Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado

12467…17

Comments

  • paul555paul555 Member Posts: 8
    Here is some information on the engine knocking problem with GMs V8s.


    http://www.gmpistonslap.cjb.net/

  • mtrammellmtrammell Member Posts: 125
    Martin,

    My 2002 2500HD has the G80 Eaton Locker from the factory. Once it locks, there is no "limited slip". Here is Eaton's brief description of the locker's operation.

    ***********************
    We'll start by pointing out that the Locker is a speed sensitive design. That is, it reacts to wheel slip by sensing when one wheel is spinning substantially faster than the other.

    So, when you're cruising along on clean dry pavement, the locker operates like any regular open differential.

    But, as soon as wheel slip happens, going forward or reverse, the locker immediately kicks in. Here's how.

    The differential is set up with a flyweight governor that responds to differences in wheel speeds, and disc packs that are mounted between the side gear and the case.

    Whenever one wheel is spinning substantially faster than the other, the governor spins rapidly, causing the flyweight to open. That flyweight then catches on a latching bracket and the lockup process begins.

    During lockup, a self-energized clutch system causes a cam plate to ramp against a side gear. This ramping action compresses those disc packs mentioned earlier. The ramping continues until both axles - and therefore both wheels - are spinning at the same speed. This is full lock, and it prevents any further wheel slip. (Note: Axle lockup can only occur at speeds below 20 mph.)

    The entire lockup process takes about a split second, and is virtually unnoticeable by the average driver. When both wheels regain traction, unlocking occurs and things go back to normal.
  • truckluvertruckluver Member Posts: 11
    If you adjust the torsion bars does that affect the alignment?
    I own a 02 1500 HD, do you adjust the front torsion bars the same as you do the an 00, 01.
    I am also starting to feel a little rattle through the steering column, has anyone else experienced this?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    performed after tinkering with the torsion bars. The rattling in the steering shaft is considered normal. Take it in to the dealer and they will slap some grease on it to "quiet" it down.
  • mtrammellmtrammell Member Posts: 125
    Jim,


    The steering column rattle is not normal in the 1500HD and 2500HD and GM has recognized this. Here is a link to GM's TechLink for July. You will need Adobe Acrobat to read it. When the article displays, click on Steering Column Rattle in the left hand bookmark column. The fix is a new bearing in the steering box.


    http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200207-en.pdf#dst01

  • dmaxwellhdmaxwellh Member Posts: 11
    I was looking at the sticker price on a new Silverado and GM was charging $50 for a rear axle with a 4.10 ratio. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could explain to me what this means and why someone would want it! Thanks in advance.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    A 4.10 axle ratio means the wheels turn around once for every 4.10 times the driveshaft turns around. This gives more power to the wheels than a ratio of 3.73 or 3.42. I does mean the engine turns faster than with the other ratios mentioned, but that is a minor effect on fuel economy.

    Mike L
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    from a start on wet pavement, at what point would it unlock if holding full throttle? Also what is the website that has detailed specs on trucks curb weight and other ? thanks
  • xyz71xyz71 Member Posts: 179
    As far as I can tell the differential stays locked until you let off on the gas or until you have regained traction - I have kept both wheels spinning for almost a full block (wet black top)No way the differential unlocks at 20 MPH.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    To add to Mike's comments, if you intend to use the truck for towing the lower ratio (higher number) is better because, as Mike writes, power (torque) to the rear wheels is more greatly multiplied. One more point to consider though: I ordered my truck with 3.73 knowing larger tires than OEM was a definite must, which means that the ratio is effectively raised. I believed at the time that one size bigger would not produce a very significant decrease in power. I was wrong. It was disappointing to notice a definite reduction in throttle response and a busier transmission, more down-shifting up hills. If either of these points apply to you go with 4.10.

    -David

    Also, a note about Bilsteins on 2500HD's. There's a very noticeable improvement over OEM, but I'm not sure you couldn't do the same thing with something less expensive (longevity aside).
  • allchevyallchevy Member Posts: 28
    I've noticed rear sway bars on Suburbans and Tahoes, how come never on a Silverado pickup?
    Anyone out there seen or have one?
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Two possible reasons:

    First, the SUV's use different suspension and are driven more like cars than the pickups are.

    Second, the SUV's weigh more empty, and are more likely to have weight added up high, where the PU's have more weight added right on the bed. When PU's have campers added, usually they get an aftermarket sway bar to help control the mass.

    Mike L
  • allchevyallchevy Member Posts: 28
    Thanks Mike
    that explains it!
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    2500 HD reg cab 4x4 , Light met. blue
    with black fender flares. Looked ok !
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    rolled over 30K miles :)
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    a hair of 20K Had 14,000 miles on it until 3 1/2 weeks ago. Denver-OH-PA-ME-NH-RI-KY and back home took care of that real quick. Service 4WD light started coming on intermittently 37 miles from home on the way out. Ignored it; ran fine; probably ought to go have that checked out now. Also ran it on premium the whole way with the HP-III program in it that I use at home. Ran noticeably better than last year's 2500 mile trip when I retuned it to 87 Oct for the trip. For anyone who uses DeLorme maps, Eartha really does exist, and boy is it ever impressive!
    -- Don
  • jeymanjeyman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 K1500HD with 6000 miles. In hot outdoor conditions, running at highway speeds, with the A/C on, the breather hose for the front differantial leaks gear oil. It runs down on the engine block and into the wheel well being blown out on the body of the truck. This of course gives the truck the look and smell of a machine much older than several months. I have had the truck looked at by two dealers and both have not fixed the problem. The hose has been replaced twice. I have been informed GM has been contacted about the problem to no avail. Does any one have any experence comparable to this or any ideas to combat the problem. (I have the hose in a plastic bottle to keep it from leaking.)
    Please excuse the run on sentences and one long paragraph for I am a product of a public school!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Well it has been just about a yr (13 months) since my truck has been in the shop. Next wk i go back to school and i am at 30K miles so i thought id get my squeaky steering wheel looked at. Also the service advisor suggested awhile back to get the throttle body cleaned around 30K so i figured id let them do that. Heres how it went

    Squeaky steering wheel (when making turns)

    Remove steering wheel and airbag
    Disassemble steering wheel column upper
    inspect for rubbing noise
    lube steering shaft support bearings and pivot points (about a yr and a half ago i had the steering shaft replaced)
    reassemble

    Ill be darned but the steering is once again TIGHT. No looseness whatsoever and the noise is gone feels much better cant even believe it feels like a brand new truck again

    As for the throttle body they just replaced it under warranty (part #: 17113665). Can definitly feel a difference in the pep of the motor.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Sounds like your dealer is a good one, to replace the throttle body no questions and resolve the sqeaky steering, more kudos.
    I now have 33k and getting ready to buy the 7yr/100k Warranty Gold Diamond Plan. I know the tranny won't last till 100k, since I bought the new travel trailer, but I'll have the truck for 10 years. I don't trust GM to cover the engine either even though I got the garbage component extension warranty from them. If they won't fix it now why would they honor it later. Did here a odd high pitch sound coming from underneath the truck when I got back from Canada on Monday, don't know what it was and it's gone now. Engine still makes a hell of a racket on start up, especially after Iv'e been towing the trailer, after sitting over night, it has definately gotten louder but gone in a minute or two after start up. Well when I sell it down the road I'll just have to make sure it's warm before anyone hears it or tell them it's a Duramax wanna be 5.3. LOL

    Ray T.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Join us NOW for a chat with Brent Romans -- everything trucks! 8 pm ET/5 pm PT.


    Click here!

    http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    where did you buy the warranty from? How much (if i may ask)? I am thinking about buying one but dont know. Is theor special plans like just for the drivetrain (trans?)

    I have a little over 30K with very minor problems (knock on wood).
  • gm02gm02 Member Posts: 49
    Have an 02 ext cab 4.8, 3.73 Rado and due to a transmission problem on our GM van(Montana) we were forced to take the trck on the vacation trip. About a 500 mile trip and the trck was great. Have only 2,500 miles on it now but no squeaks, rattles, shakes and no knocks(except on wood) it stays like this for the next 200K miles. Wife & kids were very impressed on how wonderful it was to be riding in it!
    What a great truck!
    By the end of this week I'll have the front end completed on some modifications, bumper cover, speed grill and grill shell being painted....I'll see if I can learn how to post pictures here and put out a couple.
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    Got this information directly form the dealer...

    GMPP is one of the easiest warranties to use at the dealership... The dealership has a $400.00 markup on the cost of the ext warranty.

    A 4yr 100,000 Major Gaurd (everything except trim) zero deductable is $2,240.00 on a 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd. Dealer cost on this is $1,840.00. This is again 4 years from the date of purchase. I got mine for $100 over dealer cost.

    I asked about the 7yr, 100,000 zero deductable warranty and it runs basically $5,000.00.
    The dealer will also set up direct withdrawl on your checking account to make payments over a period up to 18 months.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I have the 6/100 no deductible Major Guard courtesy of GM. After reading what's covered and what isn't....you begin to wonder. Weatherstripping? Forget it. Cross members? Forget that too. In fact, I strongly recommend you read exactly what's covered by Major Guard. You may be in for a big surprise.

    gator36

    Assuming you're a low mileage driver, what you've just stated above is that you paid $1,940.00 for an additional year of "piece of mind". How does that work for you?
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    Based on mileage it works perfect.

    Last truck I had I made sure the warranty paid in spades...
    You are the exception by getting the major gaurd for free..

    Just remember an AC control head is over $600.00
    Almost one issue with the trans will pay for the whole thing.
    A atarter? How much is one of those?
    How about having to replace a component in the front drivetrain?

    Walter
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You do 100k miles in 4 years?
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    July 20, 2001 through now, 34,600 miles and running.

    Wonderful Southern California driving. We go everywhere.... From San Diego to Northern CA al the way to Dallas Fort Worth...
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Here's the quote that I got for several different versions based on the info I gave them, what I like the most is the contract goes into effect the day they get your payment it's not an add to the OEM bumper to bumper, so say I have 35k on truck and purchase the 7/100, I get 7 years or 100k from that date (or 135k by time contract expires on the odometer)......This may be the version I go for since long range plan is to keep truck for 10 years. With this piston slap issue it may very well come in handy cuz GM ain't gonna do anything for us! Now the cats butt would be to get GM to pay for this policy since they won't honor any warranty they issued to date ! Hmmmm wonder how I could make this happen, letter to N.Y. State Attorney General about consumer fraud for failure to honor 3yr/36k for piston slap issue.!


    2000 CHEVROLET 2500


      8 cylinders

      Rear Wheel

      32000 miles


     Plan: New Diamond


     Years/Miles Amount

      5 - 100 $1180

      5 - 150 $1604

      6 - 100 $1204

      7 - 100 $1254


    These prices are paid in full with a $50 deductible. This price will be

    valid through the end of the month.

    Here's the link to the company, they supposedly offer the best aftermarket policy out there. http://www.warrantygold.com


    Ray T.

  • mtrammellmtrammell Member Posts: 125
    Just purchased Warranty Gold's 5yr/150k zero deductable Diamond plan for $1500. This plan is, for the most part, the same as the mfg warranty. It excludes normal wear/tear items such as batteries, tires, shocks, etc. There are only 27 exluded items in my contract. The price varies based on where you live. I live in the Austin TX area where rates are pretty high.

    Also, Warranty Gold is rated #1.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    GM's warranty (3/36) includes batteries, shocks, tires......
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    When you read the contract, does it indicate that they will replace failed parts with new or used?
    The coverage by Lithia and First Extended Service on a failed transmission is to replace with a used unit from an auto wrecker. Not repaired. Used unit replacement. I was, and still am not, positively impressed.
    Bottom Line. Don't be surprised. If the used unit gets you down the road the same as the original, I guess it's all good.
  • ivpushivpush Member Posts: 4
    Anyone else experience this. I thought there was a TSB on this, but I can't find it and the dealer thought it was on 1999 models only. I only have 800 miles left under warranty. It is not a big deal, but I have to slam the rear doors several times to get them to latch completly.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    email me at ryanb0928@yahoo.com

    I have that TSB in word format and can send it to you
  • mugstermugster Member Posts: 16
    3rd and 4th Door Hard to Close When Cold (Replace Latches) #00-08-64-016

    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    Condition
    Some customers may comment that the 3rd or 4th door is hard to close when cold.

    Cause
    There was a change to an internal bumper in the latch and the removal of the primary door seal internal plug.

    Correction
    Verify proper alignment between the upper and lower striker before proceeding to the next step.
    Replace the upper and lower latch assemblies using the part numbers listed below. Refer to the Doors sub-section of the Service Manual.


    Remove the primary door seal internal plug across from the lower latch assembly.
    Parts Information
    Part Number Description
    15057687 Latch Asm - LH Upper
    15057688 Latch Asm - RH Upper
    15063698 Latch Asm - Lower

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Description Labor Time
    B4650 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Right Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
    B4652 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Left Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
  • ivpushivpush Member Posts: 4
  • k2riderk2rider Member Posts: 21
    I don't mean "how much did you pay", but how much over invoice? I know when I bought our last truck, we basically could go in with a "we'll pay X amount over invoice" concept.

    We're looking into the 2003 2500HD with Duramax/Allison and the sticker on those babies is SCARY. They are $6-7 thousand over invoice. I refuse to pay that amount.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    2000 Ext cab LS Z71 $500 under invoice
  • allchevyallchevy Member Posts: 28
    They don't negotiate on the diesels.
    $500 over invoice is availble on the gas trucks at a motivated dealer.
    Good luck-Chevy quality is way down.
  • donjbakerdonjbaker Member Posts: 27
    HELP!!!!!

    Just got back from a short road trip (600 Miles) - but had to complete with a rental car.

    I have a 2002 2500 HD with 6000 engine and the 4 sp auto. Purchased last October with 10,400 Miles.

    Going down I80 Sunday nite with Cruise set @ 75 MPH and all of sudden the Truck red lines. I shut the truck off and coast to the shoulder. Start it up with no problems, but when I put it in drive - nothing - no reverse either. Tried in 4 high & low.

    Had it towed (Roadside approved & then canceled tow) to Yemm Chevrolet (51 miles) in Galesburg @ my $$$$. Called the dealer Monday Morning and was told that it doesn't move - must be a problem with the trans (DA). Tuesday afternoon they push it in the garage - still don't know what is wrong - have to follow Chevy's procedure - has not taken it apart.

    The dealer and Customer assistance is blaming each other and not providing any answers (or commitment for rebursement).

    Has any one heard of this problem?

    Should the complete trans be replaced?

    Do I have to worry about the engine with the high RPM's?

    Any information on the process for the "lemon Law" in Illinois?

    Loved it before the problems, but ?????
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Dump it and get a manual....
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Mug: Thanks for the posting of the TSB on the doors, I printed it and added it to the file for my truck on the "things to do before warranty expiration"

    K2: 2000 Silverado Ext.Cab 2500 LS 2wd - $500 under inv.$26500 w/tx/title etc., ordered thru a dealer in nearby Connecticut. See my profile for how I equipped my truck.

    DonJ: You payed for a tow with the 3/36 warranty still in effect??? Wrong thing to do! As you now know cause your fighting to get your money back for a covered expense! Then again the warranty covers a tow to the "nearest dealer", 51 miles sounds like you passed by a few GM dealers but maybe I'm wrong. More then likely you will get a rebuilt tranny from GM (they take it to a shop or have the tranny brought to them to replace, or if your lucky they give you a brand new one outta the crate). There should be no engine problems since you shut the truck down immediately as you should have. Illinois lemon law? go to your State Attorney Generals Office webpage to download the forms and see whats involved. I don't think this one incident will qualify you for the lemon law.

    Ray T.
  • ivpushivpush Member Posts: 4
    I noticed rail dust on my 2000 silverado in may 01. The dealer clay barred it and it was fine. This summer, I noticed it was back. I have my truck at the dealer for last minute warranty work (35400 miles) and mentioned it to the dealer(different dealer than did the original fix)and they said GM only allows them one time to fix it and after that, I'm on my own. I called GM customer service. She called the original dealer and they have a record of diaagnosing rail dust, but not that they clay barred it. However, he said it was out of the 12 month/12,000 warranty. I said that YOU have record of rail dust when it was in that time frame. He said it didn't matter(things like this are why I am at another dealer). The regional manager is coming to town tomorrow and the dealer guy said he would ask the reg. mgr. if it should be covered.
    In my mind, this is not right and it should be taken care of. Also, the dealer mentioned nothing before about neutralizing it, just clay barring it. IF I let this go (if they don't neutralize/buff it), will this cause sheet metal problems or just cosmetic (white truck)?
    Thank You
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    WOW...you had to pay for a tow ?
    My 94 GMC Yukon died in Alex Bay NY and
    Gm flatbedded it to Fulton NY GMC dealer
    where I bought it(over 100 miles) no charge !
    And I didn't ask them too either ??????
    .....geo
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    If the regional manager approves the dealer claying your truck it would be a matter of goodwill. It would be hard to prove that the raildust you're describing is two years old. Same goes for hail.

    I would just go out and buy a bar of Mother's and clay the truck myself and add a couple of coats of wax. Isn't that hard to do vs. banging against the wall trying to get GM to do it.

    Just my opinion.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    i agree do it yourself if you can. You probably will do a way better job anyways
  • imaginosimaginos Member Posts: 27
    I just caught up on the message board and saw the posts about the rear doors being hard to close - TSB - etc.

    Mine seem to close on my 01 1500 Ext Cab, however, they don't always completely latch. They look latched and the door panels line up, but, if you don't get it fully latched - with the front door still open - you can pull on the upper section of the door (near the upper latch) or sometimes the lower section of the door (near the lower latch) and if not fully latched, you'll be able to pull the door away from the latch about 1/4 to 1/2 inch - tugging aggressively. If it is fully latched, neither the top or the bottom of the doors will budge. I think this has been getting worse over time, especially on the driver's side rear door since I open it about 4 times a day.

    Is this similar to the cold latch problem? Is there any adjustment that can be made?

    Also, I'm trying to nail this down for sure, but I think that if I hit significant wash-board bumps, or go over man-hole covers just right, I'm pretty sure that the upper latch on the rear driver's side door unlatches - going into the same state as what I explained above. Still trying to verify this for sure. Sure seems like the doors are all getting looser, not latching as tight, and going over bumps, I hear lots of bad rattle noises from them - as if not fully shut - not just the crap inside rattling. Just don't think it's well designed. Anyone else noticing this?

    Last point. My brother just bought a new GMC 1500, and as I opened his door, there was a lot more un-latch force on the door handle. As if it latches much tighter than mine. Is there a way to adjust this to make the latch hold the door tighter - this is regarding the front doors mosttly?
  • mantos1mantos1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my truck 2002 Sivarado LT 2500HD Duramax Diesel for $500 over invoice. They tried to charge me marketing and advertising fees but I refused to pay that overhead cost.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    my doors latch very tight except in cold weather. The rear doors wont close all the time. I have even had the rear drivers side door bounce back when i slammed it. Didnt latch at all. After 5 slams it usually seals up tight. Ill probably take it in this winter when it happens since i am almost to the 36K mile warranty being up
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    Is anyone aware of a driveline clunk with 2000 Silverado’s or is it just me?
    I have an automatic trans. that makes a clunking noise whenever the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released. Is this normal?
    Any comments are welcome.
    Thanks
    Canayjun64
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    We have a dealer here in Charleston, SC that does $98.00 over invoice and then charges a $179.00 advertising fee on top of that.

    Last year they sold 1200 trucks and only 70 cars.
    Very easy to deal with and a very good reputation.

    Last year I bought my Impala from them and after finding out that there was $1000 dealer cashback that the other dealer had not told me about.
    Marchant not only told me about it, they had "$1000 cashback" painted on the windshield!

    After I bought the car i found that there had been some paint work done on the driver's side door at the factory. I went to talk to them about it, and they had another car sitting there for me in case I wanted to change!!! I decided to keep the car I had because of the later build date.

    www.marchantchevy.com
    Ravenel, SC.
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles