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Chevy Silverado

13468917

Comments

  • krigsbykrigsby Member Posts: 2
    What I'm towing, both engines can handle. I only tow about 8 times a year. My concern is fuel economy when not pulling anything (96% of the time). I hear the diesel gets about 18, what about the 6.0 w/ 4.10. How does it do? Thoughts?
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    01 2500 xcab 4x4 ld here. 6.0 auto, 4:10s
    Tow on occasion 32 ft boat, 28 ft
    camper. Upstate NY ...tonneau cover , AC
    on,loaded down, 10 mpg..Snowplowing ,
    running constently 8 mpg. Banging around
    town unloaded, ac on 13-14mpg. Highway
    unloaded, ac , cruise on.. Best 18 mpg
    ..........geo
  • ahlgren1ahlgren1 Member Posts: 2
    Mike L,

    Thanks for the advice. I took off the rear shocks as you suggested and drove around the block. They were the source of the squeek, and it turned out the top mounting bolts weren't tight enough. I gave them another 3/4 turn or so and now all is quiet. That was an impressive squeek though - truck sounded like a WWII tank.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    My 6.0 4x4 has averaged 14-15 since new - all of those miles are loaded with a popup camper. I would expect 17-18 empty.

    But, even if the 6.0 only got 15mpg you would be hard pressed to ever pay for the diesel upgrade with fuel savings. Diesel - $4K + Allison tranny $1K = $5K. Factor in the additional maintainence of the diesel and you usually have to drive 100-150K miles to break even. If you plan on keeping the truck that long, or you plan on towing heavier loads, the diesel might make sense. Until then, you're money ahead to drive the 6.0.

    Mike L
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Just ran across this site:


    http://www.fia.com/homepage/selection-a.html


    It lists, by country, most of the automotive museums in Europe. If you are going to visit, print the lists for the countries you will visit ahead of time.


    Mike L

  • krigsbykrigsby Member Posts: 2
    My fifth wheel that I have now is pushing 8000lbs. If one day I ever decide to upgrade to something around 10k, I may want to go with the diesel.
  • mentor34mentor34 Member Posts: 60
    I've got a 2002 2500HD, and in my admittedly biased opinion, Chevy made a mistake eliminating the distinguishing hood design from the '03 HD's. A 1500 now looks no different than a HD, and I kind of liked it when there was a difference. Any other thoughts out there?
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Agree. I also have an '02' HD and wouldn't trade straight across for the same thing in an '03' for that reason. I do like some of the improvements though. BTW, anyone have or know anyone with 4W steering? And did composite beds ever actually hit the street?

    -David
  • abedulerabeduler Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I saw one yesterday after I bought my 02 1500HD Crew. Plastic bed outside with a VERY hard bed inside. The thing will definatly not ding up. The only way the bed will be hurt is if it cracks/breaks. I like it, good option to get. Wish I would've.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I may be wrong but the composite bed is only available on 1500 Z71s
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    In reference to messages 200, 202 and 203 of this post.
    "This is information only"
    I Brought the truck in to the dealer for the replacement of the "improved" nickel plated slip yoke. Problem still there. There is no significant difference with the improved yoke compare with the old.
    ...Canayjun64
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    New 03 Chevy Quad steers---$27xxx adv. in
    Syracuse paper today.........
  • topsail33topsail33 Member Posts: 19
    I had my '00 4x4 ext cab 1500 in about 2 mo. ago for the popular clunk that is heard when you step on the gas, especially after either having been braking, or turning. They lubed the splines of the shaft, which worked for about 2 weeks.

    I've read a lot of posts on this, and the original fix by GM was to replace the output yoke with a new nickel yoke. I was told by the svc.mgr. that they aren't doing this anymore, because GM says it's an inherent noise. In other words, they don't know what causes it, so they've thrown up their hands.

    I just checked alldata, and the TSB for replacing the yoke is still there, so I'm going to show it to the svc.mgr.
  • topsail33topsail33 Member Posts: 19
    I have what sounds like a lifter tapping at idle only. When you step on the gas, it goes away. Anyone else have this? I didn't see any TSB's for it, so it's probably an isolated thing. I'm using the correct oil viscosity and it's not too full or too low (3 things that can cause the noise).
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Go here to learn more about your lifter tap, you may be surprised... http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/gmpistonslap/


    There is also a discussion board in here under GM Engine Knock

    Ray T.

  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    What your hearing is the fuel pulsing thru
    the fuel rails and injectors ! Not lifter
    tap....Took mine in for that and cold start
    knock ! Mechanic whipped out stethoscope
    and sho' nuff it was the fuel system.
    Now the cold start knock thats another
    story although now thats its summer the
    cold start knock went away !....geo
  • jimtncjimtnc Member Posts: 36
    I've been trying to find the OEM 235/75-16 tires that came on my truck, but no one carries them...can be ordered, but not on hand. Has anyone run into this and what did you do? Would appreciate your thoughts. Apologize if this is wrong forum. Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    go one size bigger....245/75R16
  • jimtncjimtnc Member Posts: 36
    that's what I was thinking also. Would there be any problem keeping 235's on the back and new 245's on the front (same axle) for a couple of months until I can get the other two? Shouldn't affect driving, should it?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    That is not recommended, you could throw off the handling, braking charicteristics by doing so, why only buy 2 if you need 4 ?? If you must, put the larger size tires in the rear till you can replace the fronts with same size.

    Ray T.
  • fdhd27fdhd27 Member Posts: 2
    i've a 02' 2500hd. has anyone else had problems with squeaking window noise when is initially rolled down? the noise goes away when the window is rolled far enough down from the weather stripping. this only occurs in front windows. the back windows are fine. the dealer said it was dust but i'm not so convince.
  • am70043am70043 Member Posts: 22
    When replacing OEM tires P235/75-16 on a 1/2 ton 2WD, what is the largest size tire you can go with before any computer reprograming is needed.
  • arttartt Member Posts: 14
    There is another cause of the CLUNK. The TSB is below.
    Some knowledgeable sources have told me it is caused by the "crush sleave" in the rear-end. In order to assemble a rear-end without having to have an assembler make a measurement of the pinion to ring-gear lash, then select a shim to go behind the pinion before the shaft goes through the bearing, a crush sleave is inserted to collapse a fixed amount. The first time the rear-end fully loaded the pinion moves away. For racing purposes the gear lash is measured and a sleave is machined to fit and the ring-gear is smimmed.
    They have repeatedly declined to fix mine, '01 1500 RC LB 3.42 w/locker.
    They hope it last long enough to get past warranty!

    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
    Driveline Clunk
    2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
    Important
    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
    Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
    Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
    While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • topsail33topsail33 Member Posts: 19
    My 00 4x4 ext cab 4.8 is about up on warranty. I took it in to have them check brakes. They say they're fine. They are very loud when cold and braking lightly. No TSB on it, but I did find a mention in another TSB about the squeaking being normal w/ semi-metallic pads. Is there any cure other than pad replacement and rotor turning?

    This is what I found in one TSB. They wash their hands of it here:

    The following noises are characteristic of all braking systems and are unavoidable. They may not indicate improper operation of the brake system.

    Squeak/squeal Noise

    Occurs with front semi-metallic brake pads at medium speeds when light to medium pressure is applied to the brake pedal.

    Occasionally a noise may occur on rear brakes during the first few stops or with cold brakes and/or high humidity.
  • topsail33topsail33 Member Posts: 19
    I found that same TSB and a paragpraph from it below, is another "towel" for them to wash their hands of it... My clunking isn't coming from a stop; it's when you let off the gas to slow down and then step on it again. The crap below is just plain embarrassing. It's telling the world they don't want to machine parts to any particular standard; they just want to slap them together and sell sell sell. I really like the truck. I wish GM liked it as much.
    ----------------------------------------------
    Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
    While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    Good point topsail. I think you've explained the situation better than I did when you quoted: (it's when you let off the gas to slow down and then step on it again) I like the truck too but I’m giving up on it (the clunk that is). I’ve got no other choice but to live with it. I've read tons of articles and posts about this and I'm beginning to believe that this will never be resolved. Here at my end ...I'm closing this chapter. The heck with it!
    Canayjun64
    P.S. It was however, quite educational.
  • jimtncjimtnc Member Posts: 36
    thanks rayt2, I was gonna put them on the front, but the back may be better. The tire guy down the road said it shouldn't matter if they're on the same axle, but I'll try the back and see.
  • crash269crash269 Member Posts: 9
    I too have heard that noise in my '02 1500. Had read before that it may have been due to the u-joints in the drive shaft never being properly greased causing premature wear, hard to pinpoint the location if you're the only one that knows about it....glad to hear others with that (now I know I'm not the only one). There is a "differential only" mechanic here in San Diego that does lots of work for SCORE trucks...I'll take mine by and ask his opinion and let you all know what I find out.
  • ihategmihategm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Silverado 5.7L with 54,000 miles. The coolant reservoir always seems to be low (past the "cold" mark). It also has what appears to dried coolant coming out the top where the overlfow tube is, like it burping out all the time. I don't see any leaks on the ground where the truck is parked, and the oil appears normal. Now, it may be my imagination, but I think I may be eating oil too. Could I have a faulty radiator cap? Any thoughts?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    overflow tube which leaks only under pressure which may explain why you show no leaks under truck. Only other way maybe leaking through the head gasket. How does the oil look?
  • tfstfs Member Posts: 12
    My truck has 64 k, want to change tranny fluid , have u guys done it? What is involved? Is there an internal filter? Is there a specific type of tranny fluid? How may qts? Also, have any of u replaced the xfer case fluid as well? Any other maintenance items I should be doing at 64k? I have cleaned plugs, replaced air filter at 30 k intervals, and changed oil (m1 5w30) at 5k intervals. Nothing else needed.- thanks for any info- Regards, Tom S
  • jimtncjimtnc Member Posts: 36
    Truck came with 235/75-16's, but I've decided to go up to the 245/75-16's. I'm going nuts trying to decide which tire would give me the performance for the best price. I've checked everywhere, but I'm just getting more confused. One thing I'm not confused about is the tread-burning Wranglers I've been buying for some time. This tire isn't too bad, but I can't get 30,000 mi outta them with constant rotation and under 24,000 mi.
    The confusion I mentioned enters on a couple of fronts and one is not being able to qualify a tires "all-season" performance (which is what I want and priced around $80-120ea) because it seems it's up to interpretation and/or a buyers opinion...an we buyers sometimes don't know squat.

    Is anyone able to point me to a good tire for all-road, all-season driving at $80-120 each? I've checked out Dunlop Radial Rover A/T, Goodyear Fortera HL, Bridgestone Dueler H/L, Michelin LTX M/S, Uniroyal HD/H Nailguard, etc. and I can't seem to get a straight answer on any of them.
  • gator36gator36 Member Posts: 294
    I have two suggestions....

    Currently I am running Yokohama Geolander AT II's
    These are rated at 40,000 miles with a warranty.
    I do alot of highway driving and alot of off-road.
    These have been excellent. Especially in my snow encounters... (I have to go look for it as I live in Southern cal.)
    I have 285/75/16's and they run great...
    These willbe at the high end of your range in price..

    You may want to check out the Pirelli Scorpions as well. These I had on my last truck just before I sold it. They are nice tires with all around excellent handling charastics.

    I hope this helps you ...

    Walter (Gator)
  • johnskevjohnskev Member Posts: 98
    When I owned an Infiniti QX4, I ran on Michelin LTX M/S. After 31,000 miles, they looked brand new. Living in MN, they were great highway/city/snow/gravel tires, always felt like I had traction.
  • canayjun64canayjun64 Member Posts: 34
    First, I'd get a pressure test done on it with a dye to locate any possible leak. Second, like obyone mentioned, could be a head gasket but I suspect a leaking intake manifold gasket (they sometime leak through the silicone bead either in front or the rear of the intake)....Canayjun64
  • jimtncjimtnc Member Posts: 36
    Thanks guys for the replies. I've decided to go with the 245/75-16's or 255/70-16's. I'm going nuts trying to decide which tire would give me good performance for the best price. I've checked everywhere and getting more confused. Still looking for around $80-120 ea, but when I find a dealer around my area they jump $30-40. Geeessshhh!!!!

    Also, the 255/70-16's aren't too big for my wheel-well are they?? How big can I go on the OEM wheels? Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    by current customers. You can go to their website and check out the available tires and see what owners would buy another set of the same.

    Max size would be either 275/70R16 or 285/75R16.
  • jimtncjimtnc Member Posts: 36
    Ok, thanks Obyone. I've been to Tirerack extensively the last few days. Wasn't sure what size I could consider if I got a good offer. Appreciate it, folks.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    ProTec composite box yet? If so, how do you like it?
  • hihosilver2hihosilver2 Member Posts: 9
    Has anyone experienced a "shake/rattle" in the front end of '02 Silverado's when you drive over bumps? It is annoying when you can feel it through the steering wheel.
  • truckluvertruckluver Member Posts: 11
    Brought my 02 1500HD in for same problem.
    Rattle coming up through steering wheel. Said they corrected problem, it came back 3 weeks later. Will be taking back in soon and will let
    you know what they say.
  • mtrammellmtrammell Member Posts: 125
    Jim,

    Go to the following link. You will need Adobe Acrobat to view the GM TechLink document. Scroll down to page 2 and read the article on Steering Wheel Rattle - see if this is the problem you are experiencing. I had to make a copy of this article and take it to the dealership before they would replace the bearing. The dealer lubed the intermediate shaft, then replaced the intermediate shaft and the rattle persisted. Finally they replaced the bearing. The rattle completely disappeared and has not returned for 5K miles now.

    http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200207-en.pdf#dst01

    Mike .T.
  • hihosilver2hihosilver2 Member Posts: 9
    The reference you gave listed a TSB #02-02-34-001, which describes a HD truck... what about the regular 4WD 1500 Silverado? Is this still applicable? Also where can print out the TSBs?
  • mtrammellmtrammell Member Posts: 125
    No, only applied to the 1500HD and 2500HD. The only TSB out for the light duty is the intermediate shaft lube. The original TSB replaced the intermediate shaft but GM discovered that they could do a temorary fix by lubricating it and hopefully get you past the warranty period before the problem returns.

    Mike .T.
  • hihosilver2hihosilver2 Member Posts: 9
    Well that kind of figures.... I hope the lube procedure fixes the problem. At least then I know what to have done if it returns. I scheduled an appointment at the dealer for this Monday. Thanks for all the advice.
  • crash269crash269 Member Posts: 9
    I to have the same exact problem and with the steering wheel and the rear end clunk also. Have an appt. this Saturday myself to have it fixed. The service writer told me it was a common problem and would take care of it....we'll see.
  • shamptonshampton Member Posts: 53
    Anyone have info on the quick way to estimate GMO pricing on the 2500HD? In the past, when I purchased my 2000 1/2 Silverado --- I believe the discount was 15% off of base / 18% off options.

    Just looking for a starting point.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks!

    Bill
  • pvrancherpvrancher Member Posts: 1
    Okay - at the risk of being flamed to death, here is my question. I am considering trading in my 99 F350 Superduty for a 2500HD Silverado. Those of you who truly shopped or have owned the two brands, I would like to hear your comments as to why you chose to go with the Chevy. Have you been happy with your decision. Anything you would have ordered differently?
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    Check out www.gmfamilysavings.com
    All the info you need. But you must
    have employee SS# to access the site
    to get prices etc.......
    I have read elsewhere that GMO price
    is no longer less ? GMO price on my
    01 truck was only $380 cheaper GMO.
    I wanted that Black badboy 2500 on
    the lot TODAY ! Remember on GMO/GMS
    YOU NO pay those adv. fees either !
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    Just checked.... After Sept 1, 2002
    GMO/GMS prices are the same....
    Only 1 price will be on invoices and
    GM Family plan info,,,,,,,,,,,geo
This discussion has been closed.