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Comments
Anybody else had a similar issue come up and if so how was it resolved?
2005 Audi A6 3.2
Kevin
My good deal on a used Audi didn't turn out to be such a good deal.
I am having the work done at a dealership. It was convenient and they had the parts, and say they could do it in a day. It is my first trip to the shop with the car, so I wanted it checked thoroughly, but realize that I am probably paying more than at a smaller shop. Any guess what percentage more one pays to a dealership than to a "Euro cars" shop? Is it worth it? Just curious for future reference.
Good Luck.
I asked how long the repair might take -- the answer I got was predicated on having to "order the part". I'm beginning to hear this a lot at Audi dealerships. This was rarely the case with Acura or Lexus, who could get a part in hours, if it was not already there at the dealership.
What is Audi's "MO" -- modus operandi -- as it relates to stocking parts? Where in the USA are they stocked? (Assuming that they stock any over here). What's the deal with the slow parts turnaround times?
At present, Audi wants you to drive to the dealer (there and back -- one roundtrip) get the problem code diagnosed, then come back again (second roundtrip) on yet another day to get the part installed. Hey, we're talking about OUR time and money for all of this running around. This can easily add up to HOURS. Hours + gas = MONEY.
Audi is not making any friends with this policy. IMO, it's a shabby way to run a business, and a brand.
Free scheduled maintenance. Yeah, that may be free, but what about the unscheduled maintenance? What does that really cost?
Thanks for the above info. Very helpful.
Dealer ran the codes and determined the "sporadic" fault was in the right rear seat belt tensioner. They cleared the fault and reset it. "OK" now -- air bag light stays off. They said that if the light goes on again they will order and replace the part.
As the right rear seat is precisely where my first ever rear passenger sat, I have to assume that at the very least, they've identified the right spot.
You mentioned that your center rear seat unit was repeatedly defective and now the car is being replaced. What was the problem, in your opinion, and what explanations did Audi have? How many times did you have it repaired before they finally acknowledged your "lemon"?
My problem is with the center seat belt receptacle. I have had the entire buckle and assembly replaced, they took apart the center console to check a wire harness that connected the seat belt sensor to the airbag control unit. Mine would stay fixed for about 1,500 miles before someone would get back in the center seat and the light would come on again. I have had my car at the dealer for about 25 days spanning 4 different trips in the 9 months I have owned the car. I am a 1st time Audi owner, and I get the feeling that Audi isn't quite sure how to fix this problem as of yet. I was told that my problem is more than likely a "software" problem and that a "fix" is in the works, but that they wanted to resolve my problem now. They told me that they intended to make me a "happy" owner and to do what was right and I commend them for it.
I think it's going to take a few more trips and down time in order for Audi to step in. They are AWARE of the problem believe me, I'm sure they don't want to get in the habit of buying back cars regularly. I have been very impressed in my dealings with Audi over the issue and I will report back when I have the new car. Good Luck to you in the mean time.
Any suggestions? I'm afraid I might have a short, possibly in the steering column or turn signal switch.
did you find out what the problem was?
My A6 2.7T has just got the same problem.
thanks
Part # 8lo-953-513-j-o1c --turn signal switch
The first switch cost $29.90, the second,$65.07, the labor to install---$328.10.
Everything seems to be working fine now. I didn't need the second switch you mentioned, thankfully. I'll add it to my long list of annoying Audi problems.
Any solutions?
Thanks.
smithjsd
mobilejimbo@yahoo.com
Audi part # 4B1-837-063-A LOCK ZYL ------------$121.07
Labor to Install-------------------------------$289.50
Airfreight PART from Germany-------------------$20.00
Fixed the problem but now car has 2 keys, one for the ignition , and the new one for the door. Will only be an issue if the remote key FOB fails.
Any recommendations? This is our first German car. I am actually used to doing oil changes in our garage, for our Suburban and Nissan Maxima. Does any one know if Audi oil change requires special tools or consideration?
We discussed this very question here several weeks back. Basically there seem to be two schools of thought. One being to just follow the Audi scheduled maintenance and get it changed at 5K, 15K, 25K,35K and so on, and the other to change more frequently.
I happen to be in the latter camp. Being old school, I believe that it is important to dump the break-in oil long before 5,000 miles. You have little to lose and everything to gain as far as I am concerned. My plan was to change the break-in oil at 1,000 miles, though I ended up a tiny bit past that due to some dealership scheduling issues.
My opinion is that if you are planning to keep the car beyond the warranty period, then by all means spend a few extra bucks and get the oil changed more frequently.
I will be getting my oil changed at the 5,000 mile interval, and then every 5,000 miles thereafter, notwithstanding the free oil change from Audi every 10,000 miles. It's cheap insurance and peace of mind as far as I am concerned. Especially since so many of the "synthetic" oils on the market today are no longer true synthetics (chemically engineered vs. highly refined organic crude oil)
By the way, not all Audi dealerships charge $100 for an oil change; some are at $69.95 and some are at $89.95. On the high end was $140.00, at Beverly Hills Audi -- quite steep, though I will say to their credit you could chose from Castrol Syntec or Mobil One. Call around -- different dealers offer different oils and prices.
There is some additional news you may be interested in learning. A number of Audi dealers will soon start using a true, full synthetic oil, specially made to VW's precise 502.00 oil specification for this Audi model. Indeed, the oil was made for VW at VW's specific request. It's made by a big European oil company - TOTAL. The oil name brand is called ELF. Elf and Total enjoy a successful racing car tradition. The product is called Excellium LDX 5W40. It is designed for "vigorous" driving styles and for extended oil drain intervals. Everything I have read and heard suggests that it is a superlative oil, and IMO, far superior to Castrol Syntec, and even conventional Mobil One (only Extended Performance Mobil One is a true, full synthetic).
As for doing it yourself, I would suggest that you have the dealer do the first one, and you watch from afar. Changing the oil on this car is a whole different operation than a Japanese car. For starters, a very large plastic shield that protects the oil pan and motor area must be removed in order to gain access to the drain plug. I believe that the oil filter is accessed from above -- not below -- and the filter is a paper element only -- NOT a typical spin-on metal filter used in Japanese cars. Then of course, you know that the car takes about 9 quarts of oil!
One more thing: Just in case you or others were not made aware, Audi now requires a very specific grade and weight of oil for the A6; any other oil or grade that does not meet that spec could void the warranty! The specification is known as "VW 502.00". Be sure to double check that that is what's going in your car. Keep all service receipts, proving both the frequency of your oil changes and that you have used approved motor oils and Audi oil filters.
Very fishy! Sounds like a total rip-off to me. I would have them take the car to an independent Audi repair shop and have that shop assess what is and is not actually wrong with the car. Any replaced "bad" parts should be tagged and given to you and or Audi of America (AoA) for independent analysis.
I would also complain to AoA, and go straight to the top.
I am a bit skeptical as they do not have any details. There is an adapter kit around as of year end for A3 and A4s.
I do take my car in every 5000 miles for oil and a tire rotation. 5 years and 71K miles and I'm still very happy. I may trade in the future -- I've been saying that for a while. One recommendation though. Don't use your car to run short errands. These cars need to come up to full operating temperature every time they are driven. If you run a four mile errand, park the car and drive home you'll have trouble sooner than later.
Our family has gone for years to the local family owned oil change place (name escapes me). Once they only put 5 quarts of oil in our Jeep Grand Cherokee (6 quart capacity) but they're local and I let it go. When I asked about the Audi they told me I needed to notify them in advance so they could have the right filter on hand. So, thinking about my 6.3 quart capacity, I decided the dealer was the way to go. Not sure what it costs (don't care) but I'm happy with them.
Good luck - you'll like this car.
I'm trading a Certified 2001 A6 2.7T 6 speed, which has every available option, and which I bought at 14k. It now has 63k. I worried about reliability at the outset, but I've never had any unscheduled interruption during it's service life. The dealer did 5k oil changes within the warranty. at 34k seepage was noted on the rear main seal, which they replaced and also replaced the clutch and throw out bearing because they had gotten some oil on the plate. After the free 4yr/50k period. The computer signaled I needed an oil change after 7k/12months. As I understand it there is an algorithm that projects the interval based on time, mileage, rpm and temperatures. Oh yes, the pads and rotors needed replacing at 57k, but arguably they should have been replaced at 49.7k when the last in-warranty service was performed.
Prior to the A6, I owned a 1999 Audi A4 Avant. I had no problems with that vehicle. It was a 3 year lease return, bought at auction car with 23k, which I drove for a year up to 40k. I purchased a $1,300 full extended warranty (Wynn), which I never needed and got back all but $100 when I traded the car.
Generally, I prefer German cars and have historically owned BMW's and Mercedes. I also have a 2001 Porsche Boxster S with 16k--the protected child--and a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer--a more maintenance thirsty vehicle.
That's my two cents.
This is our first German car. I am also little confused about memory seat function. I would think that after I set my preference in memory 1, all I should have to do is press it once to retrive my setting. However, I have to hold the 1 button in until seat and outside mirrors stop moving. Is this normal?
And thanks to great feedback about my last post regarding break-in oil change.
As to the memory button, yes you have to hold it until it is finished moving (if you are sitting in the seat), otherwise, just push it once...
I have over 71K miles and take it in every 5K for oil. I agree with you 100% on the rationale for the recommended service interval. There was discussion on this board some time ago, and controversy too.
I'm not sure when I'll trade this in but it's likely I'll have it for at least another year bringing me to six years. As you say, it is a great road car and I like the 6-speed.
Why did he recommend "the full service interval"?
By "full interval" do you mean 5k or 10k miles?
How long ago did he tell you this?
btw - I went over 72K today. Still changing oil at 5,000 miles at the dealer. I don't run short errands - full operating temperature, 6 - 10 miles depending on outside temperature. I like to merge on the highway at a pretty good clip but only if water and oil temp is up.
Anybody else?
(2005 A6 3.2 Premium pkg w/Bose)
BTW, I'm still getting frequent warnings to update my satellite when on XM. It seems to get less frequent the longer I stay on XM but at 1st happens every 1-2 minutes... very frustrating. When I first got the car, I spoke with my SA and they sait it was normal and that it was just "linking with XM". I don't buy that but can't find any other explanations either...
-Paul
One more question: It didn't come with any manuals, I asked the person the send them to me, and he said he would, but I haven't got them. A message on the car keeps showing up, and I really don't understand it. It's a circle with a square at the top, I'm not sure what that means. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Make sure you change the oil w/ synthetic, I use Mobil 1 0w-40, it works well. Check all fluids weekly, including oil, brake, power steering, and coolant.You DO NOT want any of the fluid levels in this car to go below minimum levels, this could mean big repair bills. Check your tire pressures and also replace the air filter as well.
Good luck!
I have to wonder if this is an indication of another problem like a dying battery. I believe the trunk lock in involved because this yellow indicator light will disappear when the trunk lock is moved into "Position C" which is when the key has the lock in the 2 o'clock position. Unfortunately, the lock cannot remain in this position. Does anyone have any idea what could cause all this? I'm very confused and I want to resolve this before I have a remote starter installed.
Sludge is always a possibility. You need to dig into this problem ASAP and see what's what.