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Comments
You say that the ping only occurs before the engine is fully warmed?
Elsewhere someone reported on the number of links if you search for "pinging" at google.com. I tried that and wandered around a bit (skipping over the network Ping sites). But one link caught my eye where the author mentioned making sure the engine coolant was warmed properly before evaluating any fix. Seems the basis of the comment is that the engine management system adjusts the engine to the cold condition differently from the warm - pointing to potential trouble with the various devices that come into play to tell the engine management computer what is going on: Mass Air Flow sensor, Exhaust Gas Recirculation, etc.
Sorry that I can't be more specific, but can't remember the details. You might try the site and browse the responses though. I will revisit the subject this weekend, if I find the link again I will post or copy relevant info for you.
Steve
I don't know, a C+ during my days in school was a really good mark ;~)
How would you rate them on a scale of 1 to 10?
Cheers, Tom
Ross
-Frank P.
Ross
..Mike
Although, you know how much I enjoy your ramble!
;-)
Tom
Value very good - moderate price, last long
Comfort good - quiet and smooth
Performance marginal - OK dry & wet, sucks for winter conditions. What me ramble?? ;~)
Ross
I will need the "spec" ranges to determine if the car is operating within specs. So far I haven't been able to find these searching on the interent.
Vince
I'd be interested to know how it turns out. Keep us posted on your findings.
-Brian
Chris: probably not. Yours is a 97 so you probably weren't looking for that type of problem. Were you running dino or synthetic? What weight? Did you ever clean the engine compartment with any chemicals?
Was it under warranty? It would be unless your miles were high.
The best I could suggest is to use a wholesaler to buy the parts, or even a parts recylcler (read: junk yard), and have a trusted mechanic install them. Or you could do it yourself.
-juice
Coolant temps are LOWERED when using water wetter. Not much really if you use it mixed with antifreeze and water, but a fairly considerable amount if you use only water and water wetter. (Of course that's a higher dose of WW and it's expensive, not to mention you have *very* poor anti-freezing capability and would have to swap it out in cold weather.)
Not sure I agree with the original diagnosis at any rate...
-Colin
-juice
At high speeds and some slower speed on hot days (85-100 degrees, high humidity) w/AC on, my XT6 is getting at or near overheating temps. All other times it's running w/o a problem. Also w/o the AC it's running hotter than normal, but not at the "H" mark.
I'm thinking it needs a flush and replacement of the coolant. The fans are working on the radiator w/o a problem, and the radiator isn't blocked up.
TIA for the help.
-mike
Then refill with 50/50 coolant and water plus a bottle of Water Wetter beforehand.
Just a thought, but it could be the thermostat.
-juice
Frank
-mike
I think the basis of the original article on pinging after warmup, and Nematode's description, was that the pinging went away after the engine was warmed up. This would support bringing the engine to operating temperature as soon as possible. I've not run across Water Wetter before but from your descriptions it would appear to help in the transfer of engine heat to the coolant, and then again in the transfer from the coolant to the radiator - a worthwhile goal in an overheating engine, but perhaps contrary to a complaint of the engine not warming up.
I confess I didn't go back to the original source, but think that there is a possibility that the engine management computer might contribute to pinging by adjusting the ignition timing, fuel/air mixture, or whatever in accordance with bad sensor readings.
I've tried to tune an old carburretted engine and fought pinging and detonation through gasoline grades, timing advance, changed jets in the carb, and even water injection. But I've never tried to out-guess a modern fuel-injected engine. The principles must be the same, only sensors and actuators managed by computers have replaced the simple mechanical linkages of old.
I offer the following for comment:
1. Typically a cold engine is run with a richer fuel/air mixture to keep the engine running without stumbling. Once the engine is brought to operating temperatures, the mixture is leaned to improve power and fuel economy. Remember the function of the choke on carburettors?
2. A fuel/air mixture that is too lean is a cause of pinging and detonation.
3. Typically you might expect an engine to not ping when cold because the richer mixture would help to prevent it, then as the mixture is leaned and the engine warmed the conditions would be more conducive to pinging (all other things being equal).
4. Nematode is reporting the opposite. His engine pings until warmed, at which point he says it goes away completely. If nothing else, Nematode should do what he can to warm his engine as soon as possible to avoid the pinging.
5. The fact that the pinging goes away when warmed up says that his engine computer is doing all the right things at that point. But the question is, why is it doing the wrong things while the engine is cold?
I'm sure there are a number of possibilities. I say that one of the sensors is reporting bad data.
Regards,
Steve
I think Subie radiators are too small, and drain and replace the anti freeze every year.
If it's gone that long, it would also be a good time to change the thermostat at the same time. They are relatively inexpensive.
-mike
http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/
bit
Interesting tid bit about the XT6's power steering mechanism, BTW.
-juice
bit
Ken
-juice
Greg
P.S. No dents in the hood. Pretty suprised considering she is 7 years old.
You could also call your dealer and ask who the use for scratch repair. There are lots of people like Dent Pro who also do scratches on site (your driveway) and CAN do a good job. But like everything a referral is important. Some use an airbrush but even then it is tough to get the clear coat to blend. Paisan says he has seen it done. Good luck.
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
-juice
When using rubbing compound, you need to follow up with a much more fine cut product like a glaze. Rubbing compounds are designed to cut through layers, not polish them. Try getting a bottle of glaze 3M Perfect It or Imperial Hand Glaze from a local auto store and see if it brings out the gloss. It's a small investment compared to paying for a hood repaint.
Ken
After inspecting the visible damage and resisting the urge to curl into a fetal position on my lawn, I used a few drops of Finish Prep non-abrasive cleaner (from finishfirstpolish.com) and the scratches disappeared! Like magic, I tell you! (I have not tried any other products)
These were light scraches tho, but noticeable.
-juice
Greg
-mike
Patti
Nonetheless, I agree it's a more serious problem that the dealer should look at. Maybe a short circuit somewhere.
-juice
Jim
-juice
-mike
Has the morning brake squeal issue been resolved?
Patti (SOA) earlier stated that she thought a fix would be published to the dealers sometime in Aug. I would like some confirmation before I call the dealer.
Thanks.
-mike
Ross
-mike
bit