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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I also answered Ray, as he posted the question on several of the subi boards. So you have tried it - interesting.... Please keep us updated...

    The 'circuit' under the tape is known as a voltage divider. Using two resistors, some of the voltage output from the piezoelectric pickup is shunted to ground, reducing the signal that the ECU sees. By varying the ratio of the resistor values, you could tailor the reduction to anything you want (from 0% to 100%). Substitute a potentiometer (variable resistor), and you could adjust to your hearts content!

    Does the 'kit' still require that you splice in the two leads? I am not crazy about such 'permanent' mods. If I were doing it, I would spring for some proper wiring harness connectors and make it a plug-in affair.

    Steve
  • georgeinmdgeorgeinmd Member Posts: 27
    I've already installed a potentiometer and am trying to "dial away" the minor detonation I'm hearing. Yes, you have to splice the leads, but by using wire nuts (the cone shaped, screw-on plastic connectors) its relatively easy to uninstall/modify. I just recalled another reference to this problem: http://www.toad.net/~rrubel/bulletin.html#hesitation , which I also mentioned in my post #910. -- George
  • eps105eps105 Member Posts: 216
    I am very interested to hear more feedback from people who have tried this mod. I have a 2003 Forester XS Prem and prior to that I had a 99 Forester L, both of which have exhibited the same problem. Since it occurred on both Subies and others have discussed this, I have long since passed this off as a quirk, not a defect, in Subarus engines.

    Nevertheless, the quirk is annoying! It seems all too often that I am feathering the gas to pull slowly out of a parking space, and the engine hesitates, has almost no power, and sounds almost like it is going to stall. So I keep slowly pressing the pedal further, until it finally lunges with power. The power delivery when it lunges seems rough and uneven, but gets better within a few seconds.

    If this is in fact what others experience, and this fix does supposedly work, I would gladly pay $47 for it!

    Any additional feedback is greatly appreciated.

    Elliot
  • andmoonandmoon Member Posts: 320
    I thought trying wouldn't hurt so I installed extra ground wires and it did get rid of a very slight hesitation around 2700rpms.
  • georgeinmdgeorgeinmd Member Posts: 27
    that doesn't sound like the same thing; I had problems at highway speeds -- the check engine light came on, and the engine hesitated sporadically while the light was on -- then the light would go off for a while and all was fine, and so on. For the record, the MAF was replaced under recall while this was occurring, to no effect. This MAY be a problem on manual shift cars only; I'm not sure the knock sensor is even installed on automatics. (Anyone?) If you go this route, read carefully all the disclaimers.

    George
  • gmginsfogmginsfo Member Posts: 116
    I've noticed that my '03 XS Premi AT knocks a bit when going up hills. Not a lot, but enough to notice. I use the CA version of 87 octane from ARCO, Mobil or other national brands, so I don't understand the problem. I'm just about to turn 4K. Any thoughts???
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If it's not persistent, the knock sensor is probably working, i.e. it's dialing back your timing to prevent persistent pinging.

    It may be OK, it means your ECU is eeking every last bit of power from the engine. If timing were set more conservatively, you'd be giving up some low end torque.

    Ah, the things you learn when you own a Miata with manually adjustable timing! :-)

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    In a previous thread, Graham described the automatic self leveling suspension on the Aussi Outback. IIRC, he said that it was an internal oil reservoir that 'pumped up' after a few compressions (a passive arrangement), rather than an active airpump type rear shock/strut.

    Anyone know more about how this works, and if these are available aftermarket?

    Steve
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Are you sure it's not some light pinging? Knock is a lot more to be concerned about.

    Try some higher octane fuel to see if it clears it up. Even though our engines are designed to run on 87, there may be some outliers that will run better on higher octane fuel.

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    but the milano i'm getting has these as well.

    -mike
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    is exactly what I am experiencing. As soon as the engine comes up to temp, I have no further problems. I try to ignore it & feather the gas to get around it, but it is annoying, and seems to be on the increase.

    The odd thing is that I would not expect a cool engine to be suffering from pre-ignition (ping / light knock). Fuel instability usually only comes into play on hot engines, so I wonder what the knock sensor is really hearing when it fiddles with the timing?

    Steve
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Me too! I've had it from day one in my 2001 OB. I've noticed a fuel treatment sometimes helps. Its so unpredicatable for me. Only happens from a dead stop mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes when warm.

    --Jay
  • doctoro1doctoro1 Member Posts: 9
    I love the car but as all mechanical machines and devices with moving parts are concerned, I have some minor flaws that I am curious about.
    Recently I had a set of front brake pads installed and the mechanic says that in city traffic it is not unusual for this to take place after 20,000 miles, but he also told me that the Subie 2002 WRX wagon doesn't really need any upgrade to the factory braking system. I had suggested Brembo 4 pot system like the one they have on the STI high performance car. Does the quality of the brake pad help with the duration between service or just stopping power? I drive the car somewhat aggressively but not crazy. I like to test it's sportiness every once and awhile, and also commute to work about 50 miles a day 25 miles each way.

    BTW, my Honda Accord had horrible braking issues, and after 150,000 miles I was sinking more money than a new car payment would amount to each month. I think Toyota and Subaru are much more mechanic friendly than Honda. I also had electrical problems in the Honda. Well thats all for now I love my WRX!
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Hey all,

    I've been having some problems with my 2000 OB breather coming loose and causing noise. I took it to the dealer last and they tightened it down, but it's come loose again and I'd rather do it myself than pay them again. Does anybody know where the breather is, or how I might do it?
    Thanks
    Eric
  • stoner420stoner420 Member Posts: 165
    I have 22500 miles on my stock brake pads (02 WRX), and still going strong. I brake fairly hard when needed too, but I could certainly see them wearing faster if you have a lot of heavy traffic. Do you have an auto, that could make it worse too?

    If you do decide to go with 4-pot brakes, you'll need 17" wheels too, also Brembos are $$$..
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    Eric: are you referring to the air cleaner box or inlet?

    Regardless, if you paid for a repair yesterday and it's noisy they should fix it for free. Most repairs are warranted.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    For a year, I agree.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm still on my stock pads on my '98 Forester, and they've been quiet the whole time. Knock on wood.

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    44k on original pads and still performing just fine. 01 Legacy GT 5MT.

    bit
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    I don't know. I got it repaired at the end of this past july (30th). I called the dealer and they're unclear as to whether they'll charge me for it or not. They just tell me to bring it in--which is for me a bit of a chore. It's about an hour drive to the dealer, so if its something simple I'd rather do it myself.
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    Eric - By any chance, did you go to one of those 10-min oil change places recently?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I'm part way through the 30K service on my LL Bean (and only now remembered that I have coupons for a freebie -- doh!). What's left on the agenda is the coolant and brake fluid changes. So, I wonder if the crew can weigh in with some advice:

    What's the easiest way to drain and refill the coolant?

    What's the easiest way to drain and refill the brake fluid?

    I've done both in the past on previous cars, but know there must be some tricks that could make life easier.

    Also, anybody know what to do with the old coolant?

    Thanks,
    Craig
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Coolant - back onto your driveway, drain coolant by removing drain plug. (I'm told if you don't open the rad cap it will draw the coolant from the reservior. But I removed mine & cleaned it.) Flush rad w/ water. Refill w/ anti-freeze & water. Poured old coolant back into the container and into a 5 qt oil container.

    Be prepared to get wet. 8~)

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Recycle the old stuff, too. It has a sweet taste and can harm outdoor pets.

    -juice
  • amsbearamsbear Member Posts: 147
    For flushing/refilling the brake system I use the Motive Products "Power Bleeder".

    In addition, I used the ATE Super Blue brake fluid which is rated pretty highly. Plus it is blue which is usefull for determining when the old fluid is all pushed out of the system. They also carry ATE Gold for when you want to flush out the SuperBlue.

    Bring the old brake fluid to a service station for recycling. Its less than a quart so they shouldn't have a problem taking it for you.

    Alan

    98 OBW Ltd
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I know this was dicusssed a while ago, but it was confusing. I am looking to change all the fluids under my '01 Legacy GT 5 spd. According to the dealer they do not have and/or recommend any specific synthetic gear oil. I mentioned to him about the limited slip rear end and he said it will take the same synthetic gear oil as the gearbox/front end/transfer case.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I believe it's 75w90, but I'll let someone else chime in.

    I have Mobil 1 75w90 in my Miata's rear diffy and in the tranny too. I chose it because I can source it locally, some synthetics are mail order only and I didn't like not having access to more if I needed it.

    -juice
  • joelbjoelb Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1999 Subaru Forester S with manual transmission. After I drive for about a 1/2 hour the front wheels feel like they are locking up together. I can only notice it when I turn the wheels (i.e. pulling into a parking space).

    What does this sound like?
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    but I was wondring do I need different type of oil for the rear (limited slip) end, I know it is 75w90
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mobil 1 only sells one variety, I believe, so for me it was easy.

    I think Redline has a couple of varieties, but I'll let someone with experience with those products chime in.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That is not good. I'd stop driving it now regardless.

    My first guess is the wheel bearings are shot.

    I was thinking front differential, but it's not limited-slip, so I dunno.

    Make sure all 4 tires are the same size, and the pressures are equal. It's also possible that the center differential is seeing the front axle turn quicker or slower than the rear, and it's locking up.

    Could be other things, I'll let others chime in with possibilities.

    Seriously though, figure this out before you drive another inch.

    -juice
  • joelbjoelb Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1999 Subaru Forester S with manual transmission. After I drive for about a 1/2 hour the front wheels feel like they are locking up together. I can only notice it when I turn the wheels (i.e. pulling into a parking space).

    What does this sound like?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Either one will work, make sure it's GL5 not GL4. The LSD units in our vehicles (except the STi) is closed unit, so you don't need the friction modifiers. I just picked up a bunch of Mobil 1 for our 30K services this weekend (about 8 or 9 of them)

    -mike
  • jlemolejlemole Member Posts: 345
    I just did Mobil1 75W90 in front and rear diffy. So far so good. If you're gonna use Redline, I believe you should stay with the regular, and not the "NS" version. I used the M1 because it's readily available.

    Jon
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    56k on the original pads on my 01 Forester and still going strong. However, driving style does make a noticable difference on pad life so if you like to "test the sportiness" on a regualr basis, you can expect to replace them more often. Also, a good rule of thumb is that the more "high performance" a vehicle is, the shorter the life expectancy of brake pads and tires. Which also answers your question that quality increases stopping performance.

    -Frank P.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    recommends NS for trannys and regular for diffys. The NS doesn't have friction modifiers so there's a bit more friction to help the synchros work better.

    Jim
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Subaru recommends a pattern different from most. (Old school was farthest from master cylinder to nearest.) Subie is FR > RL> FL> RR. This concept is primary reservoir first followed by secondary reservoir.

    Someday, I'm going to build a power bleeder to make this a one person process!

    Jim
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I think I will use Mobil 75W90 since it is readily available and will look out for the GL5 rating
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think the general rule is distance from the proportion valve. So the proportion valve must be located in a different spot than the MC.

    -mike
  • dafracksdafracks Member Posts: 14
    GRRRRRRRR. I've had this car since March and absolutely love it, until Wednesday when the Check Engine light went on. BTW the car has 78,000 miles on it. I checked my manual and tightened the gas cap - the light stayed on. I drive mostly highway miles and really take good care not to drive crazy

    I went to a local independent Subaru repair shop and they got a code PO420 catalyst efficiency low bank #1 message. At that time they reset the light and recommended that I replace the catalytic converter and also the 02 sensors.

    I called the dealer where I purchased the car to ask about warranty. It covers 8 years and 80,000 miles on the catalytic converter. I drove it straight to the dealer. They said the catalytic converter tested out within normal range.

    So now I feel like I'm driving a time bomb which will of course go off at 80,001 miles. The check engine light has not returned of course.

    So - is there anyway for me to get this light to go on in the next 1500 miles or so, or does anyone know of a way to set the light on?

    Another question - has anyone experienced anything like this with their Subaru before?
  • williamskmwilliamskm Member Posts: 20
    This past week I thought the hesitation and rough idling I was experiencing had cleared up. Until today. Today was much more humid here than it has been, and when the hesitation and rough idle were at their worst, it was very humid here. Is there any connection between them and the humidity? Would a cracked spark plug wire react to humidity? It also did rain a little bit here.

    I am also doing an oil consumption test (the dealer has me checking the oil and noting where it is on the dipstick and I am to call him after 500 miles). At 350 miles the oil appeared to be halfway between full and low. What does that really represent? Is that a quart low, a 1/2 quart?
    Thanks for your help
    Kim
  • steve2003steve2003 Member Posts: 4
    Own a 2002 Legacy. When I put the A/C or heat on high (4), I hear a loud dribbling/vibrating sound. What could it be?
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Tracy- What rotten luck! Try and save a few bucks by going to an independent mechanic and it turns out in this case that you might have been better off sticking with the dealer (too bad your mechanic cleared the fault code). Even worse, I don't know of anything you can do to get the same CEL code to repeat. There is an outside chance that even if it doesn't repeat within the warranty period, Subaru will still cover it because it was a known issue prior to the warranty expiring. But again, you'd have a stronger case if the dealer had read the code. Right now I think you should just hope for the best. Hopefully the engine will either throw the code again soon or even better, it was just a spurious code and there really isn't anything wrong with the catalytic converter. In any case, keep the receipt from your mechanic showing the code and mileage as well as the record from the dealership showing that you asked them to check for that specific error code.

    -Frank P.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Surface leakage of high voltage wiring will increase with dampness. Oil and road grime on the outer surfaces will become a conductive path when they absorb moisture. So yes, an insulation crack will become an alternate electrical path on damp days, robbing your plugs of the voltage they need to fire efficiently.

    Steve
  • john284john284 Member Posts: 71
    My Sub 01 has the same problem, on Sat morning, after sitting in the stormy weather overnight, my forester was really hesitating and rough idling, it even flashed its chech engine light on a couple of times, but stopped before I starts calling the tow truck, there is something wrong with the subaru enigine transmission coupling that makes it prone to damp and cold temperature, it becomes really hazardous when you start driving the car in the morning rush, and the car stalls on its way to merge with the traffic, either on local road or highway. Subaru should take note, and be proactive on this before it turns into a much bigger issue

    -Water
  • dafracksdafracks Member Posts: 14
    Hi Frank,

    Yeah I thought I would have better luck if I went to the independent mechanic. He was recommended by a good friend of mine - oh well. It's always something.

    That is something I was wondering - are spurious codes possible?

    I also wonder if the independent mechanic reported the costliest code he could find in order to make some money.

    I will try to get the dealer to pay for it, since I reported the code once already, even if it is after 80,000 miles
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Kim: turn the key just enough to let the fuel pump prime the fuel pressure. You'll hear a "whir". That might help with the hesitation problem.

    Also, maybe let it warm up before you put too much load on the engine on those cold/wet days.

    Steve: maybe some leaves in the HVAC? A loose bracket?

    -juice
  • joybelljoybell Member Posts: 275
    Just an update. I still haven't taken my Forester back to the dealer with this problem. But I found that if the Forester has a good run the day before it starts and idles fine. If I have used it for a few short hops here and there, then I have the stalling and idle problem. Sometimes leaving the clutch depressed a little longer helps. The ignition startup delay doesn't appear to help all the time.
  • subkidsubkid Member Posts: 94
    Any chances that lights were left "on", and that you started a car with the lights "on". I don't mean DRLs, but a low beam?

    K
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    I never turn my lights off and it hasn't had any adverse effects on the engine starting.

    -Frank P.
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