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Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

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  • richc2richc2 Member Posts: 1
    I had the exact same problem start on the 8th of September on a 2004 Chevy Tahoe. I searched this site and someone replied that they had a vent valve replaced. They also said they added freon. I am not an expert, but I don't think that would fix it. We took it to a local shop and they had never seen the problem and said we would need to go to the Dealer. Have you been able to get yours fixed?
  • mcodermcoder Member Posts: 5
    Not Yet
  • mistmist Member Posts: 5
    I have been posting stuff up here and i know mr. shiftright can help. I have been doing some more digging and researching on why my car is over heating. i think i have tracked it down. while i was doing a oil change this morning i started my car to let the excess oil burn off. while i was waiting the fan kicked on as it always does. what i didn't know is that i had a second fan. The room in the compartment is really tight and i have never noticed the second fan before. Could this be the problem of running hot? It never gets to the over heat mark just runs hot.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Yes, that could be the problem. Problem is that unless you have the schematics, you don't know exactly when that fan is supposed to run. Some vehicles turn them on automatically as soon as the air conditioner is turned on. Other times they run at slow and full speed, depending on coolant temperature, etc.

    Most of the times those fans have a relay associated with them, because of the current they use.

    At this point you only know that the fan isn't on, but you don't know whether the problem is:
    - fan connector has power, motor is bad
    - fan connector doesn't have power, but relay is energized (and points are bad) not giving power to the fan. You may have two identical relays which you can swap to see if the symptoms change.
    - relay isn't energized, whatever is supposed to turn it on isn't doing it (temperature sensor, a/c, engine computer, etc).
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    I deal with an AC company in Arizona, they are on my profile. ACKits.com
    They've always had the AC parts in stock that I needed.
    It's the ONLY A/C place I deal with, so it makes me biased in my opinion.
  • bigdre123bigdre123 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem. open your hood and go to the fuse box. Pull out fuse number 39 it is probably blown. this is the condenser fan fuse. when you stop the fan is not running, so no air is cooling the condenser. as you drive the air goes over the condenser, thus giving you cold air. If the fuse isn't bad then check the motor and make sure that the fan comes on while you are sitting still. The fan is small one close to the battery. hope it helps.
  • wolfnutwolfnut Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 ford ranger and some days when I start the truck the fan will blow air from the vents and other days it won't. Sometimes it will start on it's own while the truck is runnign or I am driving down the road. Once it starts it stays on till I shut off the truck, but then there is the chance that it will not kick on when I start the truck again. I have checked the fuse and it appears fine. Any thoughts as to what I am dealing with?? I explained it to the garage I normally go to and they said it would be at least $200. give or take. Hoping to not have to spend quite that much. What should I check first??
    Thanks in advance for any help I recieve.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    I think the resistor is the wrong track for your problem.

    Test the Function Control first.

    Turn the ignition switch to run.
    Place the function control lever to OFF
    Does the motor still run?
    If it does, then pull the A/C control from the instrument panel far enough to get to the electrical connectors.
    Turn the ignition switch to ON
    Turn the function control lever to OFF
    Check voltage with a Digital Volt/Ohm meter (DVOM) at pin #3, circuit 348. The wire is Light Green with a purple stripe.
    If voltage is present, then the function selector switch is bad.
    If voltage isn't present, then there is a wire shorting in the harness.
  • 30033003 Member Posts: 2
    I am installing a aftermarket a/c system in a streetrod and using a ford compressor. Ford wiring diagrams show a diode between the ground and hot side of the compressor connections. What is it's purpose and if I do not use it will it harm the clutch field??? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Don't have the schematic and don't know specifically for what you are referencing, but diodes can be used in electro-mechanical circuits to dissipate (bad) voltage spikes when coils are energized. You'll see them on relay coils, for instance.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    The diode is to stop alternating feedback through the clutch hub and spikes like kia said.
    If you do not use it, then you take a chance on burning up the hub.

    There is a reason it is there, make sure it is installed.
    Half the retro installations I have seen without the diode end up burning up the clutch.
    I have replaced quite a few of the hubs because of something like this.
  • rlmntrlmnt Member Posts: 3
    After my out-of-warranty '04 Element's A/C stopped working last week, the local Honda Dealer's service manager informed me that the A/C system was "full of metal" - indicating a complete internal breakdown. He could flush the system and replace the compressor but wouldn't recommend it because the metal pieces couldn't be totally eliminated and the system would fail within a year - probably sooner. So, his solution? Replace it all. $3,500. He claims that only by replacing the entire system (all parts/belts/hoses/everything) could A/C capability be restored. This strikes me as 1) extreme and 2) expensive. Does anybody have any suggestions for me? Thanks!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Get a second opinion.
    Check around your area for a local honda specialist shop or an A/C Specialist shop and see if they can give you an estimate on the problem.

    I would prefer an A/C specialist shop, as that is all they do and are more versed in those systems.
    I deal with an A/C place that is in my profile, their site may be of some use.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    OPatience is right, you need to go to an AC specialist. In general terms, the service manager is correct---severe contamination would probably result in failure of the compressor once again as it sucks up some old metal particles that might escape the little filters in there or that didn't get flushed. But then, it might not. I think you need to figure out how much the flush and new compressor will cost (and you probably need a new dryer), and the flush, as opposed to a complete overhaul.

    Really the only way debris can be in the system is if your compressor seized or is very very noisy and on the point of seizure. Did this happen? It should have been quite noisy and given you plenty of warning, but not always...
  • rlmntrlmnt Member Posts: 3
    All good advice. And even a thread of hope! Thank you! I'm off to see an A/C specialist!
  • wornout59wornout59 Member Posts: 5
    I DEVELOPED THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MT 2004 SILVERADO A COUPLE WEEKS AGO. THE DEALER SAYS THEY HAVE NOT HERD MUCH ABOUT IT BUT I DO NOT BELIEVE THEM. I HAVE ONLY 25,000 MILES ON MINE BUT AM OUT OF WARRANTY. I STARTED TAKING APART THE DASH & DUCT WORK YESTERDAY. HERES WHAT I FOUND. THE DUAL CONTROL SWICTHES RUN $161 + TAX AND THE ACTUATOR THAT MIXES THE HEATED AIR WITH THE COOL AIR IS $181 + TAX. THE BIGGER PROBLEM IS I'M NOT SURE WITCH ONE IF EITHER IS BAD AND THEIR ARE NO RETURNS ON ELECTRONICS FROM THE DEALER. I STARTED AND STOPPED THE TRUCK AT LEAST A DOZZEN TIMES AND CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM WHEN I WANT TO IT HAPPENS RADOMLY. ANY LUCK ON YOURS?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Ok, first thing. DO NOT buy parts without testing.
    Testing/Diagnostics/Checking is the first thing you should ever do. Throwing parts at it is rarely productive and most times costly.

    Now this is where a good information system comes in handy.
    AlldataDIY is something you should have before starting a repair. I know, it may sound like an advertisement, but understand that a manual does NOT give you updated information and service bulletins.

    That being said, there is a service bulletin about Synchronizing the passenger and driver's side.
    (See next post)
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    A/C - System Changes/Synchronization
    Bulletin No.: 03-01-39-008
    Date: June 25, 2003
    INFORMATION
    Subject:
    Changes in A/C Compressor On/Off Instrument Panel Display Symbol from 2003 to 2004 Model Year and Synchronizing the Driver and Passenger Set Temperatures
    Models:
    2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
    2003-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
    2003-2004 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Sierra, Sierra Denali, Yukon, Yukon XL
    2003-2004 HUMMER H2
    with Dual Zone Automatic Climate Control (RPO CJ2)

    This bulletin is being issued to clarify the operation of the A/C compressor and to explain the driver and passenger set temperature operation on vehicles equipped with dual zone automatic climate control systems (RPO CJ2).

    Operation of A/C Compressor 2003 A/C OFF Indicator
    On 2003 model year vehicles, a snowflake with a slash through it is shown on the display when the A/C has been turned off (by a press of the A/C button). The A/C can be turned on by pressing the AUTO button or pressing the A/C button again. This will remove the indicator from the display.

    Some customers may comment about poor A/C performance after they've pressed the A/C button and see what appears to be the snowflake illuminated on the display. What has actually happened, though, is that they have disabled the operation of the A/C compressor and the snowflake symbol, upon closer inspection, has a slash through it.

    2004 A/C ON Indicator
    On 2004 model year vehicles, the indicator will change to a snowflake (without the slash) and it will be illuminated whenever the A/C compressor operation is enabled.

    Driver and Passenger Set Temperature Operation
    The display of driver and passenger set temperature may also cause confusion. It is possible to set the left temperature control to full cold and the right temperature control to full hot with little indication on the display that the two temperatures are set differently.

    If the driver set temperature is set to 16°C (60°F) and the passenger set temperature is set to 32°C (90°F), the display will show the passenger set temperature for only five seconds. After that time, the display will show only the driver set temperature and a small arrow pointing left. The arrow is very important because it is the only indicator that the left and right temperatures are not equal. When both the driver and passenger set temperatures are equal, the display will have arrows pointing both left and right.

    With different set temperatures, it is possible to have the left temperature door flowing air through the evaporator and the right temperature door flowing air through the heater core. This may cause the overall passenger compartment temperature to not be cooled or heated as well as the customer might expect.

    In order to synchronize the driver and passenger temperatures, follow these steps:
    ^ Set the driver and passenger set temperatures to the desired temperatures, OR
    ^ Push and hold the AUTO button for at least four seconds to make both driver and passenger set temperatures set to the driver's set temperature. Both set temperatures can be controlled by the left temperature control knob when the zones are linked in this manner. Turning the passenger set temperature knob will "unlink" the zones again.
  • wornout59wornout59 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the tips. Its a manual dual control which of course is silly since the passenger is only 18 inches away so I do not think sync is the answer since the controls work independently and flawlessly when repeatedly checked. The heated hot air blows out of the drivers side randomly & without warrning with the air on or off, at that time the drivers side temp contol is useless. This is south florida so the slide switch is normally always at the bottom (cold setting). Only turning off the engine and restarting will reset the sytem to normal operation. I spoke to another service tech at a GMC dealer yesterday who indicated that 99% of the time its the temp actuator. Any thoughts?
  • biggiedave1biggiedave1 Member Posts: 2
    hi all,
    climate control help GMC Denali, when I set temp fan blows on high and doesn't slow down when temp is reached also only blows cold unless temp is set to 90 degrees, actuators zones appear to be working fine. temperature sensor? if so where is it? thanks please help dealer wants big bucks to fix.
  • wornout59wornout59 Member Posts: 5
    A parts tech for Chevy told me that the green board with metal contacts run thru was what controlled the fan speed. It is easily located in front of the blower fan. where passengers right foot wound be. Remove AC shroud first only 2 screws to remove board 4 for shroud. I would take that part to a dealer to confirm but order online to save 50% or more, do a parts search & compare $. the tech also said it was a common failer.
  • biggiedave1biggiedave1 Member Posts: 2
    i can manually reduce speed, it goes to hi on auto mode and will not reduce fan speed when temp is achieved and again only blows warm air when thermostat is set at 90.
    any suggestions?
  • wornout59wornout59 Member Posts: 5
    Should be the same board I was refering to. I think it detects the tempeture and when set temp. is reached it drops the fan speed down. I do not have the auto temp. so I haven't got that problem. Good luck
  • bahjatkalandosbahjatkalandos Member Posts: 2
    :sick: Mr Shiftright,
    I have 2005 nissan sentra with the same problem. these days are kind of cold mornings, so I turned the knob to the heater, when in the afternoon tried to run the A/C by turning the knob to cold, I still get hot air.
    It looks like the heat/cold valve is stuck on the heat.
    Do you have update on your car situation, I mean did you figure it out what exactly was the problem.
    Thanks for any update you provide
  • sdmcarlsonsdmcarlson Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem. 2004 Silverado. With AC on (or even just the vent) I will get very hot air blowing from the drivers side vents only. And, as you said, must re-start the vehicle to "re-set". Did you find what the problem was exactly and what was the part name/number?
  • bahjatkalandosbahjatkalandos Member Posts: 2
    I have 2005 nissan sentra with the same problem. these days are kind of cold mornings, so I turned the knob to the heater, when in the afternoon tried to run the A/C by turning the knob to cold, I still get hot air.
    It looks like the heat/cold valve is stuck on the heat.
    Do you have update on your car situation, I mean did you figure it out what exactly was the problem.
    Thanks for any update you provide. :cry:
  • wornout59wornout59 Member Posts: 5
    I think its fixed a couple more weeks to be certain. Two weeks ago I replaced the drivers side temp actuator GM part # 89018365, it was just under $200 with tax from the dealer. You can get it thru www.gmpartsdirect.com for almost half that price now that you have the part #. Take off the duct shroud ( 4 screws ) and the actuator is right above the hump in the floor, only 2 screws & pull down. You can fell the spindel or shaft that connets to to flapper that lets in the heated air, open and close manually with your finger tips an you can hear it open & close. Line that shaft to the opening in the actuator and reinstall the 2 screw. I plugged the new one in first and started the truck to watch the actuator turn to the close flap position (no heat) which is what I had manually put the flap in. It was a very simple job 10-20 minutes. I like to know what the dealer would have charged, probably pretty high. I also found out when I got the part that their are 3 or 4 actuators in that system. The passengers side is above the drivers at the top side or the duct (under top of dash), hope that one never goes, and theirs one for recirculation door and I think their is one more somewhere in their. hope this helps.
  • mikpalmmikpalm Member Posts: 2
    I have 95 aaccord ex etec engine. The heater fan motor just quit. After checking i've found the motor if ok, the swithch has power. The schematic in the manual says there is a rheostat and a relay for this motor. Any one know where these are located? or other sugesstions?
    thanks mikpalm
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    typically the resistors are put inside the plenum itself, so that the air moving thru the plenum helps cool the resistors (and you get the heat from the resistors). Look for an area on the plenum where wires go to it, and bolts on to the side of the plenum.
  • likemycarlikemycar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 mazda mx3, the defrost and the rear defrost are not clearing the fog the way it should. What could be the problem any idea?
  • alikat1alikat1 Member Posts: 1
    My A/C has been faulty for almost 2 years, i really need help. It seems to function perfectly well in cool or rainy conditions. In winter, there was no problems. But every time the weather warms up, the a/c in the car can only work for a few minutes, before warming up to the point of blowing air that is 26deg.C. Every 2 mintues or so it repeats the cycle, cooing down to about 10deg.C. Of course it only happens while driving, so mechanics are having a hard time diagnosing the problem while it's on the road. I have had the evaporator replaced, the system flushed a new thermister and expansion valve. Of course i have no idea what all those words mean. The mechanic says the weather has nothing to do with it, :confuse: but i tested my theory again this morning in the cold rain, and it stayed at 5deg.C the whole time. Took the car out 2 hours later when the sun had come out, and straight away it was blowing hot air. Oh, and when it does decide to cool down, it makes a high pitched squeal. Please Please Please help. :cry: I'm taking the car back Wednesday, and I want to have some ideas for them.
  • mrdenisnmrdenisn Member Posts: 1
    As the temperatures have dropped, My 99 RL Climate Control has begun to blow cold air long after the car is warmed up - the dash temp guage shows normal. The Climate Control "thinks" it should be warm air because the automatic fan kicks in, but the air is only cold. It is sometimes 10-15 minutes or longer before the air becomes warm, so we have to turn of the system and periodically try it to see if it is warm yet. Then once it blows warm, it is fine for the remainder of the trip.

    Any ideas?
  • marc1973marc1973 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    My 1999 Ford Expedition recently stopped blowing out any heat. Blower blows fine, but not enough heat. Brought it to a local shop and they replaced the thermostat. Picked up the truck and bearly any heat and truck runs rough. Check engine light came on half way home. Brought it right back to shop and they said that it takes the thermostat awhile to "open" up and that I probably need new spark plugs. Truck ran smoothly when I brought it in. Spark plugs were changed at approx. 90,000 miles. Could the shop have disrupted anything or caused the truck to misfire and engine light to come on. Computer check said something about cylinder #7 misfire, but something seems weird. Please advise.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    More than likely, the thermostat wasn't even the problem.
    As for the thermostat opening, it would create heat if it didn't open up. The thermostat opens to allow coolant to circulate to cool the system down or keep it at a specific temperature.

    If your vehicle has A/C, then it is a good possibility that there is a problem with either the blend door or the blend door actuator.
    It the blend door doesn't close all the way, it allows the cold air from the A/C to overtake any heat.

    The other possibility is that the heater core has become plugged.

    Has the cooling system ever been serviced?

    How clean is the coolant?
  • pickuppigpickuppig Member Posts: 3
    The simple answer is they probably spilled some coolant and its gotten down and shorted out the spark plug.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,146
    Just to add to Opatience's post... I know not how Ford arranges its heater water supply compared to the GMs which I do know.

    Is there a shutoff valve that is closed for AC use to keep the heater from reheating AC air when really cold air is needed?
    Is that shutoff valve open?
    Is it vacuum operated?
    A vacuum leak could cause rough idle and strange running and engine light.
    The misfire might have been a wire pulled loose as they worked.

    First check for me would be to hold both heater hoses as close the firewall as I can grab them and see if they're really hot after the motor has been run for 10-15 minutes or more. That lets you now coolant is flowing through the heater core.

    From there it would be to the inside to see what's moving and what's not moving when you adjust the controls to heater and full hot.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bugatti3bugatti3 Member Posts: 7
    I will be traveling down the highway going at least 60 MPH but at times the odometer will get stuck at 30 MPH or 40 MPH , the next day everything appears to be working fine again, this is now becoming a cycle. I contacted a locate dealership and was advised to purchase a new sensor device, costing around $500 bucks. I was told the whole dash board would have to be removed to get to the damaged part. What else could be causing this? Different temperature changes, low batteries, a bad fuse, condensation in the panel????
  • bugatti3bugatti3 Member Posts: 7
    what is causing the sensor that is monitoring the speed I am going to read inaccurate one day and accurate the next day. Sometimes it will freeze up and just get stuck, I lightly tap the panel to help loosen up, sometimes this works and resets the monitor correctly. The buick dealership recommends I replace a part that will cost me $500, I was told the front panel has to be removed to replace this part, Could a loose wire, bad fuse, poor batteries, condensation with temperture changes be the culprit? I cannot understand paying out this much money for a replacement part when the part actually still works, just not all the time.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't think you have determined that the failing piece is the sensor on the transmission, or something with the computer or display.

    What you should try, is to start driving around with the cruise control on. If you are driving lets say at 60 mph for 10 minutes, and then the speedometer now reads 30 but the car continues at the same speed controlled by cruise control, then you know that the transmission sensor and computer are okay, and the problem is likely the dash/display.

    On the other hand, if you are driving at 60 on cruise, and all of a sudden the speedomenter drops to 30 and the cruise either triggers off....or speeds the car up, then you should suspect the transmission sensor.
  • cbabercbaber Member Posts: 1
    I have 2006 expedition EB edition. The heater blows very hot air while the temperature is on 67F, even if I lower the temperature to 65F where no heater should be working, it still blows very hot air. This Usually happens when the outside temperature is low (30's). It makes a little difference when turn the A/C on with recycle air. I took it to the dealer and they did not find any problem. Most of the times I have to turn it off in order to breath in the care since it get very hot.

    any body have any clue
  • mcviemcvie Member Posts: 1
    took my 2000 sable in for brakes and struts, when i got it back i had no heat and the clock and radio were out of wack. they tell me they did nothing to them anyone have any solutions. thanks
  • jlembeckjlembeck Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with a 2007 Ford F150 with the automated climite control system. The dealer said it was working correctly, but I bought the vehicle new and the problem just started two weeks ago, so I know thats not the case. Have you had any luck solving the problem?

    JL
  • randy89randy89 Member Posts: 3
    i have air coming through my air ducts and want it to stop how do i fix it? i own an 89 cadillac brougham... not sure if it is fleetwood or d' elegance
  • CapeCodCapeCod Member Posts: 117
    1998 Olds Silhouette Van
    Just had AC serviced... Drained & Recharged
    All was fine for about 2 weeks.
    The van has 3 center of dash vents...
    Left and center now give warmish air...
    The furtherest to the right gives cold air???
    What could be causing the problem...
    Is there a blend door ? Part of AC not cooling?
    I hate to say it but I don't trust my mechanic...
    So I would like some suggestions before returning...
  • bgadamsbgadams Member Posts: 9
    The AC blower fan on my 98 Olds Aurora works fine some of the time, then at other times wont. Lately I find that if I leave the fan position swith in the mid range, it will blow steady but with reduced force.
    Had it to the dealer and they could not get it not to blow. Someone suggested it could be the Blower fan control
    module. Any one else have suggestion?
  • roadszxroadszx Member Posts: 2
    I am planning to replace the expansion valve & dryer myself and then have an A/C shop charge the system. Can an average hobbyist perform this replacement?

    I had the system checked and was told the expansion valve was blocked. The shop has already pulled out any freon from the system. I have a Camry engine manual but I have lost track of my download of the full repair manual that includes the A/C system.

    Your feedback is appreciated.

    Thanks, Roadzx
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    My question would be, why is the expansion valve blocked. If there is debris in the expansion valve (perhaps from the dryer's burst dissecant bag?) then you'll have to clean the entire system before installing new parts. That might include removing the AC lines and flushing them, and cleaning the compressor screen.

    I know, I know, it's ALWAYS SOMETHING.
  • roadszxroadszx Member Posts: 2
    The A/C system had been working very well until I had the engine rebuilt for the second time (warranty work). I've assumed that the second removal and reinstall dislodged a particle that clogged the expansion valve. The A/C has otherwise never been a problem for the last 13 years. I can't even remember having had the system charged.

    Sounds like flushing the lines would be a good idea. Again I'm not sure how much or how complicated the work would be for a DIY'er. I've ordered a repair manual on DVD that hopefully will help. What would one flush the lines with? Air or solution or both? How difficult is it to clean a compressor screen.

    A shop ventured the cost of the work would start at $400 but could go up. Since I was able to acquire the expansion valve and dryer for under $100 I assumed most of the cost was labor.

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    flushing can be tricky, depending on a) what components and b) the type of car you have.

    This might help you:

    http://www.autoacsystems.com/_faqs/3tiplist.html
  • nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    the blower motor comes on when i turn the car on whether or not the climate control is on. also the climate control only works about half the time, but i have a replacement. i was thinking there might be a relay that has gone bad but not sure. i was hoping one of you guys might have an idea.
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