasn't a garage queen either. It had just always been looked after, and those cars were MB's quality pinnacle.

    In newer cars, my C43 had no issues at all, and my E55 had a couple small electrical hiccups (sunshade and instrument cluster pixels - both under warranty) and nothing else - the old school AMG powetrains are considered bulletproof if maintained.

    I have little doubt a modern E-class should be fine. It might have an electrical glitch here and there, but I think for the most part, MB's bad days are over. It's the early 2000s S-class I would avoid most, and I have read some C and SLK cars from that era can be iffy too, along with early W211 E-class. I would avoid non-AMG cars from 1996-2004 or so. Maintenance is still pricey and that irks some people, but that's what you pay to play, I guess.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,600
    Thanks, fintail. Although I'm not in the market right now, MBs are among the brands that appeal to me, so the information you provided is useful. The thing to remember is to "avoid non-AMG cars from 1996-2004 or so." I interpret that to include, say '95s and '04s too, to be safe, which means it's relatively safe to consider '94s and older, keeping in mind that these are old cars now, and '05s and newer. Do I have that right?

    I wouldn't be interested in an AMG because I'd be very happy with the performance and appearance of the regular models.
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