Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Good luck finding the problem though.
It could be a blow fuse, as the previous post says. It could be stuck relay.
My bet would be on the low freon.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My 2000 Park Ave is sputtering and it looks like I need a tune up! The quotes I have received for the work are incredible so I'd like to do it myself. Does anyone have instructions on how to replace the coils, wires and plugs and any other useful info I can use when embarking on this project on my own!
Tell us about the car and when it does what!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
IF your spark plugs and plug wires aren't less than 70K miles old, they need replacing with original equipment quality--for the plugs use the correct AC/Delco plugs recommended in the book. Weak wires and plugs can affect the coils and make them go out from the extra load of firing the plugs through the poor conductor in the wires. The iridium plugs that AC should have in there are meant for 100K and do that easily. You can judge when you take them out.
If I recall the coils just unscrew with two screws. Be sure to clean the contact area on the plate under them and use dielectric grease there.
You might check the coils with resistance meters. Your problem could be all in the wires if they've been on a long time. Depends on how much you want to spend. The crossfiring on them may be because of the wires not carrying the current they produce easily.
Keep the oil changed regularly. Check the transmission fluid to keep it drained and a filter replaced IF it has been maintained all along. If it hasn't let it go. Do not allow anyone to sell you a transmission flush.
Let us know how it works out for you.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Someone in New Jersey tabulated the failure of the CKPs and if I remember correctly, there was a batch of them manufactured during a portion of 2000 that were 4 times more likely to fail than other dates.
My father followed up on a lot of advice, replaced numerous sensors that were supposed to be grounding the computer, or indicating a high temp to the computer. But when he finally broke down and replaced the CKP, the problem went away. The part costs about $25-30 at Advance and he had a small front yard mechanic install his for about $50. Most won't install it that cheap, it is about an hour to hour and a half job to replace it.
He's happy with it now, and feels comfortable driving it on 2,000 mile trips again. He just got back from one.
You can search the net and find some people have sites that have pics from when they changed their's out. Very common engine. The service manual says you need to have the computer 'relearn' something when you replace the CKP, but I'm pretty sure this guy never did that. When I've replace the CKP on other model cars, there was never a 'relearning'. Just install and go.
If you have your CKP replaced and that fixes it, please write back for future readers.
However, something I didn't think about was checking the fuses. I had a bad key chip and thought the problem might be in the ingnition switch even after buying new keys. What I found was that over time the fuses had vibrated part way out with the ingnition fuse the furthest out. These were tightened and so far I have had no further problems. Thanks again.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
tks
tom
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My other thought would be fuel pressure. It's a little young in miles and years for the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft sensor to be bad.
Note that pulling the wires for the MAF sensor will turn on the Check Engine light.
Another thing might be to remove the IAC, idle air control, also on the throttle body. See if it's stopped up with black, wet soot.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Sorry to hear it is still giving you problems. If you google a bit, you'll find many mechanics get a lot of mileage out of this problem until the crank position sensor is finally replaced. I'm not sure how the mechanic was able to test a part that is only intermittantly failing but was hesitant to tell you that for fear of sounding too negative and bursting your bubble.
I have the factory service manual and I can't find a section in it that tells how to test it. It does list a group of components to test: wiring harness, plug wires, misrouted wires, poor connection, ign coil. There is a replacement section tho.
Before you spend too much on other parts, or trips to the mechanic, I still recommend having the CKP replaced. It really is a very common failure, and fairly inexpensive to fix.
This engine is shared with many GM cars and the problem is not unique to BPAs. Look at the top solution to this problem in the Chevy Impala:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrolet/Impala/2000/engine/stalls_while_driving.s- html
Thanks for updating, hope you get it fixed soon!
Brgds,
Brad
Thanks a million, it ended up being the MAF sensor. After unpluging it the car ran beautifully and I was able to drive it home. I was going to take it out and clean it to see if it would start working properly again before dishing out the 150 bucks for a new one. kinda wierd though, even with the sensor unpluged the check engine light still didn't go on. Anyways thanks again for the help!!!! :shades:
I just read another problem car with some miles that would die after running for a while because the fuel pump was heating up and not working right. The description was that it would start right back up. I assume that's because it cools quickly when it's not running. My suspiction was that it was a contact problem but either way the fuel pump fixed it. The only added part was that it sometimes would act like you were trying to give too much fuel. That was due to reduced pressure affecting the spray pattern of the injectors when the throttle body was opened up.
The one thing missing is yours seems to quit right now. No sputter. No poor running. Just quits.
A CPS, crankshaft position sensor, often gives trouble restarting. Cooling them with a splash of water onto the sensor at the edge of the crankshaft balancer will sometimes speed up the restart. But others have had problems and the car restarts right away.
Myself I would look carefully at the contacts on the Ignition spark control. The ground wire is black if I recall the post.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Anybody have/had this problem?
The coil pack on mine was the problem. Runs great now.
What is the symptom?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
rear bumper
bumper cover
upper and lower impact bars
right and left energy absorbers
upper molding
lower bumper cover support
This car is in great shape both mechanically as well as inside and out to be just written off as a loss The engine and transmission are in great running condition.
thank-you for any info you may have vanman391
rockauto.com
car-parts.com (recycling yards) a very interesting way to search for things.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
icemanstone
You are saying your fan for the heater inside and AC air is blowing just fine.
You are saying that the fans behind the radiator do NOT come on when the AC is turned on.
Am I right?
If so I believe there are two relays in the Relay Center that handle this. Give me some time. I have a 93 LeSabre/Park Avenue factory service manual.
If I'm not understanding, try explaining to me again.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I purchased the sensor off Ebay for 1/4 the cost of a new one from a seller who purchases overstock parts.
Once again --- Thanks.
Jake
My 1st post to Edmunds so please excuse me if I've ended up in the wrong forum!
anyway, I have a 1992 Park ave. Ultra and I've tried every thing between a new battery and starter (relays, etc...all the bells and whistles work but starter make's absolutly no noise) so I've bought a starter and it looks to me as if one of the bolts is under the front frame bar(? terminology) and I just can't get to it or I'm missing something about it. I mean there's only 2 bolts!
Anyone out there that has done this before? Especially in your on driveway? I would love any help that can be put forth. Even though it is the one with the supercharger, I would think the starter would be in the same pos. as other Park Aves. placement on the trans.
Or, if someone has a maintenance manual for a 92 P.A. Ultra I'd love to get my hands on one. As all of the car shops can get manuals for the 92PA, but they come back with, "except for the Ultra model".
And I love this car!
Thanks for any help you folks could generously give me............
Skydiver4
1. Disable airbag system as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/AIRBAG SYSTEM DISARMING.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable and raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove starter braces, shields or other components that may hinder starter removal.
DISARMING
The diagnostic energy reserve module (DERM) can maintain voltage to cause a system deployment for up to ten minutes after the ignition switch is turned off and the battery is disconnected. Servicing the SIR system during this period may result in accidental deployment and personal injury.
1. Ensure front wheels are pointed straight ahead.
2. Turn ignition switch to Lock position and remove SIR or AIRBAG fuse.
3. Remove lower left sound insulator.
4. Remove connector position assurance (CPA) lock and disconnect yellow two-way SIR harness connector at base of steering column
4. Support starter and remove mounting bolts.
5. Lower starter and disconnect solenoid wires and battery cable.
6. Remove starter from vehicle.
7. Reverse procedure to install.
8. Rearm airbag system as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/AIRBAG SYSTEM DISARMING.
ARMING:
1. Connect yellow two-way SIR harness connector and install CPA lock.
2. Install left sound insulator.
3. Install SIR fuse.
4. Turn ignition switch to Run position and ensure ``Inflatable Restraint'' lamp flashes 7-9 times and then remains off.
It's been about 6 months since I posted about this problem. My mom and I finally got around to bringing this vehicle in to get looked at. After much trial and error those who were checking it said that it was the "crankshaft position sensor."
How much should it run to have this fixed? Just curious. They said that after an $85 diagnostic fee and some money spent on gas the whole bill would come to $350. Does this sound reasonable?
We haven't authorized the repair yet, so we're just waiting.
Thanks for your patience and assistance.
So $85 diagnostic + $70 (with tax) for part + 1.1 hour labor at $100 an hour = $265.
If you are in places like California or NYC, labor rate may be higher.
Once again thank you everyone for your help. I know that I don't have a Buick, but I know that most GM cars are the same across the bored with cosmetic differences.
P0706 Trans range sensor circuit--out of range
P0705 Trans range sensor circuit--(PRNDL input)
P0332 Knock sensor 2 signal short/low
P0327 Knock sensor 1 signal short/low
P0135 02 Heater circuit B1 S1
P0133 02 Heater signal slow B1 S1
P0102 Mass air flow circuit signal low
This is exactly what was written down. I omitted the code about the crankshaft sensor since that was replaced. Thanks again for helping out. I know with older cars certain things aren't worth fixing.
Also, how difficult is it to change brakes on this car? They said that the car pulses when braking. I've never done it.
The brakes shouldn't be too hard. You need new brake rotors, sounds like they are warped.
Are these the type of rotors that you need a machine to remove, like the front rotors on a 95 Accord EX (pressed on I think is what they referred to those as.), or are they the ones that slide off after you remove the pads. I think I'm getting to the point where I can do that. Would having bad brakes cause the car to pull to the right if you don't have you hand on the wheel? I ask because we once had a van with a rotor that was completely rusted through, nothing was grabbing anything, and the steering would always pull severely to the left, the side with the good rotor, when the hand was off the wheel.
Sorry to pick your brains, but I have little money to play with and my mom has less. We just need to keep it running.
ANSWERS DEPARTMENT
I suggest trying the locknut on the stud to see if it turns the stud out or it you'll need a torx or the socket size that will jam onto it they mention in the writeup.
Another thing missing in the article is a supporting the motor slightly. Find a spot to lift with a small jack--some mechanics would tell you to put a block of wood under the oil pan give a small upward lift there but the factory service manual recommends not because it's easy to dent in the oil pan. The little lift is needed to help slide in the space at the end. They end up buffing the ends to make it fit. I have a hint because I watched my dealer change it at 60K on my 1998 leSabre. They lifted the left side of the car with a jack under the door where you would jack to change a tire onthe left side. That lifts the left side and takes the motor up with it giving support to the motor and tending to pull the lower part of the mount where the spacer sleeve is apart--giving more room for the spacer. They did not use a jack under the right wheel and just turned the front wheel all the way to the right to allow the mechanic to work. Good luck.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks and regards, Joe