Toyota Sienna Care & Maintenance

jtlanejr · March 2003

The total capacity of the differential and transmission is 8 quarts. The drain/refill capacity is 3.7 quarts. They share the same sump, but, as you found out, you should also drain the few pints left in the differential after the transmission has been drained. I think you will also find that if you check your fluid now, it will still be dark since you only changed 50% of it. I drain/refill twice, then drive it for a week and then drain/refill again. This yields a 88% fluid change and a fresh red color of the fluid. I would also look at dropping the pan at some interval to clean the screen.

Luzer · March 2003

I think I understood #50.

To change the ATF in the tranny and the diff -

You only have to refill thru the tranny dipstick hole with about 3.7L. Yes or No.

32valveuser · March 2003

I have one more question. When you say the drain & fill is 3.7 this includs both the trans & diff. I think it does; I just want to be sure. I plan on keeping this car at least ten years. Also, the fluid was very dark almost black. The stick still shows dark.

jtlanejr · March 2003

The fluid is still black because you have only changed 50% of the fluid. You need to drain and fill the at least two more times (from my experience) before you get a good red color from the fluid. I buy the Walmart Super Tech brand that costs like $4.25 a gallon. I normally change it twice, and then drive it a week to let the fresh detergents to their thing - then I do an additional change (number 3.) This gives me best results.

jtlanejr · March 2003

Yes, 3.7 quarts is a drain and refill of both the transmission and differential. The total capacity is 8 quarts, but with the trans cooler and fluid in the torque converter, you only can drain 3.7 (I am guessing here....)

bthibodeau · March 2003

Ok. On my 2001LE I have successfully dropped the pan, cleaned it, the magnets and the screen. Then reinstalled the pan with a new gasket. All went great!
I wonder?? The screen is a little tuff to effectively clean. Would it be better to replace it next time?

The Big Question??? where is the Diff Drain plug?? I didnt do this, and after seeing the other notes now relize I have a incomplete transmission service.

There has got to be a way to change out all the fluid at once! Frustrating.
Guys thanks for all your help!

jtlanejr · March 2003

I don't know how to do a complete change without using a fluid replacement machine. Of course. defeats the purpose of doing your own maintenance. The differential plug is just "behind" the pan drain plug. It is vertical instead of being horizontal like the pan plug. It uses same 10mm allen head wrench like the trans plug. So if you are in the general area of the trans plug, just move a little towards the back of the van and you should see the diff plug.

You can get a pan gasket/filter kit for about $30. I just clean mine with parts cleaner, blow dry with my compressor, then clean again using ATF. My complete service is under $20 with 3 gallons of fluid and a pan gasket.

Good Luck

pjksr · March 2003

A while back, Ed M. posted his response to a call to Toyota USA, regarding drain/fill of ATF. According to them, to change the most fluid, keep the warmed engine running and in Park; draining ATF while the engine (and torque converter) are running, thus circulating out more fluid.

In my 2002, I got out about 5 quarts of ATF. But don't go by that figure--use your dipstick.

Other pts: The fill for both AT and differential is the AT dipstick tube (fill slowly). Check for fluid at the differential by not tightening that plug until new fluid is present. Torque on the plugs is 33 [ft-lbs]. 10-mm Allen wrench...

Warehouse clubs have cases of ATF at prices around $1.15/qt. You can use the extra quarts for your power steering fluid flush :-0

pjksr · March 2003

Does anyone know, offhand, the sizes of our brake bleeder valves, front and back? (These should be either 7 mm or 10 mm). It's still a bit cold to jack up my van here in Connecticut.

I'm planning on putting on 4 speedbleeder valves, to save work in the long run. ( www. speedbleeder.com ) They have no listing of the valve sizes...

Luzer · March 2003

Never saw this one before.
How DO you do a PS flush, and why?

pjksr · March 2003

Well, I sort of meant that as a joke. But if you are fanatical about changing fluids, you can change PS fluid too. There are discussions on Edmunds about PS fluid changes, notably comparing a "flush" to a drain and fill, similar to those of transmissions...

jtlanejr · March 2003

The brake bleeder valve is an 8mm on my 99 LE. As a note, I will remove the rear wheels the next time I flush my system - I think it will be easier to get to on the rear.

I have flushed my power steering pump. Put the wheels on jackstands and pull a little fluid out of the reservoir. Remove the top hose from the reservoir and use a 1/2 male hose barb to another 1/2 ID hose that goes to you waste bucket. Then, with the engine running, get some one to turn the wheel back and forth to full stop, while you add fresh fluid. Sooner or later the new fluid will make it out the return. You can also add a secion of the 1/2 ID tubing to the reservoir to prevent a mess....

As you can tell from my previous posts - I am a little anal about my maintenance....

Luzer · March 2003

Regarding "8mm on my 99 LE."

Is this an 8mm socket or an allen?
I'm going to try this when the snow melts.

55,000 miles - I think I should look at my front pads now.

jtlanejr · March 2003

The previous poster asked the size of the brake bleeder valve a the front and rear brake. It is an 8mm bolt with a hole in it to allow the brake fluid to flow. You need a small section of tubing also (sorry can't remember the size....)

jtlanejr · March 2003

The correct torque spec for the transmission pan is 70 Inch/lbs. I had stated ft./lbs. in the previous post.

32valveuser · April 2003

After reading a recent article I have found out that some engine may have individual EGR passageways leading to each cylinder. (YUCK) Does anyone no how many are on the 2001 3.0L engine?

lsac · April 2003

I was buying a transaxle filter kit and got following response:

DEAR ????,
TOYOTA DOESN'T USE A TRANSMISSION FILTER LIKE CHEVY AND FORD DOES. OURS IS MORE LIKE THE SCREEN ON A WINDOW. IT IS METAL AND CAN BE CLEANED.
FOR TRANS SERVICES WE SIMPLY REPLACE THE FLUID.

jtlanejr · April 2003

Yes, the Sienna transmission has a screen that can be cleaned. You can purchase this in a kit from the local car parts store or from the dealer. It seems like it was quite expensive. I just was mine in brake parts cleaner, blow dry, and then wash again with ATF.

As for "simply replacing the fluid" I suggest you find a different repair shop as they fail to understand why the screen is there and that it does in fact need to be flushed/cleaned.

32valveuser · April 2003

Well we are coming up on the 30,000 mile mark. I think it's time for new fluid. I was thinking of just doing the drain and fill. Also, do I need to drain the two block valves. I never had a car with these as far as I knew. Most of the time I warm up the car put the heater on high. Then turn off the car, remove cap,drain by disconnecting lower hose. After fluid gushes out I reattach add fluid,start car with cap off and let air escape then slowly add fluid till full put cap on. Test drive turn off heat turn off car. Do I need to do more than this to the cooling system. What are others doing, any tips or pointers. This is a realy nice car and I trust myself to do a good job before a shop. Any comments out there.

jtlanejr · April 2003

First a note - you want to use a non-silicate coolant (Toyota Red or Prestone long-life (orange) or the like). I understand that a regular silicate based coolant will eat the seals in the water pump.

On the lower left corner (from memory) there is a drain at the radiator. I also have rear air, so I also pulled the hose just under the passenger side seat to allow the old fluid to drain at that point too. I don't know of any other tricks, as your described method is very similar to my own.

32valveuser · April 2003

Message 72
The hose you speak of for the rear air ware is that located? Under the seat on the outside so you would need to crawl under the car OR on the inside under the seat. Also, did you do anything with the block drains. Thanks for any input.

jtlanejr · April 2003

The hoses for the rear are on the outside of the van, just under and behind the passenger seat. There is a shield that you have to remove to get to the hose clamps. I don't think there are block drains on this engine, but I am not sure on this one.

imo · May 2003

I tried to pull out the rear brake drum on the Sienna but it would't budge.
I had no trouble with my Accord; the drum was pulled off easily
Has anyone done this already, please give me advice. Thanks.

paulychin · May 2003

Hello everyone,

Don't you wish there was a Haynes repair manual for the Sienna's?
These manuals have been an excellent resource for troubleshooting
and repairing my other cars, but Haynes has yet to publish one for
the Sienna. Now there's a new model (2004), and the first Sienna's
are almost out of their 5 year warrenty, perhaps there is a market
for the manuals?

I wrote to Haynes when I first acquired our '99 CE van in 2001 (it
had 310,000 km on it!!!) and asked if they were planning to publish
one. They wrote back and said "not yet", but keep checking our web-
site.

Why don't we all write to Haynes and ask them about the repair
manual...maybe they'll realise there's a market for it? Write to
info@ haynes.com

Or visit:

http://haynes.com/na.html and click on Ask Haynes about our manuals

Thanks,
Paul

'99 Sienna CE
323,000 km / 202,000 Mi (no problems)

jtlanejr · May 2003

Did you release the parking brake?

impact01 · May 2003

Why do you want Haynes to publish one when you can get the factory service manual from Toyota for your model year?. Of course Haynes is $20 compared to about $100 for any factory service manual, but if you regularly work on your car the factory manual is worth every penny. Just MHO.

imo · May 2003

I finally found the answer to my own question
after searching edmund's townhall.
In my case, the rear drums were stuck to the center hubs because of rust, not because the shoes were tight against the drums or the rear parking brakes were engaged.
To remove the rear drum, I threaded a bolt (don't know the size) into one of the 2 holes on the face of the drum.
The bolt forced the hub to separate from the drum and in the process broke the bond caused by rust.
I turned the bolt a little on one hole until I saw some slight separation, then switch the bolt the other hole and repeated that until I could remove the drums.

Ideally, it would be faster if I had to 2 bolts.

lsac · June 2003

I fixed sliding door creak by applying thin film of grease (cream/maybe vaseline) to the body of both upper and lower door stopper/electrical junction. No more noise. Easy fix. Noise was killing me.

lsac · June 2003

The way to check ATF level is, drive the car until warm, park on level ground and pull out dip stick with the car at idle. However, everytime I do that, half the stick would have ATF all over it (yes, i've wiped, reinsert, and then pull out again), which tells me nothing about the actual ATF level....... and I am pretty sure the tranny was not overfilled, because I only added 3.7qt ATF.

jlewelling1 · June 2003

Went in for service for my 2001 Sienna (2 years old and 17,500 miles). They suggested a "routine fuel injector cleaning service." I said no because the car is running great and 17K is too early.

But my question is, when is a routine fuel injector cleaning call for? Is it a matter of time or miles or should I wait until the engine is showing some performance problem?

buckeyedon · June 2003

Sure, I've heard the same thing from Toyota dealer service dept. several times on my Avalon..."the fuel injectors look dirty, we recommend cleaning for $59.95..."

The simple test is to closely calculate MPG. If it stays high and efficient, no need for cleaning. Or...occasionally put premium tankful in gas tank....or...occasionally get Chevron fuel injector cleaner and place in almost empty gas tank. IMHO, this injector cleaning thaaang is one more profit task for dealers...it joins "oil flushes, tranny flushes and such" as pretty much cosmetic money makers for dealers.

jlewelling1 · June 2003

The last time I checked my MPG was a couple of months ago when I did a quick trip from my current locale (DC) to the land of my birth, the Great Smoky Mountains.

I got 26 MPG on that trip, so probably my fuel injectors are fine.

By the way, my dealer wanted $129.95 for the fuel injector cleaning.

Thanks for the advice.

lunarmist · June 2003

While rotating the tires on my 2002 Sienna Symphony with 13000 miles I noticed that both front struts have heavy signs of rust at the top of the struts where the piston enters it. Has anyone also noticed this symptom?

The vehicle still rides like new !!

jtlanejr · August 2003

Anyone have an idea on how to get some life back into the appearance of the bumpers on my Sienna LE? Silicone works for a while, and then they go back to looking poorly.

dtagliaf · August 2003

Hello, My back door handle has suddenly broken. The door is closed, the locking mechanism seems to function, but I think there's a piece missing or something so that it doesn't have anything to pull against when you try to open it. Has anyone else ever had this happen? I bought this van used, but have had no other problems so far. Do I have to take it to a Toyota specialist or do you think any mechanic can fix it? Thanks. Dana

jtlanejr · August 2003

This happened to my 99 also. The part was around $65 from the dealer and it took around 30 minutes change. I would guess the dealer would get $65 for the part and a hour labor or so. If you are halfway mechanically inclined, then you should be able to do it yourself. If not, then I would take it to the dealer.

jeffk14 · September 2003

I also have to replace the tailgate handle. I have the part. I haven't taken the inside panel off before. Where do I start? If anyone has instructions, I'd appreciate the information.

jtlanejr · September 2003

You take the tailgate panel off and then you have access to the handle. If I remember correctly, there was a bolt or two at the tailgate handle that is inside the van. There are also about a dozen plastic push pins that hold the panel on.
You also have to pull the small panels that are on the left and right of the rear window to reveal additional bolts (from memory.)

I would say that if it is not obvious how to remove this panel, then you should get a professional to do the work for you. Not trying to be a smart-[non-permissible content removed], but this is pretty simple for a backyard mechanic. Take a look at it and if you have further questions, I can look at my van this evening (my wife drives it) and give you a little better info.

Good Luck

jeffk14 · September 2003

Thanks. The panel came off as you said. Even easier - no bolts at the rear window side panels.

jtlanejr · September 2003

Glad you didn't have any trouble with it. How long do you think the new handle will last?

bostonoriole · September 2003

My mechanic told me I didn't need to change the coolant in my 2002 Sienna at 24 months and 19K miles. He said that the Toyota coolant is "The best in the business", and I could wait another two years.

Is this a good idea if I plan to keep the Sienna ten years?

behrend1 · September 2003

Hello all!
I'm just wondering if anyone knows where the fuel filter is mounted on the 2001 Toyota Sienna. Also, is there is a scheduled interval for changing it out? My van has almost 40K and I think it is about time.

jtlanejr · September 2003

The fuel filter is located below the air cleaner box. I change mine every 30,000 miles. I don't know what the scheduled service is, but I would guess it is recommended at 60,000. Seems like the part war around $30.

bostonoriole · September 2003

My 2002 Sienna service schedule doesn't mention a fuel filter change. I'm assuming that means doesn't need to be changed until 120K or so.

Does anyone have an idea why they don't list the fuel filter in the scheduled maintenance?

jtlanejr · September 2003

Since a clogged fuel filter is the major cause of poor performance and a stalling van, a $35 maintenance part is cheap insurance that my family won't get stranded somewhere due to a clogged fuel filter.

I suggest you change it at a minimum 60,000 miles.

buckeyedon · September 2003

'91 Previa, 185K miles, replaced ffilter once at 30K. Was told by toyota mechanic not to change again unless mileage drops. Mileage hasn't changed for years, so ffilter has 155K on it. Yikes.

Other than that, honestly, I pamper the van!

xgai · October 2003

I purchased my 2004 Sienna in June 2003. Last month Toyota mailed me a letter to recall the fuel tank in 2004 Sienna that was sold before July 2003. After replaced the fuel tank in a local Toyota car service place, I hear the slashing noise when stopping the car. I went back to the car service, the same dealer where I purchased my 2004 Sienna. The technician said that he couldn't hear the slashing noise at all. I know what I hear. I asked my co-work to test drive. He said that the sound definitely comes from the fuel tank. My daughter said this morning "I could hear the sound even I wasn't paying attention. Sounds like from hungry stomach. . Does anyone owns 2004 Sienna which had fuel tank replaced?
At this point, Im very stressed. The car dealer refuses to look into. The noise is bothersome and I have fear for our familys safety.
Please give me some advice. What should I do?

innovations2 · October 2003

It sounds similar to the problem that Honda has with their van. Honda has had a lot of complaints about the gas tank swishing sound because of the fold-down seat. I don't know if they ever did anything to fix it. Your 2004 could have a similar problem, but I don't think I've seen any other posts mentioning it.

xgai · October 2003

Innovations2, Thank you for your post! This is the first time that someone tells me that the fuel tank sounds exist in other car. I went back to the dealer today with my co-worker who knows more about cars than I do. This time, the technician actually agreed that there are slashing sounds. The technician suggested that I should track down when the slashing sounds is getting louder, e.g. full tank of gas, half tank of gas, or near empty. I will know when the I get near empty tank.

momofthree · October 2003

I had my fuel tank replaced with no problems sofar. You might want to try to find a different Toyota dealership to awknowledge your problem. I realize some dealerships are few and far between.
When the recall first came out, I read about it on these boards. I happened to be going in for my firt oil change to a dealership here in Northern Va. I asked the service guy if he could look up my vin and see if it was affected by the recall. He didn't seem that concerned about it, and when he came to get me when the oil change was done, he did not say a word. I assumed my vehicle was not affected.
However, when I got home I called the Toyota customer service #. The nice customer service rep did inform me that my van was part of the campaign. He understood my urgency to get it taken care of and emailed a different dealership per my request. That dealership's rep was very prompt in calling me to get me updated on when the replacement tank was in stock and could be installed.
I was very happy with the second dealership, even though it is smaller and older. I will never go back to the other dealership that is bigger and newer. Another lesson in "don't judge a book by its cover". (I bought my van out of state)

Toyota Sienna Care & Maintenance

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