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Chevy Silverado

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Comments

  • johnmeijohnmei Member Posts: 44
    After 35 yrs away from GM products, I am seriously considering purchasing the above vehicle with the 5.3V8, Z71, and towing package. I am retired. I have heard from a few friends that they get 18-19 1/2 mpg on the highway and 15 or better around town with the 5.3 V8. True or false, I don't know. Do you? The Sierra 1500 has nice style, a lot of space and comfort. The other vehicle I am considering is the Toyota Tundra 4x4 V8 although its rear seat is VERY small and the gas mileage is about 16-17 on the highway. However, it is a "bullet-proof" vehicle as far as safety, reliability and fit and finish. I have had 3 Toyota vehicles (not pickups) and they are virtually trouble free with a very strong front end that hardly ever needs alignment, regardless of the road condition.
    I read alot of negative comments. What are the positive comments about the 2003 Sierra 4x4, 5.3 V8? Has anyone had both vehicles and can compare. I really need your input, advice, and experiences. Many thanks-John
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    1. 18-19 mpg? I have only got that 3 times in over 3 yrs. Id say depending on how you drive 15-18 is what you will see

    our mailman who is a good friend just went from a middle 90s dodge 2wd to an 03 4wd tundra. He likes it alot but he does wish the back seat was bigger. If you are going to use the backseat for passengers and you really want the tundra id consider waiting until the crewcab version comes out.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    My truck, 02 2500HD, ext. cab, 4WD, LB, 8.1L with 29K+ miles was born August 2001, and has what is commonly referred to as the cold-start knock (I call it clatter), although "cold" is no longer a necessary condition, and has not been for some time. It began as a ticking sound at less than 1K. GM's official explanation is piston slap caused by loose clearances, not a durability issue, don't worry about it (paraphrasing). I was alarmed by a recent oil analysis from Blackstone which revealed elevated levels of lead and copper with a notation that these levels were in the caution range! I immediately took another sample for independent verification, and intend likewise at the next change. If this pattern continues then two independent diagnoses by certified mechanics will follow. I urge anyone with this problem to have your oil analyzed regularly, especially if your nearing warranty expiration.

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    everyone who has had an analysis from blackstone on their 99+ trucks comes back with a high level of copper.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    If everyone had high levels of copper then the universal average would be high. It is not. Even so, I'm more concerned about the lead which is suddenly two and a half times the average. Thanks for the input though.

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    ok let me clarify, everyone who has posted online their results of their 99+ gm truck from oil analysis had high levels of copper
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    My 2001 Silverado LS, 5.3L, Z-71, ext-cab, 3.73 has been trouble free since I bought it new 2 1/2 years ago. I've got 24,000 miles on it now, and I did have it in the shop once for a front end alignment. Only other complaint is the occasional squeaking I get from the ext-cab doors as the cab flexes when driving over uneven terrain.
    As far as mileage, on the highway at 73 mph I get around 18.6 mpg. I pure city driving at 35 mph I get around 15.5 mpg.
    With regards to Tundra as "bullet-proof", well some of them may be that way and some won't be that way, just like GM products. I'm sure there are forums out there that discuss the problems some Tundra owners have been experiencing.
    You probably won't go wrong with either choice.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    15.5 mpg around town? How do you pull that off??? I am lucky to get 13 haha (not alot of traffic or stops by you?)
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    15.5 mpg in pure city driving is no joke.
    My drive from home to work is only 4 miles at 35 mph.
    Heck, my engine hardly gets warm before I shut it off for 8 hours.
    I've checked it a few times lately with just driving to work & around town (30 or 35 mph also) for 3/4 of a tank of gas. It consistently gets around 15.5 mpg.
    Must be that regular Mobile oil I use in it. It's been good to me and has always given me great gas mileage for 23 years, no matter what vehicle I'm driving.
    The wife and I (and kids) have been looking at getting a 24' cabin cruiser boat.
    Wonder what my gas mileage will be when towing that!!!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    In answer to your last question I would guess 9-10 MPG if you keep the speed down
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Would converting the truck to dual exhaust increase my mileage some when towing that big of a boat, or just give it a little more umph?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Will give you more oomph on the high end. Usually a loss of torque on the low end with less restrictive exhaust system. Course there are exceptions to the rule.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    with obyone. I wouldn't expect any increase in gas mileage while towing with a low restriction exhaust, the only benefit you will POSSIBLY see is improved high end performance.
    Certainly any increase in mileage would only be on a 1/10ths of MPG scale, and never provide enough return to pay for the cost of the modification.
    The best way to improve your mileage while towing is to slow down. For example when my dad towed his 30' fifth wheel at 65-70mph he got about 7 mpg. He tried at 55-60 and his mileage went to a little over 8 mpg. That may not sound like a big deal but in reality its about a 15 percent improvement.
    You won't see that degree of a benefit because your boat is much lighter and more aerodynamic, but going a little slower will help.
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Luckily, the closest boat launch is only 5 miles away. So if we do get the 24' boat I'll only use a gallon of gas or two to get there and back.
    Though, once a year I'll need to tow it about 50 miles in order to get a little closer to the San Juan islands and to Vancouver Island in Canada before I put it in the water.

    Truck Towing Boat: 65 mph @ 8 mpg.
    Boat Pushing Water: 30 mph @ 2 mpg.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Fuel consumption on a boat is rated in gallons per hour. On a 24ft boat, at wide open throttle I would random a guess of about 20-25 GPH.
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    So why is fuel consumption on a boat rated at gallons per hour and vehicles rated at miles per gallon?

    If I'm traveling in a boat doing 30 mph and I use 15 gph, isn't that the same as getting 2 mpg?

    If I'm traveling in my truck doing 72 mph and I'm getting 18 mpg, isn't that the same as getting 4 gph?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    Similar to aircraft, the medium you are moving through may not be stationary like the ground. The effect in water is more dramatic due to rate of travel being closer to the speed of the medium. The water could be flowing downstream faster than you are traveling upstream giving you a negative ground miles per gallon. Unless, of course, you really want to go downstream, just slower than the current.

    Land yachts get buffeted by the wind or water currents, but aren't affected unless traction is lost.
  • totoritotori Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Silverado Crew Diesel. The airconditiong is horrible. It just isnt cold enough.

    We took it in once and they "fixed" something and it still doesnt work very well. I live in Southern California and the temperature does get in to the hundreds quite often but that is what it is supposed to be for! I have had several different people comment in my car about the A/C, so I am not crazy. Has anyone had this problem?
  • psgpsg Member Posts: 72
    goes over 90 degrees. I'm still not sure about this as the season is really just heating up in our Southern Part of Heaven - Chapel Hill, NC. I saw your post and thought, "hey, maybe I'm not crazy." I was just starting to wonder if I need to call the dealer. I've never owned a American car that didn't have an excellent A/C. Yesterday, the A/C did fine but the temperature was in the 80s. It seems when we go over 90, the A/C never gets real cold and the fan runs continuously on high (auto-climate control). I have a 2003 Silverado extended cab. We will see what August brings...
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    be changing dealers since their service department seems inept.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I would guess there is a problem with your AC system. I have owned 2 different Chevy trucks and both had great AC. My current truck keeps the cab very comfortable, and it has been very hot here, 103 today, and 7th straight day over 100. On pace to be the hottest July ever in my area.
    Also according to the auto press I have heard only raves about the GM AC systems in their trucks. I don't have the link, but Motor Trend did a comprehensive 4WD comparo in Death Valley last year, and I remember part of the article commented that The GM's were very popular driving choices for their "beer cooler cold AC".
    A couple of questions. Does your a/c blow sub par all the time or only at idle at a stop light. In very high temps, A/c systems have a hard time keeping up at times when there is very little air blowing thru the condenser. I would take it back to the dealer and have them check the temperature that your AC is blowing, should be less than 40 degrees.
  • psgpsg Member Posts: 72
    I'll have to pay closer attention. The A/C ran fine yesterday. My current thinking is it is an intermittent problem. :-(

    BTW, I'm on my second A/C fan motor. The first one self-destructed just before a trip to Florida. Apparently, a couple of the tabs that hold the fan motor in it's housing had broken. The fan dropped down and started rubbing the vent housing.

    Phil
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    If you have the auto climate control feature activated it will normally select "outside air" if you manually switch over to "recirc" it will make a big difference in the cooling.

    When you have outside air selected the AC system only has one chance to cool the air. Even the best system will only be able to change the air temp by about 20 degrees. If the outside temp is 95 degrees you will get 75 degree air. If you select recirc it keeps running the same air through the system, each time it lowers it by 15-20 degrees, until of course it reaches the temp of your evaporator.

    If this does not solve your problem - then you have something wrong with your system.
  • psgpsg Member Posts: 72
    Duh! Of course, that will make a big difference. It's been awhile since I read the owners manual.

    Phil
  • donaldm1donaldm1 Member Posts: 19
    2002 HD seems to be developing a rattle in the steering system. You can feel it on washboard and on pavement going slow around slight turns. Steering seems tight, just a rattle coming up to the wheel. Anyone else experience this?
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    The problem is very common with this truck. I had it too. The grease they used in the intermediate steering shaft dries out. Take it in. The fix is quick and easy. I'm told that once it's lubed with the proper grease (GM #1 26098419) it won't recur.

    -David
  • donaldm1donaldm1 Member Posts: 19
    Thanks. Will take it in.
  • dev8dev8 Member Posts: 2
    has anyone had any problems with a clunking noise
    in drive train.
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Almost EVERYONE has had problems with a clunk in their drivetrain. It has something to do with the slip yolk on the drive shaft. Took my 01 in a few weeks ago for it, i mentioned a clunk in the drivetrain and the service writter knew EXACTLY what it was. Course now my clunk has returned so off to the dealer i go again. I also beleive there is a TSB out for this problem, im sure someone in here can repost that for you too.
    Tom
  • arttartt Member Posts: 14
    There are two clunks. The driveshaft yoke and this one:

    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
    Driveline Clunk
    2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
    Important
    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
    Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
     Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
     While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • nbennett4nbennett4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 with the 8100 engine which is using about 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles with only 20,000 miles! GM local factory representative Ken Wagner claims this engine should use about 1 Quart of oil for every 100 gallons of gas. What a crock! I believe the original problem was the loose intake manifold which had a recall (not advertised!) to fix the bolts. Being loose for so long (they finally admitted a problem at 19,000 and fixed the bolts) I think that either the intake manifold and/or heads are now warped and/or the vibrations of the two pieces together has ground metal away causing bad seating. GM just does NOT want to rebuild the engines they failed to fix in time.

    Does any one out there with a new 8100 engine (under 10,000 miles) burn 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles?

    GM is now telling me they will extend the engine component warranty to 6yr/100,000. The problem I see with this is that the wording makes engine failure because you ran out of oil not covered! Also this oil burn fouls the plugs out after about 800 miles and you start to get takeoff hesitation!

    Does any one know how long it will take this kind of oil usage to mess up the emissions system?

    What can I expect my oil consumption to be at 50,000 miles? (2 Quarts per 1000 miles?)

    How long will I be able to continue passing state emissions test?

    Do I need to even bother changing the oil with it burning this amount of oil?

    Wether you are having a problem or not with the 8100 I would go back to GM and get the "free" 6yr 100,000 file component warranty on this engine.
  • porno4parrottsporno4parrotts Member Posts: 2
    I have had good luck so far except for the A/C sensor. My a/c went out because of a defective sensor that was replaced. Now is cold a/c once it was replaced. My others are experiencing the same problem.
    Call your dealer and ask about the sensor that plugs into the canister off the passenger side fire wall in the engine compartment.

    My tranny also clunks. I was told not to worry about it.
    Im frazzled about the tranny because I traded in my 99 Ford F150 Lariat w/ 5.4 Liter after the dealer told me tranny number 6 was going in at 55K miles.
    I dumped it and became a Chevy man.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    "I dumped it and became a Chevy man."

    That was your first mistake.. muhahahhahaha
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    Did they change out the PVC valve to the newer design one? There was an issue with them causing high oil consumption..............geo

    But fouling the plugs?.....Hmmmmmm...............
  • turfsharkturfshark Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03, short box, std cab, V-6 automatic, 13,500 miles. When you take it on a smooth asphalt road it starts to shake at 58 mph and keeps shaking to over 75. Has done it since new. You really feel it in the seat. Steering wheel does not shake. The dealer and I drove a brand new one built 4 months before mine and it was worse! They had the chevy rep drive the new one and he sent a report to Detroit. As of 3 weeks no answer or cure.
    The wheels were balanced but the shop supervisor says the frequency is faster than wheel speed. I say drive shaft he says he has no clue. I think the frame is setting up a harmonic. A friend has the same truck it does not shake... So much for the smooth ride suspension as printed on the window sticker!! Do any of you have this problem?? Dealer also said it is not the engine, nor is it the recalled chrome steel wheels.
  • dev8dev8 Member Posts: 2
    i took my 03 chevy silverado in for steering
    noise,dealer called back and said my a/c comp
    was comming apart. anyone else having same problem
  • balichbalich Member Posts: 62
    I hear noises from the dash also but I sense this has to do with AC - but only
    occurs when I have the AC on the lowest setting.

    I am pretty confident that my noise is a AC on
    lowest setting noise I hear.

    On a side note: Anybody with a '03 hear
    squeaky noises from pedal when pressing accelerator pedal when driving ???
  • balichbalich Member Posts: 62
    I hear noises from the dash also but I sense this has to do with AC - but only
    occurs when I have the AC on the lowest setting.

    I am pretty confident that my noise is a AC on
    lowest setting noise I hear.

    On a side note: Anybody with a '03 hear
    squeaky noises from pedal when pressing accelerator pedal when driving ???
  • bsilerbsiler Member Posts: 30
    I just purchased a 2003 off the lot. I used to know where to find this information but I guess my age is catching up. Can I find it in the VIN or on the door jamb.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Have a 2001 Z71 5.3L w/AT and towing package GVW 6400lbs. I purchased it used in July w/30000 miles and have experienced a problem with the steering pulling to the left. Not hard but enough to be annoying, the dealer I purchased it from claims they did an alignment on it the day before I was to pick it up but it still does it. I am taking it back to them tomorrow. I’ll keep you posted. I want to keep everyone posted because further back into this discussion, dated two years ago, I noted someone saying that GM has had to replace the power steering pump to solve a pull to the right. May be tough to convince them this may be the problem. I keep the tires [Fstone] inflated properly but still have the pull.

    I also have the hard shifting problem [noticed it when test driving it} from 1st to 2nd gear. It is only getting worse. If anyone has found a solution to this problem PLEASE let me know because the BtoB warranty runs out Jan. 1 of 2004.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Thanks for the input. Yes the tire pressure was the first thing I checked but didn’t move the tires around yet. Sorry to here about the nut on the ball joint. Man that is serious stuff especially with the kids in the back. Not in the bed I hope…

    The update is that the dealer determined that the tire is the problem with the left pull. So they have ordered (under warranty) a new one and will call when it is in. I’ll let you know how that goes. The hard shift for the transmission was solved via a computer update. It DID solve the problem. It did it hot or cold so now I need to test it and see how long the fix lasts. Nice and smooth now.

    On another note; I have the Z71 w/towing package. What size trailer in tonnage is to much for this truck. The wife wants me to get us a camper but am a little dumb on just how to figure the GVW and stuff like that. I pull a small U-Haul box trailer once in a while but she is talking about a BIG boy now.

    Any feedback would be welcomed.
  • thumpinstevethumpinsteve Member Posts: 1
    I owned a 2001 Silverado 1500 LT which was just stolen. This truck had the security system but, that obviously did not help. It also had the OnStar system but, I did not renew subscription after first year. I called them and offered to sign back up if they could help with my stolen truck. However, they said someone would have to push the button from inside the truck to renew and they could not help me.

    I have heard that the Silverado is one of the easiest trucks to steal. Does anyone know if Chevrolet has done anything to improve its theft deterrence? I am looking at trucks again and I just keep coming back to the Silverado when I compare them side-by-side. I want another Silverado but if they are that easy to steal, I may have to reconsider.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    I actually hope that it is not found, because it will be more difficult to settle up for miscellaneous damages with the insurance company (assuming that you had theft coverage).
    Regarding onstar, a halfway knowledgeable thief will break off the antenna first thing - disabling the reception - so I would not feel too bad about not renewing this expensive, seldom used, service. Lojak might be a better investment for this purpose. However, my neighbor recently had his new Ford S Crew stolen and it had Lojak - ended up in Mexico (I live in AZ) and the police won't pursue a stolen vehicle down there. The best anti-theft device I have heard of is an old technology kill switch in a location only you know. I recently bought a new Sierra and the dealership said they installed a higher tech form of kill switch on all of their vehcicles and none have been stolen since.
    Any vehicle is easy to steal if you really want to steal it, so buy the truck you like and get a kill switch - check with local police and aftermarket alarm shops to get the best info on current anti-theft devices. IMHO, if someone wants to steal my truck I would rather have them steal it than deal with the damages they would leave behind in trying to steal it. Let us know how you make out. Good luck.
  • sonjaabsonjaab Member Posts: 1,057
    Got my 01 GM tow guide handy ! Need to know
    if x-cab or reg cab and rear gear ratio tho!
    Look in glove box for RPO code sticker
    G-80 is locker....Ratio should start with G too.
  • arzeearzee Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I own an older '93 2500 Silverado 4x4, that I recently purchased used. I've noticed that when I go at low speed that there are two black relays (I'm asuming they are relays) taped back to back under the drivers side dashboard that constantly click rapidly and intermitantly at low speeds. It seems to subside when I pick up speed and maintain a constant speed.

    My door locks also keep locking and unlocking, but not at the same frequency of these relays. Does anyone know if these relays are related to the auto door locks. Are the doors supposed to lock automatically when the truck is put in drive, or just when I push on the lock button?

    Any help in what the problem might be would be appreciated.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Chev doors lock automatically when taken out of park. I have no clue what your relay might be.
  • caedward2caedward2 Member Posts: 45
    Has anybody heard what changes will be made to the '04 Silverado?
  • bowtieman1bowtieman1 Member Posts: 38
    The rebates will be lower until July of 04!! Really dont have a clue. Have not talked to anyone in Pontiac GM truck group for a while so I cant help ya. My 03 has several improvements over my 00, I dont expect much for 04. I do know they are working on on board nav systems for trucks for the near future. These nav systems will be standard for all LT models I would guess.
  • bowtieman1bowtieman1 Member Posts: 38
    change for the 04 silverado is the addition of 17" tires & wheels. I am sure that this is offered as an option. I found a GM web sight on the Tahoe townhall talk that defines changes in the ordering code for new vehicles. The only significant thing for the new silverado was the offering of 17" tires and wheels. Time to buy??
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    awhile now. Don't see much difference between 16 to 17. They should offer the 20 like Dodge does. Course they would have to upgrade the brakes and charge and arm and a leg more as usual.
This discussion has been closed.