Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

daniell · August 2003

The good news first: the dealer replaced all 4 rotors for free, and braking is very smooth now. It took them almost 4 hours today, plus 3 hours last week, but they got it right. They said that the pads themselves were in very good shape @ 22k miles, so they guessed that the rotors must have been defective.
Transmission hesitation... after the engine stalled 8 days ago, transmission hesitated a lot less. Dealer made a note in the car's records, so I guess I'll leave it here for now.

jfl · August 2003

mike,

It took me that long to get the rear diffy fill and drain plugs removed the first time! Took all the tricks I knew from shims to remove play on the 1/2" drive socket, to using a jack to get leverage on the breaker bar. (I know, I know...amateurs!)

Everything else was easy after that...

Jim

paisan · August 2003

Worst case we break out the impact gun to take off the plugs

-mike

jfl · August 2003

mike,

Are you working nights or something? It's 11pm and I'm in Calif!

BTW nice pix.

Jim

fibber2 · August 2003

Last week I added a retractor reel air hose to my garage. It is mounted centrally on a wall above the air compressor. Instant air, anywhere you need it. Very cool...

Steve

paisan · August 2003

Is my work schedule currently, although it changes at the bosses whims

-mike

ateixeira · August 2003

I don't have a 1/2" drive anything. I'll have to buy or borrow one when I do my 60k.

Steve: tools, yummy.

Reminds me of my brother-in-law, the one that just visited us. He has all kinds of air tools at home, even torque sticks. Better yet, he teaches Industrial Arts, so he can always go to school and use even better tools there. There ain't much he can't do!

-juice

fibber2 · August 2003

This morning I was talking to a co-worker about possibly taking an adult ed class on welding. I have a 'play' torch set (MAPP & oxygen), but am thinking more and more about an electric unit. I am in the process of modifying an accessory for my trailer, and need the services of a few welds. I used to have a nearby shop that would do little stuff for $5 a visit, but nobody around here will take walk-in work anymore.

Steve

originalbitman · August 2003

I got rid of my mig. Very nice welder but unless you are welding regularly it gets frustrating. Especially getting the first bead started. I think it really ends up being a intuitive thing... being able to get the tip and more importantly the wire at the precise point you want to start a bead. That is unless you can afford one of those helmets that have the glass that goes from light to dark at the sign of the first spark.

bit

kcreature · August 2003

...costs $900!!! Is this really the norm? Please say it isn't so!

ateixeira · August 2003

That is high. I saw it for just under $680 in the high-priced DC area, and that was before any coupons or discounts, which aren't hard to come by.

They may be doing more than the required services, you might want to ask them about that.

-juice

lucien2 · August 2003

So remember 2 months ago when the temp. guage spiked and I was worried about my gaskets? Everyone said "change the thermostat first" so I did. It was all fine, but then today she overheated again. I know not what is going on at this point. Is there a way to test the gasket (Phase I failures are usually internal, so little or no external leaking). A compression test?

ateixeira · August 2003

Dang. Water pump, I bet.

-juice

ken_from_nj · August 2003

for the record i have absolutely no problems to report on my 03 forester xs premium which just past 10k miles. 1 oil changes & 1 tire rotation into it's life & all is utterly fanatastic. wait a minute - i do have a problem now that i think about it. i don't get to drive it enough as it is my wife's car.

other than that - all is completely satisfactory with this 1st time sube owner. rgds, ken

joybell · August 2003

which is that it sometimes stalls on startup, or idles very roughly. I did try the delayed start (turn key to start electrical, wait 5-10 secs and then start), and it does works sometimes but not always. PLUS it is annoying to have to do this. I will take it in to the dealer when I have a day to spare (which I hope is sometime in Sept).

c_hunter · August 2003

My dad (in Connecticut) was selling his arc welder a few weeks back at a yard sale. Don't know if he still has it or not, but I can ask if you're interested. I think it is pretty new. He took a course from a local tech school and got pretty handy with the welder. Now that my brother and I are out of state, nothing breaks anymore so he probably doesn't need it!

Craig

paisan · August 2003

I'd love a welder! Find out the details of it.

-mike

c_hunter · August 2003

Well, he sold it for $125, which would have been a steal (it was a real good unit). But, my dad said that Northern Hydraulics has decent welders for $150-200, so that might be worth a check. We have a NH store down by me, and I may go by to check things out (I like to "browse" through there every couple of months).

Craig

cptplt · August 2003

compressor replaced and it blows under 50 deg all the time now! Colder than the WRX now!
For those in the Chicago area, avoid Schaumburg Subaru like the plague (till they get some techs older than teenagers!) and go to Gary Lang (or Roto)!
Thanks to everyone who helped out earlier and Kudos to SOAs customer service people.

fibber2 · August 2003

I need some education first before I open the wallet. MIG / TIG / wire feed / stick / spot / amperage all over the scale. Prices from $150 - $1500...

Steve

bluesubie · August 2003

What about getting your engine oil and/or coolant analyzed? I just got my first oil analysis and was pretty impressed by it.

It showed that dirt was getting past my air filter and into my engine. They were right. My Amsoil air filter was covered in crud.

-Dennis

ateixeira · August 2003

Did you reset the ECU? May be worth a try.

Another thought - could there be condensation in the gas tank? You might try a bottle of DryGas, it worked for Kate.

-juice

ateixeira · August 2003

cptplt: gotta love a happy ending. And a cold one!

-juice

fibber2 · August 2003

Cold = Gooood
Warm = Baaaad

Glad we could help....

Steve

jerrys2 · August 2003

Original sets replaced @51K. Currently @ 67K and tech advised we will need new pads in another 1-3K.

Should this be?

joybell · August 2003

..I'm going to let the dealer worry about it. I don't want to mess with anything. I posted here because I wondered if anyone else had this problem with their new Forester. It's now almost 2 months old but only has approx 450 miles on it. Still not broken in!

paisan · August 2003

Depending on what pads you replaced the OEM ones with.

-mike

rsholland · August 2003

Geeze... I do that in a few days! Joybell, you spend too much time bailing hay. Get out and drive that thing!

Bob

joybell · August 2003

believe me I drive it any chance I get! But for the "dirty work" I still use the old Loyale wagon. That is, until this coming Saturday. I donated it to the Kidney Foundation and they are sending a "recyler" to pick it up. It will be a sad day for me. After that, the Forester is going to have to start earning its keep, like everything else on the farm.

jerrys2 · August 2003

Done by non Subaru facility. Also break dust has been unusually heavy...any suggestions for replacement pads?

Thanks

Jerry

3subfam1 · August 2003

Had check engine light come on, first steady (1+ days), and then flashing when going up a hill. Had it towed to dealer. (2000 GT sedan - 53K)

They first replaced the plugs and coil assembly. When I called back the first day, they said it still wasn't working right - it was now backfiring.

Ended up also replacing the fuel injector and ignition wire.

Is 6 hours labor reasonable for that work?

I'm asking this because the dealer (Toyota/Subaru) lost their key Subaru tech. a few months ago (he moved away). I don't mind paying for the actual labor (including diagnosis), but I'm leery about paying for learning time.

Jim

forestergump · August 2003

I believe that under union regulations, the dealer will only charge you what their guide states is the required/negotiated number of hours for specific services. I could be wrong though.

lucien2 · August 2003

*whispers* psst! That's "brake," not "break" *sneaks away*

hypov · August 2003

I believe cost of labor time is computed against a set of time it will take to perform a certain task, i.e. Oil Change = 0.20hr. Your car may have spent 6hrs with the tech, but if the given time to accomplish the tusk [plug, coil, fuel injector, and ignition wire] totals to 3hrs, then labor cost shall be 3hrs.

-Dave

ateixeira · August 2003

Where's Mike Smith to correct our grammer. Grammur. Grammar? ;-)

-juice

earthwoman · August 2003

I took Subie in for a tire rotate yesterday at the local Les Schwab. Yes, I am obsessive but sheesh! I asked for 32 psi all around and lug nut torque set to 70. I even asked the mechanic (who looked 17) if he set them at 32 after he handed me the keys. He said yes. I checked them this morning. Front two were at 36.5 and 38, back two both near 32. I had brought the rear tires up to 36psi when I had a heavy load last weekend for camping hence the front tires being high after rotating them from the back.

If he lied about the psi, I don't trust the torque settings either. Why should I? It bugs that they do rotations for free. I'd rather they charged me $10.00 and did a legitimately good job like checking for correct air pressures and torque.

I have a new digital air pressure gauge but no torque wrench. I looked on Sears.Com Craftsmans and they had about 30 or so up to $200.00. I have no idea what to get but I'd like to have one. I do have an assortment of sockets but don't know if they are the correct size nor how they adapt to a torque wrench.

Care to educate a car maintenance novice? Thanks guys!

Rebecca

P.S. I found this page which I found interesting. Even howstuffworks.com doesn't have torque wrenches in its library.

http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec2000/975805815.Eg.r.html

stever · August 2003

Tell the manager. I had a flat fixed free at an older Schwab outlet a few hours north of here a few weeks ago, and was able to watch and chat with the tech. He hand started the nuts, used an air wrench, and then finished tightening them with a torque wrench. Pressure was right on too.

Sounds like your tech hasn't got with the program.

Steve, Host

once_for_all · August 2003

came on yesterday on my '03 XS Forester. I checked the gas cap, it was tight, I spun it in and clicked it again. Light still on, manual says it is some type of emissions problem and might go away after a few "drives". Still drives great, no hesitation, power loss, roughness, etc. Only the light stays on...

Do I bug the dealer? If so, do I do it right away or give it a few days?

John

ateixeira · August 2003

Nah, Rebecca, they'd charge you $10 and still cut corners.

If you already have sockets, just put them on your wheel lugs to see what size fits. For cars, it's usually anywhere from 19mm to 22mm.

Then go buy a torque wrench that fits that socket (or get an adaptor so it fits).

If you don't have a ratchet/socket set, then you can start from scratch.

-juice

jlemole · August 2003

Why would you be worried about "bugging" the dealer? If the light comes on, it's an indication that something may be wrong with the car. It's under warranty and any reputable dealer should not be bothered by your having it checked out. And, if it turns out to be something, you'll want a service history on it.

Jon

ateixeira · August 2003

Access is pretty tough for the boxer, it's best to remove part of the intake and the windshield washer reservoir just to change the plugs.

I'll do that at 60k, when I need to change the air filter again anyways.

Take it in, John. If your O2 sensor fails later on, you have records that it might have been malfunctioning earlier. Mazda charged us $220 (!) just for parts to change ours on our 626.

-juice

kens · August 2003

Rebecca,

Good for you for keeping up on details like that!

You can find torque wrenches for a lot less money here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=- 239

Typically, tools like that come in 1/2" or 3/8" drives. I'd even say that typical socket sets are more popular in 3/8" drive.

You can either:
- Figure out the drive size of your existing socket and match the torque wrench, or
- Buy a torque wrench and buy the socket that matches the wrench and the lug nuts

Most auto shops will sell individual sockets for a couple of bucks each.

Ken

stoner420 · August 2003

I've got a Craftsman $20 special ... not a ratchet type, it just has a bar that deflects and points to the torque that you are applying at any given moment. Typically I will use my ratchet to tighten most of the way, then use the torque wrench to finish off. Anyone used one of these? Are they terribly inaccurate?

paisan · August 2003

I've been actually torquing mine to about 85lbs since a few times when I did it to the presecribed amount, they came loose a few days later. I've found temperature differences make a big difference with the chrome lugs on the steel wheel studs.

-mike

earthwoman · August 2003

Thank you guys. Sounds like I need to figure the socket that fits my lug nuts, take it and my current adapters to the store. I have a couple adapters and I don't have the right size they aren't much cost to buy.

If I am understanding correctly the 1/2" or 3/8" refers to the square part that sticks out the side of the end of the wrench handle and holds the socket on. So my socket would either fit the torque wrench as is or I need an adapter if it is the opposite size.

Thank you again!

Steve: I called Les Schwab's and told them I was disappointed. The manager was friendly and apologized but also mentioned they replace their gauges weekly and that maybe mine is off. But if mine is off wouldn't it be off the same on all wheels? Mine is anly a couple of weeks old.

Juice: Yeah, you are probably right about them still not doing the job right even if they charged.

Ken: I have picked up on a lot about the details reading here. I would like to do more maintenance but I cannot imagine getting under my car. Scares me. I am afraid I will cause more harm than good. I'll do other stuff though. I installed my own speakers and stereo!

Rebecca

locke2c · August 2003

That's a lame excuse the mgr gave you, Rebecca. An insult to your intelligence IMO.

Personally, I'd find another servicer...

Good job on the carfi install!

-Colin

jfl · August 2003

I've found that most sockets from kits are not deep enough for lug bolts (at least not for the domed ones from the WRX wheels). Also, sometimes, you'll need to clear the fender while torquing the wheels so get deeper sockets. My new socket is about 2" long, which fits my needs perfectly. Longer ones are also available.

Jim

ateixeira · August 2003

Yes, we are referring to that square section you mentioned.

I have not needed deep sockets for any of my lugs, but it wouldn't hurt to have them, they are more flexible.

-juice

paisan · August 2003

We use deep sockets when we toruque down the lugs.

-mike

dcm61 · August 2003

Rebecca,

Forester, Legacy, and Outback lug nuts are 19mm.

Sears very often has Craftsman 3/8" drive deep well socket sets (Metric or SAE) on sale for half price. When it's on sale, you can get the set for a little more money than just buying the one 19mm socket ($5.49). Look for item #34443 on http://www.sears.com Regular price is $19.99 for the 9 piece set; often on sale for $9.99.

DaveM

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