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Comments
Steve
~Colin
Find an open parking lot, then drive in a figure 8 a few times.
Make sure the tire pressures are even, also.
-juice
Even if it works as advertised, there isn't any savings.
-Dave
Also looks like they replaced the accelerator cable to deal with the "stuck" high RPM's she had. So far so good.
We can both smell some burning gear oil. I'm hoping they slopped it on the case and its just burning off. If I get a chance I'll put it on the ramps tomorrow and check it.
Here's a question for those most familiar with the piston slap noise. With this car, when cold, if you put the engine under load in "D"rive you'll get a real "hammering' sound. It goes away as soon as you unload the engine. At idle when cold the nose gets louder when you raise the RPM's but tends to drop off with the fall in RPM's.
From what I understand of piston slap I should get a lot of noise when I unload the engine.
I have no intention of giving this up yet as the engine is downright embarrassing to be driving when cold.
Can anyone describe what should make the piston slap noise louder and softer?
TIA
Larry
A lot of good people are working very hard at Subaru to make an affordable enthusiasts car - boldly different from the crowd. The Outback does most things very well - great on snow and ice, nice for long road trips, excellent around town. We simply couldn't afford to keep a car with a high probability of failure. Blowing a head gasket on a vehicle at 18000 miles was upsetting, but the treatment by SOA was unforgiveable. Please put things right for the rest of your loyal customers.
Chuck
The piston slap noise is prevelant when starting the car when cold. It is definitely a distinctive knocking sound.
My 99 GT sedan (2.5 dohc auto, 120k) sounds different than the 03 when started. The engine knocks away like a diesel for about 5 minutes, then quickly quiets down.
Hope this helps. Rob M.
Having driven in lots of Subarus and Toyotas over the years, I think their auto transmissions are both pretty good when compared apples to apples.
Not sure about the whine -- maybe you could give us more details?? My wife's 03 Forester made a soft whine I associated with gear noise, but it was perfectly normal in my opinion. Didn't seem like anything to worry about and we never had any problems. The boxer engine also makes a purring "whir" noise. If you rev it in neutral, you should hear that (and know it's not a tranny noise).
Craig
I know Subaru's stance is that piston slap won't hurt the engine, but in that case why is my aluminum wear in that engine 5 times higher than the average Subaru engine Blackstone analyzes?
Anyway, thanks for the feedback. I'm going to keep after them for a while yet. If my next oil sample comes out even higher in aluminum, I'm going to start really squawking.
Larry
Thanks for your info. I really like these forms helps me learn about the ins and outs of Subarus.
Jason
Consider hooking it up to a charger whenever practical to bring it up to full. If it can get parked near an outlet occasionally, maybe install a permanently mounted trickle charger.
Steve
Sometime ago, someone posted a link to a product that is used with touch up paint to fill scratches. Can't seem to find the post. Can anyone recall the product?
Thanks.
Jay.
Didn't get a chance to check it this weekend, but did notice lots of drops of gear oil after the wife pulled out of the driveway this morning.
Called the dealer and then took time out from work to drive it in. A test plug had a defective o-ring. Didn't know there was a test plug for the diff oil, but okay.
Anyway, tranny pan and lots of the rest of the bottom of the car was covered in gear oil. They replaced the o-ring, pressure cleaned the underside of the car with some chemical then rinsed it off, and now the odor seems to be gone. Don't know about the leak yet.
Of course, given the state of my driveway it might take me a while to sort out any new leaks from the stuff this weekend.
Gives me a lot of faith in the rest of the Factory Remanufactured unit.
Not.
Larry
Probably a hired hit by the snowless (and jealous) Pacific Northwest crew. ;-)
BTW, sorry to hear about the mishap. :-(
DaveM
I have a 98 Subaru Forester with 89K miles. I have owned the car since 2001, when it had 43K miles. The brakes have always been squeaky, and I have been assured several times that they are safe, just sqeaky. Also, I have been told that the rotors have been turned as many times as they can be, and that I'll need new ones when the time comes.
I have not had anything done to the brakes since I bought the car, but I figure I must be "due" for some sort of maintenance. Plus, I have a baby on the way and I want to make sure my car is as safe as possible before then!
So, I need some advice. A mechanic told me not to go to Les Schwab or any other generic wheel/tire maintenance place because they'll replace all of the original Subaru brake parts with their own, which are of a lower quality.
Conversely, I'm hesitant to go to the dealership because I know they are going to charge much more than I'm used to spending for brakes, and I'm afraid they'll sell me much more than I really need.
So, I could use some advice! Is it worth it to go to the dealership and pay out the wazoo, just so I can have Subaru manufactured parts for my brakes? Or am I ok to go to a less expensive shop where I will get generic brake parts that may have to be replaced more often?
Jay.
There are many Subaru dealers that do internet/mail discount parts business. Carter Subaru and Subaruparts.com are two examples.
Replacing the brake hardware on a Subaru is no different from any other vehicle so any competent mechanic should be able to handle it. If you're brave enough, you probably could do it yourself.
Ken
Thanks again!
- The noise is more prevalent with colder ambient temps.
- The noise appears within a specific RPM range and is present with or without load on the engine.
- The noise is a hard metallic knocking directly tied to RPMs.
- I didn't believe Subaru's line about it being a non-destructive noise. Metal-on-metal has got to cause some type of wear.
- While they've tweaked their design, I do believe some later model engines still could be susceptible -- it's all a tolerance issue.
- If you do have the problem addressed, try and get both pistons and short block replaced. New pistons in an older block may result in ring seating problems leading to higher oil consumption.
Ken
Yeah, the boxer has a unique growl/purr/rumble sound depending on how the exhaust plumbing is set up. I really like it, after years of driving Hondas which are nice too, but not very interesting. In contrast, the boxer has a lot of character.
Craig
HTH
Larry
I'm going to re-sample the oil in about 2000-2500 miles and get another Blackstone report. Then if the Aluminum is still climbing I'll go from dealer -> district rep -> SOA case...... and whatever else I can do.
Wrong is wrong, and being in a state of corporate denial doesn't make it better. I can't think of any sane person that would be willing to purchase that car once they hear that engine, regardless of whatever piece of paper Subaru gives out denying there's a problem.
For now I'm just going to see how the new transmission hangs together. This weekend's oil leak was an inauspicious start. Not to mention my driveway now looks like crud.
Thanks again,
Larry
Long time no see for the most part. Hope you all are doing well. I have a question for ya though.
Today its snowing like mad (Noreaster up this way) and I'm getting out of work early all excited about jumping in my Subie. "This thing is MADE for this stuff !!!" I'm thinking to myself. Hop in, turn the key, car cranks and cranks and cranks. Nothing happens. My mood is immediatly souring. I hop out and clean off the car (figure let the car settle down again before I try the second time). Hop back in, and I have to leave it cranking for a good 7-10 seconds before it turned over (weakly I might add). Once I got started all was fine.
2 things were differant today then any other day:
A. The car nose was pointed down (normally I park level or w/ the nose pointing up). *I've had a Nissan Altima which refused to start when parked pointing up for a long time, I wonder if this is a similar deal*
B. Car just got serviced for its first oil change (the dealer did his inspection, lube, etc. deal to it as well).
Before you ask or advise, I ALWAYS pressurize my fuel pump/line before I crank. I wait for the whirring sound to stop before I go cranking the engine.
I smelled some faint burning for a short spell and saw some bluish smoke come out the tail pipe.
Somebody please tell me if this is a one time/rare thing or if this car is going to give me ajada?
Jopopsy
PS Hey Juice !!!!
We had lousy visibility today, but 2 inches came down as we were skiing and the snow was great. I remembered to lower the windows on the Outback in the garage when we got home - hauled lots of wet gear today. A few times it's gotten a bit musty inside the cabin.
Steve, Host
But read more below.
Frog: consider getting a Chase Subaru credit card, you earn Subaru bucks, 3% of purchases, and can pay for service that way. I have $200 already, another $100 should come next month.
Jopopsy: did you pressur.....never mind. ;-)
OK, the ugly truth is the OE battery is sorta weak to begin with. In bitter cold it's barely adequate. The OE battery on my '98 Forester had something like 260 CCAs, I replaced it with a battery that has more than double the amps, and it starts up better now.
Wal Mart cheapier, $50 or so IIRC.
-juice
Mike k
-juice
CRaig
Wish that was the case with my wife's OBW. Looking forward (I think) to the re-sample in 2000 miles or so. Would like to see the aluminum back to normal or off-scale high.
Meanwhile, the gear oil stench burning off from the rebuilt transmission is enough to gag the proverbial maggot. Kind of glad I parked on fresh snow tonight so I can see if there's fresh traces of gear oil on the ground in the morning.
I know the underside got covered from the leak, including the exhaust/cat shields. I hope that's all I'm smelling.
Onward
Larry
Craig
Before buying the '05 Forester I had a 2000 Forester. The door panels on the '00 were covered with a multicolored velour that wore a lot faster than the textured vinyl on the '05. Granted that was the result of wear and tear that came from arms rubbing on the material, rather than the type of punctures that a dog's claws might make, but just an observation.
Your comments do raise several questions:
1. Have you considered using a dog guard to keep the dog in the cargo area of the cars? They're available both from Subaru as an accessory and in the aftermarket. I don't know that a guard that fits the '02 would also fit the '05 though, so you may have to buy two.
2. You say the '02's upholstery is rugged; why not just carry the dog in the '02 and not the '05?
3. Do you know for certain that whatever Toyota you buy will have upholstery as durable as, if not more durable than, either Forester? To sell two cars with interiors that are known quantities to buy one that may be an unknown quantity is a gamble, especially since you consider the '02 interior to be rugged. If there are no other problems with the '02, why not just hang onto it? It's like cutting off your nose to spite your face.
In any event, good luck. I'd be interested to hear more details on the '05 interior and just how it was damaged.
Ed
marys: how 'bout a blanket for the dogs? Those nails can dig in and scratch anything.
-juice
upon inspection the pipes, muffler, etc. look solid. someone who looked at it indicated there may be a gasket where the exhaust pipe bolts into the system underneath the front seat area which may be bad thus causing the noise. any thoughts on this?
I have had to replace mufflers after 8 years because of this problem.
John
~c
Steve
No harm, no foul.
Ed
I was driving on the interstate after swimming up my 2 mile dirt road that had over a foot of fresh powder on it. Unplowed, as usual. My car started to shake on the interstate above 50mph, due to buildup in the wheels of snow as I should have known. I took it to the local Subaru in Bath Maine, though not MY dealership in Augusta.
To go back, at 7000 miles I had my wheels rotated in Augusta per recommends. After the rotation my wheels whined above 50mph and so I took it back a couple weeks later being an hour away. They drove it twice, changed the air pressure and sent me home. The car was perfect before the rotation.
So the wheels acme off this weekend at 11K miles and the dealer said the tires were worn to nothing on the front insides. He was correct. 500 dollars later I leave with some new Coopers which I love but feel let down by my dealership. I am descouraged the nice stock tires (some may laugh) only got 11K. I did get the allignment under warrantee. I should have kept the tires, but don't think I will get any help from my dealer. Sucks to be me. How could the car have lost its original allignment during a rotation? I BABY the car and have only recently rung it out in the dirt and snow a few times....
poopoo!
Brian
I got 28k out of mine, but I actually wanted to get rid of them sooner!
-juice
Blowouts and flat tires are not covered under any warranty, period. This would be the case with OEM tires or tires you buy from a shop. If you think this kind of damage should be covered under warranty, be sure to pay for a road hazard warranty next time around.
Craig
question: any recommendations for a source for a rebuilt engine?
thanks!
Our little dog Mac travels in car with a safety harness, it is safer for him and us to have him restrained.
Cheers Pat.
...for the last 5 years, my spaniel parks his paws on the window ledge of my '82 VW diesel p/u..it's his pickup.........
..no deleterious marks, gouges or disfigurement noted to date....
..all this and 55 MPG (@55 MPH) too.........ez
..