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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Turn the key to the ON position, listen for the "whirr", and only after that noise try to start it.

    The fuel pump has to build up pressure, that may affect the startup.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    When you get in the car, turn the key to the "on" position and leave it there for 3-5 seconds before attempting to start the engine.

    In my '96, I never did this nor did I ever have a problem with it starting within 2-3 cranks. In fact, I could never hear the quiet "whir" of the pump priming the line.

    In my '07, it makes a difference. If I do not prime the pump, it will still fire off in a crank or two, but it then stumbles for a moment before steadying. When I prime, it starts just as fast with no stumble. I can hear the "whir" on this one as well. It lasts about 2 seconds, so I put the key to "on," put on my seatbelt, then start it.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • masteryodamasteryoda Member Posts: 41
    yup, I tried that, just wasn't familiar with the 'priming' term. There's no difference. Somebody has suggested that there's some sort of condensation in the fuel tank and when it's cold, it takes a while from the engine to start because of it. The frustrating part about this that it started happening all of a sudden, a few weeks ago, so wouldn't the condensation problem be more gradual? The same rational with plug wires, would it be a gradual decrease in the starting performance? I took my car for a T-belt change, and tech informed me that the plugs are fine, but wires could cause this. So, I'm really perplexed. :confuse:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Kate had luck with a can of DryGas, FWIW, on her Forester.

    Spark plug wires would be the next thing to try. After that, the ignition coil.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    How many tanks of gas have you used since the problem? Could be a bad fuel issue as well.

    -mike
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    after plugs, plug wires and maybe ignition coil, I would investigate the coolant temp sensor, manifold temp sensor and idle air control motor.

    after that, you've covered most of the things that are involved with cold vs. hot start...

    ~Colin
  • masteryodamasteryoda Member Posts: 41
    It's been about 2 gas tanks, and to tell you the truth I at first suspected bad Gasoline, but than I filled the car with another and same thing. I'll try that DryGas and see what happens. Hopefully, it just that condensation...

    Thank you all for these suggestions, I'll let you know of the results.
  • masteryodamasteryoda Member Posts: 41
    Well, looks like that DryGas liquid did the trick. Now the car is starting the way it used to a few weeks ago. Thank you all for your help!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Cool, glad to hear it.

    Keep in mind I'd swap out the spark plug wires after (at most) 60k miles anyway. They do wear.

    On my Miata I only get 30k miles from a set.
  • susan26susan26 Member Posts: 1
    I bought an Imprezza Outback 2007 last October. I continued to have problems w/the battery dying. Towed twice. Finally. they replaced the radio and for the last six weeks my subaru is running problem free. The radio was defective and recalled and draining the battery.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Strange...I'll try to remember that one next time someone asks. The OE stereo? Weird.
  • larryinallarryinal Member Posts: 2
    Had valves replaced in my 99 Forester (SOHC) engine. the posted valve clearances were:

    Intake 0.10 - 0.25
    Exhaust 0.15 - 0.30

    Seems a wide range of values .... anyone noticed this or have you checked (for any reason) the valve settings on this engine in your vehicle? Larry.
  • paco82paco82 Member Posts: 1
    Is there anyone out there that can walk me through removing the dash kit from a 02 Outback LL Bean to install a stereo??? It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Pull up the fake wood trim piece around the shifter area, it's held in by clips.

    Remove the ash tray assembly -- there are a couple screws, one is way in the back. Unplug the light.

    Remove any screws holding the fake wood trim panel. Then you can remove this piece from the dash, giving access to the radio stack.

    Good luck!
    Craig
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I set the valve lash on my (no longer owned) '99 Impreza 2.5RS which had the SOHC engine as well. It's a pain.

    Basically, you want the lash at the minimum specification to reduce noise. At some point beyond 60k miles (perhaps 100k), a normal car should have it checked and set.

    Are you hearing excessive valvetrain noise, or were you just curious after having the work done?

    ~Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    When craig says "way in the back", he ain't kidding. You need a very long Phillips screw driver with a magnetic head, so you don't lose that bolt.
  • leharveyleharvey Member Posts: 10
    Colin .. no excessive noise, actually the engine is quieter than before the adjustment. What I am experiencing is hesitation and the engine seems to lack power and 'lag' when accelerating. That's why I was curious about a 'ecu' reset .. the shop says they set the clearance 'loose' after replacing the valves .. the engine had good power at that time and no noticable 'lag'... then after the 1000M reset .. set to a 'tighter' clearance - now the 'lag'.
    I am going to have them 'loosen' the clearance and see if this is the problem. Any other insights are appreciated! Larry.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Larry,

    What exactly happened to necessitate valve replacement? I think you said before that only the valves were replaced, which if literally true could potentially explain a loss of power.

    A single overhead-cam engine cannot foul the valves on themselves because as the name indicates, only one camshaft drives both intake and exhaust valves. So what did the valves hit? Either water or one or more pistons, which may have-- probably did-- damage the piston tops to some extent, and possibly connecting rods. Low chance of crankshaft damage as it's the strongest component by far, so everything else tends to give. 'Everything else' also includes the camshaft, when valves hit each other or a piston you can flatten a cam lobe or even twist/break the camshaft.

    Sorry to paint a grim portrait, but I just have a very hard time believing that a complete repair could be done only by replacing valves. I hope that's not the case...

    ~Colin
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Perhaps, as a result of setting the tighter clearances, one or more valves is not seating fully and is resulting in decreased compression in one or more cylinders. This could certainly result in a noticeable loss of power; especially at low RPMs. :confuse:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    The interior of my car has a strange odor almost like WD40. I do not notice it under the hood,and there are no noticeable leaks on the ground. It has been in the garage where I park it for 3 days and there were was nothing underneath it when I checked. I seem to smell it only inside the vehicle and it is quite strong. Does anyone have any ideas as to what it might be? Thanks.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Does the AC work OK? I am wondering if you have a refrigerant leak.
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    I have not tried it but I will tomorrow if possible. If that is the case want does repairing it entail. Thanks for the input.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Look for any damp areas, maybe carpet stains. Check the moonroof drains if you have that option. Check in the passenger footwell where most of the HVAC stuff sits.
  • leharveyleharvey Member Posts: 10
    Colin ... timing belt 'broke' as a result of the 'tensioner' attachement bolt breaking off. I posted this in a previous thread. Engine was taken apart and examined ... head checked .. no other damage other than valve being slightly bent .. the car ran fine after initial repair = good power, no hesitation or other issues. Returned to shop after 1000 miles for valve re-adjustment and now the issues.. have been out of town for a week but intend to return car for re-check - I have used this auto shop for many years .. several differant cars and they have always been good to work with so will see what we can find.
    thanks for response ..
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My sister's brake light bulb went out on her 03 Forester. There are actually 4 total, 2 per side. It was the lower one on the left side.

    Interestingly, my '98 has an access panel and you go from the inside of the car to do this.

    On the 03, you actually remove the taillight. Two 10mm bolts hold it in place, once you remove those you pull the entire taillight assembly away from the car, it has 3 snaps and it sort of "pops" out of place. Don't pull too hard, because the wires are still connected.

    Changed the bulb in no time, and then reversed the process.

    Just found it funny that the 1998 and 2003 models are entirely different in this regard. :confuse:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    That is strange. I think I would prefer the interior access covers, but then again a couple of the covers on my '96 were destroyed as a result of plentiful use of the cargo area... :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    Embarrassed to say a bottle of Subaru Fuel Injection Cleansor broke open in one of my bags in the back of the vehicle. Since I was away for a week the liquid and/or its odor permeated everything. I have replaced the carpeting and thrown away the bags and their contents;rain jacket, blanket etc. I even had a Subaru Winter Weather Kit which I had to jettison. Even my jumper cables smell, but I have not thrown them out yet. Oh well better to replace things than to drive in a toxic car.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Bummer, sorry to hear that. :sick:

    Buy a box of baking soda and keep that in the cargo area. In fact do that all the time, regardless.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Ick! At least you found it, though!

    A small Rubbermaid "Rough Tote" works wonders for storing emergency/maintenance equipment in the back of the car. It is spill proof, portable, and compact - for next time, anyway. :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    I prefer the removal of the tail light. I've replaced bulbs with access panels that are a pain in the ###! Maybe thee new way ss cheaper to repair in an accident?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I guess the new one is more modular.

    It seemed to seal well, the area wasn't dirty at all. So it works. :)
  • daysailerdaysailer Member Posts: 720
    Does anyone have a source for Subaru OEM Shop manuals? I just did a search and found Subaru very poorly represented - mostly the Haynes/Chilton aftermarket (and usually very geric) manuals.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You can buy it directly online from SOA and download it to your computer. You can buy parts or the whole thing I think.

    -mike
  • daysailerdaysailer Member Posts: 720
    Thanks. I had found the subscription download section on the SOA site but had not drilled down far enough to learn that "hard-copy" purchases were also available. The bad news is that the price is exhorbitant! $278 without TSBs or OBDII information which is only available by subscription.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    $278 is fairly cheap as far as OEM manuals go. I believe I paid close to $500 for the SVX Shop manuals. My Isuzu one was $350 or $400.

    -mike
  • daysailerdaysailer Member Posts: 720
    My Miata manual was $55!!!!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    From Mazda, though?

    I have the Chilton's manual for the Miata and let me say, IT STINKS!

    It's so useless that I don't embark on *any* project without getting a 2nd set of instructions from another source, usually on-line.

    The amount of help for even a simple brake job was rather pathetic.

    You do get what you pay for. :sick:
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    I used to buy the factory shop manuals for all my cars (from Helm, I believe), dating back to my 1969 Ford Falcon. The last one I bought was for my wife's 2000 Honda Odyssey, which set me back about $50.00. My 2001 Forester was the first vehicle I ever owned where one wasn't readily (and affordably) available.

    Len
  • daysailerdaysailer Member Posts: 720
    Not "from" Mazda, but it was the OEM manual offered by an aftermarket retailer. And that's the point, I can't find an aftermarket source for Subaru manuals. Honda and others offer their manuals through Helms as mentioned above. And yes, The Chilton/Haynes manuals that I have seen are near worthless, providing a lot of generic filler material interspersed with a bit of brand specific info.

    Subaru apparently wishes to discourage owner maintenance, a pity!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe that the manuals offered by Subaru are well worth the money. They are very very specific and detailed. I have the helms manual which was the "OEM" one for my trooper and while it's good, it does not provide the full details that the SOA manuals contain. By the way if you are working on a specific part or area you can download just that part for a fee from SOA. So for someone like myself who never will do internals on my engine, no need for me to get that portion.

    There is very little maintenance that needs to be done on these cars, so I'm not sure why you think they are discouraging owner maintenance.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They don't - peek under your hood and you'll see that all the fluid filler necks are capped with bright yellow lids. Oil, dipstick, windshield washer, clutch, brake, PS, even ATF and gear oil.

    Any deeper than that and they want you to come in for service with their trained mechanics, naturally. We pay below invoice for cars so this is the only way they can make money and stay in business!
  • daysailerdaysailer Member Posts: 720
    All of the OEM manuals that I have purchased in the past 40 years have been very detailed and model specific, but they were not so expensive. And, unless I've missed something, the individual sections are not priced for download, rather, you must subscribe to the service for a minimum price of ~$35 for 72hrs. Not that I'll live long enough to download them over "dial-up" and without a computer in the garage, an electronic copy is of limited value.

    Although I don't expect the Impreza to require more than fluid changes in the near future, eventually there will be routine maintenance for which a munual is useful, e.g. brake maintenance, timing belt changes, etc., even if one never messes with "engine internals". And there is always the possibility of failure, however remote, that would leave you at the mercy of dealer service (I expect to own the car much longer than the warranty).

    Lastly, I like to become familiar with any machine that I own, particulary one such as the Subaru that is different in many ways from my previous vehicles, and I know of no better source than a shop manual.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    All of the OEM manuals that I have purchased in the past 40 years have been very detailed and model specific, but they were not so expensive. And, unless I've missed something, the individual sections are not priced for download, rather, you must subscribe to the service for a minimum price of ~$35 for 72hrs. Not that I'll live long enough to download them over "dial-up" and without a computer in the garage, an electronic copy is of limited value.

    Well in this day and age, the "dial-up" excuse doesn't hold water, it is 2007! Eventually if you like it or not you'll need to come into the computer age, I'm not trying to be harsh, but it's just a reality. What I did was downloaded all the sections I thought I would need in that 72hr period, then I have them on my computer. Simply print out the pages you want to use and take em to the garage with you. One of the distinct advantages is that you can take it under the car with you and get it all dirty, and throw it out when you are done!

    -mike
    "Get on board the technology train, or it'll knock you down!" :)
  • daysailerdaysailer Member Posts: 720
    "Excuse"?? I am and have been well entrenched in the "computer age", but where I live the only broad band available is a single, overpriced, cable company. Their prices are indeed "Comcastic"!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    The Chilton/Haynes manuals that I have seen are near worthless, providing a lot of generic filler material interspersed with a bit of brand specific info.

    I will agree with you regarding the Chilton manuals, but my experience with a Haynes manual for my '96 Outback was very positive. Considering all the work I did on that car, there were only a couple times that I had to fumble through something because it was unknown to me and was not covered in detail. I had no complaints, and neither did the car (after it was repaired, that is!). ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    I am and have been well entrenched in the "computer age", but where I live the only broad band available is a single, overpriced, cable company. Their prices are indeed "Comcastic"!

    I hear ya there. If you can believe it, there is no option other than dial-up at my location other than the option mentioned below, which is prohibitively expensive. I do have a decent connection at work, so admittedly I use the connection to my advantage from time to time. :blush:

    I have some friends who live in the wilderness along the Yukon River near Ruby, and they have something called "Star Band." Spendy, but it puts them in contact with the world whereas otherwise their nearest neighbor is about 7 miles downriver!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm not trying to bust on anyone about the internet, I'm just saying that as things go forward there will be more and more things that are only available "online" and online with a highspeed connection at that. Chilton manuals are worthless, I have similar ones for my boat that basically give instructions like "remove transmission" or "remove outdrive"

    -mike
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    "Comcastic" is a terrible slogan. It always makes me think of "bombastic" rather than "fantastic".
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    What you do it get 3 neighbors to split the cost, and get a really good wireless router... :D
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    You might try e-mailing one of the online Subaru parts places like allsubaru.com to see what kind of a price they can give you. Accessories are cheaper this way, so maybe the shop manual would be, too. They may not list it in their online catalog, but I bet they could get it.
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