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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • docvoxdocvox Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 A6 Quattro wagon and it appears there were mid-year changes. Both the C4 platform with engines AAH and AFC (2.8L V6 2v) and the C5 platform with engines AHA and ATQ (2.8L V6 5v) were sold as model year 1998. I wish to purchase the correct Bentley service CD and am trying to identify which platform version I have. My VIN starts with WAUJC84A8WN and my emissions sticker identifies the car as being in emissions group WADXV02. Can you help? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is a duplicate question that you have already asked in our Answers Department, and it has been answered!

    Your Answered Question

    Please feel free to come back here for ongoing discussions about the A6.

    Visiting Host
  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    I agree with your dialogue. Bought a new 2000 A6 2.7T for $42,400 +TTL in June, 2000. Fortuneately, and at the last minute, bought the extended warranty. This car would have literally bankrupted me if the extended warranty had NOT been purchased. Sold the car to a private party in October, 2006 w/ 99,750 miles for $11,500.00. A drop in value of about 73% over 6 years which in itself is probably about average for a luxury type automobile.The problems over these 6 years included:

    1.) steering wheel vibration above 60 mph.
    2.) steering wheel vibration during braking
    3.) leaking air conditioning
    4.) warped front brake rotors....replaced 4 times....problem not resolved
    5.) purchased my own drilled rotors....solved problem at my expense
    6.) noisy heater fan blower motor
    7.) climate control module failure
    8.) drivers/passenger front window infrastructure replacement
    9.) driver's manual door lock failure
    10.) central alarm system failure...windows going up/down uncontrolled
    11.) oxygen sensor failure
    12.) leaking valve cover gaskets
    13.) secondary fan cooling motor failure
    14.) turn signal module failure
    15.) vibration in dash
    16.)air bag light stuck on
    17.) turbo failure at 95,000 miles.....even with mobil1 changes every 5,000 miles.
    18.) leaking rear axle seals
    19.) front bumper almost torn off from curb stop due to manufacture defect
    20.)paint peeled off lower rocker panels almost from new.
    21.)upper/lower tie rod end failure at 60,000 miles.
    22.) poor remote key fob operational distance
    23.) poor fuel filler neck construction...fuel will gush out if on auto fill.

    These cars are really a nightmare......totally a lease car that you return in 3 years (under warranty) and never look back. I have never had 1 of these 23 items happen on my 98' TOY camry and don't expect that I will until deep into the 100,000 + miles.
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1999 Audi A6.My p.windows,sunroof and power locks suddenly stopped working and I get a constant buzzing as if the head lights were left on while I'm driving.Can anyone help me with this problem.Please

    Thanks
  • davreese0506davreese0506 Member Posts: 3
    I get into my car (1998 A6 Quattro) last Wednesday morning and without a problem arrived at school. After a long day, I rushed to my car and-Nothing. It didnt even attempt to turn over...the stater just clicked. I got the car towed and delivered to a shop. Being that it was 8 PM they were closed. Arriving in the morning the shop said it fired right up. They did a battery diagnostic check and it was fine. I picked it up and went along with my week like it was nothing. Today, exactly one week later i got into my car to go to school...no problem. I got in to leave and same exact problem!

    ANYONE EVER HEAR OF THIS?!?!?!? THANKS!

    Davidreese90@hotmail.com if anyone has any direct answers.
  • balaji3balaji3 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 1998 Audi A4. I bought this from a dealer an year ago. It has 76000 miles on it. A month back i saw a problem in which the engine rpm used to shoot really high and the car speed used to go low. when i used to stop and park the car for few mins, the car used to drive normally. this happend couple of times over a period of two months. So, i took it to the mechanic to have it checked and the mechanic told everything was fine. I drove the car and went onto to the freeway and within 5miles my car broke with a major jerk noise and the check engine, brake , abs symbol came up. I was never able to start the vehicle again. The mechanic checked the vehicle and again said everything was fine with the vehicle. Thereafter the car used to drive normally but sometimes used to stop with abs, brake symbol coming up. I took the car to the dealer and he made spend 750$ and replaced a shifter chip in the triptronic unit. This didnt fix the issue. I am still seeing the failure. Also, now i am seeing the airbag symbol flashing. I took it to the dealer again, and he says he doesnt know what the problem is. Has anyone had the same issue? Any suggestions to fix the issue would be greatly appreciated.

    email: balaji.vijendiran@yahoo.com
  • normanclayturenormanclayture Member Posts: 1
    Have you reached an understanding on a fair price to install two cv boots? I just received an estimate of $950.00. I would be interested in what you have learned.
    NormanClayture
  • kowenskowens Member Posts: 1
    I live in Framingham MA and have a 2001 A6 2.7T and have oil leaks in the turbos. The dealer tells me $2,000 to pull the engine and then another $4,000 - $6,000 to fix the problem depending upon what they find. Anyone know of a indy dealer around Framingham MA that I could bring it to? $6-$8 K sounds outrageous and I would like to get another opinion. Thanks for the help...
  • amazeramazer Member Posts: 2
    I'm a newbie to this forum, so I'm especially looking forward to your feedback. I did a search for this topic, but didn't find anything similar previously.

    Well, here's my problem. I bought my dad's 2001 A6 2.7 with Tiptronic last summer. It's a great car and has only 68,000 miles. But a couple of months ago I noticed that when I started the car in the morning and put it in Drive, the engine revs would speed up to 2000-2200 rpm, while the car would barely accelerate. It was as if the tranny was not engaged with the engine properly and only a tiny amount of power was going to the wheels.

    As soon as this happens (virtually every morning at start-up), I ease off the gas pedal for a second or two, then press down again. At this point, the car drives perfectly for the rest of the day. If I drive somewhere, park it for an hour or twon, then start it again, it drives just fine.

    Lately, though, the problem has become a bit more pronounced. Sometimes I can rev the just-started engine to 2800 rpm with hardly any power going to the wheels.

    My mechanic checked bulletins and found that Audi redersigned the torque converter because the original design was prone to an internal seal leaking, which would cause this problem.

    He called a buddy who works in the Parts dept. at the local Audi dealer who said "Yup, that's the problem", and that they stock these new replacement torque converters (at $970 a pop), since they sell one or two a week to suckers like me.

    Though Audi recognizes that this is a problem, it doesn't do anything to mitigate the expense of replacing defective converters. By the way, labor is estimated to take 17 hours, since the tranny has to be removed.. so the total deal is like $2,100+... and that's using my own skilled and very fair mechanic. God knows what the dealer would charge.

    Have any of you Audi owners heard of this issue or experienced it first hand? What do you think of this situation- is Audi being fair or am I being unreasonable in feeling a bit pissed off?

    Thanks,

    Andy
    Hollis, NH
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I'm trying to find a good source online for Audi parts. Particularly, I'm looking for air filters, cabin filters, oil filters, and spark plugs. I'm wanting to order a Bentley manual for it, but in the meantime, I have a few questions:
    1. Can somebody direct me to where the cabin filter is? I suspect is under the hood in the cowl, but want to make sure.
    2. Also, is the oil filter best accessed from under the car? I suspect I have to remove those plastic panels, but want to confirm.
    3. Where are the attachment points for the plastic covers on the engine? I want to swap spark plugs, but don't want to break anything in the process.

    I know, I know. Basic questions, but I'm used to BMW's and Jeeps. :)

    -Paul
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Dust And Pollen Filter, Removing And Installing

    NOTE:

    * Replacement interval for dust and pollen filter
    * The dust and pollen filter consists of 2 identical filter elements. Pay attention to correct installation position when installing (direction of flow is marked with arrows).
    * If necessary, clean plenum chamber after replacing dust and pollen filter. Pay particular attention to area beneath air intake unit.
    * Clean dust and pollen filter mounting slot in Heating and A/C unit before installing new filter.
    * There are different dust and pollen filter versions. The two filters have a different air resistance. Particular attention is therefore to be paid to correct version. Control characteristic for actuation of Fresh Air Blower V2 is adapted accordingly in control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255.
    * Filter with activated charcoal element (as integrated odor filter) is installed on vehicles with control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255 Parts List. Such vehicles are equipped with an Air Quality Sensor G238.

    Removing

    NOTE:

    * Depending on vehicle equipment, for certain versions or certain optional equipment (e.g. vehicles equipped with "Global Positioning System"), it may be necessary to remove the glove compartment (it is possible other specific control modules which are installed in this area, e.g. Special Purpose Vehicle Control Module J608 must also be removed).

    Depending on vehicle equipment, a foam insulation element may be installed (glued) in area of cover -on certain versions, remove it if necessary.

    * Remove cover - A - from lower trim of glove compartment - B -.

    NOTE: Cover - A - is held in position in lower trim of glove compartment - B - by way of 4 fasteners. These may be difficult to release and care is therefore to be taken to avoid damaging lower trim of glove compartment - B - on removal.

    * Protect floor covering with paper in area beneath slot for dust and pollen filter in Heating and A/C unit in front passengers footwell.

    Release fastener - B - and remove cover - A - for dust and pollen filter from Heating and A/C unit.

    * Remove first section of dust and pollen filter - A - from Heating and A/C unit.

    NOTE: 2 identical filter elements are installed in vertical arrangement in Heating and A/C unit.

    * Reach into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and pull second section of dust and pollen filter - B - downwards (at tab) and then out of air conditioner slot.

    Installing

    * Remove leaves, dust and other contamination from mounting slot for dust and pollen filter of Heating and A/C unit - C - using commercially available vacuum cleaner, Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 (and corresponding hose).

    NOTE: Dust and other contamination may cling to Heating and A/C unit. A brush is attached to Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 for removing such contamination.

    * Insert first section - B - of dust and pollen filter into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and slide it into upper installation position, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator).
    * If necessary, use steel rule for example to hold first section of dust and pollen filter - B - in upper installation position.
    * Slide second section of dust and pollen filter - A - (beneath first section - B - installed) into slot of Heating and A/C unit, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator).

    * Check position of seal - C - in groove - D -.
    * Install cover - A -, paying attention to correct positioning in mount - E - and fastener - B -.
    * Re-install remaining components removed in reverse order.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------

    :cry::cry::cry:

    Maybe in real life it's easier than it looks in the book? Labor time at dealer is only .4 hours, part is $36 dollars, so at the dealer the job might be like $75??

    sorry I couldn't post all the diagrams but they aren't very clear anyway. ">
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Thanks for the post. The dealer is quoting me $84.00 per filter, so 168 for 2 filters, so I don't think those $'s are right. :)

    This at least tells me it is in the passenger side dash. I can figure it from there. :)

    -Paul
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah well dealer is getting fat on that one:

    A6 Cabin Filter, Not The Gold-Plated One
  • dfundfun Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 A6 and it's my passenger window and sunroof that do it. They don't go 'up & down' but stop and reverse when closing. The Pass. window goes back 1/2 way down and the Sunroof opens back up all the way.

    P.S. This will never be fixed. They just don't know what causes it. OR, they know and the only solution is total system and window motor/assy replacement & they are not willing to do that!
  • chrisaudichrisaudi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Audi A6. Recently, the Malfunction Indicator Light came on. I brought it down to AutoZone and they did a very basic scan for no charge. The guy told me that it was probably the ignition coils that was triggering the light to come on. He told me to bring it to a mechanic.

    So far, every mechanic I've talked to wants to charge me about $90 to have the issue diagnosed. I told them it may have something to do with the ignition coils. They said one ignition coil would cost around $350, and then figure in the labor (30 min - 1 hour). This just seems like a lot of money for a problem that I would not have noticed if it were not for the light to come on.

    Any suggestions? Is there somewhere that might fix this for cheaper?
  • wkbarthwkbarth Member Posts: 4
    My advice is to sell...I have been going through the same thing-starting with having to replace the ignition coils (for the second time) and am now replacing the torque converter and am being told to expect the electronics for the ABS to be next (a $1500 item). I have a 2002 A6-granted not the same "animal" as yours, but from what I'm being told, once it starts to go, run!
    I have found that some of the local shops that specialize in Audi and have the diagnostic machines will do a diagnosis gratis (but they are few and far between). I have had the car to 4 different shops, they all seem to say the same thing but vary in price from $1500 to $5000 for the torque converter-worth doing a little checking around on.
    The coils were a recall item in 2003 or 2004 on some models (you might want to check that out).
  • mbuckley2mbuckley2 Member Posts: 1
    Try Central Service Garage in Natick Center, Dave Sheehan. I have been going there for 15years. Very fair.
  • scottso1scottso1 Member Posts: 2
    I've just been informed that i need a passenger headlight assembly for 2005 A6 (the motor which turns the headlight has shorted out, so they say. It's come on and off in the past). OUCH!! $1,000!!!

    If it wasn't for the the annoying warning light each time I start the car telling me the Adaptive Light is not working, I would them to stick their $1,000. BTW I think that's just another MFG's scam to get you to have to fix the problem. Anyone know of way to turn the warning light off??

    Does anyone also know of a way or had any luck lowering the cost of getting this fixed. How about used units installed at a reliable body shop?

    thanks

    Scott
  • jcanton1jcanton1 Member Posts: 1
    My A6 Quattro (150k mileage) evidently overheated without any warning and coolant has invaded the pistons. The repair shop quote for just a head gasket replacement is almost as much as the value of the car and we wouldn't know if there is any other damage until the heads were off.

    I am thinking about doing the job myself, or at least opening it up to to see the extent of the damage. I once did a ring and valve job on an old GM engine but have never tried anything on a modern engine such as this.

    My intention would be to do a repair in a reasonable time frame. Am I overreaching here considering special tools, manuals or Audi engine expertise?

    By the way, it would be interesting to know if anyone has a comment about the problem: the engine had plenty of coolant (very well maintained), was cruising at 65 and it simply bogged down, I pulled over and it began to steam from the engine compartment. The temperature gauge did not rise until I was on the side of the road. The shop says you can have a leak, lose coolant and burn the engine faster than it can register a high temp. That sounds pretty scary for such a "technically advanced" car.
  • colonotecolonote Member Posts: 7
    We had a '99 A6. At about 51,000 miles my wife was driving into an intersection when the timing belt broke. Stopped the car dead in it's tracks. (she could have been killed).
    Pieces of the belt flew into the engine causing $2000 worth of damage. With the dealers help Audi covered the expense although technically it was out of warranty.
    I wouldn't take any chances. Haven't given up on Audi - we now own an '08 A6.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you burn up the coolant in the combustion chamber, the temperature sensors have nothing to measure except steam. This would be the case with any car. The sensor needs to immerse itself in coolant to read correctly. So sudden coolant loss would probably be undetectable in any car.

    As for doing the work yourself, I think if you prepared yourself by buying a FACTORY repair shop manual and acquiring the tools you'll need beforehand, you might take a crack at it. As you say, basically your car is now "totalled" anyway, so what have you got to lose?

    However, you will have to take the cylinder heads to a machine shop and have them checked for warpage---this is essentially. And you MUST replace or boil out the radiator---also mandatory. If the heads need reconditioning, that could start to get expensive.

    I'd say your probability of success is dependent on the level of your preparation prior to loosening the first bolt.
  • ipod_nanoipod_nano Member Posts: 14
    Hi all,

    Finally made the plunge and purchased a CPO 05 A6 w/ 45k miles on it. While I have to admit that I am an avid BMW fan, I thought it would be nice to explore the other side and so far like it a lot.

    That said, I have a few questions:

    1- 05's include audicare, is there anything I should expect after 45k that is covered(unfortunately I did not receive a service manual, just owners + MMI)
    2- It seems as if every 5-7 or so cold-starts it seems VERY rough but then smooth's itself out after 30 seconds or so. Anyone experience this type of start?
    3-Checked the oil and it seemed a bit dark. Dealer said it's policy to change oil for every CPO(during inspection/cert) but does audi oil have a different color(sounds like a stupid ques.)
    4-Anyone change their own oil on a C6 A6? Any tips? how to remove the skid/plate cover & where to access oil filter.

    Thanx in advance.
  • bremerdcbremerdc Member Posts: 6
    I have a 99 A6 Quattro sedan. Lately, when the car is idling, I notice the volt meter kind of 'going crazy' when I have a couple of devices running at the same time (A/C, stereo, headlights, etc). It bounces between 12 and 15 volts. When the car is driving along, it seems to be fine. Any idea where to start? Battery? Alternator? Voltage regulator?

    Thanks in advance.
  • labelboblabelbob Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 A6 Automatic that is stuck in 3rd. All the transmission gears light up in black on red rather than red on black on nthe dash so the colors are reversed.

    Help!!!
  • giovannimdgiovannimd Member Posts: 3
    My 96 A6 Quatro was doing the same and it was because the batery was to small, put a new with the right zise and problem fixed, this happened specially when I used the A/C.
  • giovannimdgiovannimd Member Posts: 3
    MY 95 A6 QUATTRO, did some thing like it when I changed some fuses and they could not figured out at the transmission place, then I disconnected the (-) terminal of the battery for a couple of minutes and when I connected it back on again it reset ed some thing and the car started shifting normally again, I tried this about 3 times and it worked the same all 3 times, I have not had any problem again!!!
  • mairloumairlou Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this website and awhile ago I put a post on about questions/problems I now have with my audi;I think I listed it wrong since not showing up. When I put the car in drive and go it feels as if my emergency brake is on or something in the back wheels won't let me go forward without jerking. Someone told me that I may need to change or add transmission fluid which may be correct since we cannot locate the place to put the fluid (lack of dipstick).Does anyone have any ideas on this problem I am having? Also, where can I get a maintenance book for my vehicle.I hope someone can help me out since I would like to know is it work putting money into or not.
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1999 Audi A6 and I was told by my Audi mechanic that the transmission fluid/filter can only be changed by removing the transmission casing and adding fluid. You should be able to find a maintenance book at a site called partstrain.com or on ebay.
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1999 Audi A6 and the sunroof and windows don't operate. Has anyone had this problem and if so what can I do to fix it?
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2005 A6 and the factory 3 of the 4 tires that came with the car developed bubbles in the side walls.Has anyone else had this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is often referred to as "pinch shock" and is probably due to impact damage. Sometimes, or so I've been told, it can also be caused by a shifting belt in the tire.

    I would contact Continental about this problem. I don't think it is terribly dangerous but one never knows. You might get some kind of pro-rated settlement out of the deal if you handle it right. The dealer will probably just blow you off and refer you to the tire manufacturer, although a competent dealer will at least help you in the process. You might also check to see if your insurance covers this as some kind of road hazard incident. However, generally it is not such a great idea to make a claim under $1,500 or so.
  • bigjer2bigjer2 Member Posts: 4
    Hi ,
    My Audi , 2006 A6 3.2 Quattro is going off lease this December. (under 30,000 miles) I absolutely LOVE this car and have had ZERO problems with it. The issue at hand is ; Would it be a wise choice to buy this vehicle for the residual of around $24,000? It will have a full year left on the Audi (all-inclusive) Warranty. I have mixed feelings because of some horror stories I read here about high maintenance and repair costs. I was considering a extended warranty for 5 yrs and 85,000 miles (bumper to bumper) but they run around $3000+.

    Can anyone enlighten me ?
  • zorozoro Member Posts: 5
    Well I have a 2005 A6 that purchased off lease and I am happy with the decision. Make sure you work through your dealer to get the free maintenance extended and get the overall warranty extended. It will add a few grand to the purchase price but it mitigates the risk of a major repair expense down the road. Supposedly the extended maintenance agreement through audi leasing is different than what the dealer can offer so make sure you speak to your dealer. Also, check the market price versus the residual price. the market is softer and you may have an opportunity to get a better price.
  • loggieloggie Member Posts: 55
    try to negotiate the buyout price in december.

    audi just lowered the msrp on all remaining 2008 A6's by $5000 because of the just announced "slightly" redesigned A6 for 2009. check out the current pricing for 2006 A6 CPO vehicles for sale today that are similarly configured with low mileage, then check the price again in december, it can only go down.
  • aledgisteraledgister Member Posts: 1
    I just brought my "dream" car a month ago with 81,000 miles. About two weeks it suddenly shut down while I was in a parking deck, thank God. The MIL and ESP lights came on and the car sputtered/died/revved up on its own while in traffic for the next 30 minutes. Suddenly the lights went off and the car functioned beautifully. Two weeks later, the same problem. My local Audi dealer couldn't find the problem, but PepBoys and a local Audi specialist found the mass airflow sensor and camshaft position sensor faulty.

    I've seen where others have had the same problem. Does ANYONE know what it could possibly be before I sink money into it? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if an Audi specialist found those trouble codes, what's the issue with proceeding to correct the problem? Do you not trust the diagnosis?
  • toadhollowtoadhollow Member Posts: 6
    My A6 has been sitting in my yard unused for 2 years. I started it yesterday, it runs OK but a little rough. I can't get the gears shift to get out of park. I pressed on the brake and still can't get it out of park. It feels locked and there is no give to the lever.
    I wonder if there is an override someplace because the battery was dead for so long and the new battery may have kicked in some protector????
    All the dealers or repair shops answer the same way. """" Bring the car in"""""".
    Any ideas before the repairshop gets it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Brake safety switch under the pedal . See if you have brake lights. If not, that's it for sure. ( or the fuse that governs it).
  • toadhollowtoadhollow Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the response. I have brake lights. I looked under the brake pedal and couldn't find any switches along the pedal. Where should I look???? Is there a fuse specific to the park lever?? If so whiuch one would it be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, Plan B :P

    Might be the Shift Lock Solenoid. I don't know if you want to tackle this without a book. the solenoid looks in a photo like a small white thing under the shifter/console when you remove it.

    You might consult your owner's manual for the location of a small hole to temporarily insert a screwdriver or key to release the shift lever. Most cars have this somewhere.

    5 Speed Automatic 01V

    Shift Lock Solenoid Switch, removing and installing

    Removing

    * Remove shift mechanism.
    * Remove stop buffer from cable lever.
    * Shift to Tiptronic position and remove frame.
    * Move selector lever to "2".
    * Disengage lever for lock cable by lifting it from its mounting and remove from mounting bracket.
    * Press out bolt for locking pawl using drift.
    * Remove shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl upward.

    Installing

    * Move selector lever to "2".
    * Install shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl from above into mounting bracket.
    * Carefully drive in bolt for locking pawl.
    * Check engagement of locking pawl in "P" and "N" of selector lever using a screwdriver.
    * Insert locking pawl into mounting bracket and lock it by feel in both mountings.
    * Check locking function of locking pawl: Locking pawl must engage in shift lever position "P" and must lock the selector lever.
    * Install frame on mounting bracket (ribbed side must face up) and install stop buffer in cable lever.
    * Install shift mechanism.
  • toadhollowtoadhollow Member Posts: 6
    Thanks again. On to Plan B....... I'll let you know how it goes.
  • 0506colix0506colix Member Posts: 5
    hi i recently purches an 2002 Audi A6 with 86000 miles. it runs great, today i was driving and were it indicates the mpgs you are getting a 2:00h stared flashing. I turn off the car and turn it back on and it still there, any idea what it means???????????? thank you
  • kirby2010kirby2010 Member Posts: 136
    There are buttons on the bottom and end of the right control arm that change the display and turn it on and off. When the car is running you can "toggle" through the options - elapsed trip time, miles per gallon, etc. I don't take long trips very often but when I do the 2:00h will pop up after I've been driving for two hours - even if I have the display set for miles per gallon.

    BTW - I have a 2001 2.7T w/6-speed. 102,000 miles so far (bought new). The adjustment for the lumbar support doesn't adjust. Otherwise no problems.
  • 0506colix0506colix Member Posts: 5
    thank you kirby2010 that makes alot of sense I appreciate your answer. I have another problem, my control panel indicates that the right rear door is open but it is close, i open the door and close it but it still indicates that it is opened, when im driving the interior lights flash and the rear door appear in the panel. Im wondering where the door sensor is at, and if it is expensive to fix . THANK YOU
  • rnordeenrnordeen Member Posts: 1
    My wife's A6 didn't make it home from the gym the other day. Turn the key, absolutely nothing. We live in Northern Minnesota where there are not a lot of import dealers or mechanics, but my regular mechanic determined that the part in the steering column that tells the ignition that the car is in gear is broken. Part of it even fell out when he took the steering column apart. I just need to know what this part is called, where I can find it, how much it costs, and how difficult it would be for me or my mechanic to replace. Thanks.
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Member Posts: 10
    HI everyone,

    I have a 1999 Audi A6 and the power windows and sunroof don't work.Is that function is controlled by the main window switch?And is there another fuse for the lights because I tried replacing a fuse and they still didn't work.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you're going to need the repair manual to figure this out. Basically the key operates a little cam that works a key lock solenoid that sends a signal to the gear shifter. Cars have different systems but it sounds like your Audi has a mechanical/electrical function in the steering column.

    I'm sure the Audi dealer's parts counter has a diagram of all the parts on microfiche or on CD, which they might even print out for you since you're going to have to buy the parts from them anyway.

    Obviously something came loose in the steering column--either the lock, the cam, or the lock solenoid.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    1. Not really. After the initial warranty, you pretty much foot the bill. BMW's CPO program and 100k warranty is IMO much stronger (previously own 2002 325xi and 2005 645ci).

    2. It can. You using the button to start or the key? button start seems a bit flaky on ours.

    3. I'd probably change oil yourself, just for peace of mind. I use Mobil 1 or Castrol (both meet VW/Audi specs - just verify the label). Can't recall if it is 5w30 or 0w40 that I used.

    4. You don't have to remove the underside if you hvae the right tools. Filter is on TOP of the engine under that black cover just behind the grey header cover. I'm NOT talking about the black cover that houses the filter/brake reservoir, etc. If you have a fluid extractor, you can suck it out that way via the dipstick. I do that while the A6 is on wheel ramps and it forces oil to the back of the pan. Once I get all I can, I THEN remove the underside cover (silver button screws turn 90 degrees and come right out - easy), open the drain plug and get the remaining fluid. Be careful getting the oil filter out from the top (need 36mm socket IIRC). If you're not careful, you'll get oil all over the engine as you tip it. Plastic baggies are a HUGE help here.

    Hope that answers your questions.

    I can say after owning this A6 that we will NOT buy another. Even spark plugs (from the dealer) are 19.00 each. I got some NGK's for our A6 online for 8.00 each, which is still high, but a LOT easier to stomach. I'm putting on new pads tomorrow, but they're not dealer. They are aftermarket EBC pads (Redstuff) and they're ceramic.

    I'd recommend a Bentley manual if you plan on doing more maintenance yourself. Knowing how to take the stuff apart will be 95% of your problem. If you figure out how to get to the cabin filter, let me know! :)

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If you are buying off lease, get the maintenance contract and/or extended warranty. AND make sure you know what is covered. Things like spark plugs run 20.00 each from the dealer and 130+ for front pads. Maintenance will add up QUICK if you're not careful. Some maint. warranties cover wear/tear like brakes and wipers. Some don't.

    -Paul
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Member Posts: 10
    I have the same exact problem in my 99 A6.
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