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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ckicklighterckicklighter Member Posts: 1
    I had a strange noise(between a whistle and a ring) behind my dash for a while. I thought it was my speedometer freezing or something. Well, it finally stopped, but when it did, I lost the illumination on the dash, as well as my tail lights. The tail lights still work when i use the parking lights. I've been told it may be a relay. Any suggestions?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've used 1stSubaruParts.com, and they even accepted Subaru Bucks as payment.

    Catch is, I'm searching now, and they don't seem to have the illustrations they used to have, so I'm not sure I'm getting the right parts. Weird.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Steve - my Miata's power antennae went bad and I just replaced it with a $10 whip antennae from Wal Mart. 5 years later I've never had a problem.

    -juice
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Warm? Come on, I live in the frozen northland of Duluth, MN (just got 12.3" of snow, more today) :P And no heater in the garage. So far it has been 40 degrees several days last week. Still didn't work. :cry:

    I'm in no rush to replace the antenna as the radio still appears to have good reception. We'll see when we go down to the Twin Cities this Wednesday.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Ask for the parts manager, and have a quiet, private discussion with him. I have received an approx 20% counter discount at both my Honda and Subaru dealer. I brought in a copy of the internet pricing including shipping on the items I wanted, and asked them to match. Both places agreed to special order items for counter pickup at comparable prices.

    I spent over $500 on the Subi (hitch kit, front deflector, security system upgrade), and better than $1200 (hitch kit, front deflector, cross bars, radio upgrade, cargo tray, etc.) on the Honda this way. Never be afraid to ask! You did it on the car, why not at the parts counter?

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    And they always take Subaru Bucks on the spot.

    I may do that since I can't see pictures of the stuff I wanted on the on-line stores.

    -juice
  • denver5357denver5357 Member Posts: 319
    I posted this on the "regular" board but wondered if any of the experts here had heard about it. We have had an '07 Outback iwagon for a month and it has started very slowly when temps hit the teens or below. Yesterday at a ski resort (we live in Colorado) my wife had trouble getting it to start at all. I had replaced the battery two weeks ago, fyi. I called the dealer and here is what i was told:

    1) A slower start is typical of Subarus, 2) they are aware of a problem Subaru's have at high altitudes starting, and hope that Subaru of America will issue a fix but so far they have not, 3) if it happens again, try starting the car with the gas halfway down, and if that doesn't work, all the way down (just don't pump). The dealer said they think it has to do with programming in the car's computer chip.

    Has anyone ever heard of this? I realize that since we live in Colorado we might be in the minority of owners to face this apparent problem. I wish I had heard of it earlier. Thanks.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I actually tried that with my local parts department, but not the parts manager. They would not budge off of list price. Their loss.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    If this was a widespread or known issue, I am sure we would have heard about it here (especially since there are tons of Subarus around ski country in Colorado), but yours is the first case I am aware of.

    The highest I have had my Subarus was 4850ft elevation, not nearly as high as the ski areas in CO. But at that elevation I never noticed any issues. Maybe some folks with higher elevation experience can chime in.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    Good idea, Steve. I should do that.
  • denver5357denver5357 Member Posts: 319
    I called SOA and they assigned a case number to this. The rep I talked to said they had no info on it. Yet the dealer was very familiar with it. I might call some other area dealers and see if they also know about it. The one interesting thing the SOA rep said was that changing the programming parameters would "require EPA approval." That sounds like the beginning of a "Yeah, we could do it but it would be too much hassle" response to me. There are indeed lots of Subarus in the area. I'm not sure that doesn't mean that this particular model and trim and year doesn't have a problem at altitude and no one has really pursued it. I plan on doing so.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    You now have this question running in two threads. I answered you over in the Outback/Legacy Maint & Repair section.

    Steve
  • hermonlandhermonland Member Posts: 9
    I am back. after fixing my battery/alarm a coup0le of weeks ago, i now have finally killed my exhaust system. it has been getting loud over the past year, and now is rumbling my car. Does anyone know a rough estimate of the cost to fix the entire exhaust system? i was quoted almost $900 over the summer (i live in Boston). I have no bearings here.
  • thscoltsthscolts Member Posts: 2
    Hi, we bought this 1995 subaru in October 2006. At that time, the driver's door would only lock with the key. About a month ago, the same thing happened with the passenger door. Well today I couldn't get back in the car on the driver's side. I could not get the door to open no matter what. So I climbed in through the passenger side and drove home. Once home, I STILL couldn't open the door! Had my son try using a key from the outside, I tried from the inside. Ended up having to exit through the passenger door. Is this a known problem? Any suggestions on fixing it???
    Thanks!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Sounds like maybe door pulls disconnected from the latch mechanism, or it froze up for some reason. On that vintage of Subaru, it was required that you lift the exterior door handle to lock the door. If the handle was not attached properly, then lifting and closing would not prevent the door from unlocking.

    I have not heard of that problem in a Subaru before, so very strange that it happened on both sides of the car (though the passenger side does still open!).

    If it is disconnected, you should be able to get to it by taking off the cladding on the inside of the door. Of course, if you cannot open the door then that might be tricky in itself!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • denver5357denver5357 Member Posts: 319
    Saw that - thanks. I would have it in additional relevant threads if there were any. I'm looking for all the advice and anecdotal info I can get.
  • thscoltsthscolts Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response. The sooby is at the shop now. Neither of us has the time right now (or probably the skills) to fix the problem. Soo...hoping it doesn't cost big bucks.
  • amsbearamsbear Member Posts: 147
    Toboggan,

    My 98 OBW Ltd antenna finally stopped retracting also. It started just getting stuck mid-way in cold/icy weather but a little lock deicer did the trick temporarily.

    I took it out and disassembled it and I saw that the inner plastic rod has snapped and therefore not get pulled down. However, it can be manually pushed down.

    Still, I'd like to get a replacement but none of the online sites that I've found carry it. Let me know if you have any luck finding it.

    Thanks,

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd (~130,000 miles)
  • rondo320rondo320 Member Posts: 10
    Had a clicking sound just before my engine started. The shop replaced the starter relay but it didn't help. They then replaced the ignition switch which took care of the problem except that my car would not start after sitting in the airport parking lot for 3 days. I got a jump and took it back to the shop where they tested it and found no drains on the system.
    After another sit in the airport parking lot, I was driving home and the battery light came on followed by a few others like the ABS and airbag lights followed by the wipers going crazy eventhough the switch was off. The entire electrical system failed and I coasted to a stop on the freeway shoulder.
    I gave up on the shop and replaced the 50amp fusible link myself and seven fuses that were blown as well as the alternator which seemed to be the cause of the shutdown. I replaced the ignition coil because it was only firing the back two cylinders. That didn't help. Before I assume that the computer was fried, is there something simpler that is causing the front two cylinders not to get a spark? It's not the plugs or the wires because they checked OK. Any suggestions?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    When you replaced the alternator, did you charge the battery up with a charger or just use the new alternator to charge the battery?

    Whenever you replace the alternator and you have run your battery down dead you need to charge your battery with a charger rather than the alternator. I had this problem on my 94 legacy. I blew the alternator and ran on the battery til it died. Then replaced the alternator, jumped the car and thought all was good. A day or 2 later, the alternator died. Apparently it cooked itself from trying to charge the completely dead battery.

    So I bought a new battery and alternator and all has been good for 30k miles more.

    -mike
  • rondo320rondo320 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks Mike,

    I did not. I'll charge it but the two front cylinders are getting no electrics at all. The battery seemed to weather the electric failure well. There's got to be a burned out relay, link or fuse or the computer itself is stopping any electric current from getting to the ignition coil for the front cylinders.

    Rondo
  • fordwrenchfordwrench Member Posts: 70
    I'm talking as a Ford tech here, but if the check engine light is on & there is a misfire code listed,then even if you fix the problem the ignition is cut to the effected cylinders until the code is cleared. That is how Ford protects the cats. if a misfire is detected. I don't know if all manufactures use this type of programing but I thought is was worth mentioning.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Please, for the love of all that is good and reasonable in this world (if any such things still exist!), someone please impart upon me a small snipit of knowledge that will enable me to remove the factory-installed oil filter. I can see why Subaru went with this loopy-loop plumbing system for the exhaust (increases ground clearance), but the trade-off was that the oil filter is now snugly encircled by the plumbing and its associated heat shields. As a result, in addition to the downsized oil filter, the clearance is not only minimal (not to mention the risk of burns when changing oil on a warm engine!), but is also 3+" down! I can fit my hand on it, but just do not have the wrist torque to break it loose. I do not expect this will be a problem after I get this filter off, since it will be my hand installing them, but this one is quite a bear. I could get a large channel lock on it from the front side if I remove the upstream oxygen sensor, but I would rather not be that drastic nor run the risk of tearing up the filter without it actually coming off.

    So, after the long-winded plea, any/all advice is welcome (other than "take it to a shop"). ;)

    Thanks in advance.....

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It's real simple after the first one is off. I usually let a dealer or jiffy lube type place do the first one. :)

    Done 100s of them over the years on subies and it's pretty easy. You can use channel locks or even a screw driver jammed in it :)

    -mike
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    What vehicle are we talking about? My 06 3.0 is a piece of cake to reach, except for the stupid plastic shroud that has to be moved out of the way in order to get to the filter. The only time I miss my 98 OB is when it comes time to change the oil.

    I assume you can not get an oil filter remover that fits on a socket on the filter?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    2.5L NA - I should snap a photo of the exhaust piping - you'd probably get a kick out of it. ;)

    Oil filter remover - possibly, I would have to see one. Quite honestly I have never seen one like what you describe. My dad had a couple handle-loop deals that would crush the filter while removing it, but something like that would just not fit in here as there is no way to get one at it from the side. There might be a 3/4" gap between the engine and exhaust along the front side. Beyond, though, there is only 2" or so between there and the radiator to the front! So, other than straight down, there is no good way to get at it short of dropping the exhaust.... which seems just a tad extreme.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Hahahaha. . .Argh! I would go for the tool zman3 described before consenting to allow a place like J.L. touch my car.

    I don't think the screw driver would work - just no angle or clearance to get one in there... let alone having the room to "jam" it! Still considering the channel locks, but again, it would require removal of the oxygen sensor and even then there would be only about 1", maybe a little more, of handle movement.

    I think I will look for that removal tool as a first effort. If it is spendy, I will get it, have it on-hand as a backup, then try the channel locks. If it works, back goes the tool. If not, I am not stuck at home with a car that has a destroyed oil filter. :surprise: :mad:

    I cannot even remember how many times I changed the one on my other Subaru. Maybe 40 times? No problems removing by hand, even after I did have a shop do an oil change. But, there was a lot more clearance - and no serpentine exhaust system straddling it like a boa constrictor. Even my van's filter is a cake-walk compared to this '07. And believe me, that one is no jewel of simplicity. ;)

    Like you suggested, though, this is probably just an issue for the first filter.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I can't exactly envision what your situation looks like. The filter remover that I use fits over the end of the filter, the end opposite of the opening that threads onto the car. A ratchet can then be snapped into the remover to loosen the filter. There are different sizes for various filter sizes.

    If you have open access to that end I think the tool I mention would work great.

    Here are somewhat helpful links showing the tool that I found on the web.

    http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3298.html

    http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&Part- Number=7759006&Description=Oil+Filter+Wrench+-+End+Cap
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Generally I use channel locks directly down from the filter. This isn't really as complicated as it sounds!

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Ah, and I tried that as soon as it was apparent that hand-torque alone would not cut it. Alas, I can get the locks ON it, but cannot turn due to the exhaust! :mad:

    It should not be complicated... I know. I felt like a "newb" when I finally decided it could be fruitful to post here. Alas, swallowing my pride is something to which I am growing quite accustomed these days..... :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Ah Ha! That could definitely do it! I will stop by a local shop today to see if I can get one. Thanks!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Just make sure you know the proper size ahead of time. I don't think there is any book to look up sizes, like there is for filters.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Well, of course I did not bring a filter with me, but I have the filter # (Napa Gold) and Napa is the nearest shop, so I will try there and just match up while I am at the store. Thanks again to both you and Mike for the suggestions!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rondo320rondo320 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks,
    Clearing the code is beyond my expertise, now that the simple stuff of replacing the alternator and ignition coil are done, I may have to haul it to the shop. If it is the code, it's certainly cheaper than a computer. Thanks.
    Rondo
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Should be able to clear just by disconnecting the battery for a while. 30 minutes is more than enough time.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Stopped by Napa after work. They had filters and the wrench in stock, so I picked it up for $8. Got home, went to put the wrench on.... and it did not quite fit the OEM filter (slightly too small)! Not willing to be beaten yet again, I wedged it on and the unit turned right off. Now I just have to separate the wrench from the old filter..... :blush: :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Sounds like you took care of business Wes! The first filter is on killer tight, as is the drain plug. I remember having to use a pipe to get my drain plug loose the first time. The filter-wrench tools are the way to go.

    Craig
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Hahahahaha, well enough is enough already! The wrench actually came off without too much difficulty - probably helped that it was coated in oil! I just wiped it (it being the wrench/filter combo) off, thwacked the lip of the wrench against an old wooden crate a few times as I turned it in my hand, and eventually the wrench went flying - and even with no damage!

    The plug was horridly tight. I broke it loose with just the 3/8" ratchet, but when it popped the socket jumped off the ratchet and landed in the oil pan, splashing yet more oil to yonder realms. I also found out that the filter for my '96 2.5L works fine on this engine.... just has about a 1/2" larger diameter to the exterior of the seal and therefore reduces the clearance from the exhaust even further. Just FYI in case the are any masochists out there! :P

    I have to keep reminding myself that it is mid-March. Temp this morning was -35F and it warmed up to about 0F by day's end. With the northeast wind this evening, it was probably about -15F to the skin. Not real comfortable driveway maintenance weather, but at least the engine was warm! And, depending on how close my fingers were to the exhaust... sometimes VERY warm!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Nice, glad it worked out. I hope your subaru experience gets better once the warm weather is here.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    So do I! Very disappointing so far, but perhaps I just expected too much. I expected a car that was better than my 96, and instead I have one that is, in many ways, worse. It took me a while to warm up to my 96, but I purchased that one used and it had what I consider to be "previous owner" problems. This one had no such plausible excuses. As juice so often says, must have been a "Friday 5pm build." :lemon:

    Moving away from complaints (easy to get sucked in!), I had planned to change my gear oil to 75W-90 amsoil when I did the oil change last night. But, as I should have come to expect, the drain plug for the transmission was not something as simple as a socket or 1/2" drive casting (like the rear differential), but instead was a Torx drive... and a huge one at that! So, I made yet another trip to Napa on my way to work this morning. I ended up taking back the two remaining Napa Gold filters from my '96 and seat-of-my-pants decided on a Torx socket size... went with a "T60," as that was the largest one they had. Amazingly, I walked away with nearly $6 added to my pocket! Now that is a rare event!

    Too bad they did not have a T1000 - a liquid metal version could have come in real handy for all sorts of applications! :P Hahaha... okay, sorry for the obscure reference. Anyway, I squeezed myself under the car when I arrived at work and..... the T60 fit! It felt a *little* sloppy, but it seemed to grab the wings solidly enough, so I hope it will work. If anyone knows for sure that this is the wrong size (Napa carried them in increments of "5"... T50, T55, T60) and, perhaps, a T65 or similar is the correct one, let me know!

    I hope to get the gear oil changed out tonight. The factory stuff is like Jell-O in this cold weather.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It stinks horribly, too. Consider wearing latex gloves.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Ah, great suggestion! Since I do have some (for rabbit butchering), I might as well use them.

    From many of the other sites I read today, it looks like the plug is actually a T70 Torx. Figures. Availability on that size looks somewhat limited. T60 is the largest of the "normal" sizes.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I bought a set of large Torx sockets to change the diff fluid on my 05 OB XT (which I since sold). I searched high and low for the T70 size listed in the service manual, and could not find it, so I had to order a whole set online from Northern Tool for about $30. When I finally changed the fluid, I found the torx plug was actually smaller than the T70 the service manual said. I think it was a T60, but don't remember for sure. But it turned out to be one of the common sizes, meaning I didn't need to buy a whole set to get the T70. So definitely double check on the size. The T60 may in fact be the correct size.

    Craig
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Thanks, Craig. Oddly enough, I also found that Torx set at Northern Tool. But, I really wanted to find something local so that I could do the fluid change today while I was in the mindset for it and while the temperatures were still cold. Yes, I know that sounds odd since I have to do all my maintenance in the driveway, but I am mostly concerned with cold weather performance and I cannot find that out if it is warm! ;)

    Anyway, I also searched high and low for the T70 locally - to no avail. There are more Subaru enthusiasts here than one can shake a stick at, but alas, none of them had spoken up to volunteer a T70 by the time I was headed home. So, I decided to go with my gut instinct this morning when I squeezed under the car to test fit that T60 - it was a little small, but large enough that it worked just fine for the job. Had the plug been in there at, say, 90 ft#, it would have likely chattered. But, it was actually easier to pop that plug loose than it was the oil pan! Maybe the 1/2" drive breaker bar had something to do with that..... :blush:

    I drove the back of the car up onto ramps, set the brake, lifted each side of the front up and set it on stands, then drained the MT followed by the rear diff. I was surprised at how much 'gunk' was built up on the magnetic plug caps at both locales already - with "only" 4300 miles on the car! Hopefully that was just initial wear-in and was not indicative of excess gear wear.

    Anyway, it went smoothly. My 2.75 y.o. son was quite the little helper - standing by to ask many a question and keep me "honest." :P

    I took the car for a short spin after dropping back to the ground. It actually seems to shift much smoother now and with less effort, so I hope that holds good tidings.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Out of curiosity, with what did you replace your '05 XT?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Amsoil is good stuff. We use that in all our race cars and my performance boat. I will be replacing the oil in the 502s with Amsoil on the first oil change.

    -mike
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Where can I find Amsoil? I checked Advance, Murray's and Autozone and it was not on the shelves.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Hi Wes,

    Sorry.. behind in my reading again. I have two multi-fit filter end cap socket wrenches that are just terrific for tight vertical access. One has two wide tabs, one has three small tabs. There is a geared thingy that opens and closes the tabs so that they fit a wide variety of filters. Attach the wrench and the twisting action closes the tabs, grips the filter, and rotates it off.

    Steve

    http://www.stridetool.com/tools/autospecialty/oilwrench_if104.gif

    http://www.toolweb.com/pics/LIS63250.jpg
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    moparbad shoot me an e-mail. Amsoil is almost all done via independent dealers via mail order.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Indeed. The local Napa stores here in Fairbanks carry an array of their products, but the cost is quite a bit higher than other sources. I purchased mine online, after buying a $20 annual "preferred customer" card. Shipping cost was negligible and came from a distribution warehouse ("sponsor dealer") in Palmer.

    The landed cost was just under $320 for 4 gallons of 2000 series 0W-30, two gallons of 75W-90 gear oil, a bottle pump, 12 bottles of fuel system cleaner, a bottle of engine flush, and 4 oil filters for the Subaru. Actually worked out to a significantly cheaper cost than a comparable time frame of basic 5W-30 "dino" oil and filters.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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