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Comments
Up to 100K miles, the car has a reasonable repair history. And the warrant should have covered it up to 50K. Actually, between 50-100K, you only spent ~$600, not counting routine maintenance. I don't think one can expect a car with >100K miles to be "low cost" unless its an accord...
It happen leaving my driveway to take the car for its 25M service. Any others out there with similar experience?
This is not a safe car.
I can't buy another one. This is the second new Audi I have owned that had serious failures. :lemon:
Do you really feel that way or were you kidding?
New battery on a four/five old car - not unreasonable, especially if you live in the north. PVC valve is (I think) a normal replacement item. Big tune up - should have known that in advance. Brakes - how do your drive? Lots of city driving? Auto or std? Timing tensioner went? Should have got your moneys worth during the big tune up.
Not saying some of this can't be chalked up to reliability but I haven't seen anyone on this board take any responsibility for any problem they encountered or acknowledged some degree of normal wear and tear.
I currently have a 2000 S80 that was also certified. It had some problems but all were corrected and the dealership handled professionally.
Am I wrong to consider the Audi, any other recommendations?
Thanks
Krystof
Thanks
Joe
2 cv boots (replace entire axle) - I did it myself and saved about $300
rear brakes - Did it myself and saved about $600
Pixels missing the in NAV display (warranty), but took 2x to get it right, finally had to reset the gps myself to get it working.
MAF sensor - Warranty
Some weird brade - $200 (Told it was cheap. yeah, right)
Several check engine lights
Broken tail light
The cv boot required a lot more work then anticipated so instead of saving $600, it cost me $300 as I ended up requiring helf from the dealer.
The car ride is nice. Realibility is good. The service price and quality of work is horrible. Why does a $8 braid cost $180 of service? Most dealers do not offer a loaner, and those who do are expensive.
As with one of the prior posts, I miss my old Nissan dealer. I would call them, and they would have the part in a day or two. I have a dealer who I bought from, which claims it takes them 3 weeks to get any parts, and another dealer by my house who can get the parts in 2 days. They are 15 miles apart so what gives?
I will keep my Audi, only because I will fix everything myself once the warranty runs out. (Except for engine and stuff.) I do not recommend this car for non car buffs.
1500 miles in two and 1/2 weeks - and 'not one glich' since leaving the dealership. I look for reasons to drive the car (spending more time with the wife taking her on errands.)
In January of '02, I purchaed a dealer certified '98 A6, new off lease w/ 33,600 miles. The lessee had been a client of the dealership, which was a good thing as all maintenance records were available for verification. As I am an accountant by trade, I enlisted the help of a personal friend (auto tech) to go over the exterior, check out the sterring and undercarriage, etc. The car ran like a dream the two times I test drove it, made no strange noises, passed muster on inspection (dealership even let us use their lift) and acted enough like my mother's 98 that I was satisfied it was the goods.
Within a month and less than 500 miles, I was back at the dealership complaining of a 'squeaking' noise coming from what I thought was the steering column. The dealer informed me that the car needed a tie rod assembly and new set of upper control arms (I needed my auto tech friend to interpret this for me, and basically hit the roof when I realized they were telling me the steering was effectively shot. Wallingford Porsche/Audi (where I purchased) wanted to charge me fifteen hundred bucks to fix the whole enchilada, but I screamed, pointed to my 2 year/100K mile extended warranty as well as the fact that my family was currently into them for three other Audis. They eventually fixed the problem free of charge.
The car served me reliably with absolutely NO problems until about three months ago when, you guessed it, I started to hear that same squeaking sound again. I just got around to bringing the car to the dealer yesterday (this time New Country of Greenwich) and was informed that:
1) The tie rods are shot, and that I need new assemblies;
2) The upper control arms are shot, and I need new ones;
3) The outer axle joint boots are shot, and I need new ones.
For this, they wanted to charge me $3,000 (labor at $250/hr!). Leaving aside the question of whether New Country is ripping my eyes out on price, I would like to know if such repairs could be construed as 'normal wear and tear' considering this is twice within 75K miles. Our roads are lousy around here, and I do go through a lot of stop/go traffic, but haven't hit any big bumps or potholes that I would construe as causing heavy damage.
You don't need to remove the entire engine belly pan. I did that the first time and had a bear of a time trying to get it all back. Actually, I didn't because I couldn't align the rear fasteners properly because I couldn't reach that far back and do not own a car lift or stands. Fortunately, my car was still under the service warranty, so at the next service they put everything back without question. I assume they thought the previous service guy didn't put it together during the last visit
What I have learned is that you need to loosen a few of the screws; just the left and front and maybe the front right side, just enough to get the cover to come down. You'll have to experiment depending on how far your reach is. Once, the screws are removed (and make sure you have them together, they're small and can get blown away), pull the belly pan cover down a little but don't apply brute force as to bend the rear attachment. You should have enough room to use a socket wrench and oil filter wrench to complete the job, as well as place a oil containment/recycling container underneath to capture your used oil.
If you're not big chested and do not have short arms, you can save on the $125 or so the dealer charges and perform this vital and easy maintenence service yourself, without even a car lift!
I'm almost afraid to admit that it is the 2.8 V6 Sounds as though perhaps that is not a good thing. Unending troubles ahead?
You're going to love it! How can you go wrong with 4 yr, maintenance included?
Best wishes.
Don't know of any other carriers or phones, but am very pleased with my set-up.
:shades:
:confuse:
I wound up replacing both tie rods, control arms, and CV boots (CV joints were salvaged, thank god). The way it was explained to me was as follows: the control arm is a closed mechanical apparatus that operates on a ball-and-socket principal. When the parts are manufactured, the socket is lubricated with a layer of silicon before the ball is added and the assemblage closed. The ball and socket move whenever the driver turns the wheel.
Because the control arm assemblage is closed, it is not possible to reach the joint for re-lubrication, and when the joint dries out it must be replaced at risk of cracking and loss of steering control. This 'drying-out' is what produces the squeaking (and eventually groaning if allowed to go long enough) noise as the metal ball and metal socket start rubbing together once the silicon layering is worn through.
I asked if these types of problems were the genesis of collisions/accidents/etc., or normal wear and tear. The Audi tech replied that while he couldn't peg it to mileage, he did at least two of these jobs per week-for whatever that is worth. :confuse:
Extended Warranties
Phone rings and my service advisor informs me that all four of my valve stem caps are corroded onto the valve stems.
Audi advantage to the rescue? Bzzzt! Wrong.
Audi valve caps (Audi brand) on Audi valve stems are warranted for 12 months.
Period.
Wow.
Other than your wife, that is.
From your many dealings with Audi, do you have a contact established already, or did you just call some 800 number? I'm trying to figure out if we would all get this treatment, or if this was a "Mark special".
Thanks
I have a 2000 Audi A6 4.2 quattro, and sometimes when it's cold outside, it makes strange noise. When I turn the steering wheel to the right, it gets louder. It goes away after a while though. When I checked the steering wheel fluid reservoir, the fluid looks foamy, but there are no leaks. Air must be getting in from somewhere, but unable to find it. What do you suspect?
The seals have been checked, and I see no leaking. Does this model normally eat 2 quarts of oil in 4,000 miles?
Any Thoughts?????
Three weeks after driving off the lot, my water pump went out. The dealership didn't charge me. A few months went by and my rear brakes went. They fixed the problem, and didn't charge me. BUT, the mechanic that fixed my brakes told me that an inspection wasn't done on my car. The mechanic that was supposed to do my inspection didn't do it, and was since fired from his job. At this point I should have sold the car back, but I didn't.
Last winter I paid $1300 for the cam seal issue.
A few weeks ago I noticed a rumbling noise from the front. Something seemed very loose. Seemed like a tire was going to fall off. Took my car back to the dealership. They told me it was the tie rod. They fixed the tie rod, and I paid for it and drove it off the lot. Within 10 minutes of driving the car, I noticed the noise was louder and more constant. I drove back to the dealership and asked them to recheck the car. They then told me that I had a dent in my transmission and I needed a new one. They said the noise was coming from the differential, but caused by the transmission.
While I was waiting to get my car back, one of the mechanics came to me and whispered in my ear "its always good to get a second opinion."
I did. I took it to an authorized Audi dealership (not where I bought the car). They told me that I didn't not need a new transmission, they said the dent was in the pan, and the transmission was ok. BUT I did need:
Here are the items noted that need attention on your 2000 A6:
RF lower control arm (noisy, not loose). $475.00
LF upper control arm-loose $400.00
Oil leaks from cam tensioner gaskets $1760.00
Both rear axle seals are leaking $415.00 for both
Squeak in the upper steering column $110.00 for diagnosis
Trans flush as a maintenance item $605.00 - note trans pan dented.
Isnt that great.
I told the authorized dealership that I just fixed the cam seals. They said to go back and tell them it is still leaking.
Not sure what to do at this point. Do I have any legal rights? There is a lemon law in the state where I live, but it only includes new and used cars that are still covered under warranty.
Do you think Audi can help me? Yes it is my fault that I didnt have some look my car over, and I have learned my lesson.
Just not sure what to do now.
Paid around 20-22 for the car. The place where I bought the car from told me they would give me 14 or possibly 15 if I fixed the transmission, but now when I talked to them today, they have changed their minds and are only offering $13.
Very ticked off. Will contact the attorney general and better business bureau if they cant help me with this. Terrible.
Any suggestions? Anything would be greatly appreciated.
airinga
If the dealer won't be cooperative, then I'd file complaints with every consumer agency and contact the press and even your local call for action organization, if you have one. :mad:
I hate the whole car buying process. I should have been very happy with this car, its the nicest car I have ever owned. I know you dont know what you are getting when it comes to previously owned cars, but this is ridiculous.
Called Audi today. They are checking into one of the recalls for the Front Lower Control Arm. I guess there are four arms on each wheel? Sounds like their is a major suspension problem with Audi, but only the Front LOWER control arm is covered with the recall. Of course the authorized Audi dealer where I brought my car to the other day, tells me that my lower control arm is just noisy-NOT LOOSE, so therefore they wont cover, claims the dealership. But my upper control arm IS loose, but of course that is not the arm that is covered by insurance. THis is the most ridiculous thing I have heard of. Unbelievable. This car is crap, and I cant wait to get rid of it.
The owner of the dealership where the car was purchased has responded to my letter, and he is thinking it over. Audi is calling the service dept of the authorized Audi dealer who did two of my recalls, but not the third, because it is just noisy...NOT LOOSE. please.
I love the car, but it's starting to hurt. I'm willing to suck it up because I love the car, but have a problem that no one seems to be able to solve.
It doesn't happen all the time, but when I depress the clutch pedal to start the car, nothing happens. The dealer said the battery had a bad cell and replaced it (ouch), but that didn't solve the problem.
I've read about problems with the ignition switch on the boards, but they say that's OK.
Is there a sensor or relay that's bad or going bad? The dealer says they can't replicate the problem when it's in the shop.
Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas?
thanks