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Comments
I bipassed a local Audi dealer due to questionable customer service and drove to an Audi dealer a little further away to have it repaired. I was later called and told that all repairs relating to the recall were complete... but I STILL DO NOT HAVE LIGHTS, SIGNALS, WIPERS OR HORN... and was told that this was unrelated to the recall. Very frustrating. They now want $260 for 'standard diagnosing'. THIS, after the tech had told me he had "never seen this recall part so badly melted without catching fire." And remember, I lost these other functions at the same time as the headlights.
HOW IN THE WORLD can I lose these functions and it not be related to the recall... especially since I lost the functions at the same time????
Anyone else with this issue? Anyone have solutions?
Thanks in advance.
Summary: Slow tight turns, such as into a garage or parking space caused a low vibration that shook the entire vehicle. My Jeep with lockers turned quieter and smoother.
Despite efforts with replacing tires and such, the dealership continually told us "working as expected". Well, don't let me loose on the Internet.
We have documentation from EVERY visit to the dealer where we mentioned this prior to warranty expiring. From 18,000 miles on, every visit made mention of this issue. Each time - working as designed.
After calling Audi Customer Care, we made some progress and they wanted to try replacing the fluid in the differentials. Turns out in 2005 and perhaps part of 2006, Audi used a different fluid in the diffs than what is used now. We found, after a LOT of digging, a TSB that addressed our VERY issue (especially armed with the information about different fluid). Took that to the dealership, along with our info from ACC, and talked to the service Manager, a guy who has always taken care of us. (We've purchased 2 Audis, a VW, and a Mazda from this same dealer).
They replaced the fluid in front, no charge, and charged us $67.00 to go ahead and do the rear one as well.
The result: a car that is as quiet as it EVER has been. FINALLY! After 5 years of nagging them, we realized we were NOT insane!
I'll dig up the TSB number and text of it if others find this of interest and possible use.
-Paul
In addition to that problem, I recently took the car in to the dealer for a number of complaints and repairs. Amongst them was the vibration, oil leak, front strut knocking, timing belt, water pump, thermostat (this has to be changed when the front is off the engine). They worked on the car for 1 week, then a couple of days later my timing belt broke loose (they had not torqued the tensioner bolt correctly). Had the car taken back to the dealer (50 miles), they worked again for another week. When I got it back the oil leak was still there. Back again to the dealer who eventually fixed the leak. The vibration (they said) was 'cured' by replacing the rear transmission mounts. Needless to say this was not the cure, the problem was still there. They re-imbursed me for the mounts and now they do not wish to see me again.
However, since that time I have been experiencing a vibration when driving at around 50mph, seems to be associated with transmission shaking etc. Reading other blogs it would resemble the transmission shaft problem - out of center.
Any else have such luck?
Tell me what year/model your car is.
Thanks
jkAudiA6
Try this web page if your mechanically inclined.
If not Get professional help from a certified Audi
shop or dealer. Without the correct diagnostic tools your
spending more money than you need to,(Hit and miss).
If your car is in the following PDF start reading and get smart before
you go to the dealer.
Best of luck
jkaudiA6
http://manualfreeebook.com/pdf-files/audi-2-7-biturbo-v6-sprangskiss/.html
A couple of other suggestions:
If you have a VAGCom Diagnostic device to read the error codes;
Then Go to Erwin.Com the Audi Self Help web page sign-up for access
either hourly,daily or long term.
https://erwin.audiusa.com/erwin/showStepByStep01.do
Then collect your VagCom Data from the Vehicle including VIN and error data
locate the information you need and repair procedures on the web page.
If this is a customer vehicle you can recoup your related cost to Irwin.
If it's your private vehicle you have the advantage of dealing with Audi direct.
Good Luck
Best Regards
jkAudiA6 :shades:
Much regards!
-Doc
I too...Never again will purchase an Audi P.O.S
">http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/3570/img1429o.jpg
Been out of the loop for a while,sorry !
On Board Diagnostics, (OBDII) should work.
AS for flow charts of start procedures you will have to go to The Internet,
Use the search "Audi self Study program (ssp) list for starters. then find the (ssp) that is for the car your working on, they are organized by groups; drive-train, electrical ........
Your fuel/ start problem is most likely a sensor problem first, then electrical followed by mechanical. The central ECU which processes all this related data sends the messages to the individual components. Please note that SSP's are not intended for mechanical repair, those documents can be downloaded from Erwin.com on an individual basis.
Hope this is not to late but is good for further reference.
Best Regards
JkAudiA6
I hear your frustration!
Got to tell ya, I'm not much of a fan when it comes to Acronym's, I found 250 Plus (P.O.S.) after doing a search on Google. The other side of this coin is I worked within the automotive industry and around vehicles for long time and I think I remember what P.O.S. stands for even though acronym's were not in style back in the day, if you get my drift.
Anyway!
Sorry you had a bad experience with a used car.
But in all fairness, you got to separate between normal wear and tear and mechanical failure. I made an earlier post about late ninety Audi's but I guess you did not see it.
In short ! When buying a used vehicle, no matter what brand, you got to do your home work, before jumping in the fire. As for your "Dodge Caravan SE, do you remember
Lee Iacocca? It looks like Chrysler could use his help again. Or to put it another way Who owns Chrysler now? Could be the title of a "New Game show".
PS: A very good friend of mine just purchased a "USED 1999 Audi A4 Quattro" with 268000 Kilometers (180,000 miles) 2.8 Ltr. V6 5V (five valve) and it runs like a watch.
In closing!
Show me a car and I'll show you a money pit. The only question is how deep is the Pit?
Best Regards
Have a great day
jkAudiA6
Start with the obvious first, things you can check yourself: Fuses which may have blown.
This info is in your owners manual, location of fuse box, Amperage values etc.
The next step would be an OBDII Error check which may or may cost you.
If you have the car serviced where the OBDII test is performed then ask them for a price break should you have the car repaired at the same shop.
In any case ask for the Error report printout, your paying for that information and this is all about information. I paid about 30 dollars for my last test, They should be able to print out specific system areas, you don't necessarily need error reports for drive train data if your problem is dash board related, for example.
If that does not help, then you will most likely need to find a reputable Audi Service center.
Could be a relay problem, could be a Central processing unit gone bad, could be a "Cold Soldier joint on the Printed Circuit board, (PCB) which is within the instrument cluster this last item can be repaired by a reputable third party firm that specializes in Automotive electronics. This does not necessarily need to be a brand new part from Audi if you don't mind waiting for repair from a third party specialty firm. Internet search should reveal firms that do this kind of work.
Trouble shooting electrical can be expensive but much of that will depend on your knowledge before going to the shop.
There is also a switch related to the shifting lever for your "Automatic Transmission. This switch sends signals to the "Central Processing Unit" (ECU) which in turn sends
data to individual components pertaining to vehicle access and movement.
If you do a "Google Search" in the internet there are fairly complete list of "Error codes" for Audi which will bring more sense to your vehicle problem. The place to look would be http://www.vaglinks.com/. (VAG/OBDII Error Codes)
Hope this has been of some help.
Best Regards
jkAudiA6
Thanks
Rod_Martin
He took off first the headlights,then the bumper and then belts and other parts.(You can look at the video at the you-tube).It took him 2 weeks to work on it every night after he's real work.And when you put the timing belt back it has to go exactly ,can't be off even one notch.
Now everything works except we still have a one more oil leak ,somewhere from the camshaft tentsioner. And he is worried that something could go wrong...I am about to through up!
Welcome to the Audi owner-machanics club!!!
Eventually we probably have to sell the car,even so I love how it drives.
I'm assuming you driving a 2000 A6 2.7 Liter, Twin Turbo powered car.
If you have a Can Bus II Diagnostic device the first thing you should do is
get a Diagnostic read out of your error codes regarding the coolant system.
If you don't have that diagnostic device you could buy one at Target,Wal Mart or Pep Boy's should one of those be in your area. You could get the read out from
an Audi Dealer or reputable independent Audi Shop.
Another option is as follows:
a. Using Google type in the following: SSP 198 Audi A6 2000
In the search listing you should find an SSP listing for Audi A6 SSP 198, Click and download and open that Acrobat file.
b. On pages 9,10 & 18 are diagrams of the cooling system of the 2.7 liter twin Turbo engine. Read through those pages and try try to figure out which of those valves that you did not replace might be the problem.
c. Assuming that the Heater worked prior to changing out the Thermostat and your husband changed it, it could be that it was put in backwards. I don't need to tell him what that means. If that's not your engine get the Engine code off the engine block it's usually a "Three letter Code".
Here is another Link for engine codes Small Audi Engines.
http://www.qpeng.com/faqs/engine_faqs/all_these_engine_codes_can_you_explain_wha- t_they_mean.html
d. A final option would be go to this web page:
http://www.automd.com/
They have a section for Do it your self (DIY) people, look in the "How To Repair"section
or they have other services available.
Hope this has been some help and good luck.
JKAudiA6 :sick:
You did the correct thing in replacing the front ball joints & other needed parts as this is a reoccurring problem. Hope you had an alignment done as well.
Three things you need to do;
Brake pads and rotors front
Wheel alignment front
Power Steering system
Jack up the front end of the car, remove both front tires and with a flash light compare the brake pads on the left side with the right side.If the right side has more wear (less pad thickness) or the rotor show signs of
unusual wear, groves, scratches.
Second point check the power steering system; I will have to research this and get back to you. if it is electronically controlled steering this could also be a problem. Electronically controlled Power steering controls two function; resistance based on the speed of the car;I.e.,The faster you drive the more resistance, the slower you drive the easier the steering becomes.
Check the Power steering fluid level, top it of with the Audi recommended fluid type, that's in your manual if you have one.
Finally if your A6 is Quattro (All wheel drive (AWD)) this could be a mechanical problem, but will take the easier stuff first.
The ABS issue is Brake related but other than unusual brake wear you most likely will not see the problem because it's electronically controlled by sensors on each wheel and a central control unit called an ECU. What you need for this is the error code that your shop guy cleared with that diagnostic device.
If you have a power steering pump, check the belt that drives it and the tensioner for that belt, if the belt is loose or the tensioner is not turning smoothly the steering may be binding.
I will get back to you as soon as I find the information that might help.
Keep in mind that your car was not designed for "Do it yourself Mechanics".
the extent of what you can do on your car is directly related to having the correct devices to diagnose the problem, and one of those things is $$$$$$$.
If this is a brake problem, (ABS) you should leave this to a professional shop or Audi Dealer as it's a safety issue. The purpose of the information I'm passing on to provide you enough knowledge that should you go to a repair shop you can converse and hopefully understand that what they are telling is correct or not.
Best Regards
JKAudiA6 :sick: PS the Black Wheel behind the driver wheel?????????
Well no luck finding a document for the suspension but while reading I forgot the ESP system. ESP is an electronic traction control which regulates vehicle handling through the braking system. ESP and ABS are controlled by the same ECU unit along with engine management. In critical circumstances these systems work together to keep the vehicle on the road: Wheel spin, Aquaplaning in wet weather, or tight turns where the rear end might brake loose.
If you have Dashboard warning lights for either of these systems this would be another place to look. As a follow up those to tie rods that are or were touching should not be. Check to make sure that one or the other is not bent. If you are the second owner and the vehicle is high mileage perhaps the first owner neglected to inform you that one of those tie rods was replaced in the past.
Here is a TSB
http://uberlame.com/a6_tsb/Electrical/ESP%20light%20on%20(DTC%20Please%20read%20engine%20control%20unit).pdf for a more recent Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on ESP ABS.
I hope this has been of some help. ESP and ABS are dynamic systems and as a result
rather complicated to trouble shoot without a CAN BUS II device.
Best of Luck
JKAudiA6 :shades:
1. Be mechanically inclined there are write-ups for most everything that can go wrong with your 2.7TT with detailed pictures, otherwise be prepared for $$$$$ labor bills from $tealerships.
2. Buy a VAGCOM cable + download the free software
3. Get familiar with the eBay parts - cheap and plentiful for these years of A6
4. Before buying ask yourself - do you really want to have the easy 330HP/350 ft. lbs torque AWD that you will absolutely have to maintain ?
All of this being said - I have done just about everything that can be done between the 2 of my Audis: turbos, trans, torque converter, gaskets, sensors, belts, display cluster, clutch, CAT$$$, etc. But at the end of the day - spooling the 2 x K03's or 2xK04's as you blast onto the onramp at 70MPh without slipping makes it all worth it
This is what it looks like
If your living in the New York area you don't need fog lights you need a snow plough. All joking aside ! Bulb type should be in your service or owners manual but unless you want to crawl under the front of your vehicle I'd suggest going to the Local Audi dealer or where you have the vehicle serviced.
Best Regards
jkAudiA6
If cars could talk I'm sure they would speak volumes about how they had been treated from previous owners.
thanks for taking the time to write back about your success.
Best Regards
JKAudiA6
I primarily use this car to take me to the train station and thought about ignoring it.. but it is a nice car and ABS is a safe feature to ignore.
does anyone have an idea if this is the best way to fix this problem..
Lets start with the basics, Give me the Year and model of your Audi A6 preferable in this form: A6 4B,C5,C6 or some other chassis classification, Motor Code Alpha Numeric, Model year and Either a Saloon, or Avant, with or without Quattro and Transmission type.
Thanks
jkAudiA6 :sick: :sick:
Your ignition switch and the control units for Vehicle start authorization are most likely the area where the problem is. I say most likely because you will need to have a "Authorized Service Center" or reputable Repair shop familiar with older Audi A6 Sedan 4B2/C5 electronics run a diagnostic test for error codes to pin point the problem. Unless you have a "VagCom" diagnostic tester and considerable Electronics/software knowledge this is not a job for DIY (Do it yourself repair). In my opinion, you will need Audi to solve this problem, either through there Web Page, Erwin.com or a dealer. Electronics are always a difficult task and all but impossible to diagnose over the internet, in particular with older vehicles.
Over the last ten plus or so years, Audi has moved to HiTec Components and electronics. The up-side is more efficient vehicles when they operate correctly, but when a problem arises, it's $$$$'s that solve the problem. I hope this will save you some time.
Best Regards
JkAudiA6
I have had the car back for 2 days and it just stalled out again around 7pm. Left the car, came back to it at 9pm and the car is running like nothing happened.
Any idea what I should be telling the tech to look for?
To start with if they had your car for two days and did not find anything wrong you need to
seriously find a better Audi Service Center, even if you purchased the car there.
Tell me, did they "The Service Dept." of your Audi dealer do a Diagnostic read out and not give you a copy and charge you for that Diagnostic read out on your "Oil Change Reciept"????????? Shame on Them my friend.
If not go back and get one, any error codes in particular from the Engine electronics, engine Temperature and fuel systems.
Then find out if there are Technical Service bullitens,(TSB's) regarding your specific problem.
Another question:
Does the car always start and run until the engine gets warm then stall?
I don't know if your current model is the same but in the 99 A6 The Engine temperature sensor is a dual sensor and measures Engine Water Temperature and Fuel pressure.
DOES IT STOP WHILE DRIVING??????
DO YOU HAVE ANY WARNING LIGHTS on the Instrument Cluster before the problem happens???
Get back to me with that Info.
Thanks
JKAudiA6 :sick:
The stalls have happened at various times (15 minutes into drive after sitting during work day; stalled after sitting for a 10 minute period between stops; stalled after 1 1/2 commute when backing out of driveway)
2 out of 3 stalls occurred while I was driving and never at a speed level above 15 - 20mph.
There have been no warning lights prior to the 3 incidents.
I was able to drive it to the dealer today (20 minutes approx) without any problems. Left it and waiting to see what's next.
Thanks JK...
The stalls have happened at various times (15 minutes into drive after sitting during work day; stalled after sitting for a 10 minute period between stops; stalled after 1 1/2 commute when backing out of driveway)
2 out of 3 stalls occurred while I was driving and never at a speed level above 15 - 20mph. Conditiions have varied as well i.e. heavy rains, dry and NJ cool.
There have been no warning lights at anytime.
I was able to drive it to the dealer today (20 minutes approx) without any problems. Left it and waiting to see what's next.
Thanks JK...
Please copy this linked address to your browser and read, Even if some or all is not clear because of technical terms. When you get done with that I have couple of questions:
1. Did you purchase the vehicle New?
2. you mention earlier the Oil level was very low;
A. Are you on a 12 month service interval program or 24 Months?
B. Are you using Mineral based motor oil?
3. Ref. Question Nr.1, Have you or the previous owner had any "Chip tuning done by A third party tuning shop?
4. Ref. question 2a,b; If your oil level was really low you should have had a warning light unless of course the light or sensor for it were defective. If it is defective and the oil level was "very low" then the engine would shut down.
Check your Operators manual about that.
5. Also if your using a Mineral based Oil you need to stop doing that as A6 3.2 liter engines are highly proned to "Sludge build up" Check your operation manual
For the correct Oil recommended by Audi/VW. Since your vehicle is now three plus years old, unless you purchased an extension warranty, your car will not be covered in either case unless you follow the Mfg's service intervals.
The link which I attached talks about software updates for A6 3.2 FSI vehicle "IF" your vehicle has a "vin number" which falls within the referenced VIN number range. This info. is from an Audi Tech. Bullies which I found on the net. Print it out and Talk to your dealer about this issue.
Please understand I'm not saying any one or more of the issues above are the cause of your problem, but we have to start somewhere, correct.
Be informed before you take your car in, not after. One last note-about driving habits as I also drive an A6 3.2 Quattro: Short trips with An A6 3.2 eng. is like stuffing rags in a vacuum cleaner, sooner or later it will choke to death. I say this with,, "Tongue in Cheak" but if that's the case Find a long road, if you get my drift, and be careful. Have you not noticed that it uses fare less gas at highway speeds than in the city?
Let us know how things turn out.
Thanks
JKAudi44 : :shades:
Sent from my iPad
~$6300 + tx in ADDITIONAL repairs "recommended" Dec '11 but now deferred [including replacing fr brake pads/rotors (2nd x)), pan gasket and engine rr main seal, lt fr drive axle & CV boot (2nd boot), rt ft axle shaft seal, shifter assembly for reverse light, and rr rotors]. ~$3000 + tx in MORE ADDITIONAL repair (dealer's analysis but not currently "recommended") : replace valve seal guides (after 2 induction services for exhaust smoke on startup). Therefore, ~$10,000 imminent/future repairs!!! Thank you for any feedback.
Well in general terms one would expect a vehicle of t">link titlehat price class to have fewer problems . But then I drove an E34 BMW for twenty one years, 180k miles total before I finally said it's time to let go. AS for an Audi strategy, the more I read about U.S. Audi on this and other forums and having worked as a New car service advisor for 10 plus years I can't help but wonder.
A.Is there a difference in quality control and third party supply chains between Audi Europe and the U.S. Of course it's difficult at best to get a straight answer from a dealer salesman or women, and they most like would not know anyway where specific parts are Manufactured on any given vehicle. But these days it's common place to find replacement parts from, China,Poland as well as other forgien third party Mfg's. The question is then, are they of the same quality as "German" parts. My answer to that has several answers:
1. Original Equipment Manufactured (OEM) parts have a different engineered quality level than replacements parts from thiird party suppliers.
2. OEM does not always mean that a given vehicle MFG makes the parts used in the vehicles they build. What it really means is that parts "OEM", sold as OEM parts are to the engineered standards of that Vehicle MFG.
3. There are also government standards applicable in the country where the vehicle is sold.
In general The record shows Audi does an exceptional job of building mass production vehicles in a number of different price classes. Are motor vehicles perfect, no. Is there a difference between U.S. models and German Market vehicles, it appears so.In the end you will have to decide when your vehicle, the pleasure or aggrevation level has peaked, and tread in.
All of that withstanding Audi is not a cheap car to buy or own And Maintain.
I purchased my 05, A6 Quattro, used one owner with fifty-one K kilometers, about 35k miles. IN the first year I replace the battery, and blinker repair from an Audi dealer, cost 500 € or about $650. This year a Headlight adjustment motor $80 DIY, brake pads and rotors on the front, ceramic 750€.
Of course when the head gasket on our 1990bmw blew in 09, it was a surprise.
And after laying out $2000 just to find out it would cost another 1k I did the work myself with the help of a friend and then sold it to him for 500 cash. So when you talk about money pits, some cars are just better than others.
One last word and I'll stop! I started to smoke when I was 17 and stopped @ 42
My first car was A fifty-one Chevy since then Nine other cars, give or take. Then the best one was my 1966 Beatle, now it's my A6. Of course if I were
to add up all the money I've spent on maintenance and repair, oH well you get the idea. What's the answer! If your rich buy what you like, if your not rich then Research,research, reseach.The Internet is a wealth of information.
Good luck to you my friend for the New Year.
Best Regards
JKAudiA6 :shades: