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Comments
I have the luxury that I don't "need" a new car. I would "like" to have one by December, so I will wait patiently for a good deal (new or used).
OFFER 1:
Cash down $ 1179
Purchase price: 42,985
monthly pmt: 662
OFFER 2:
cash down $2075
purchase price: 43,700
monthly pmt: 640.
How does this make any sense? I've always read negotiate purchase price, but the one with the lower purchase price is the higher monthly pmt. I am assuming that offer 1 is rolling some of the upfront costs into the lease payment. That is the only thing that is logical. Any insights out there? Which is the better offer or are they essentially the same?
MDX Tech was the best choice I made based on resell value and all other upgrades you get with it.
Good Luck!
I am trying to buy MDX With Technology Package and Entertainment Packages. Which one your trying to buy? Please let me know, Which model you got for $38991? I would like to know more on this.
Thoughts? How would you rate this offer?
Can you provide me with the dealer's info?
I am looking to buy this weekend.
Also, anyone have any luck negotiating the "doc fee"?
Performance Acura in Chapel Hill...ask for Phil.
With that said the offer should be $42,819 on the MDX with Tech and tell them that offer does not include the overpriced extras because you don't want them. Give them your phone number and tell them if they want to sell it before they close business for the end of the month to just give you a call. If the salesman doesn't seem interested fax a copy of your offer to the sales manager. It's end of month quota time. You can then expect to add doc fee and lic and reg. to that price plus sales tax. The dealer is still making a good chunk of money at this price and would be a fool to turn you down unless they only have a couple in stock and have a bunch of people looking for them.
In my 2008 Acura after 12000 miles/18 months I have changed oil only twice
Cost $70.00 per oil change
I am being qouted:
$47,444 (Tech / Entertainment)
$44,488 (Tech)
I am about to look out of state to see if I can get a price remotely close to what others seem to be paying. Anyone else from Colorado here looking at an MDX? If so, what are the prices that you are being qouted?
I wouldn't buy at that price on a Tech.
This car seems perfect for our needs, the only issue we might have is getting it in and out of a standard 8ft wide garage! Mirror to mirror it measure 89", and with a garage door opening of about 95", this seems very tight, especially backing up. Anyone out there have any issues with this?
We plan to get the side moulding trim, roof rack and crossbars, and the cargo box. Dealer told us to not buy the rooftop cargo box from him, that Thule makes the Acura boxes, and they are much cheaper on the web. Hopefully good info!
Thanks.
The MDX was the choice for us with competition against the ML 350, GL320 and 450 (used), XC90, and the BMW 535Xi wagon. Reviews on the MDX were very high and the maintenance cost was very reasonable especially when compared to our Audi. We were replacing a 2004 Audi allroad wagon as the family hauler.
Hope this helps
Here is an out the door price on 2010 MDX tech/ent from them: 45331
A little cheaper than most of the other quotes I got from LA area dealers, but they are a pain to deal with - always trying to put extras on the bill.
Also, I want to do a test drive, but I don't want them to try to get me to negotiate at the dealership. How do I avoid that from happening? Do I let them take down my name while I'm there for the test drive? I figure they'll remember me if I go in for a test drive and then a few days later start e-mail negotiations. I wonder if having met them first will affect the deal I get or not??
Personally, I'd do a test drive at a dealer I wasn't interested in - perhaps the one that gives you the worst quote - I'm sure dealers hate that, but it isn't like they always treat their customers fairly, either. Whether test driving and then emailing would affect the quote you got probably varies from dealer to dealer.
Nothing stops them from trying to change the deal when you get there, although having a printed email with a specific number helps - then I'd just watch for "extras" like protection packages and the like (just say no) getting added to the bill. To be fair, some dealers are worse than others - the TL leasing experience I had in 2007 (at Metro Acura, for anyone in the Los Angeles area) was great - all the terms worked out over email and on the phone, no funny stuff when I came to get the car, no upselling. Still the most painless experience I've had buying/leasing a new car. I've also had the opposite experience at other dealers, where the bait and switch was in full effect. My best piece of advice: if you think you have a deal, and then they change it when you get there, walk out.
I first started talking to them about buying a tech mdx in april 09 - they were offering around 38.5k OTD at the time. Ended up waiting and buying a base closer to my home this past fall, but even then, they were willing to sell a base MDX for 34.3 + ttl without much negotiation. And it was the same story for Pohanka.
I have found most dealers will sell at invoice. I give them my price after my research on the web and then if they say no I tell them that's my final offer and if they want to sell the car to give me a call. I am always ready to buy when I contact them. I never purchase extras during my negotiations on the car. I wait until after I take delivery and then ask how much the stuff I want will be. I then leave and check on the internet to make sure its a good price.
I was offered:
36 month lease, 10k / yr.
$2,000 down
$719 per month
Is this a good deal? Anyone else lease this car with these specs recently?
The out of pocket would be first month payment, lic and doc fee. I would guess those to be $1165.00. Seems you are paying a little more than you should.
I keep reading about cap costs and money factors......so my question is why would the cap cost be different on mdx's assuming they are the same year, same car specs (just different location in the USA).
I guess what i'm trying to say is: doesn't acura make the car for "X " amount of dollars and then ship it all over the place. If my dealer says this car sells for $45,000 and your dealer says this car sells for $50,000....it's it all bull? they get it for price "X" from acura and then they make their own market. right?
why can someone in Detroit lease this car for $650 per month and i lease it for $700 per month ? it's the same car, just a different location in the USA.
The money factor in a lease is the interest rate being charged on the money. The rate through the end of February was a money factor of .00145 or .00145 x 2400 = 3.48% for Honda/Acura preferred rate. This money factor is very important in the price of a lease payment. Then the residual value is the next thing you need to know on a lease. I think the current Residual on the Tech Entertainment is 54% but I could be wrong on this by about a point. So you take the sticker price of $48,615 X .54 = $26252.10 the value they say the car will be worth at the end of the lease. So lets put this deal together.
Sticker Price $48,615.00 Your offer $44,541 plus $595 Honda lease fee = $45,136
Your offer $44,541.00
Honda lease fee $ 595.00
Total $45,136.00
Residual - $26,252.10
Difference $18,883.90 Divided by 36 months = $524.55
Sticker Price $48,615.00
Residual + $26,252.10
Total $72,877.10 X Money Factor .00145 = $105.67
Add Your amount of depreciation to the money factor and you get your before tax payment of $630.22. before sales tax.
New Jersey sales tax. is 6% based on the depreciation amount so that would be
6.0 X $18,883.90 = $1,133.03 divided by 36 = $31.47 per month
So your payment would be $661.69 with no additional money out of pocket except for first months payment, Lic and Reg and any Document fee. My guess would be that the most you should pay at leae signing for this payment would be $1000.00.
So your deal looks a little strong at the payment and amount down at lease signing.