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Comments
Most of the times those fans have a relay associated with them, because of the current they use.
At this point you only know that the fan isn't on, but you don't know whether the problem is:
- fan connector has power, motor is bad
- fan connector doesn't have power, but relay is energized (and points are bad) not giving power to the fan. You may have two identical relays which you can swap to see if the symptoms change.
- relay isn't energized, whatever is supposed to turn it on isn't doing it (temperature sensor, a/c, engine computer, etc).
They've always had the AC parts in stock that I needed.
It's the ONLY A/C place I deal with, so it makes me biased in my opinion.
Thanks in advance for any help I recieve.
Test the Function Control first.
Turn the ignition switch to run.
Place the function control lever to OFF
Does the motor still run?
If it does, then pull the A/C control from the instrument panel far enough to get to the electrical connectors.
Turn the ignition switch to ON
Turn the function control lever to OFF
Check voltage with a Digital Volt/Ohm meter (DVOM) at pin #3, circuit 348. The wire is Light Green with a purple stripe.
If voltage is present, then the function selector switch is bad.
If voltage isn't present, then there is a wire shorting in the harness.
If you do not use it, then you take a chance on burning up the hub.
There is a reason it is there, make sure it is installed.
Half the retro installations I have seen without the diode end up burning up the clutch.
I have replaced quite a few of the hubs because of something like this.
Check around your area for a local honda specialist shop or an A/C Specialist shop and see if they can give you an estimate on the problem.
I would prefer an A/C specialist shop, as that is all they do and are more versed in those systems.
I deal with an A/C place that is in my profile, their site may be of some use.
Really the only way debris can be in the system is if your compressor seized or is very very noisy and on the point of seizure. Did this happen? It should have been quite noisy and given you plenty of warning, but not always...
Testing/Diagnostics/Checking is the first thing you should ever do. Throwing parts at it is rarely productive and most times costly.
Now this is where a good information system comes in handy.
AlldataDIY is something you should have before starting a repair. I know, it may sound like an advertisement, but understand that a manual does NOT give you updated information and service bulletins.
That being said, there is a service bulletin about Synchronizing the passenger and driver's side.
(See next post)
Bulletin No.: 03-01-39-008
Date: June 25, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject:
Changes in A/C Compressor On/Off Instrument Panel Display Symbol from 2003 to 2004 Model Year and Synchronizing the Driver and Passenger Set Temperatures
Models:
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2003-2004 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Sierra, Sierra Denali, Yukon, Yukon XL
2003-2004 HUMMER H2
with Dual Zone Automatic Climate Control (RPO CJ2)
This bulletin is being issued to clarify the operation of the A/C compressor and to explain the driver and passenger set temperature operation on vehicles equipped with dual zone automatic climate control systems (RPO CJ2).
Operation of A/C Compressor 2003 A/C OFF Indicator
On 2003 model year vehicles, a snowflake with a slash through it is shown on the display when the A/C has been turned off (by a press of the A/C button). The A/C can be turned on by pressing the AUTO button or pressing the A/C button again. This will remove the indicator from the display.
Some customers may comment about poor A/C performance after they've pressed the A/C button and see what appears to be the snowflake illuminated on the display. What has actually happened, though, is that they have disabled the operation of the A/C compressor and the snowflake symbol, upon closer inspection, has a slash through it.
2004 A/C ON Indicator
On 2004 model year vehicles, the indicator will change to a snowflake (without the slash) and it will be illuminated whenever the A/C compressor operation is enabled.
Driver and Passenger Set Temperature Operation
The display of driver and passenger set temperature may also cause confusion. It is possible to set the left temperature control to full cold and the right temperature control to full hot with little indication on the display that the two temperatures are set differently.
If the driver set temperature is set to 16°C (60°F) and the passenger set temperature is set to 32°C (90°F), the display will show the passenger set temperature for only five seconds. After that time, the display will show only the driver set temperature and a small arrow pointing left. The arrow is very important because it is the only indicator that the left and right temperatures are not equal. When both the driver and passenger set temperatures are equal, the display will have arrows pointing both left and right.
With different set temperatures, it is possible to have the left temperature door flowing air through the evaporator and the right temperature door flowing air through the heater core. This may cause the overall passenger compartment temperature to not be cooled or heated as well as the customer might expect.
In order to synchronize the driver and passenger temperatures, follow these steps:
^ Set the driver and passenger set temperatures to the desired temperatures, OR
^ Push and hold the AUTO button for at least four seconds to make both driver and passenger set temperatures set to the driver's set temperature. Both set temperatures can be controlled by the left temperature control knob when the zones are linked in this manner. Turning the passenger set temperature knob will "unlink" the zones again.
climate control help GMC Denali, when I set temp fan blows on high and doesn't slow down when temp is reached also only blows cold unless temp is set to 90 degrees, actuators zones appear to be working fine. temperature sensor? if so where is it? thanks please help dealer wants big bucks to fix.
any suggestions?
I have 2005 nissan sentra with the same problem. these days are kind of cold mornings, so I turned the knob to the heater, when in the afternoon tried to run the A/C by turning the knob to cold, I still get hot air.
It looks like the heat/cold valve is stuck on the heat.
Do you have update on your car situation, I mean did you figure it out what exactly was the problem.
Thanks for any update you provide
It looks like the heat/cold valve is stuck on the heat.
Do you have update on your car situation, I mean did you figure it out what exactly was the problem.
Thanks for any update you provide.
thanks mikpalm
Any ideas?
My 1999 Ford Expedition recently stopped blowing out any heat. Blower blows fine, but not enough heat. Brought it to a local shop and they replaced the thermostat. Picked up the truck and bearly any heat and truck runs rough. Check engine light came on half way home. Brought it right back to shop and they said that it takes the thermostat awhile to "open" up and that I probably need new spark plugs. Truck ran smoothly when I brought it in. Spark plugs were changed at approx. 90,000 miles. Could the shop have disrupted anything or caused the truck to misfire and engine light to come on. Computer check said something about cylinder #7 misfire, but something seems weird. Please advise.
As for the thermostat opening, it would create heat if it didn't open up. The thermostat opens to allow coolant to circulate to cool the system down or keep it at a specific temperature.
If your vehicle has A/C, then it is a good possibility that there is a problem with either the blend door or the blend door actuator.
It the blend door doesn't close all the way, it allows the cold air from the A/C to overtake any heat.
The other possibility is that the heater core has become plugged.
Has the cooling system ever been serviced?
How clean is the coolant?
Is there a shutoff valve that is closed for AC use to keep the heater from reheating AC air when really cold air is needed?
Is that shutoff valve open?
Is it vacuum operated?
A vacuum leak could cause rough idle and strange running and engine light.
The misfire might have been a wire pulled loose as they worked.
First check for me would be to hold both heater hoses as close the firewall as I can grab them and see if they're really hot after the motor has been run for 10-15 minutes or more. That lets you now coolant is flowing through the heater core.
From there it would be to the inside to see what's moving and what's not moving when you adjust the controls to heater and full hot.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
What you should try, is to start driving around with the cruise control on. If you are driving lets say at 60 mph for 10 minutes, and then the speedometer now reads 30 but the car continues at the same speed controlled by cruise control, then you know that the transmission sensor and computer are okay, and the problem is likely the dash/display.
On the other hand, if you are driving at 60 on cruise, and all of a sudden the speedomenter drops to 30 and the cruise either triggers off....or speeds the car up, then you should suspect the transmission sensor.
any body have any clue
JL
Just had AC serviced... Drained & Recharged
All was fine for about 2 weeks.
The van has 3 center of dash vents...
Left and center now give warmish air...
The furtherest to the right gives cold air???
What could be causing the problem...
Is there a blend door ? Part of AC not cooling?
I hate to say it but I don't trust my mechanic...
So I would like some suggestions before returning...
Had it to the dealer and they could not get it not to blow. Someone suggested it could be the Blower fan control
module. Any one else have suggestion?
I had the system checked and was told the expansion valve was blocked. The shop has already pulled out any freon from the system. I have a Camry engine manual but I have lost track of my download of the full repair manual that includes the A/C system.
Your feedback is appreciated.
Thanks, Roadzx
I know, I know, it's ALWAYS SOMETHING.
Sounds like flushing the lines would be a good idea. Again I'm not sure how much or how complicated the work would be for a DIY'er. I've ordered a repair manual on DVD that hopefully will help. What would one flush the lines with? Air or solution or both? How difficult is it to clean a compressor screen.
A shop ventured the cost of the work would start at $400 but could go up. Since I was able to acquire the expansion valve and dryer for under $100 I assumed most of the cost was labor.
Thanks.
This might help you:
http://www.autoacsystems.com/_faqs/3tiplist.html