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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Was the car's bumper hit in a parking lot perhaps and the reason it is pealing due to the fact that it was compressed/stretched by an impact that didn't leave any damage but damaged the elasticity of the paint?

    -mike
  • fjordhorselynnfjordhorselynn Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I have an outback sport that has a problem w/ the A/T oil light flashing when driving on the highway. This has happened to me about five times in the past two years. Last night, it happened twice, and the check engine light also came on.

    Took it to the dealership and apparently there are two TSBs for this problem, involving parts that cost about $500 each. One TSB is covered under 80,000 mile warranty, the other one is not.

    To me this really doesn't seem fair as the two issues are tied together. I was also told I shouldn't drive the car as the computer problem could cause trouble with shifting.

    Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone have any success fighting to get the second TSB part paid for?
    Much thanks...
    Lynn

    P.S., of course, I was just yesterday telling my sister that I've had very few problems with this car!
  • moonsagemoonsage Member Posts: 19
    Juice & Craig ~

    Thanks for your advice in touching up my paint chipped spot. I'm not thrilled with my job, but should it ever happen again I'll have a bit more of a clue.

    I probably DID overdo it - was trying to do lots of small dabs, just up to the edge of the chip, when I think 2 or 3 broader strokes would have been smoother.

    The other issue was the weather - parts dept. told me to do it inside with at least 65 deg. temp. I have no garage, & although I did it mid-day, the temp wasn't quite up there. (& it won't be for awhile!) I think the paint would have gone on a bit more smoothly had it been warmer. I could have warmed the paint up in the sun for awhile.

    Well, lessons for next time.

    Jillian
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    web3:


    I have my '96 Legacy Gt serviced at Bill Kolb Jr. Subaru in Orangeburg, NY. Their service is fine. Here's the link.


    http://www.billkolbjrsubaru.com/

  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    It's hard to do a perfect job with touchup paint, lord knows I have tried many times. You want to get it in the chip/scratch, but also seal up the raw paint edge. Very hard to do without overlapping the original paint. Sometimes you need a dab, other times you need a stroke. I probably get it right 30% of the time. For the other 70%, I just take solace in the fact that I covered up the damage!

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Lynn: I take it you have more than 60k miles, beyond the powertrain warranty?

    Call the 800 number for Subaru, and open a ticket for the issue. Lobby SoA to pay for it, since it's a known, documented problem (the TSB proves that).

    If that still doesn't help, contact Patti Mickel at SoA with the case number, and she may be able to help out. Whether they'll cover it or not depends on the exact problem, I guess.

    -juice
  • mfaughnermfaughner Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Subaru Legacy. In the past week it started acting strange - it sort of seemed to 'miss' and jerk every once in a while. Then this morning, when I was going up a hill, it coughed a few times and the "Check Engine" light came on. I couldn't get to the manual to see why this might happen. I wondered if anyone here could give me some diagnostic ideas. It has 95,000 miles on it but has been maintained very well. I love my Subaru and wouldn't buy anything else. It got me through an ice storm last week and I love this car. I just wondered how much it will cost to fix whatever is wrong. Thanks for any help. Marilyn
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Unfortunately it'll probably take a mechanic to diagnose your problem.

    These are just educated guesses, but it could be an O2 sensor, fouled spark plugs, bad spark plug wires, clogged air or fuel filters, etc.

    The CEL by itself could just be a loose gas cap, but the coughing implies something is wrong with the engine, though it could be minor.

    Take it to a mechanic you trust. He'll have an OBD2 scanner to read the CEL code and find out exactly why it was triggered. At 95k, I'd go ahead and service all the items above if they haven't alreay been done, plus the all the belts and hoses.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Don't forget the PCV valve. I had an engine on another brand that ran rough for a while. Replacing the PCV valve for $5 helped a lot and can usually be done yourself.

    Oxygen Sensors. Oh Yeah. If they seem expensive try www.buyoxygensensors.com Get the OEM over the universal. Connections will be more reliable, less labor to install.
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    I'm getting ready to switch over to Mobil 1 on my next oil change. I have one question though: Once you change over, is the frequency of doing an oil change the same, every 3000 miles, or does it get increased? Thanks.

    Mark
  • arluk3arluk3 Member Posts: 1
    My car died at 50 mph, I found no voltage at the fuel pump. Couldn't find fuel pump relay, so I put in new wiring from fuse box to fuel pump. It ran well after that, but only for 100 miles and then the fuel pump died. Is there something wrong with doing this kind of temporary fix that kills fuel pumps ? Thanks.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    had a similar problem several years ago with my 92, it was a bad sensor, the camshaft angle sensor or something or other. IIRC it cost somewhere between 100 and 200 bucks to replace.
  • fjordhorselynnfjordhorselynn Member Posts: 3
    juice,
    Thanks for the advice about entering a ticket with SoA, I'll definately give it a try.

    Interestingly, though, I remembered that I had brought the car in around 12,000 miles with the same problem. Searched my packrat disaster area and found the service sheet (whew!). All they did was reset the computer at that time. I'm hoping this document will be my ace in the hole if they don't want to help me otherwise, since I did originally report the problem while it would've been under warranty (though the TSB probably hadn't been issued yet).
    Thanks again...Lynn
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Lynn: sounds like you're right on track. Good luck with getting it resolved quickly.

    -juice
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    Please follow the advise Juice gave you. Make sure that you have the VIN for your Subaru, the mileage and the name of the dealer you are working with.

    Patti
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Mark,

    In general, synthetics can go for longer intervals without changing. There isn't one change interval works for everyone since a lot of factors like driving habits and engine condition can alter the oil breakdown rate. The only way to know is to have your oil analyzed, but that's overkill for most people. One thing you can do is to visually inspect your oil when checking levels. If it starts looking cloudy or dark, it's time to change.

    Based on what I've heard, you can go well beyond the change interval of conventional oil: 5-7K miles on the conservative side.

    One thing to keep in mind is that you still need to change your oil filter even if you go for longer oil change intervals.

    Ken
  • moonsagemoonsage Member Posts: 19
    The first scheduled oil change on my new Bean is 3000 miles, but somewhere I heard that a change at 1000 miles is good. Any thoughts on this? & is there any reason to use synthetic at the early changes?

    I'm assuming that the "free" service that's part of the package (oil changes at 3000, 7500, then every 7500 miles to 30,000) doesn't include synthetic; I may be wrong here. At those distances, based on what (little) I know, I would prefer synthetic.

    Jillian, & the Bean at 970 miles.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You can go with the "severe" schedule, and it should still be covered for free. Neither will include synthetic, but you could probably bring your own oil or pay extra.

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I did a 'pre-emptive' oil change at 1100 miles, more because it made me feel good, than any other rational reason. The book says 3k miles, and that is probably fine provided the block and parts were relatively clean when assembled. But being OCD-positive, I ask "what if it were not"??? So I spent about $12 on oil and a genuine Subaru filter, and got to know my new car better. And maybe, just maybe, I also increased it's service life by a little bit (or simply wasted some money and a bit of time).

    I have never used synthetics before. I don't have a strong opinion one way or the other on them. True, they flow a bit better at low temp, and are structurally more sound at high temp, but if you change on schedule will you ever see an appreciable difference in engine performance or wear for the life of your car? If you live in NY, it will surely rust to death long before the engine siezes up!!!!

    Steve
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    When my H4 OB was new, I changed the oil at 1200 miles and then at 3000 miles. I had the dealer do both for warranty reasons. At 10k miles I switched to Mobil 1. I plan on changing the oil and filter every 5-6K miles with Mobil 1. Currently, there is about 15K on the odo. I am following the same routine for my Sienna. FYI- my beloved Camry was going strong at 180K when I traded it for my OB. I changed the oil about every 4-5K with dino. Never burned a drop of oil or had any problems.

    arluk - sounds like it was your fuel pump from the beginning and rewiring was not necessary. I would replace the pump, check voltage at the pump and see what happens. Good luck.

    Greg
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    does a free oil change at 1500km (1000 miles). I had another done at 5000km. Cheap insurance IMHO.

    Ross
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    You will be surprised at how well auto manufacturers have gotten with rust problems. If you look at CR's recent data, there is a huge improvement in rust problems over the past 20 years. I think if you maintain a well engineered car (i.e. Subaru) it is unforseen situations that forces you to get a new car. i.e. accidents, life changes, promotion, introduction of WRX, etc.

    Greg
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    unforseen situations that forces you to get a new car. i.e. ... introduction of WRX

    LOL Greg, sounds like you pegged Mr. Barrett (barressa11). Me too, had it been a B4 or GT-B.

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think the whole industry has gotten better at rust prevention, with galvanized steel in the vulnerable areas. I only see rust form around damaged areas that were not fixed properly, at least most of the time.

    -juice
  • moonsagemoonsage Member Posts: 19
    Well, for $12 & a little time getting to new the car better, & since my goal is to keep this thing running to the quarter million mark, guess I'll commit to that 1000 mile oil change.

    arluk - may I assume this means you tote an Arluk III to the ocean? It's my second favorite boat; my fave is the one I tote - my Eddyline Raven.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    LOL - good one about the reasons for new wheels.

    While the rust issue is better than it was, rust still doesn't sleep (to misquote an old song). My '90 Camry wagon was rusting out by the time I sold it in '97. Door bottom inside seams were swelled out, as was several points on the tailgate. Not uncommon for that series up here. Similar problems starting on my '93 Corolla wagon (traded in on the '02 OBW). On that car it was all hidden rust - gas tank and supports failure, structural problems beginning to show.

    Maybe they use more salt here than in Putnam/Westchester?

    Steve
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    As I live in Putnam also, my 92 Camry was 9 years old and 180K miles when I traded it for the OB last year. Only minor rust on one of the doors (inside weld). None on the structure, exhaust, etc. Interesting. But, I do agree that "rust never sleeps". Better to burn out than......

    Greg
  • ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    well it's that time. I've decided that i had enuf of them crapions! So got myself a set of NGKs. Now I need to know the proper plug gap for the EJ25 engine. Please show me the number!!!

    thanks all.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Look in your owner manual

    -mike
  • ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    i've searched thru it already.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Cause all my owners manuals (subie and otherwise) always give the gap.

    -mike
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    It's in the manual under specifications.

    0.039 to 0.043 in., 1.0 to 1.1 mm

    Regards,
    Frank
  • bg18947bg18947 Member Posts: 184
    Just checked, I don't see it in the 2000 Owner's Manual, nor do I see it in the Service Manual published by Helm. But, I believe it is on one of the vinyl labels in the engine compartment. What year Subaru do you have Frank?

    -BG
  • dukephotodukephoto Member Posts: 49
    On another Subaru board, there was a posting from www.magnetbra.com
    I have been thinking about getting a deflector or bra for my '01 VDC-now have paint chips- A VERY BIG :(
    Anyone have one of these magnetic bras?
    They claim no paint fading, rubbing, etc., but you can never believe a salesman.
    But you guys I trust......

    DUKEPHOTO IN WV
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Well, this is a new one for me. I've never heard of the magnetbra before, but I do have a couple of thoughts.

    First, make sure the paint surface is absolutely free of all water, dirt and dust before applying the bra. Anything caught between the bra and paint will cause paint damage.

    Second, the fact that there is no fading or oxidation is actually a problem. No matter how we care for the paint not covered by the bra, it's still going to oxidize and change color because of UV exposure and environmental fallout. It's a fact of life, paint colors change with age. Since the paint under the bra is protected, it will not change as readily as the rest of the paint. Hence, in time you will see a difference in the paint colors when you remove the bra.

    Third, since it's not bolted down, I have a lingering concern about wind lifting the edges and even possibly shifting the bra. The website claims this doesn't happen, but I still wonder.

    On the other hand, the website is absolutely correct about the problems with vinyl bras and bug shields. They too have their drawbacks. If you're paint finish was new, I'd recommend a Clear Bra or Invizibra. Since you already have chips, though, don't use these since the existing damage will just show through.

    If you go with a magnetbra, let us know how it goes!
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Like my other two cars, at around 120K the valve covers started leaking. Is this a normal issue with the H-6, or did I just have a run of bad luck?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What H6 do you have? XT6 or SVX?

    -mike
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    Got it out of the PDF I downloaded from Subaru for my '01 Forester. I didn't actually look in the paper version, but I will, just out of curiosity. In the PDF it is under Specifications/Electrical System.

    Regards,
    Frank
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Interesting concept, and I am in the market for some sort of paint protection for my new Bean. If it weren't for the questionable looking edge trim on the magnet bra, I would order one of these and give it a try.

    I would worry about moisture and abrasive stuff getting under there, no matter what the website says. As a teenager, I drove a lot of construction trucks with magnetic signs. After a few months, they would always collect moisture and abrasive stuff that would "buff" away the finish underneath.

    No matter what these guys say, there is nothing to stop moisture from getting under the magnet bra. Any two surfaces in close contact with each other will really wick moisture in (capillary effect) unless there is something in between (adhesive) to block it.

    At $45, it may be worth a try. I think the invisibra is still a better choice, or even the hood deflector. Subaru deflectors have a good design that shouldn't damage the paint at all.

    Craig
  • dan2001dan2001 Member Posts: 17
    Just had my first bumper scuff/scrape on my 2001. I'm heart broken. It was enough to actually lose some paint off the plastic bumper.
    Where is the best place to buy touch up paint? Or should I have the dealer take a try at it?

    Thanks, Dan
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    On Sunday I was driving my '01 Forester S through an unfamiliar parking lot when I struck a curb that was hidden under a pile of snow. I hit it on an angle and really felt a jolt, even though I wasn't going very fast. Actually, I was turning, and was probably doing about 5 MPH or less. I got out and checked, and to my horror, saw that there was a gouge in my alloy wheel. It was at the very edge of the rim, but there didn't appear to be any major damage. The next morning, I checked the air pressue and found that it was 8 PSI low. I took it to a tire shop to be checked and found there was a small pinhole leak, dead center in the side wall, a couple inches off from where I hit the curb. They said they could put in a tube, but I didn't like that idea, even for use as a spare. So, I forked over $117 for a new Yoko Geo, which, of course, was not in stock. It will be in this afternoon, so I have to go back and have it mounted. I know I could have gotten one from Tire Rack for about $76, but I didn't want to wait. I'm glad that the wheel wasn't damaged, other than a relatively small cosmetic blemish. I have an appointment at the dealer in 2 weeks, so I'll have them check the front end for any damage or misaligment, but everything else seems OK. Maybe the tire gave it's life for the rest of the suspension. And at such a young age (only 16K). It's been a bad weekend. I fell and broke my wrist at work on Saturday. Arghhhh! Hopefully my streak of bad luck is over for now.

    Len
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    But you should have them check the circumference of the other tires v. the new tire. If it is less than 1/4" you may need to get 4 tires.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Isn't the gap listed under the hood or something like that? Anyone want to check?

    Dan: touch-up paint is something like $5, so I'd just go to the nearest dealership.

    Len: bummer. Life come in cycles, so you're due for a bout of good fortune.

    120k on an H6? Was that a typo? Do you drive for a living?

    -juice
  • ramonramon Member Posts: 825
    it's 1mm or 0.04" for you yanks. =)
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Len,

    Sorry to hear about your streak of bad luck. I'm sure once you get the new tire installed, things will be better!

    Ken
  • shortlidshortlid Member Posts: 50
    Does this seem right?? seems high to me!!

    Subaru of Wilton, Inc. 657 Danbury Road * Wilton, CT 06897 Phone (203) 761-9700 Fax (203) 761-0213

    SERVICE ADVISOR: 9618 GERALD ULBRICHT

    Color Year Make/model VIN License MILEAGEIN/OUT
    Silver 98 LEGACY WAGON 4S31BK4352W7312113 59605/59608
    Rate INV. Date
    75.00 15JAN02

    LINE OPCODE TECH TYPE HOURS LIST NET TOTAL


    A
    CUSTOMER STATES: REPAIR BRAKES AS PER LAST INSPECTION.
    RBJ REAR BRAKE JOB MACHINED ROTORS/DRUMS AND
    REPLACED PADS/SHOES
    9752 VICTOR WINIGER LIC#: 9752
    CP 2.50 187.50 187.50
    1 26296AA062 BRAKE PAD KIT R 72.50 72.50 72.50
    1 BC11 BRK CLEAN 5.95 5.95 5.95

    NOTE: WE RECOMMEND PERFORMING THE 60,000 MILE TUNE UP SERVICE. COURTESY RENTAL CAR.

    B** CUSTOMER STATES:SOMETIMES THE CAR LABORS WHEN SHIFTING IN CRUISE CONTROL. MISC ROADTEST AND INSPECT VEHICLE FOR SHIFT PATTERN. WE WERE NOT ABLE TO DUPLICATE PROBLEM AT THIS TIME.
    @9752 9752 VICTOR WINIGER
    CP 0.00 0.00 0.00
    C** CUSTOMER STATES: PERFORM OIL CHANGE WTTH COUPON AND INSPECT FOR SERVICE. LOFSP $23-95 OIL CHANGE SPECIAL

    Description Totals
    Labor amount 200.98
    Parts amount 88.92
    Gas, oil, lube
    Misc. charges 2.66
    Total charges 292.56
    Sales Tax 17.56
    Pay this amount 310.12
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    With drums I believe they have to take them off the car to machine them. Discs can be resurfaced with an on-car lathe. So drums may cost more.

    It wasn't just the pads, FWIW.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My dad just paid $350 for 4 to be redone @ midas with replacement rear rotors. So $300 @ the dealer isn't bad for what you had done.

    -mike
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Well, I just ordered some 3M paint protection film from www.clearbra.com. They sell a custom kit for the Outback that covers the hood leading edge and the mirrors for $99. I added in some tools to bring the total to $125 or so.

    I was skeptical about doing this myself, but after going through the FAQ and install pictures on their web site, it doesn't look that bad. Certainly, the Outback's hood is far less complicated than some of the other cars on the road. I used to install stripes and decals on boats, and this looks to be about the same or easier. We'll see. Hopefully I will get a chance to put the stuff on this weekend.

    Craig
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    I checked my '01 Forester's paper Owner's Manual today and it has the gap listed exactly as the PDF version does, in Specifications/electrical.

    Regards,
    Frank
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