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Infiniti G35 Care and Maintenance

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Comments

  • wes_888wes_888 Member Posts: 38
    Any thoughts on getting the paint protection offered by the dealership? It cost 200 bucks Canadian. Apparently, it keeps that "showroom" shine of the car.. Im getting a black G35.. what u guys think?

    And did u guys get it? The dealership uses Sym-Tech.
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    If you're referring to a package which includes a "treatment" to keep your car shiny and new looking, save your money.
    It's a complete rip-off.
    Every dealer offers it and it does nothing for you that you can't do yourself.

    I have a friend with a black Acura TL who spent $1,000 on a similar package.
    Several months later, a bird did it's business on his hood and he has a nasty haze mark there now.
    Although still under warranty and even with this magic package he bought, he got nothing.

    You're going to spend a lot of money to have some guy wax your car, which they're going to do anyway.

    Do yourself a favor.
    Buy your own products, do the work yourself, and save 90% of the $$$.

    I bought the full Zaino kit.
    I got the car home and then 'Dawn'ed it to strip the dealer's glaze.
    I then clayed, washed, washed again and then... started to layer the different polishes and sealants.
    Top it all off with a coat or 2 of wax, and you've got more protection than any $1,000 plan could ever give you.
  • wes_888wes_888 Member Posts: 38
    Okay. Gotcha. Thanks Scott.
  • flipsydeflipsyde Member Posts: 3
    I've had my G35 for almost 2 years now and I've noticed that my gas mileage has dropped from about 21-24 mpg to 16 mpg. I've recently had the oil changed and air filter replaced at the dealership and still my mpg sucks! My tires are Nitto 555's and have about 10k miles on them(still good) and my work commute has not changed so I don't understand the sudden drop in fuel efficiency. The service rep at the dealership suggested I try adding an octane booster to my fuel tank but I feel that wouldn't help the root cause of my problem. Is there a particular fuel cleaner that is safe to use in tthe g35's high octane engine? I'm open to any other suggestions to help me get my gas mileage back to where it needs to be. Thanks.

    Flip
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    Funny how your dealer told you to use an octane booster, when the manual clearly states to NEVER use any of those fuel additives in a bottle.

    Have you thought about going to a Synthetic oil?
    Most people report jumps in MPG.
  • flipsydeflipsyde Member Posts: 3
    I go with whatever they use to change the oil with at the dealership. Is Mobile1 synthetic the way to go? I'm open to give it a try to see if it helps.
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    Zeke... good point and yes, that's true.
    But, if you get a rock hit which is bad enough to cause damage through the 3M film, just think of how bad it would have been if the film wasn't there to begin with. ;)
  • tang2tang2 Member Posts: 12
    I ordered my 2007 G35 sedan and it will arrive in July....does anyone know the link to where I can down load the owners manual for the 2007 G35...I am trying to get a jump start on info.

    Thanks.... :)
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    http://www.infiniti.com/iapps/techpubs

    Congrats on the order, Tang.
    The wait is an absolute killer. :cry: but it's Sooooooo worth it in the end! :blush::)
  • newcarmannewcarman Member Posts: 55
    I forgot to ask before about how many miles can you get before the first brake change?? I have about 4000 and its an 07 G 35 X and do lots of stop and go driving.

    Maybe realistically i can get about 10,000 miles on the brakes before they need replacement??
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    10,000 from a set of pads is pathetic.
    Expect at least twice that, even with stop & go driving.

    There's no real driving interval, but feel free to have them check them during visits for oil changes.
  • laawaarislaawaaris Member Posts: 2
    I have a RED G35 COUPE and I have a few small specs on my car where the paint seems to have chipped off. Now Ijust see a white chip in its place.

    I don't know why this is happening, but I feel like I am seeing more and more flecks of paint flick off, especially on the driver side door area.

    My car G35 Coupe is RED and I want to keep it as red as possible. Should I get some touch up paint and try to dab a little bit of red back where I see white now?

    I've heard about Zaino, but I don't know if that is the route to go for this situation.
  • kb124kb124 Member Posts: 60
    Okay, I bought my G35 new and was offered a special on the Scotchguard and PaintShield and I took it. After that my brother said I wasted my money. For my car, what is done, is done.

    Now my wife is buying a new car and I expect she will get a similar pitch.

    Question is how other's feel about these care packages? Is there is real value in them long-term? Are are they actually a waste of money (as was suggested to me)? Is there any way to tell if the product was actually applied?
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    Complete waste of dough, unless it includes a lifetime of free cleanings (as I have seen offered in some cases)

    You're basically buying a coat of wax and a can of Scotchgaurd... and you're lucky if that's even applied.
    It's one of the dealer's largest money makers.

    Buy the complete Zaino kit for a little over $100- and do it yourself.
    You'll know it was done right and the protection you get will far outlast the crap the dealer puts on.
  • raizelgsraizelgs Member Posts: 84
    Do a search on the G35 boards for red paint problems. You may not like what you see, but you are not the first person with a chipping red paint issue. :( You may have to go back a year or two.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,504
    As already mentioned, the red paint chipping is a known issue -- discussed at great length.

    Welcome to the party.

    I've done a number of posts regarding the robustness (or lack thereof) of today's "green-friendly" paint, so won't repeat here. Old-school enamel didn't do this, plus which it was less prone to orange peel.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • gohmdoongeegohmdoongee Member Posts: 11
    Hi guys,

    I just ordered my G35X. I will be picking it up this weekend, and i just have a few questions.

    1. I spoke to the sales rep and he told me that the car currently has regular engine oil, and that synthetic is not recommended because the car's engine is made of aluminum and it needs to run cooler. and synthetics tend to make the engins run hotter. is this true? should i continue to use conventional engine oil compared to changing it to syntetic?

    2. I've read all over the internet, and people seem to be telling me different things about how to "break-in" a new car. Some say do not pass 3000-4000rpm, some say drive it rough, some say drive it as you would. Can someone give me some ideas on what's the best? and possibly their own expriences?

    3. This is kind of off the second question, but which bran of oil is the best?

    Thanks guys. This is my first financed car, and i'm planning on having it for a very long time, and i want to make sure everything's in check.
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    1. I spoke to the sales rep and he told me that the car currently has regular engine oil, and that synthetic is not recommended because the car's engine is made of aluminum and it needs to run cooler. and synthetics tend to make the engins run hotter. is this true? should i continue to use conventional engine oil compared to changing it to syntetic?

    2. I've read all over the internet, and people seem to be telling me different things about how to "break-in" a new car. Some say do not pass 3000-4000rpm, some say drive it rough, some say drive it as you would. Can someone give me some ideas on what's the best? and possibly their own expriences?

    Uh-Oh....I can hear a can of worms being opened! :blush:

    #1 - I have not heard of this but I follow the belief that synthetic oil should not be used for the first 12-15K.

    #2 - Don't beat on it yet. Break it in gently.
    This is very hard to do in the G, as it wants to GO!

    Try your best to keep it below 4,000 RPMs, vary RPMs on the highway, and avoid hard starts and stops for the first 1,200 miles.

    Then, have fun.

    Now... prepare for the millions who all have their own opinions! ;)
  • raizelgsraizelgs Member Posts: 84
    Everybody has an opinion about break-in and oil. I would recommend that you read the owners manual and see what Infiniti says to do, and then follow their recommendations.
  • gohmdoongeegohmdoongee Member Posts: 11
    Hi guys,

    Just wondering where everybody gets their oil changed. I want the best oil and filter for my car... but don't know if i can afford going to the dealer every time.

    i'm not so good with machanics... so i don't think changing it myself is an option. are those retail places depenable? like midas and such? thanks!
  • raizelgsraizelgs Member Posts: 84
    My dealer offers alifetime oil change for $300. I purchased that when the car was new, and I am about to get my 8th "free" oil change (plus they handwash and clean the car each time). :) Since a change is typically $30 with the filter, ($40 at the dealer), I am almost ahead in two years.

    See if your dealer has anything like that. It is worth it in the long run.
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    Wow - $300 for lifetime oil changes?!?! That is a GOOD deal. I know I'd sign up for it...though we won't be buying a new car until late next year at the earliest. In our preliminary look-see, the G35 is right now at the top of my wife's list, and it will be her car...replacing her 1999 VW Passat V6 GLS...120K miles and still going strong.

    I guess the dealer hopes to get you in regularly so they can try to find other things that need to be done to the car. Also, are the oil changes free only if you get other services done at the dealer? For example, do you have to have one of those expensive 40K checkups done?

    At VW, the 40K checkup included stuff like "Check door hinges, turn signals, and trunk operation..." It was a laundry list of stuff you could easily do yourself, but they charged $400 for it. The only true maintenance they were doing was an oil and filter change...the rest was (IMHO) fluff (at least at the dealer we went to).

    Anyway, congrats on the car and the oil change deal. I hope it continues to be the good deal it sounds like.
  • raizelgsraizelgs Member Posts: 84
    It is a great deal with no catches. The dealer gets the car in and out usually within the hour (I wait for it) and they do not pressure me for other work, although they do mention it when I pass a mileage point like $30,000.

    I have had some extra work done, but only what is in the manual, not the "we will check your doorknobs for adjustment special".

    They change the oil and filter, and do a hand wash of the car that is probably worth $10 by itself.

    I have had the car for a little over two years now and nothing has gone wrong with it. If you are in a winter state, be careful about winter tires. The summer specials that come with he car turn it into a hockey puck when there is snow and ice on the ground. (See discussions in the tire forum).
  • sweendogysweendogy Member Posts: 1,310
    OIL Change --Infiniti dealer in boston charged me 60 bux for the first oil change is that normal?? G35x 2007
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    My first oil change came to $45 @ Inskip in Warwick, RI.
    $60- seems a little high in comparison.

    I thought $45- was high... but a guy who drops $40k on a car can't complain about the $45- oil change, I guess.

    I plan on doing most of them myself... but I had to go in for the moonroof TSB anyway, so I figured..what the heck.

    With the new keyfobs out now, I may end up there again for oil change #2.
  • zekeman1zekeman1 Member Posts: 422
    $35 in Kansas City.
    Z
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    Maybe I should drive from MA to Kansas City for my next oil change...saving me $10
    I could get one Starbucks Latte each way, and it'd be almost like they were free! :P
  • miamishapsmiamishaps Member Posts: 15
    First oil change in Jacksonville, FL was 42. The 7500 mile checkup was 110. Ouch, not even sure they really did anything special.
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    The 7,500 mile checkup should have included an oil change as well as a tire rotation.
    Other things include an inspection of brakes, driveshafts & boots, propeller shaft, pilot bearing & universal joints, exhaust, steering & suspension.
    These inspections are just fluff and basically, are a complete ripoff.
    I'd bet my right --- that your propeller shaft was never inspected. LOL

    If your oil change is normally $42, that made your tire rotation $68-.
    Ouch is right!
  • sweendogysweendogy Member Posts: 1,310
    I Knew that 60bux for an oilchange was high== HerbChambers of boston I will need to have a chat with the service manager next time I go in.. For all smartkey holders they have the new keys at your dealer so next time you go in bring both keys and they will replace them.
  • maverick_g35maverick_g35 Member Posts: 4
    My dealer told me that infiniti's engine doesn't require any break-in - its all done in the factory.. is that true?? but anyway I am following the suggestions on how to drive during the first 1200 miles or so..

    I have about 600 miles on my G35x auto but haven't driven in the M mode. Should one be driving in the M mode now and then during the first so many miles??
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    Your dealer is a complete moron.

    You should go back there and tell them to read the manual.
    See below for the manual info.

    As for M mode, feel free to use it.
    When the car is new, it has a mind of it's own.
    Keeping it below 4,000 RPMs and avoiding quick starts is very tough.
    M mode gives you much more control of your RPM limitations.

    Just be sure to avoid the constant temptation to floor it. :blush:

    BREAK-IN SCHEDULE

    CAUTION
    During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km),
    follow these recommendations to obtain
    maximum engine performance and ensure
    the future reliability and economy of your
    new vehicle.
    Failure to follow these recommendations
    may result in shortened engine life and reduced
    engine performance.

    O Avoid driving for long periods at constant
    speed, either fast or slow. Do
    not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.

    O Do not accelerate at full throttle in any
    gear.

    O Avoid quick starts.

    O Avoid hard braking as much as possible.
  • shov8shov8 Member Posts: 87
    I plan on following the break-in schedule with my new G35, of course, but I am curious to know if anyone has ever heard about any engine issues that were attributed to not following the break-in? It might be impossible to tell, or even know. If you had a major issue down the road (say 80k or 90k miles) and you didn't follow the break-in, how would anyone know that was the root cause? I wonder what percent of people even follow the break-in period?

    Again, I'm just curious and plan to follow the break-in period, which incidentally is twice as long as my wife's new '08 v6 Accord :mad:

    kc
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    I know what you're saying and you're exactly right.

    Not folloing the break-in schedule will do little in the short term, and some die hards swear by driving it hard in the beginning, but long term is where this comes into play.

    People with engine trouble 75-90K down the road, I always wonder if they broke the car in correctly.
    Point is, even a mechanic wouldn't know if inproper break-in was the cause.

    If you're like me and plan on long term ownership, then following the suggestion of proper break-in is the only way to go.

    But at 1,200... all hell breaks loose! :P
  • cimabeucimabeu Member Posts: 2
    The Infiniti owner's manual and car service departments insist that no synthetic oils are to be used in their engines (for G35). Does anyone ACTUALLY KNOW (not theoretically) exactly why? What negative effects would the synthetics have on the G35 engine?
  • michael2003michael2003 Member Posts: 144
    It would be nice if there was a way to tell how a vehicle had been driving during the break-in period; after all, how would we know that someone hadn't already used the vehicle we purchased on a test drive and tested it's boundaries before we ever stepped foot in it.
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    Every G35 comes with a letter, usually in the glove box, stating what tests were done at the factory and how many miles it had on it when it left. (assuming the dealership prep guy doesn't throw it away)
    When you buy your car, it should certainly have less than 20 miles on it.

    The factory tests can be up to 10 miles, but are usually no more than 5 or 6.
    The other few miles come from transferring the cars from transports and around the dealer lots.

    My car came with 10.5 miles on it.
    Common sense will tell you if the car has been test driven before you buy.
    I don't know about other dealerships, but my test drive lasted almost 45 minutes and we drove that car EXTREMELY hard. I just followed the instructions of the salesman, and was amazed at the limits he allowed me to go to.
    Fun test drive, but there's no way in heck I wanted to buy that one when we were done!
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,504
    I have an '04 Pathfinder, and it has the same wording in the manual. I work in aerospace, and my guess is that it's the materials they use in o-rings & seals. Synthetic oil (MIL-L-23699 & MIL-L-7808 in my world) MUST be used with appropriate o-rings, or they'll shrink & fail to seal correctly. Either way, I run dino oil in the PF, just like I did years ago in my 240Z that still had hone marks in the cylinders when I tore the engine down at 200K miles (all I really needed was stem seals, it turned out).

    Just a theory, but in another board a few years ago I put this idea forward and someone came back to say that they had developed an oil leak a few months after starting to use synthetic oil.

    In reality, synthetic oil is only really helpful above 250 deg F (oil temp) or below zero. Otherwise, in my opinion, it's a lot like filling your tires with nitrogen -- makes you feel good & makes more money for someone.

    That said, I've been running Mobil 1 in my car for years & it has 123K miles on the engine.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • cimabeucimabeu Member Posts: 2
    By far the best answer I've read. In reality, I've been reading about the hype associated with synthetics, and after awhile it sounds like the proverbial "self fulfilling prohecy"- it's expensive, it has good reviews and therefore, it must be good (and so everyone imagines them to be superior b/c of the hype, cost and marketing). I've used Catrol GTX for decades and have gotten well over 300,000 miles on my Volvo engines (3 cars to date from the 80-90's). So, it seems that the issue is not oil type (synthetic vs. dino) but how one takes care of their car!

    Again, thanks for solid feedback!
  • shov8shov8 Member Posts: 87
    Hey! I just opened my glove box and found that note LOL. I hadn't opened the glove box since taking delivery :)

    Anyways, I can't make out the first name of the "quality assurance engineer" who tested my car, but his last name is Honda. Kinda funny eh? My car had 5 miles from the factory according to the note. There was also a little brochure about the navi system, just showing the coverage area and lane guidance. My '08 has Map Version 8.0 software FYI.

    Lastly, my experience during the test drive was exactly the same. I too was surprised at how much they let you do, even ask you to do, during the test drive. When the salesman was demoing the paddle shifter he said "take it to the redline - I want you to hit the rev limiter" or something very close to that :) He was showing that in DS mode the car will not shift for you. Man, some demo! And this on a car with like 25 miles on it. I was a good boy and did not hit the rev limiter but after the test drive I plopped my deposit down and said (to myself) "good thing I am not buying that car!" ;)

    kc
  • jadusseljadussel Member Posts: 2
    Today my dash lit up with VSD Off and Slip my whole ride into work, and the brake light flashed occasionally. The dealer says it is probably my front brakes - does this sound right?

    Are there any known issues pertaining to what I am seeing or the front brakes in general?

    I purchased the car from a dealer in August - it has 29k miles. Should brakes be something I am expecting about now?

    Thanks for any posts!
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    In an 05 G35x??? LOL

    Are you kidding?!?

    Enlightenment
  • jadusseljadussel Member Posts: 2
    disappointing... :( don't appreciate the lol. any recommendations for how to approach this with the dealer?
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    The LOL was not aimed at your situation and I do apologize.

    I'm just amazed at how people go and buy cars with little to no research first.
    The 05 G35x is absolutely PLAGUED with brake issues and is an extremely well known issue.

    I wish you stopped by here in July before buying in August... many would have given you the heads up.

    When the cars were under warranty, the dealer was pretty good about fixing these issues.
    Once out of warranty, especially with a used car, it's highly unlikely they'll do much for you.
    With 27,000 miles, the car should still be under warranty.
    Make sure they know that you are well aware of the known brake issues and you want this corrected for FREE.
    Also explain that you have very little miles added since purchasing.
    If worded correctly, you can put them on the spot for selling you a car with unsafe, unfit brakes.

    If they'll willing to work with you, this brake job may be free, or at least discounted.
    I'd be looking for all new parts for the next brake job though... the factory setup stinks.

    My #1 concern before buying the 07 was brakes.
    #2 was Bluetooth, as the pre-07 models had many complaining owners in that dept as well.
    I did a lot of research and asking around before I took the plunge.

    Go back and complain.
    Be polite and state your case.
    This car is new to you, has very little miles since you bought it and the brakes are gone.
    Use words like "unsafe", "warranty", and "known issue" while explaining that this should have been caught during their pre-sale safety inspection.
    They should help you.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Member Posts: 750
    I think it can be the brake. I used to have an '05 coupe. I needed to have some body work done and they needed to disconnect the battery. After they re-connected the battery, the SLIP light was on (car was kind of slippery when the light was on). I just have it reset by the dealer.

    I don't think you get the extended warranty on brakes on '05. It's only for '03 and '04.

    I don't have any major brake issues w/ my '05. I just needed to have it resurfaced once when I traded it in w/ around 17K miles.
  • scottm123scottm123 Member Posts: 1,501
    But... the 05x (keyword being "x") was the worst hit with the whole brake thing.
    The 05 brakes are a real issue.

    There were talks of a class action law suit for this but I can no longer find the threads on it, or any other info.
    I have no idea how it turned out, or if it ever went anywhere.
  • cornhliocornhlio Member Posts: 5
    I lease a g35 back in July and just came up on 4k miles. I know they have 2 schedules for required maintenance and I could argue that I belong in the schedule 2 (less frequent) program.

    Does Infiniti care which one you choose? Does it affect your lease/warranty if you chose to do schedule 2 instead of schedule 1?

    I just want to make sure I don't get screwed at the end of my lease at 30k miles so if anybody has info on this I would appreciate it.

    Thanks
  • wolewole Member Posts: 2
    LA would be preferred - any help would be appreciated.
  • pfreak76pfreak76 Member Posts: 17
    Guys - I drove the car into the dealers for a good old battery change and the dealer did an inspection to reveal that the compression rod bushings are worn. Apparently they cost $335 and $130 to mount back and align the tires.

    I have never heard of this before. Is this a real problem? What's the impact of such a problem and do I need to spend all this money at the dealer or do I have a more economical solution available to me that I dont know of? I just replaced my tires btw...
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Probably, depending on how many miles are on your car.

    These are heavy rubber bushings through which a rod is threaded. Like all rubber suspension parts, the rubber deteriorates and wears over time, eventually developing cracks or tearing completely.
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