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Comments
Tow on occasion 32 ft boat, 28 ft
camper. Upstate NY ...tonneau cover , AC
on,loaded down, 10 mpg..Snowplowing ,
running constently 8 mpg. Banging around
town unloaded, ac on 13-14mpg. Highway
unloaded, ac , cruise on.. Best 18 mpg
..........geo
Thanks for the advice. I took off the rear shocks as you suggested and drove around the block. They were the source of the squeek, and it turned out the top mounting bolts weren't tight enough. I gave them another 3/4 turn or so and now all is quiet. That was an impressive squeek though - truck sounded like a WWII tank.
But, even if the 6.0 only got 15mpg you would be hard pressed to ever pay for the diesel upgrade with fuel savings. Diesel - $4K + Allison tranny $1K = $5K. Factor in the additional maintainence of the diesel and you usually have to drive 100-150K miles to break even. If you plan on keeping the truck that long, or you plan on towing heavier loads, the diesel might make sense. Until then, you're money ahead to drive the 6.0.
Mike L
http://www.fia.com/homepage/selection-a.html
It lists, by country, most of the automotive museums in Europe. If you are going to visit, print the lists for the countries you will visit ahead of time.
Mike L
-David
"This is information only"
I Brought the truck in to the dealer for the replacement of the "improved" nickel plated slip yoke. Problem still there. There is no significant difference with the improved yoke compare with the old.
...Canayjun64
Syracuse paper today.........
I've read a lot of posts on this, and the original fix by GM was to replace the output yoke with a new nickel yoke. I was told by the svc.mgr. that they aren't doing this anymore, because GM says it's an inherent noise. In other words, they don't know what causes it, so they've thrown up their hands.
I just checked alldata, and the TSB for replacing the yoke is still there, so I'm going to show it to the svc.mgr.
There is also a discussion board in here under GM Engine Knock
Ray T.
the fuel rails and injectors ! Not lifter
tap....Took mine in for that and cold start
knock ! Mechanic whipped out stethoscope
and sho' nuff it was the fuel system.
Now the cold start knock thats another
story although now thats its summer the
cold start knock went away !....geo
Ray T.
Some knowledgeable sources have told me it is caused by the "crush sleave" in the rear-end. In order to assemble a rear-end without having to have an assembler make a measurement of the pinion to ring-gear lash, then select a shim to go behind the pinion before the shaft goes through the bearing, a crush sleave is inserted to collapse a fixed amount. The first time the rear-end fully loaded the pinion moves away. For racing purposes the gear lash is measured and a sleave is machined to fit and the ring-gear is smimmed.
They have repeatedly declined to fix mine, '01 1500 RC LB 3.42 w/locker.
They hope it last long enough to get past warranty!
Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
Driveline Clunk
2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
Important
The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
This is what I found in one TSB. They wash their hands of it here:
The following noises are characteristic of all braking systems and are unavoidable. They may not indicate improper operation of the brake system.
Squeak/squeal Noise
Occurs with front semi-metallic brake pads at medium speeds when light to medium pressure is applied to the brake pedal.
Occasionally a noise may occur on rear brakes during the first few stops or with cold brakes and/or high humidity.
----------------------------------------------
Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance
Canayjun64
P.S. It was however, quite educational.
The confusion I mentioned enters on a couple of fronts and one is not being able to qualify a tires "all-season" performance (which is what I want and priced around $80-120ea) because it seems it's up to interpretation and/or a buyers opinion...an we buyers sometimes don't know squat.
Is anyone able to point me to a good tire for all-road, all-season driving at $80-120 each? I've checked out Dunlop Radial Rover A/T, Goodyear Fortera HL, Bridgestone Dueler H/L, Michelin LTX M/S, Uniroyal HD/H Nailguard, etc. and I can't seem to get a straight answer on any of them.
Currently I am running Yokohama Geolander AT II's
These are rated at 40,000 miles with a warranty.
I do alot of highway driving and alot of off-road.
These have been excellent. Especially in my snow encounters... (I have to go look for it as I live in Southern cal.)
I have 285/75/16's and they run great...
These willbe at the high end of your range in price..
You may want to check out the Pirelli Scorpions as well. These I had on my last truck just before I sold it. They are nice tires with all around excellent handling charastics.
I hope this helps you ...
Walter (Gator)
Also, the 255/70-16's aren't too big for my wheel-well are they?? How big can I go on the OEM wheels? Thanks.
Max size would be either 275/70R16 or 285/75R16.
Rattle coming up through steering wheel. Said they corrected problem, it came back 3 weeks later. Will be taking back in soon and will let
you know what they say.
Go to the following link. You will need Adobe Acrobat to view the GM TechLink document. Scroll down to page 2 and read the article on Steering Wheel Rattle - see if this is the problem you are experiencing. I had to make a copy of this article and take it to the dealership before they would replace the bearing. The dealer lubed the intermediate shaft, then replaced the intermediate shaft and the rattle persisted. Finally they replaced the bearing. The rattle completely disappeared and has not returned for 5K miles now.
http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200207-en.pdf#dst01
Mike .T.
Mike .T.
Just looking for a starting point.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
All the info you need. But you must
have employee SS# to access the site
to get prices etc.......
I have read elsewhere that GMO price
is no longer less ? GMO price on my
01 truck was only $380 cheaper GMO.
I wanted that Black badboy 2500 on
the lot TODAY ! Remember on GMO/GMS
YOU NO pay those adv. fees either !
GMO/GMS prices are the same....
Only 1 price will be on invoices and
GM Family plan info,,,,,,,,,,,geo