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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • strider98strider98 Member Posts: 89
    I think I have that on my Rex also. It's made me stall out a coupla times. I've only got 1500 miles so I'm still tryin to get used to it.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    hmm, I'm not convinced. I think the crush washers I had came in a bag labeled something like "washer, drain plug".

    -Colin
  • flasksflasks Member Posts: 14
    Locke2c...seems to me that the crush washer would only be used between the oil drain plug and the crank case and is used as a positive seal against oil leakage. Any oil filter I've ever installed (hundreds) sealed itself using a flat rubber washer built into the filter itself. This rubber washer also acts as a "lock" washer as well as an oil seal so a compression metal washer would be redundant. I'm not positive about Subaru's thinking though or whether they would supply a secondary washer for whatever but I'd be hesitant to put as much pressure (tightening) as would be required while installing any oil filter. Remember, oil filters go on 1 full turn after rubber makes contact and then 1/2 turn COUNTER clockwise, don't forget to wet the new filter rubber ring with clean oil before installing.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Coolant expands when heated. Overfilling the coolant tank may cause it overflow during this expansion. This is easy to see if you know the coolant level when cold, pop the hood and check it when it's hot. If I remember, it expands more than you'd expect.

    I remember the post about the crush washer and I think the parts guy is wrong. The way filters are designed, dirty oil goes into the outer "can" passes thru the filter and clean oil exits thru the center pipe to the engine. The washer would have no effect on sealing.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My Forester's is the same way, but somehow the throttle seems smoother. Maybe it's broken in?

    Our Legacy's throttle seems a little stiff. I greased it up, but I've also adjusted by pressing down, sort of, on the throttle at first.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I'm not so sure if the parts guy is right either. The OE oil filter has a rubber gasket that creates a seal with the area around the thread. Just because he sells parts doesn't mean he's actually done an oil change on a Subie!

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We were discussing the cooling system in some of the H6 topics, if you want to check that out.

    I don't think the Purolator oil filter has a crush washer. I'm pretty sure it's a rubber washer.

    I once left the old rubber gasket on our 626 - and with two it didn't seal correctly, so it leaked and I had a mess on my hands.

    -juice
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    I found the valve you were talking about, Doug, despite the Subie guy saying that it is no longer on 2000 and newer Legacys. Only one problem: can't get it open...there must be some kind of special tool...tried to gently nuge it open with a screwdriver in one of the slots and some hammer tapping, but it wouldn't budge. Probably overtorqued like most things Subaru! Is there a picture or instructions on how to open it in your manual? I took a phot of it, but have to finish the roll. Juice, it is located right in front of the radiator cap and in fact is part of the plastic mouth that the cap screws onto.
    To be continued...........
  • crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    I've been changing oil since I was 15, I'm now 51 & have never seen or heard of such a beast. As has been said earlier, the rubber ring seals the filter. Look at a filter before it is put on & after it comes off. It will look the same, no crushing. As far as what the parts guy says, well they are good people to be friends with, but if you want to know what's up with scooby's ask the mechanics.
  • jms338jms338 Member Posts: 6
    Test drove a Forester today. Not bad, but have one concern. The brake pedel was extremely spongy. I could press it all the way to the floor without it strongly applying the brakes and there was a loud noise like the sound of air through an air pump. Is this a trait of all Foresters and is there any way to reduce/eliminate it?

    Thanks in advance.
  • jms338jms338 Member Posts: 6
    Test drove a Forester today. Not bad, but have one concern. The brake pedel was extremely spongy. I could press it all the way to the floor without it strongly applying the brakes and there was a loud noise like the sound of air through an air pump. Is this a trait of all Foresters and is there any way to reduce/eliminate it?

    Thanks in advance.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Did you drive a new or used Forester? Some of the earlier models did have a softer brake pedal feel due to the dual stage brake booster, but the feel has nothing to do with actual braking performance.

    The fact that you could apply the brakes all the way to the floor without much braking action and the sound of the pump does not sound right. It could be simply a brake fluid issue.

    Ken
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I finally got a chance to look at the MY 2000 Legacy/Outback service manuals.

    Coolant - No mention of bleeding the system after changing coolant. Only the burping process after getting the engine hot and allowing it to cool again. (The usual warning of never removing the radiator cap until the top of the radiator is cool enough to touch.)

    Moonroof - Again, no mention of sun shade adjustment . However, I would expect a tab or something that would draw the sun shade back when the moonroof is opened. Otherwise, couldn't someone open the moonroof leaving the shade closed, forget, exit and lock the car thinking that all is secure?
    It seems illogical not to have it automatically open along with the glass.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Just to clarify, the oil filters from the Sube dealer have a traditional O-ring around their outside perimeter - slightly less than the diameter of the entire filter, or about 3 inches in diameter. Quite normal. The crush washer is quite small, and fits around the hole in the center with the threads that hold the filter on. Some above seem to have gotten the impression the filter had a crush washer instead of this O-ring. This is not the case. The O-ring is what keeps the filter from leaking to the outside just as in any filter. Sorry for the confusion.

    You guys also made me waste a recently installed filter - I pulled one off the car today to look things over. I have spare filters to look at in the garage, but what I needed to see was the surfaces the crush washer seals against on the block. The crush washer seems to have no function whatsoever. I'd originally surmised it was there to prevent mixing of filtered and unfiltered oil by preventing a small amount of oil from bypassing the filter. I no longer believe this to be the case. I cannot see where the crush washer seals anything off as it only prevents oil from getting to the threads - a virtual dead end and not a chance for oil to bypass anything. So, I'll be asking about this at the dealer next time I'm in.

    There is also a crush washer for the drain plug, but from memory it is not the same size as the one I got with each filter purportedly for the filter itself. This fit on the filter was demonstrated for me on 2 occasions to be sure I had it right. Interesting. I'll update as I learn more about it from the dealer.

    On the radiator air bleed valve - a stuck one is probably not good news. It is the only way to properly remove air from a system designed with this vent. Trapped air allows the coolant to deteriorate and prevents the system from holding the pressure it should - which can allow a boilover that an airfree system would not have. I suggest you take it to whomever last serviced the cooling system and ask them to loosen if for you. If you choose not to do this, consider ordering a new valve as the screw part (valve) comes all the way out and you could tear the crap out of it removing it and replace it with a fresh one. The dealer may have a special tool that will allow maximum force to be exerted on it, which a large Phillips may not allow if someone's overtightened it. You'd think people would realize it was plastic and there's no reason to jam it on, but.....

    IdahoDoug
  • willygcwillygc Member Posts: 1
    Shortly after my 30,000 mile tune-up by the dealer I noticed that when down shifting from 2nd to first at very low speeds I sometimes get a little grunge. I doesn't always happen, but usually it does. I was just starting to probe when it happens whne I read the new car and driver and they described it exactly. I'm not sure I like the answer they received. has anyone else seen this on their car. Not many of us have over 30,000 miles yet. I wan tto find out before I get out of the warranty safe zone.
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    Doug: Methinks there's much misunderstanding here.. the crush washer is for the drain plug, NOT the filter! I've never ever needed a crush washer for the filter... the rubber gasket is more than sufficient to seal up the filter. Any oil filter that I've ever purchased for any vehicle has had a rubber gasket seal that mates up to the filter's flat mounting surface. It may be coincidence that the crush washer fits over the threaded post that the oil filter mounts up to, but the crush washer is specifically intended for the drain plug. A crush washer on the filter post is a waste of a crush washer.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm sure the rubber seal is plenty - I only hand tighten mine anyway.

    The brakes do have a dual stage booster - this allows for smoother stops and brakes that don't feel "touchy". Ever rented a Cavalier?

    But what you describe is a symptom of a problem of some type.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The braking you descrive does not sound normal to me. We have a '98 and an '02 and neither sounds like that.

    There is a dual stage booster, for smoother stops. The 2nd one kicks in in emergency situations for quick stops. Braking distances are very competitive if you check the different magazines. The dual-stage booster allows them not to feel "touchy".

    First gear? I dunno, I wouldn't engage it unless I came to a complete stop.

    Tryin' to exit a slow corner with some power-on oversteer? ;-)

    -juice
  • beachfishbeachfish Member Posts: 97
    Yup. Got 3 at the office assigned from the 'motor pool'. I drive my car if and when I travel and just don't get reimbursed. The brakes on the Cadavers are the best thing about them. Really. I also have 2 rich aunts who have been driving them for years. Go figure. You thought that I was cheap.

    The Subaru pedal feel has always been a little soft for me, but it works just fine.

    Whatever happened to full-power brakes? Do they still make them? You know, tap one toe on the pedal and the wheels lock.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    As they say, YMMV.

    I hate the touchy brakes on the Cavaliers I've rented (a convertible a couple of years ago, and a hard top a few years before that). Maybe they've changed, but you so much as brush up against the pedal and it brakes abruptly. They're like on or off, nothing between.

    Hard to stop smoothly, IMO. When my cousin drove I was feeling pretty car sick.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    SS lines give you a nice firm pedal, wellworth the ~$100 for em.

    -mike
  • aa717driveraa717driver Member Posts: 41
    I've never had a car that smoothly downshifted from 2nd to 1st. There always seemed to be quite a bit of notchiness and balking.TC
  • joseph50joseph50 Member Posts: 235
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Use 'em - for the oil pan drain plug, as well as the tranny/diffy drain plug.

    -juice
  • joseph50joseph50 Member Posts: 235
    Use 'em - for the oil pan drain plug, as well as the tranny/diffy drain plug.

    -juice

    But not on the filter? That is what I was given to understand on this board, and why I bought them and instructed my mechanic (much cheaper than dealer) to use them.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    With the seasons changing, it's time to check your tire pressure again!

    I checked mine this morning and I was 2psi low on all four tires from my normal settings.

    Ken
  • strider98strider98 Member Posts: 89
    I can't seem to get from second to first except at a complete standstill. Otherwise it'll just stay stuck in neutral at the first gear gate.
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    We don need no steenken seasons! Thees ees Floreeeda! The weather report...chile today and hot tamale!
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Isn't that a South of the Border Billboard. :-)

    -Dennis
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    Don't know...
    Season 1: Barely livable and wet
    Season 2: Hot and wet
    Season 3: Hotter and wet
    Season 4: Hottest and wet

    I guess we do have 4 seasons :-)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No crush washer on any oil filter I've ever used.

    Ken - good idea. Especially with the drops in temp, it's fall!

    -juice
  • potenzauspotenzaus Member Posts: 29
    I have just replaced all my oem tires (RE92) with Yokohama Avid V4 225/50/16 on stock wheels (16/6.5) about 3 weeks ago.
    When I drive at freeway speed the car tends to move left and right. Theres' no vibration on the steering wheel (so I guess the tires were balance) but it feels loose. I talked to Big O who installed this $630 tires (for that price I was expecting the car would ride like it's on rails) and they said since I came from H rated tires there would be a different feel with these V rated tires and I should wait till I get used to them. But it's been 3 weeks now and still fell this wandering movement of the car on the freeway, although it's not very bad but I can say the RE92 is a lot better.
    They've checked the pressure and they are all even.
    Any advise that you can share with me?

    Thank you in advance.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    225s on 6.5" rims is pushing it a bit Yokohama recommends 6-8" rims so you are on the bottom of that window. Not sure why they would move left and right though.

    -mike
  • ffsteveffsteve Member Posts: 243
    Potenzaus, where are you? The freeway pavement is grooved in California (maybe elsewhere). I had that experience with a brand new set of Michelins (my first) a few years ago. Their tread tended to follow the grooving in the pavement on the freeway more than the older, OE, tires. After a few months, I guess the corners got knocked off the tread and the wandering ceased.

    Steve
  • ffsteveffsteve Member Posts: 243
    Guess I should add that the next set of tires (another new set of the same Michelins) on the same car did exactly the same thing, for about the same length of time!

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I take it that's a Legacy GT we're talking about?

    If so, that's a side effect of having 20mm wider tread - they tend to follow pavement irregularities. They'll also be less aerodynamic (simply because they displaced more air) and perhaps noisier.

    But the benefit should be superior lateral grip.

    I kind of doubt that can be "fixed", though maybe it'll lessen once the tires wear a bit.

    -juice
  • potenzauspotenzaus Member Posts: 29
    Yes I'm in the bay area. and I have a 00 Legacy GT. Some part of the 880 freeway here were grooved but nowadays mostly not(newly asphalted). I guess you're right because the tires are much wider than the wheels they tend to flex more. They're good though in cornering. I think I shouldn't have listened to the sales guy at Big O who talked me into getting the 225 instead of the 205.

    Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It's funny but the flex actually gives you less control in corners. But hey just burn em up fast and then you don't have to worry!

    -mike
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    My '98 OB Limited 5-speed had the rear main seal spring a leak at around 30K miles. They ended up replacing the flywheel, clutch disk and plate. When they put it back together the gearbox locked up in 3rd gear. They couldn't figure out the problem. After diddling around I mentioned that they could save a bundle of money by just replacing the gearbox with a new one - which was done. Finally had to go back after about 9 months to have a recycled piece of shift linkage replaced that was rattling at freezing temps.

    BTW, installed a K&N air filter last month. Seems to have a little more punch. But my gas mileage is only 20-21 MPG with the 10% ethenol for winter. Have to remove the negative battery cable for 30 min. See if that will improve the gas mileage after the first tank-full.

    Now if it would only snow - sigh.

    Toboggan
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    can often produce wandering or a vague on-center feel. The contact patch size, shape and orientation on the stock tire is one thing, but now you've changed it in the following ways:

    The contact patch is shorter and wider, which creates less directional stability.
    The edges of the contact patch are farther from the center, which means small inputs at these edges have a longer "lever" to upset the car's direction.

    In addition, you should adjust the tire's pressure downward from the stock pressures on the door by a few psi. This simply accounts for the larger tire and may help your symptoms significantly. I'd also put the tire shop on notice that you're not happy and would like to know if they'll trade you down to the correct size. A good shop would do this and Big O is a national chain.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My A/C still works fine too, '98 with 53k miles. I cannot keep it on fan setting 4, else I'll end up like Frosty. I usually use 1, on a really hot day 2-3.

    -juice
  • stoner420stoner420 Member Posts: 165
    All manuals are relatively harder to shift to 1st while in motion (some more than others). I find the WRX is easier to put into 1st while moving than my Honda Accord was (I can typically shift into 1st easily under 10mph while braking). The crunching is probably due to worn synchros (shifting down to 1st while in motion is pretty hard on them). If you double-clutch it, you can shift down to 1st with much less stress on the synchros (even at around 25mph, it goes right in -- I've done so on several occasions without any difficulty, though only to see if I could not really during normal driving)
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    ateixeira Sep 24, 2002 3:23pm

    I thought the Legacy GT rides on 215s?

    -Dave
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Went to the dealer today to pick up what I thought would be a set of 4 Outback cargo area hooks. Instead they'd gotten me a single pair of the little part that's welded onto the floorpan in the same area. Ah well, back to the drawing board - guess I'm back to looking for a 95 up Outback in a salvage yard - each hook comes off with a single bolt.

    While there, the normal parts guy was on vacation - the one that carefully showed me how the crush washer fits on the filter? The other guy was also nowhere in sight. So I asked the service guy temporarily running the counter about the crush washers for the oil filters. Blank look, followed by a measured "That's for the oil pan bolt". "Are you certain, because I was told by someone else here that they go around the threaded hole - he even showed me how they fit on the filter". "Nope, I do about 10 oil changes a day here and there is absolutely no crush washer needed on the factory filter."

    So. For those of you I unwittingly passed this information on to, please accept my apology. The crush washer goes on the drain plug as many have surmised. You can now all forget the crush washer incident ever happened, and I'll pretend I don't have one out in my garage. On my Legacy oil filter this very moment..... Must resist changing fresh synthetic oil at 800 miles.....I'm not really OCD......must resist..........heh

    IdahoDoug
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Doug, it's not going to hurt anything unless you tried tightening the filter down enough to actually crush the washer. If you did, then yeah your next change is going to be interesting. Nothing I haven't done before-- I've had to put a screwdriver through a filter a few times, once I cut the whole thing away with tin snips and tapped the filter boss itself. That one was a 2 day oil change... ;-)

    -Colin
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    Maybe if you inflate the larger tires to the max recommended air preassure by the tire manufacturer, will stiffens the sidewall up and take some of the side grooves off the pavement.
    Not sure if that works but I noticed better handling with the Potenzas at 35 psi than at 32 psi.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Try the double-clutching suggestion. Blip the throttle with the clutch released to match revs, get that flywheel spinning to match the engine, then it might let you pick 1st.

    But unless you are perfect you will wear down the synchro.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No - I think they are 205/55R16, just like the WRX. The Forester uses 215s, though.

    So for a GT, 225/50 is a plus zero, but the diameter is the exact same, coincidentally.

    Don't overtighten the filter or you'll have an experience like Colin described. Don't ask how I know!

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Yeah, don't ever change your oil when you're angry about something. :-)

    Ken
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I generally keep my oil filters on the loose side, and haven't had to use a filter wrench for the last 5 years or so since I started doing this. I go only a half turn from contact and haven't ever had a leak. But it's pure pleasure to simply reach in there and pull a filter off in 10 seconds..

    On the tire suggestion to increase pressure until some of the tire is no longer touching - this would not be advisable. Excess center wear, significant loss of traction, stress on the suspension and passengers from the hard ride, etc. Stick in the range of the mfrs suggested pressures, though 5psi over is certainly within the range if ya gotta have that precise turn in and don't mind the ride/wear.

    IdahoDoug
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