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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kathytkathyt Member Posts: 4
    Red Forester sounded to me like a very reliable, laid back kind of name. These are qualities that I want in my car as well. I guess it's kind of like naming your daughter Chastity and hoping she'll live up to it ;).

    I don't know what work has been done to Red recently. Would you guys recommend getting the oil, etc changed now? I'm taking Red to the dealer to have him put on the computer before the 60,000 miles are up, so I could do it then. I'm not to the point yet where I can change oil myself, but I'd love to learn.

    The dogs love Red.

    Thanks!
    Kathy
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Kathy- The heated seats actually come in handy on long trips (even in the summer). The seat provides a kind of deep heat massage for the lower back. Originally I was skeptical when I saw someone else suggest it but it really does feel good. You have the cool air from the A/C blowing on you while your backside is comfortably toasty. You don't have to worry about the seat getting too hot because it automatically shuts off when it reaches a certain temperature. Then after it cools it will start heating up again.

    Re what services need to be performed: since you're coming up on the 60K mark I suggest you consider going ahead and have them perform the 60K services. That way you'll know that everything's current.

    -Frank P.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yep I do the same thing Frank on my trooper, A/C + heated seats = very comforting. :)

    -mike
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Kathy - sounds very nice. I can't wait to use the heated seats, mirrors and wipers when winter "comes a callin". Lots of luck.

    Greg - As for the AT Oil light, mine comes on when starting the car, but, it does not flash. It's on for about 3 seconds. Hey another Greg! 3,242 more and we can give Dave a run for the money.

    Greg
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Are the lifters on the current 2.5 H4 engine solids by any chance. They sure do clatter. This is the first time I really noticed... actually I guess its the first time I had the hood open with it running oddly enough.

    bit
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    As I understand it, the Phase I has hydraulic, and the Phase II solid.

    Regards,
    Frank
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think I've only used it once, but so far so good. I poke a hole in the bottom of the oil filter to drain the oil, which helps a lot.

    A fumoto valve would be a good idea if you do this.

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Does the H4 in your Forester clatter like a solid lifter car?

    bit
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
  • abahaziabahazi Member Posts: 1
    I have had my brakes checked 4 times now because they screech when I come to a slow stop. Each time, Subaru has cleaned the brakes, turned the rotors and have told me that they are fixed. Each time, they the screeching comes back, slowly but surely.
    Has anyone else had this problem? How do I get Subaru to fix my brakes?
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    I was with Paisan yesterday on the pre-run in the Pine Barrens. After we were done a couple of the guys said to replace the air filter because of all the sand we were driving through. I just had it replaced the day before as part of the 15000 service. Does it need to be replaced again, so soon? Can I just clean it instead?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    there's no lifters in the SOHC EJ series. they have roller-tipped rockers, one per intake valve and one per pair of exhaust valves. these rockers directly act on the cam lobes and valve retainers and are lash adjustable.

    my valve lash needs to be set badly, I have a ton of chatter. it's a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] though, and it's not a warranty item in my case. anyway if you have full oil and it's within Subaru's recommendations (so probably 5w30 or 10w30) then visit your dealer. if their demo cars make the same noise, chalk this one up to OCD. if yours is noticably louder and again, you're not low on oil, then ask them to set your valve lash to the minimum factory spec. it's not bad with a lift.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Frank, Bit:

    To add to Colin's message, the DOHC Phase I engines have solid lifters. They're also adjusted using shims so they make a racket when it's cold.

    I believe it was the fomer 2.2L engines that used hydraulic lifters.

    Ken
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Frank and Colin - Thanks for your response. Yeah, listened to a friends 01 OB and sounds pretty much the same... maybe an OCD tad louder on mine.

    bit
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Rotated my tires this weekend (6k on my 01 GT wagon). Measured all of the circumferences and they were nearly dead on. Decided to rotate in my full size spare as the tires with 6k on them were at most 1/16th less than the spare. Plus the spare sitll has the mold nubs on it so it was a little hard to get a good measurement. Going to give it a few miles and check again.

    bit
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Mark,
    I'd just take it out and bang it on your steps. I don't plan on replacing mine on my trooper, and I've been on 3 off-road trips since I replaced it.

    -mike
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    I think you will find that this is a sore point with many Forester owners though many of the bad points aren't mentioned in this forum. I have had my brakes serviced at least 8 times since my wife bought her 99 Forester and each time they clean, inspect and adjust and then they say they all do it. They growl grab ans squeek or squeel and I'm not talking about a cold morning start.I even tried to have them adjust the brake pedal because it was to spongey feeling and my wife did feel comfortable with it. Embarassing point once when it was in for service I asked to check brakes and the reaction was "what again, ok". but this time I marked several lug nuts on the all the wheels and when we picked the Forester up that night I notice that the lugs wee never taken off. A little embarrassing.
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    I used to have the same problem with my VW Golf (not at all with the Forester so far). The treatment was to go to a DIY car wash and thoroughly clean the rotor and pads with the high pressure wand. Problem solved for a couple of months. Actually I saw brake noise as a warning that the car needed a bath. :-)

    Ross
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    paisan's recommendation would probably work. You also might want to try brushing or light suction.

    That's one reason why I replaced my filters with Amsoil and K&N (wife's OB). You get 'em dirty, you just clean them.
    Are you going again this w/end?

    Dennis
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    have been noisy as of late. Even bought new pads to replace them, however, they were fine when I pulled the wheels. A good wash does help. Also, try driving backwards and slamming on your brakes a few times.

    Greg
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    I'll try and "bang" it out tonight. As for this weekend, I won't be available. Thats why I went yesterday, to at least get a taste of off road driving (it was my first time, as I'm sure Paisan and the others were able to guess).

    Mark
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You did good, the key is to have fun!

    The PB is close we can head down with like 4 cars any weekend we want to. So long as we have at least 2 or 3 in the group.

    -mike
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    Ken:


    I am confused. I saw this on Cobb Tuning


    http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/dohc/index.html


    "As they rotate, they push down on a Hydraulic Lash Adjuster which sits right on top of the valve stem. This design uses oil pressure to automatically adjust the valve lash which gives us a maintenance free head design."


    Colin:


    You are right of course about there not being lifters. I was focusing on the fact that there was nothing hydraulic and therfore it was a "solid" connection, so noise is normal. Having seen a valve lash setting that specified an actual clearance and not "zero lash" or "zero lash +" didn't help my limited thinking.


    Regards,

    Frank

  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Frank,

    Me too. That's what I was told by the Subaru Master Technician. Cobb Tuning is a good source so now I'm not too sure myself.

    Ken
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    I stopped by my dealer today just to have them take a listen. They said that it sounded normal to them (what I expected) but also said that not only are the valves noisy but a lot of what makes the clatter is the injectors. Wish I would have seen Franks post and I would have asked them.

    bit
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I have this problem on my 98 Legacy too, its apparently something to do with the semi metallic brake pads they use nowadays, given the right combination of rotor surface and brake pad wear you get the noise.
  • mortpeaberrymortpeaberry Member Posts: 69
    Bit - Are you sure you live in the SF bay area, your commute must be from your bedroom to your kitchen table. I live in santa cruz and I commute 5 minutes to work - we have 16k on our '01 that we picked up on thanksgiving last year.
    I believe our CA gas must blow all year 'round because I never get better than 24 MPG. Subaru Santa Cruz replaced our clutch (warranteed) and still it is not perfect - no other problems though - except loud injectors once in a while.
    Thanks - mort
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Yeah well I got my GT in February of this year and yeah my commute is from one end of my house to the other as I work at home. The GT is really just our road trip car and we leave next week on one and that will add 4 or 5K. I average 24+ around town but 28 on the road trips. Clutch has been fine other than an occasional first shift stutter. What was up with yours? I have noisy injectors or valve train all the time... at least more noisy than I like but as others say it porbably isn't so uncommon. Other than that it is a superb car.

    OT - I want to live in SC. Are the home prices coming down?

    bit
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I have a 2000 Legacy 5 spd w/35k miles since Oct '99. (yikes! I really haven't gone anywhere!!) It averages 24 mpg, however, on long trips it's a solid 30 mpg. One of these days, I'll start it up open the hood and listen to the engine.
    Having worked on other DOHC cars, I'm really impressed with the Subaru SOHC design (as seen on the Cobb website) roller bearing rocker arms and screw valve adjustment. A basically simple and effective design.
    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've been out for a while, but let me offer a late congrats to Kathy. Welcome and please stick around, OK?

    My brakes never seem to squeek. I should knock on wood, I guess.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Hi Patti,

    I e-mailed you about a week ago with a follow-up on the tranny whine I've been experiencing. Did you get it?

    Ken
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    I did and passed it on to our Senior Rep. Sorry I have not gotten back to you. I'll look into it today.

    Thanks for your patience.

    Patti
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Thanks, Patti. No need to rush. Just curious about it.

    Hope you have a good weekend despite the recent tragedies.

    Ken
  • zdriver1zdriver1 Member Posts: 6
    I received an offer from Subaru to get an extended warranty that will cover an additional 4 years on my 2000 Outback, up to 60k or 80k. Cost is $579 for the 60k and $871 for the 80k.

    My Sube was bought used from a dealer (previously a rental) and has been not had any problems through 21k. I will put on about 10k miles a year, since I commute mostly by train.

    I would appreciate opinions or experiences with this coverage.

    Thanks in advance..John
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I know there are differing opinions on this but having had to spend a small fortune on my 92 LS a few years ago (stupid pneumatic suspension and multiple engine sensors going out) I "splashed out" for the extended warranty on my 98 GT. Whatever price Subaru offers you in the mail , you can bet the dealer will (unless its a total jerk) knock off a third or more easily. I have already had almost $300 of post 3/36 warranty work on my 98. I was getting an oil change just last week and had to have my a/c recharged, they think there may be a problem with some valve or other though I'll know for sure when my a/c goes hot again and I bring it back to see where its leaking from. If it is a problem it'll cost over $500 just to fix the valve they are concerned about let alone anything else! Service manager said it would be completely covered by my extended warranty. Like any insurance its all probablities but I'm definitely getting my moneys worth this time!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'll address a different point - the costs of the warranty itself. The prices you were quoted are the lowest I've ever heard of. Most quotes range from $900 to $1200 or so.

    Make sure they are a true Subaru warranty, offered by the manufacturer, not a 3rd party. Also check if there is any deductible.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    You already have the most expensive components covered to 5yr/60k, that is the powertrain. Extending the bumper-to-bumper coverage to that same 60k does *not* seem worth $579 in my humble opinion.

    Never take the first offer, and read the fine print. If you're interested in those warranties after reading the fine print, start by offering HALF what they're asking for and slowly work your way up.

    -Colin
  • zdriver1zdriver1 Member Posts: 6
    The offer I received was from Subaru of America direct (via mail). There is a $100 deductible and payment can be made in 10 installments (no interest). Since this is my first Subie, I am not sure what repair costs are for things like the A/C, struts, etc. Are repairs cost toward the higher end of the spectrum? In other words, would one major repair cost the same as the warranty? My Outback is the base wagon with the h-4 engine & automatic.

    My previous vehicle was a 1991 Mazda Protege, whose only major repair was a strut covered under warranty and the exhaust system. It cost very little to maintain, other than normal maintenance. It was a manual and the clutch was still good after 92K miles when I sold it.

    On the other hand I did get an extended warranty for my 2000 Honda Odyssey with the power sliding doors. It was $850 for 100k miles. I figured with all the electronics in it, a longer warranty might be prudent.

    Thanks again & cheers..John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    IMO not a whole lot is going to fail within 4-5 years. You're more likely to need that type of work 8 or 10 years down the road.

    In 3+ years I have yet to use my warranty.

    -juice
  • brainphartloonbrainphartloon Member Posts: 2
    Last night my parking lamps stopped working. All other lamps work fine (headlamps, brakelights, reverse lights, turn signals).

    I am wondering if all parking lights stop working when one goes out. Can anybody give me suggestions? Thank you.
  • evilizardevilizard Member Posts: 195
    Start looking at fuses
  • brainphartloonbrainphartloon Member Posts: 2
    follow-up to post 2989

    All fuses are good, including the tail light fuse, all relays are good too. I don't really mind being w/o my parking lights, but my tail lights are not working, yet brake lights, all 5, work fine. Since my first post I have checked all the lamps and all 6(2 front turn signals 4 tail lights) have both filaments in good working order.

    Also, when I have my light switch turned to the middle position (parking light position), my instrument panel lights still work. I am starting to think that this issue is based in the parking light switch on top of the steering column.

    Does anyone have information on the parking light switch? Or where this issue lies? Thank you.
  • FrankMcFrankMc Member Posts: 228
    I have a '95 Impreza and a '97 Legacy and I am having the same symptoms with both cars. Infrequently (OK very infrequently), the cars gas guage gets wierd. One time I got gas and the guage went from 1/4 full to absolute empty. You then drive for awhile and then it either goes back to normal, or sometimes goes to say 1/2 a tank, and then eventually goes back to normal. It is not just after fill-ups either. It is very intermittent (and both cars have it on occasion). Since the solution to the problem is so simple I never really worried about it, but it happened last night on the Legacy again (Went wierd and came back in about 2 minutes) I figured I would ask if others have noticed something like this.

    Frank
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My Escort used to do that, and the dealer fixed it for me. I forget what the problem was, something with a sender unit.

    Like you, I rely on the trip odo primarily anyway.

    -juice
  • joseph50joseph50 Member Posts: 235
    When I got my Forester S at the beginning of the year I vowed I would not be bit by the CEL coming on due to a loose gas cap. Well, I recently transgressed that resolve for the second(!)time.
    This time I tightened the cap, went through another tank fill-up, and in 5 days the light went out.
    If I had done that the first time, I would not have gone and wasted a morning at the dealer's service center. I can assume I am OK, can't I, or should I take it in again anyway and have things checked out to be on the safe side?
    Thanks,
    Joe
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You're ok if it turned off by itself.

    If you ever get full service gas, like in NJ (it's law), then double-check the cap.

    -juice
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    Hi all. An update to my above referenced issue...it has been fixed and SoA took care of me 100%. They have a lifetime customer in me. I can give details if anyone is having a similar situation. Thanks to everybody for the advice.

    Jim
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    That's great to hear. Did SoA cover parts and labor?

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You are not necessarily ok. I had that happen on my Troopa, and when they pulled the code from the ECU, it turned out to be an EGR Valve and an ECU reprogram update and a Throttle position sensor adjustment. I had thought it was the gas cap thing as well.

    -mike
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