Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

Mr_Shiftright · March 2001

Hmmm....you really think a supercharger is "simpler" than a turbo for a little car like a Miata? Explain yourself, man. Seems to me a Supe has more $$$ involved, more weight, pulleys, belts, noise, etc....turbos are "free" if you know what I mean. Okay, there is the "plumbing" issue, but what could be simpler than a little turbine in the exhaust flow and a coupla pipes? I don't think it's any accident that many of the "low end" manufacturers have gone turbo rather than Supercharging. Cost must be a factor here, and ease of manufacture I would think. SC cars that come to mind are BIG or expensive.

freddy_k · March 2001

That link I posted was the silly Z3 package. If you copy the linke and paste it into the address field it should work.

Just my opinion on nitrous - it's cheap, easy, and should only be considered for track use. The sudden burst of power can be down right dangerous for the untrained, and it is hard on the car, so expect problems to arise.

I also just wanted to say that this is by far the best discussion on the board, and the care- free attitude of Miata drivers certainly increases my urge to get one. I've found that not many people understand the car. Most people I speak to wonder why I don't get a Celica or Prelude or something. One guy I know is convinced I might as well get a neon! I find that a unique quality about the car - it's truly a car for the driver!

As for wheels, it really depends on the driver. Many, more I would say, people just drive it because it's a fun affordable convertable, and not so much for performance. In those cases, a heavier wheel would barely be noticed, and spending a ton of money on a super lightweight wheel with performance tires could really just be a waste. If you're thinking of bigger wheels it's important to think about what kind of driver you are before dumping too much money into it. To spend thousands on 15 lb wheels (or whatever) would mean (to me) that you take it on the track. Personally, I plan to have an extra set of tires/rims for autox, and for the street I intend to keep the car pure.

dgraves1 · March 2001

Shifty - the complexity in turbos comes from the control systems. A turbo that produces reasonable boost at low to mid rpm will turn your engine to shrapnel at redline, so you need a wastegate system to keep it under control. If you want to keep your turbo spun up during shifts, you need a blow off valve. I agree with Dennis, superchargers are much simpler systems. And I disagree that SC are limited to high end vehicles. Was the MR2 SC a high end vehicle? How about a Nissan Pathfinder? I'm sure there are more examples but I can't think of anymore at this late hour.

denniswade · March 2001

and the FD packages that TRD offers for the Cmry and 4Runner are high-efficiency superchargers. They're extremely compact, operate at close to 90% efficiency (previously unheard of in a supercharger), and cost about $3k installed. Now that's what I call simple.

The RELATIVELY simple, low-boost, low-cost turbo that Toysport engineered for the Corolla/Celica/MR2 includes a new exhaust header, intake piping, wastegate and blowoff valve, plus an APEXi fuel management system -- all of which are unnecessary with a supercharger. Not to mention the fact that, because you don't have to worry about the extra piping, it's a lot more compact and easier to install. You can also increase boost by means of a simple pulley change.

Advantages of a turbocharger are: tuneability, even greater efficiency, and, with a boost controller, the ability to increase boost at will, anytime you want.

As for nitrous, it's safe if you don't get crasy (sorry about the 's' -- I lost the other letter on my keyboard....think I spilled some water on it) with it. A 50 or even 75 shot is pretty safe, and will give you an extra 30-40 hp for those times you really need it. I don't care for it because it's such a narrowly focused application (I like to drive with my foot down ALL the time).

Mr_Shiftright · March 2001

Okay, thanks for the SC/turbo comparison. I guess maybe I don't think of many of those turbo system items as "complex" in the technical sense, but perhaps the system is "complex" in the number of pieces required to make it all work.. I can buy that view of things.

Would you say an SC is a more or less complicated piece of machinery, next to your typical turbo unit? (just the two units compared, not the systems they attached to or utilize).

And what about rebuild expense? Could I get one of those TRDs rebuilt for say around $400? That's what the Saab turbo used to cost me (me doing the labor of course, early and often!).

denniswade · March 2001

Dunno what a replacement TRD air pump (SC) would cost, but I can find out.

I'll e-mail that technical paper to you -- thnk you'll enjoy it. Also, if you haven't already, check out Overboost.com -- forced induction is their specialty.

sayhey9244 · March 2001

I need a shoulder to cry on and a good place to vent! Some $*%&^^#%#% apparently stuck a pen knife through my 99's roof. The slit, about one inch in length, is almost parallel to the top of the passenger side window, and about 3 inches in back of the window.

Does anyone have some experience dealing with a problem like this? I was wondering if duct tape on the interior side would help?

Thank you. I need consolation. And my baby has only 8600 miles on it, too! Waaaaaah!!!

Mr_Shiftright · March 2001

Sweet....you can just feel the love out there, can't you?

Not much you can do if you want it to look like new again, except pull the top off and either sew it (not so attractive) or replace it. This is probably covered under your insurance (for a replacement top), but still there's probably the deductible.

There are stick=on canvas patches that are fairly sturdy and watertight (visit your local camping store) but it may not look so great.

cpearson1 · March 2001

". I'm thinking of cutting the window out and doing a "home" job ... ie: cut out my own plastic and glue it on with rubber or fabric glue."
This is feasible. I used the plastic from an inside storm window kit and a hot melt glue gun. I left the outside of the old window and glued to that. Silicone rubber would probably be better than the glue gun. It lasted until I sold the MG but it was 10 years ago so I don't remember how long that was. Try it if you're short on funds. Even if you don't like the results it won't cost much to find out.

ateixeira · March 2001

I though most people already knew the Miata wasn't making 155hp. The new one wasn't any faster, in fact it had trouble matching the figures for the earlier models.

Seems like no big deal to me. I'd take the warranty and the $500 right to the bank. Nothing on the car you bought has changed, right?

Now that I think about it, I wish I had an offer like that on all my cars!

Mod Squad: I love it. The big caveat is that your insurance company may not cover you. Mine actually asked if there were any "racing modifications" on mine before they priced my insurance.

-juice

magik_i · March 2001

I don't know if any of you read Turbo Magazine or not, but you should check out the March2001 issue just for the article on a 500+whp Miata! It's the tightest looking car you have ever seen and it can do the quarter mile in under 11 seconds!!! I can't even imagine trying to keep that thing on the road, but wouldn't it be fun to try? At those speeds you would be giving Bullet Bikes a run for their money! The article is: Rampage Racing's 532 whp 13B-REW-powered Mazda. Go check it out. BTW, every time I get in my Miata I fall in love with it all over again ... I just wish I would have gotten one a lot sooner. Has anyone upgraded their brakes? What about an aftermarket Torsen limited-slip diff? Also, has anyone done a 360 in their Miata? I mean one where you are going 30mph and hit the emergency brake type thing do a 360 and keep going? I had my 14" stock tires for two days (the tire company had already bought them from me but couldn't get my new rims for two days) so I decided to rip 'em up before I got my 16"s and that car can do some pretty cool stuff with the E-brake. Now that I have my 16s on I don't want to beat it so bad ... plus I love it too much to hurt it. For those 2 days I had a blast, though.

texsubaru · March 2001

Just a story written by a friend of mine about her Miata, which I rode in a time or two before it's untimely demise. Just thought it was something a lot of y'all might relate to: http://www.austin360.com/statesman/editions/thursday/life_entertainment_5.html.

vida27 · March 2001

I highly recommend that you don't do those mod to your poor Miata. I would be shocked if you got that much horsepower out of the mod and you will lose torque to boot. There is really no reason to do it. Just my opinion.

ateixeira · March 2001

Using the hand brake is cheating. Getting her to oversteer with only the throttle is a lot more rewarding to me.

-juice

blake7 · March 2001

My 1995 Miata MX-5 has only 29K miles. It shifted smoothly up until two months ago, when I started noticing that I had to exert some pressure to move the shift into second gear (from 1st and neutral), mainly for the first 20 minutes or so after I started the engine, but even afterwards, and consistently. I've been to the dealer repair shop three times. Each time I'm told that there's nothing wrong with the gear shift or the transmission. I was even told that a little bit of forcing won't hurt the car, but none of this is particularly reassuring, and no one seems to be able to explain to me why I'm still having the problem. I've had friends drive the car, and they confirm that the shifting isn't right. The gears never grind, but I still have to use force. Has anyone else experience such problems? I'd appreciate any advice or comments. --Blake7

denniswade · March 2001

a problem with the shift linkage -- not the transmission.

Take it to an independant and see what they say. You can then decide whether to have them fix it and try to get Mazda to reimburse you for it, or take it back to the dealer and show them what nimcompoops they are.

MarkinAtlanta · April 2001

I printed it out, 29 pages...

http://www.sandiegomiataclub.org/SDMC/Miata.html

blake7 · April 2001

Thanks so much for your help and your suggestion, which I will act upon promptly.

Take care,
Blake7

ateixeira · April 2001

I'd go ahead and change the tranmission gear oil and the turret oil, too. I bet the turret oil is empty, and the trans oil is original (i.e. old).

I did both of these myself, and then the rear diffy fluid as well. There are complete instructions with photos here:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=117212&a=1484919&p=15038845

He used Redline oils, which you have to order. I used Mobil 1 gear oil, 75w90 weight, for all three (gearbox, turret, diffy) and I've noticed a slight improvement at startup.

-juice

shaw10 · April 2001

Ateixeir...great job on the step by step shots...how about one of the actual filter removal...do you need a wrench? (my Accord's filter is in such a position where one can't do the needed 1 1/2 turns by hand)
Shaw

ateixeira · April 2001

Thanks, but Hakuna gets the credit for those. I have photos for an E-code headlight conversion (90-94) and some other stuff, but I used his for the oils.

I remove the oil filter by hand. I use my left hand and reach in from the top. Thick arms may not fit, though. I tight filter makes this tough.

-juice

ace10 · April 2001

on a 1.8l is a little easier. stick your left hand/arm behind the alternator bracket and grab oil filter. the first time i did it, i found that it was locked on way too much torque. a HUGE help is to use a rubber dishwashing glove. they have nittle nubs on the fingers/thumb and the rubber is less likely to slip on the smooth filter.

by the way, all lubricants break down over time.

just an idea.

ace

ateixeira · April 2001

Good tip. I've used sand paper to get better grip.

Those gear oils are 6+ years old now.

-juice

shaw10 · April 2001

I mis-typed up above...meant to ask about filter install - not removal - is there enough hand grip room to tighten it by hand?...(that's where I need to use a filter wrench on my Accord since there isn't enough arm / hand room to grip well enough without a wrench)...P.S. Thanks, Hakuna!
Shaw

ateixeira · April 2001

Yes, I have managed to tighten it by hand, without any tools. In fact, the use of tools can lead to overtightening.

Wear long sleeves since the engine should be hot (in order to drain the oil completely).

-juice

ace10 · April 2001

don't use a tool to tighten. i'm yet to see an oil filter which called for more turns than i could provide with my hand. be sure to wipe the gasket with a film of clean motor oil. he long rubber gloves will not only give you a better grip but they will also protect your hands from the oil that will dump out of the filter when you unscrew it from the block.

ace

yorba · April 2001

I didn't know where else to post this question but can golf clubs fit in the Miata or MR2?

ateixeira · April 2001

Sure - in the passenger's seat!

I doubt mine would fit in the trunk of my Miata, enough that I haven't even tried it.

I'm sure they will not fit in an MR2, which manages to make the Miata look practical.

-juice

ace10 · April 2001

i can fit one set of clubs in the trunk of my M1 miata. i have regular length woods, but my bag is hard framed and is longer than most. it just fits in there. a tour bag has no chance. the trunk is a pretty decent shape for carrying stuff. it just isn't too deep. the trunk lid will dent if you try to force it down on something. i learned that on my first miata ('93).

ace

ateixeira · April 2001

I'll have to try it. Though I never golf alone and I doubt two bags would fit!

-juice

dgraves1 · April 2001

Yes, be careful closing those trunk lids. I think every used Miata I looked at had a couple of outward pointing dings in the trunk lid.
Yorba - If you are talking about the MR2 Spyder, I think the passenger seat is obviously your only solution. But the second generation MR2 trunk would easily swallow two reasonably sized golf bags.

ateixeira · April 2001

True but they are very small, and intrude far less than in most cars.

Keep in mind these are sports cars, folks.

-juice

freddy_k · April 2001

Wow, are Miata's ever cheap right now in Toronto! Could it be because of this horsepower thing? Anyway, if you're in Canada and looking, check it out.

corduroygt · April 2001

My Friend just left the country for a family emergency and left me the keys to his 99 Miata. He asked me to fix it up as he is kind of an idiot and does not take care of his car. The problems are 1. The car won't start and the alarm will sound when I try to start it, (he says the battery needs to be replaced) so we can only push start it. I started and ran the car (not just idling but driving) for an hour and the battery still did not start the car.
2. The left taillamp plastic cover is broken, I need to get that replaced, any estimates on how much on JUST the plastic cover.
3. Driver's side mirror is cracked. The mirror itself and the outside plastic is cracked. The power mirror motor seams to be fine. Do I need a full replacement or can I just get the mirror and the outside plastic separately and cheaply? Any estimates?
Thank you

ateixeira · April 2001

I would not run the car if the battery is dead. The alternator will try to charge it, and it could be dangerous. Get a new battery. Westco batteries are $80 at any of several vendors (try Miata.net and visit the vendors page).

You can find a salvage yard that specializes in Mazdas, or just hit the local junk yard for that lens you want. I found a latch for my center console at the junk yard - piece of cake.

Again, for #3 I would hit the junk yard. It will cost you next to nothing and you can get only the things you need.

-juice

bigbozer · April 2001

The Miata has a special battery. It cannot be recharged if it has become dead. However, if it is just low it will re-charge beautifully. I still have the original battery on my 1994 Miata. Once I forgot the dim lights on (despite warning buzzer). When I returned the battery would not start the car. I pushed started it. The next morning the car started just fine and has done so ever since. I have left the car un-started for up to 15 days with the battery still holding the current. I would not advise any Miata owner to let the car sit for more than that without hooking the battery to a trickle charger. A friend of mine let hers' sit for a month and it went dead. She got a new one from WestCo. You can get one also from a MAZDA dealer.

A person who does not take good care of his sports car does not deserve to own it.

bigbozer · April 2001

I recently purchased a set of four new Toyo Proxes TS-1 tires for $450 on the road incl. balancing and mounting for my 1994 Miata. The handling has improved tremendously! I can take corners with a recommended speed (yellow sign boards) of 35 MPH at almost 70MPH without any problems and complete confidence. The grip is the same - whether driving on wet or dry roads! Of course the Toyos cost twice as much, but I wanted the best for my Miata. If you are going to do a lot of twisty roads driving at high speeds you had better have the best gripping tires! Cheaper or tires with a lesser grip can land you in a difficult situation at the wrong time on a curve.

davidb72 · April 2001

The review on Miata.Net recommends the Westco battery. It seems that the original was made by Panasonic, but Mazda dealers will sell you a replacement that is a wet cell and not a gel cell. This is important because of the location of the battery and the poor venting it provides. Good luck.

ace10 · April 2001

the '99 with the almost dead battery, may have one of the "new" mazda lead acid batteries insted of the good "old" gel batteries. do not replace with a mazda battery, as they only stock these dangerous wet acid batteries. westco is the way to go. $75 to $80 shipped to your soor in three days. go to miata.net.

i'll second the suggetsion for the junkyard. find the biggest one in your area or find one that specializes in imports. you'll probably have to do a little searching. there's also a used wholesaler/retailer on the web for mazda's. they're on maiata.net too. do not go to the dealer for these body parts. you will be shocked by the prices. i would guess $80 to $100 for the rear lense and they probably won't part out the mirror, so figure $300 to $400.

while you're at it get the oil changes and rotate the tires. if your firned is that much of a bonehead, then the miata probably needs it.

one question, though. you say the alarm goes off??? the battery can't be completely dead, but probably close enough to warrant a new one. and one more... who gets an alrm put in without an ignition kill feature?? you shouldn't be able to start the car with the alarm going off. i'd upgrade.

my opinions.

ace

ateixeira · April 2001

Bigbozer: what size are those Toyos?

-juice

bigbozer · April 2001

The Toyos are 195/55/14.

ateixeira · April 2001

Hmm, those would fit on my rims...

I have a lot of tread left on the current ones, but it never hurts to start researching early.

-juice

markhaden · April 2001

In the market for a fun vehicle - got the family sedan already. Anyone think a guy 6'2" can do a Miata?

ateixeira · April 2001

Depends on how long your legs are. I'm 6' even, about 210 lbs, and my 30" inseam is a very tight fit. If you have long legs, you may not be happy for long.

The best way to tell is to try it out. Maybe even test drive a used one for at least 15 minutes, and see if you can stay comfy.

I'm such a tight fit that I take my wallet out of my back pocket, and can't wear boots! Small shoes are a must for me!

-juice

MarkinAtlanta · April 2001

I don't typically make product recommendations, but yesterday I used the Meguiars' #17 cleaner, then Meguairs #10 polish on the vinyl back window (for 90-97). This stuff seems to have removed most of the fine scratches and did a great job in removing a light blurry haze, a transparent window - what a concept. You guys with the glass windows, consider yourself lucky!

wdrauch · April 2001

.... on a '01 Miata. I'm looking at this as a second vehicle, so I don't want a bunch of extras. I'm thinking of a base model, 5-speed, and suspension package. Does anyone know if an upgraded chip will be offered later to get back to 155hp? Any advice would be appreciated.

ace10 · April 2001

put the $17K or $18 for a 2001 base model, and save $5K to $9 and get a cherry '94 to '97. for $10K you could find a very nice '95 with some extras, including limited slip diff and a/c, stereo etc...

the first generation miatas top out at about $15K for a loaded '97 M ed. or STO.

as for a chip.... highly unlikely. i don't think that a single one has ever been produced, even for the first gen. miatas that does anything but screw up the fuel delivery and mess with the power curves.

as an added feature to picking up an earlier one, you will have access to many more power modifications.

the miata is a very dependable car, with very sound mechanical systems. the used market is an excellent alternative to paying for a new one, especially when it will be used only as a second car.

my opinions.

ace

skase · April 2001

He fredy_I,

I just purchased about a month ago used '96 with 37000 kilometers for 14250$CAN. Base model no options. Never winter driven. So far I love it.
I bought it in the Toronto area.

davidb72 · April 2001

Last September I bought a 1997 M Miata with 15,000 miles on it for around $16,000. The only problem I've had so far is that I haven't had a chance to drive it enough. Other than that it's great. I chose used because I prefer the M1 body style (flip up lights). But to each his own, you can't go wrong either way...

skase · April 2001

Hello all,

My trunk wont open, all of a sudden, and its not a frozen lock. I did load up the trunk recently and forced it just slightly, and now this. Any ideas or suggestions if I can get inside any other way?

DESPERATE

Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

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