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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • yellowbikedon1yellowbikedon1 Member Posts: 94
    I was always more than satisfied with Liberty Subaru. I'd guess (assuming they still work at the shop) either Elisha or Axel will be checking your car. They're both super!

    When you stop in, please say "hello" for me. And, if get a chance, ask to meet Elmer Hansen, the Subaru Product Manager. He really knows the make and is usually willing to share his thoughts with people. Tell him Marianne and I say "hello."

    Don
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I'll be giving them a call in the morning, and I'm sure they'll be able to get me in there this week. I do know one of the salesmen there, Earl Belongia, although he's more of their Jeep sales guy.

    I will look for those you mentioned and say hello!

    -Brian
  • yellowbikedon1yellowbikedon1 Member Posts: 94
    Don
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    It's definitely YMMV with synthetic gear oil in Subes.
    I've used Amsoil 75w90 (standard synth, not Series 2000) for a year and a half and never had grinding problems.
    One of the North Jersey i-clubber's said he got grinding with it, although a different guy didn't with the same MY RS. IMHO, it could be a different shifting technique.

    The main reason that I switched to synthetic gear oil is winter. My shifter was an absolute bear when temps got down to freezing and below. With Amsoil, it shifts like it's summer year 'round. Stay away from M1 though. It's not good for Scooby transmissions.

    -Dennis
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The GL rating is correct. That is the big thing on gear oil for trannies. My XT6 and I believe all subies take GL5 which is different than most other MTs.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, there's also a GL4, so check the labels.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    OK, contacted Liberty Subaru (NJ?) about ordering the filters and washers. Here is their reply:

    "Greg, thank you for contacting us here at Liberty Subaru. The oil filters
    list for $8.95 and cost $4.49 each. If you buy a case of 12 the price drops
    to $4.00 each. The drain seals list for .84 and cost .63 each. Shipping for
    5 would be about $5.30 and shipping for a case would be about $6.10. If you
    would like to place an order you can contact us at 1-888-782-9493 Monday
    thru Friday 7:30 am to 6:00 pm
    Thank You"

    So today I ordered a case. Anyone want to have an oil change party? Juice - thanks for the tip.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have about a dozen spare filters, so I'm good for a while. :-)

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well my brake problem on the XT6 is fixed. We swapped over the rotors from the 88 XT6 AT to the 91 XT6 MT. :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Interesting, so the older rotors were better?

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The old ones only had 90K on them, the new ones may have had 129K. Also they weren't warped which I think was the issue with the ones on the 91.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Nice to have a spare parts car, eh?

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Although it has been sold already just waiting for the guy to finish paying me and then it'll be shipped to TX.

    -mike
  • joe_sinjoe_sin Member Posts: 32
    Seeking advice. I have an annoying ding in the left passenger door of my 2002 Forester. Probably wouldn't be noticed, but I see it even when I'm not looking at it. The paint is intact.

    Can anyone out there recommend someone who does paintless dent removal? The local dealer uses someone, but they also seem to have a relationship with a nearby body shop. For a few scratches on the other side of the car, they wanted to paint the entire side. No thanks. I just want the ding smoothed out so that it's less noticeable without shooting any paint.

    I live in the New York metro area. Anywhere in Brooklyn or Manhattan would be pretty convenient, but I'll go where the talent is.

    Thanks in advance...
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Reserve two for me........

    Thanks, Steve
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    How much do you all pay? and where do you get them?

    I checked out two local auto parts stores and they each had Fram filters for $12.50. I've never paid over $4 (I think) for my old truck or minivan. I checked Walmart and another discount supply store and they didn't carry ones for Subies.

    Guess I might be calling Liberty Subaru too...

    --Jay
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I think you might be mistaken about the price of your old air filters. They've always been near $10 if not more in my experience.

    But the reusable foam air filters we were discussing are available from AMSOil for about $35-40. After three reuses it has paid for itself and flows better than paper to boot!

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    $12 sounds about right for a paper filter.

    Oil filters are usually cheaper. Fuel filters can also be pricey.

    -juice
  • kate5000kate5000 Member Posts: 1,271
    got a note to visit nearby dealership for ECM reprogramming... do I really have to do it? My Forester runs beautifully (knock on the wood), no hesitation whatsoever, very smooth. I'm a believer for "don't fix it if it ain't broken".

    what do you think I should do: get it reprogrammed or?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd get it done. It is only an update that makes the CEL less sensitive, it is not a complete re-programming. Just my 2 cents'.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I'd do it too. The only ECU-related recall I'd advise anyone not to do would be for a 2.5L DOHC 1998 Forester or Impreza RS.

    Early examples had more power but apparently something is "out of spec" and they take a hit once "fixed".

    Brian and Ralph Priebe talked about this at the 2000 Solo2 nationals since Brian was driving an "unfixed" '98 RS.

    Anyway Kate I agree with juice in your case...

    -Colin
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Just looked at Checker Auto parts over lunch. filter for my old truck was $5.99 and Van was $6.99 and Subie was 12.50. Given I usually buy at a Fleet Farm (Small chain in WI and MN. Its cross between Walmart and Home Depot)
    The price would have been between $4 and $5 for my old truck.

    That $13 filter for the subie sounds expensive. I suppose they don't make as many as the ones for domestic cars/trucks?

    Maybe time for that K&N or other re-usable ones. They don't sound that expensive anymore.

    -jay
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Got our Outback 'done' on Friday. First tank came back at 27 mpg, which is consistant with similar trips that I've done with my lead foot and all. Ours was CE-less also, so I was slightly hesitant to get the update. Engine performance seems to be the same as before, at least to my SOTP feel. (though I did wish that they secretly 'unlocked' the hidden twin turbo ;) )

    I'm still a bit confused on whether this reprogramming is just updating the ECM or 'reseting', ie, like after a battery disconnect. Does it need to relearn everything again, or is it just a parameter update? So far, it seems like a parameter update to me, since our Outback is running much like it was prior to the update. Now, as for it tracking straight, that's a whole different animal that I uncorked. More on that later this week.

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Interesting, Colin. I wonder if Ken has one of those, since he got an early 1998 Forester. Mine was purchased in August 1998, so by then I think they had made the change already.

    If it had been reset your mileage would have plummeted.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Colin,

    Are you refering to the hesitation fix on the Phase I DOHC mated to 5-speeds? I actually had that done. I think the issue was an oversensitive knock sensor.

    The only reason why I did it was that I experienced some of the hesitation after my ECU was reset while my engine was being worked on for the piston swap.

    Afterwards, I noticed that I would hit a flat spot around 2500rpm and then heard about the recall.

    Your message seems to indicate that I would have sacrificed some power -- can you elaborate?

    Ken
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    No, there were some early '98 2.5L DOHC Gunma-built models that had more aggressive fuel and ignition mapping. They also had *no* rev limiter so you'd know if you had one.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    A more agressive program!? -- Can I have my ECU re-flashed? ;-)

    Are you sure it's not just for the very early 2.5RS? I believe some of them came with WRX trannies as well. The 2.5L DOHC has been around since MY97, right?

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mine definitely has a rev limiter, so it's not one of those.

    The '96 Outback had a 2.5l DOHC engine, too, but it only made 155hp and required premium fuel. The '97 got 165hp on regular and I believe that's the Phase I we have.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Had mine reprogrammed yesterday as well as the pulsing from my rotors. I am almost convinced the car is running much smoother now. The dealer could not tell me if the memory is erased (they thought it was a very good question). As for the rotors - resurfaced! :( At 24K miles, they were within Subaru's spec for runout. When I asked what happens if they warp again in, say, 12K miles (warranty ends) they said the work is good for 1 year. We'll see. However, they do not see a lot of warped rotors so it doesn't appear to be a systematic problem. I was very pleased with the treatment and discussions I had with the mechanic. He took his time and did a nice job and took the time to speak to me about the brakes. BTW, I took it to Colonial Subaru in Danbury where I purchased the car.

    Greg
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Sorry for the no show yesterday. By the time I got back from the dealer, work was crazy. I hope everyting installed nicely.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Question to all: does anyone feel that the new throttle pedals are too stiff?

    It took a while for my wife to get used to hers, and it's definitely stiffer and not as linear as the one on my Forester. She says it's fine, but it took her a while to get used to.

    I'm curious as to what others think.

    -juice
  • kate5000kate5000 Member Posts: 1,271
    the gas pedal on my 2001 Forester is pretty linear and smooth-operating, not overly sensitive and not stiff either...

    It can be car-specific. I recall pedal on my Loyale'92 was very easy and smooth, but pedal on Loyale'93 was stiffer and less linear.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Bob mentioned his was a little like an on/off switch, i.e not as linear. But his headlights also have a very different pattern than mine, so a lot changed from 1998 to 2001.

    Maybe the throttle cable is car specific, then.

    -juice
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Anyone know what the offset is on the 15" stock Forester 15" wheel? Ditto the offset for my stock 14" steel wheels ('97 Legacy)?

    I'm looking for a set of winter wheels and the Forester wheels look good, plus they're 15" and would allow me to run the new Michelin Arctic Alpin Pilots. But I cannot find the offset anywhere and the Dealer does not know either. What say ye?

    Thanks in advance,

    Idaho Doug
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had Juice's on my dad's '97 Legacy L for a bit. All modern subie wheels will bolt up except for the SVX. As long as you are putting a larger wheel on there shouldn't be an issue. I run WRX rims on my XT6 currently :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I believe the 15" steelies are 48mm. I think the 16" alloys are 55mm.

    I bought aftermarket alloys with a 40mm offset, those actually push the tires farther away from the body for more clearance.

    My bet is they'll fit.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    I think I experienced the same on a 2001 Legacy L loaner I was driving. Relative to my Forester, the pedal did feel a lot "stiffer" as you described.

    Ken
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    but... most loaners are automatics. automatics absolutely have a stiffer throttle spring than manuals.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Man, nothing gets by you! Okay, I give up -- so why do most autos have stiffer throttle springs?

    Ken
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Juice,

    By chance do you remember where you got the info? I'm hoping to also pin down the correct offset for my '97 Legacy wheels.

    As a former vehicle designer, I could go on and on about the importance of sticking to the factory offset but I'll spare you the bandwidth. Suffice to say I'm determined to find the correct numbers from a documented source and then make a decision whether the steel Forester wheels are a good call. I'm way less concerned about whether these will physically fit (I'm sure they will) than I am about the anally retentive objective of maintaining the factory offset. If Subaru's modern wheels all have the same offset then I'm in like Flynn. But above sounds like they're different from steel to alloy, and this casts doubt on that happy scenario.

    So, looking for good source on this. Thanks in advance. In fact, if anyone has the # of a dealer in their area that's very good at tracking this stuff down, I'd appreciate that as well. My dealer is a nice and trustworthy place but a bit sleepy here in my little mountain town.

    IdahoDoug
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Doug-
    Forester's offset is +48mm
    Legacy/Outback/Impreza/Outback Sport/WRX are +55mm

    '97 Legacy = +55mm

    Found that out last year when browsing the parts catalog at the dealers.

    -Dave
  • jp4esterwrxjp4esterwrx Member Posts: 2
    It's time to put new tires on my 1999 Subaru Forester. It originally came with Yokohama tires, but I want to try something different. I live in Indiana where we have rainy springs, hot humid summers, and cold snowy winters (including ice storms). I'm interested in an "all season" road tire with very good handling characteristics on wet roads. It would be nice to also have good wear characteristics and low tread noise (ha-ha), but you can't have everything. Any suggestions or warnings?
  • kate5000kate5000 Member Posts: 1,271
    why do most autos have stiffer throttle springs?

    All my cars were AT, and all pedals felt a bit differently. The same with rentals: each seems to have its own character: some sensitive, some stiff, some linear, some "on/off"...
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Unfortunately, there really isn't such a thing as a true all-season tire. There are plenty of 3-season tires out there, but virtually none are up to true winter driving. If you do have heavy winters, nothing can beat dedicated winter tires -- the cost of the tires is probably cheaper than an accident.

    Some popular all-season tire choices (really 3-season tires) for your Forester:
    Dunlop Sport A2
    Yokohama AVID H4
    Bridgestone Dueler H/L
    Michellin Pilot XGT

    You may also want to find out if the new Geolandar 900 is available. Those are the standard tires for the 2003 Forester and are supposed to have improved characteristics over the previous Geolandars.

    The Nokian NRW is, according to Nokian, supposed to provide better winter grip than any all-season on the market. Nokian specializes in winter tires so this claim may be true. The tire is quite expensive, however.

    Ken
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Dave - thank you very much for those numbers. I cannot believe how hard they are to pin down.

    On the tires, I agree with Ken that if you want winter traction there's no substitute for winter specific tires. I don't know the other brands well, but the Michelin Pilot XGT is not an all season. The Michelin X1 is their best all season tire, and they have others that are better choices for you as well in the all season line. I'm going to violate my own 'winter tires only' rule this winter with the X1 to see if it will do the job. First time I have a problem though, will prompt me to end the experiment and get a set of either studded or studless winter specific tires. As someone pointed out, a set of good winter tires are about the same as an insurance deductible for a fender bender.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It was either Tire Rack or Discount Tire Direct. I was shopping for aftermarket rims of 7" and 7.5" widths, and we were comparing stock vs. aftermarket offsets.

    Though the 48mm measure was for the 15" steel wheels, they told me 55mm for the 16" alloys on the S model.

    -juice
  • pgh4pgh4 Member Posts: 13
    Our 2000 Outback (perfect until now) is experincing hesitation, stalling, bucking, in slow moving traffic. Yesterday, started to buck slightly at hgwy speed. Problem is sporadic but getting worse. Can make for dangerous situations.
    Dealer could not duplicate last week and no bad codes given on computer. Already tried different gas, different octane lvls etc. Read a Subie owner website yeserday and apparently I'm not the only one. Going back to dealer next week. I suggested a new fuel filter, and service mgr said nahhh...it's not that. Any thoughts or similar experiences..?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Reset the ECU. Pull the negative battery terminal (on a cool engine), wait 30 minutes, reconnect. Start it up and let it idle until warm, then drive off.

    Sounds like a text book candidate for the ECU reset.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    My throttle is a little on the stiff side. The car would jump off the line. Doesn't bother me much since I have gotten use to it.

    Tires: I just put the Sports on. Very quiet and works well with the OB suspension. Appears good in the rain. No snow yet. They are brand new so I can't give an objective opinion until next year. Yokohamas are not great in the snow in general with the exception of the Aegis LS4s which I have on my minivan and which I like a lot (not H rated though). Check out tirerack.com for information.

    Greg
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    When is the last ime you changed the air filter?

    I've had hesitation problems now and then with a cold engine. Changed the air filter this week and its been much better.

    Where I get my subie serviced never asked or told me "Looks like your air fliter needs replacing"... so I had forgoten to check/replace it the past 6 months or so.... bad boy...

    --jay
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