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Comments
they don't seem to be fixable after the engine cooks real nice, even just one time.
-Colin
Sorry to hear that. FWIW, I called a dealer in town here, and they indicated they had 3 sets of the revised HG p/n 11044AA610 in stock. Let me know if you want the phone number, maybe they could UPS or FedEx it?
Colin:
Since I have this engine, the issue is on my mind as well. I had a good conversation w/ a Subaru service guy recently and here's a summary:
1) In his opinion, overheating causes the HG problems, not the other way around. OTOH, many folks have not seen the temp gauge indicate anything out of the ordinary until it was too late.
2) I asked him if there were any pre-emptive measures to take to avoid problems. He suggested coolant system maintenance, replacing t-stat, and replacing radiator cap to insure all are working properly. Also, make sure the H2O pump is working properly. As you said, do not let things overheat.
utahsteve
Steve
Colin -- I thought you were pretty happy with stock pads, no?
Well, my Phase I is at 86K now and so far so good...
Ken
DaveM
the stock BMW pads perform extremely well, but they dust very heavily. I hate that
On my friend's car we're trying EBC greenstuff to see how they do. I'll probably try Hawk HPS on my M3 --needs pads soon by the sound of the squealers.
-Colin
Steve
For one-man brake bleeding operations. Fits most bleeder screws. One way valve allows fluid out but stops fluid and air from returning.
Works great. You do have to go in the car to pump the brakes and make sure your master cylinder level is maintained. I also keep the valve below the fluid level in the overflow jar because I'm not too sure of the quality of valve not allowing any return air.
It should be easy enough to make. Just use the typical brake bleeding tubing and a one-way valve (I don't know where to get these).
-Brett
Thanks again Matt
As for pads, i've experienced good things with the Hawk HP+ pads, the impreza guys run them at the track and love em.
Carbotech are great but big $ compared to the others.
-mike
Try to find a service place with Hunter equipment - it's probably the best balancing equipment out there. http://www.gsp9700.com/ - the site has a locator for finding a place near you that has one.
Also, don't let the dealer bully you around like that. Take your business elsewhere (hopefully another Subie dealer is nearby).
-Brian
When I brought my car in to the dealer for service, I was told that they were astonished and had never heard of the problem previously. Then, the service manager called to tell me he was in touch with Subaru USA and "you are 1 of 4 cases nationally." My car spent thirteen day in service. The Fuel pump relay was replaced. This is the most serious problem I have ever had with a car. I have become afraid to drive the car, not knowing when it is going to shutdown. This is one of several problems with this car. I am getting no more than 15 MPG and the service department answer is my mileage is unacceptable."
Do I have a lemon? Has anyone else heard of OR experienced similar problems?
It's possible in that case that the aftermarket alarm is interfering with the system electronics. If you happen to have an aftermarket alarm (not the OEM Subaru Security Upgrade), then perhaps this will help point them in the right direction.
If it is not aftermarket, then give Subaru a call (1-800-SUBARU3) and start a case with Customer Service.
Regarding the mileage, are you doing a lot of city mileage (stop/go, short trips)? Do you drive with the vehicle in 'D' or '3'? How does the engine run otherwise (smooth reving, smell of rich burning exhaust)?
-Brian
Thank you for your input. Unfortunately, the problem is not so simple. The dealer says that Subaru USA is aware of the problem. I have no OEM security system, except for the one that came with the car as standard equipment. The mileage problem is frustrating because I am getting nowhere near the average mileage listed on sticker. Anyway, the car is back in the shop. Thanks again.
That problem seems similar to mine except the entire electrical also shutdown. I had to put the car in Neutral while driving and restart the car. I believe that it is an H-6 engine. How many times did you have to send the car in for service? I wonder if you were one of the four problems nationally? Do you know of anyone else? What did they tell you?
First, thanks for all the messages in this and other forums. Very useful information.
I am planning to buy a Forester, but I have a big decision to make. I am thinking of a 2003 XS Premium (manual). These days, one can buy it for a reasonable price. The only problem is that I will be out of country for 6 weeks around October. I am just wondering if parking the car for 6 weeks, 4 months after buying it, would cause any problems for the car. My other option is to wait until I am back and then buy a 2004 model. Any ideas?
(Of course, I am still thinking if I should get an XT instead. That's another cause of a headache for me...)
Thanks!
Regarding the mileage, with the electrical problems you've had, I'd fix that before looking into the MPG. Easier to investigate that way.
Also, please join us in the Subaru Crew discussions http://townhall.edmunds.com/cgi-bin/townhall.subaru or through the Owner's Club topics.
-Brian
huzun: I'd change the oil right before I left, and then again when I got back. It should be OK. You might need to charge the battery when you get back, or maybe disconnect the negative battery terminal before you leave.
Now is a good time to buy if you want a good price. The 2004s are coming and incentives are up on the 2003s. I helped my sister buy one this weekend for invoice minus the regional incentive, plus 6 free oil changes.
-juice
( http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=3- 6 ), though I can't find the thread now. Someone posted a scanned copy of a TSB, # 03-51-02, dated 1/15/03, which prescribed replacent of flywheel, disc and pressure plate with updated parts on all '99 - '03 vehicles with a shudder problem. I saved the scanned copy, if anyone would like to see it; obviously, I can't vouch for its authenticity. With my '99 out of warrenty, would I have a ghost of a chance of free replacement?
Thanx! -- George
My wife and I have had more wrong with our 2002 Outback than right. Back in the shop again!
(NUMBER 5) Car has less than 20000 miles. Worst most unreliable vehicle we have ever owned.
The shutting off thing . I would prefer that to what our crappy car does.
Ours shutters first, bucks like a damn bronco then accelerates by itself rapidly forward. Be quick on the brake or you'll smash into someone....... Scares the bajeebers out of you. Ours sits parked a lot 'cause my wife is afraid of it. I prefer our gas sucking p-up truck.
P.S. For those of you who love Subs..
I am happy for you ..
I'm tempted to ask for a free new clutch, though mine is OK. ;-)
-juice
-Frank P.
P.S. Sorry your Subaru experience has been so bad. Hope you have better luck with whatever you replace it with.
http://autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon2.html
Though the word "lemon" is overused, often it has to be less than a year old to qualify for that term (legally).
-juice
The mistuned AM radio noise the transmission makes is present on all the the Subaru Outback cars I have been in. When you get over ~60mph the car tranny sounds like the radio is between AM stations. The shop does not know WHY they do it. They even tried replacing the transmission...... They cant fix it. Some are worse than others. The rest of the stuff the car is doing is plain dangerous, not JUST annoying.
FWIW, no mistuned AM noise from the tranny here in my '00 Outback.
-Brian
It truly sounds JUST like a radio is on and squealing quietly in the background ALL of the time. If you like to ride in the quiet (i.e., no tunes ) it drives ya nuts.
Thanks,
JL
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Also, have you tried rotating the tires? Normal rotation is front->back, but perhaps a X rotation may help?
Lastly, do call the Subaru 800# and start a casefile if you haven't already. It could help get the right SOA technician into the communication loop with the dealer (whichever one you end up with).
-Brian
I was little dismayed to note the noise in the car I just purchased which I didn't notice before because of a.the sales person talking continually during the test drive, or b. the noises are just now starting at (car has about 80 miles on it now.
I do not have super-sensitive hearing as someone was saying of another earlier poster. But these noises do get irritating (hair-pulling after the first few minutes) and I'm trying to imagine being accompanied by them on long drives. I really do want to like this car, I even bought it some rubber mats and mudflaps...
Noise list:
Stero:
-Crackling sound coming from right speaker with CD or radio no matter what volume.
-Buzzing in right speaker when volume is over 7. -Forget turning the volume over 7 or 8 or significant distortion occurs,(I'm not looking for the latest sound in a trick stero just not Blaaaat!!! when the sightest bass shows up in a song that you've turnd up high enough to actually hear.)
-Woofing sound/sensation, for want of a better word, with stero at any volume that is audible, actually makes my ears ache, like being bassed without sound.
Car:
-Buzzing from right edge of dash, hit a slight bump in the highway, buzzzz for several minutes after. Hwy a little less than smooth, bzzzzzz.
-Buzzy rattly noise from right side, mid to rear,door window, frame, I can't tell.
Warbling- This may sound weird but I swear there is some kind of high pitched hummy, warbly chuffing sound when I am going at higher speeds, 50-60 or so. It's like a dull ringing, I'll have to try the am radio station thing because maybe that describes what I'm hearing. I swear I am not making this up.
Vibration-
-This is the worst discovery. When in any gear but Park or Neutral I feel like I'm holding onto a pad sander. There is a fine high speed vibration that travels from the lower frame into the seat and steering wheel. It makes your teeth buzz. I got the automatic because of the problmes with the manual clutch. Do all automatics do this? This could get old on a long drive and unfortunately I do a lot of long haul driving.
The last vehicle I had for any length of time was a Mazda B2600 2.6 pickup so it's not like I'm comparing my Forester's amenities to the latest Lexus. I'm beginning to think that I didn't fully appreciate the Mazda its rough charm though I do appreciate it maintaining the cabin when last year I was hit broadside and flipped by a car traveling at 60 mph. Not what I expected from a little pick-up, thank some guardian angel.
Next car purchase will be from somewhere that lets me take a demonstrator model home for a day. Forget upgrading the speakers , I think I'll need earplugs to travel across country.
thank you, I was looking at the "subaru Problems" title and forgot I was in M&R.
I wish I had found the edmunds discussions groups and other info sooner! oh wel,l next time.
JL
JL
Until then, you should still consider posting over in the Subaru Crew - Meet the Members topic, as many of the regulars hang out there and could possibly offer more advice on the problems you guys are having. Seems like this topic doesn't have a direct link from within the Subaru Crew Owners Club, so it's possible that some don't even know this M&R topic exists! Here's a direct link to the Subaru Crew home page: http://townhall.edmunds.com/cgi-bin/townhall.subaru
-Brian
Be careful, I visited 2 dealers this week and experienced something of a shell game from both along with pressure to sign before it was time. One had responded via internet with a quote and assured me by phone that they could meet my price but things changed after I drove an hour to the dealership.
I would print out the invoices on the various pricing sites where many of these dealers are listed to have on hand if need be. I got an email form a 3rd dealer with a price quote in B&W but unfortunately afer I had already paid alot more at another dealer. Patience is fortitude!
I'm not an expert but I just read where the prices on the 04 models are only going up $50 bucks, (Subaru press release site I think) and interest in Subarus is down some, so there may be deals to be had with many of the 04 models, maybe not the turbo thing, but given depreciation it might be worth it to wait for the 04's. I think I'd do that if I had it to do over.
:-)
Wait 'till the shop manager sais
" MAN, that would drive me nuts" when he is speaking about YOUR new car and all of the noises they dont know how to fix!
My wife and I dream of the day when we can pawn off our nasty new Outback and get something quieter like a diesel train.
You've done your venting and we get your point that your unhappy with your Subaru.
Now lets return to these discussion boards being places for solutions and problem solving. Your venting and frustration is getting old.
Barkley
Do you have a sun roof? Many sun roofs when fully open will cause a "chuffing" or "whump-whump-whump" sound over certain speeds. That is why many sun roofs have an intermediate stopping point about 2/3 to 4/5 of the way back. On my Lincoln Mark VIII, the sun roof can be open all the way up to about 35mph, but above that you have to use the 4/5 stop. On my Subaru OB wagon, the sunroof has a stop point at about 2/3 for the same reason.
The stereo sounds like a bad right speaker. You should get the dealer to replace it under the warranty.
As to the other noises, I will have to let those more knowledgeable than I weigh in.
Good luck!
--K9Leader
The Forester generates a lot of wind noise simply because of its shape and the fact that it has roof crossbars. The side mirrors also hum a good bit at certain speeds, but that goes away above or below those speeds. Physics wasn't my strong suit so I won't get into vibrational frequencies and such.
Your radio problems may be the result of a damaged right speaker - maybe the speaker cone material is torn. The dealer should be able to easily remove the panel over the speaker, examine it for damage and replace if necessary.
Window area noise could just require track adjustments, again can be performed by the dealer.
The other little buzzes can be a pain in the rear to isolate. I've had that happen with many other cars in my lifetime; sometimes it's just a matter of letting someone else drive the car while you listen and isolate, then tighten down an offending bolt or screw.
Not sure what to tell you about the transmission vibration. I also have an automatic (and a pad sander) but haven't experienced the sensations you describe.
Good luck,
Ed
But yes, please, let's try to keep this discussion constructive. :-)
Yes, I am lobbying to get official SoA presence on these boards. I have about 15 letters I'll be submitting tonight to one of their VPs.
-juice
I will keep it lighter.
I actually have found a few things here that have helped ( other than just venting from frustration ).
My apology to those I have bored to tears.
For those of whom have helped me find answers,
THANK YOU sincerely.....
Lance
(just kidding)
-juice
I don't have a moonroof, I should have one! given what I paid but that's another story. The tires are inflated to 29 in front 30 in the rear. Maybe the vibration is from the tires being so new or am I reaching here? I thought perhaps with a few more miles on me and the car and maybe there would be less hum and jitter.
I'm trying to be optimistic.
JL
JL and junkher: Not boring at all. Buying a new car is a big investment and if it's not right in your mind, then you want the problems rectified. I can tell you my Forester hasn't been perfect, but with the help of people on this board - including past SoA presence - and a calm, rational approach to Edmund's participants, the Subaru dealer service departments and SoA, I've been able to have those problems addressed to my satisfaction. In many of those cases the problems were addressed much more quickly than I expected, which has made me a pretty satisfied customer.
Ed