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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I had a problem with my 98 which I traced to my bad habit of keeping my cell phone and other junk in the little space in front of the shift lever which would bump against the junk and not quite get into P properly even though it looked like it was in P and so the safety switch would stop me from starting the next time I tried to drive.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    I filled the car with premium a couple weeks ago and the CEL went off after a couple days.
    Well, last week I put regular in and BAM! the CEL went on again. So a few days ago back with 93 fill up and today it went off.
    I got the catalyst code when I brought it to Advanced Auto.
  • jumbobjumbob Member Posts: 1
    1998 outback- Several times now the car only clicks when trying to start it. I have found that turning on the key to full on position, stepping on the brake , and shifting to N or back to P, it has started as normal. Neutral switch seems very likely, battery seems good, I replaced it not long ago, when the starter spins it has good speed. Terminals are tight. Yesterday it took my wife 15 min. of switching between N and P and as I arrived it had started. I took it in three days ago to a very trusted auto repair place, they couldn't find anything wrong "couldn't replicate the probelm", and didn't charge me. Will this show on the computer codes? I haven't tried just clicking until it starts in the same gear, maybe shifting (nuetral switch) it is not the problem, it could be just the solenoid. Is there a way of isolating the solenoid?

    Will the computer codes report a lock out due to anti-thief devices?
    It seems when it clicks but doesn't start can be: neutral switch, or anti-thief circuit, lose wire to solenoid or just solenoid (knowing the battery and battery terminals are good). How can you tell which?

    Also for my wife's 2 cents, she would just replace the starter/solenoid ($100 plus labor), she is freaked out she will be stuck somewhere. What do you think, just throw money at it and hope the solenoid is the problem?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd get the neutral safet switch replaced. That is most likely the problem. Do you have an aftermarket alarm? if it cuts the fuel pump or the electronics that could be the problem, but they didn't have a starter-blocker from the factory in 98.

    -mike
  • cob1cob1 Member Posts: 10
    Let me close the loop on this for other readers. The problem turned out to be the ground lead from the battery. If the ground lead from the battery was connected to the ground post on the starter, it just clicked. I moved the groung lead to the top bolt that connects the starter to the transmission and the starter worked perfectly. If you use a VOM and check resistance from the starter ground post to the transmission housing, it is 0 ohms. There is no reason the cable should not work on the starter ground post but it doesn't. It works on the transmission mounting bolt so that is where it is. Problem solved.
  • cob1cob1 Member Posts: 10
    I need a set of nice 15in custom rims for a 1999 Subaru Impressa at a good price.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Why not just get a set of 16" RS takeoffs? or WRX? or any modern subaru rims.

    -mike
  • sixtystackssixtystacks Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2002 Sub OBS; it has about 64,000 miles and had no major issue (aside from a noisy engine. I have always had the oil changed and rotated the tires and had new brakes put on about 18 months ago; just the front disc. The rear ones are drums.

    I am anticipating doing a lot of winter driving this year much more than I have done in the past. On my trip to the dealer I was shocked by the sticker price of the maintenance schedule but I think it is best to be safer than sorry up here. Do I just go with what they suggest in the schedule?

    Any tips on what I absolutely should have done? Ideas?

    Thanks guys!!
    Peter
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Ended up doing the 60,000 mile check over a period of several weeks on my OBW. White Bear Subaru wanted an arm & leg for it. If you have any mechanical inclinations, it is not that difficult.
  • sixtystackssixtystacks Member Posts: 17
    Unfortunately I only know where the gas cap is....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Consider getting a Chase Subaru credit card. You earn 3% back in Subaru Bucks, up to $500 per year, and can pay for maintenance with them.

    We've earned $1500 so far. Wife puts business expenses on the card. Voila. Free money.
  • gaucho1gaucho1 Member Posts: 22
    At 60,000 miles, your Subaru will need scheduled checks and services on a regular basis. That's the only way it will go another 500,000!

    I worked up to 470,000 on a 1987 Subaru wagon. I had to retire the old girl when Fuji Heavy Industries quit making a particular gasket for the airbox. (If the engine had to come apart for some reason, there was no way to put it back together without another gasket. so... off to the pasture with her.)

    You will need to have a regular mech looking the thing over. Either suck up and pay what the dealer wants, or find another mech who can do the job for a better price.

    Additionally, I recommend firing off a snail-mail letter to Subaru of America, if you find a cheaper place to do business. they may not act on your particular complaint, but it will raise a flag over that dealer's activities.
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Sorry to hear that.... Looks like you'll have to "bite the bullet" and pay for the checkup. :P Regretfully I can't think of an independent in the Twin Cities to do the checkup for you (especially since we Moved to Duluth several years ago :blush: ).
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    So I'm reaching out to the all-knowing Subaru community hoping that someone else has had a similar problem to that which has plagued my '07 Outback for the past month.

    About a month ago I was running some errands and suddenly my Outback lost all throttle response and I was met with a barrage of flashing lights throughout my instrument cluster. The 'Check Engine' and 'Vehicle Dynamics Control' lights came on in the lower left hand corner as well as a flashing 'cruise' light. The car also slowed to about 5 mph as if the cruise control had been set.

    Luckily I was not on one of our many So.Cal freeways so I was able to pull over and wait for Roadside Assistance who came and towed my car to Irvine Subaru. Of course this had to happen at 11am on a Saturday so I was left without a car until Monday. Finally, Monday afternoon they called and said they found the "immobilizer code" had been tripped which made the car shut down to 5mph, so they reset the codes and everything should be good to go.

    Now, over the past 3 weeks the same thing has happened (twice on the freeway) and two different dealers have attempted to fix it by 'resetting the codes' and ordering a relay that they think could be the origin of my problems.

    Has anyone else had this kind of problem? Or do you have any suggestions on possible remedies? Once again my car is sitting at a dealer over the weekend and I would like to have a few suggestions for the Service Department when i meet with them on Monday.

    At this point, my wife won't drive in the car and I have begun to research the California Lemon Law to see what my options are. I didn't spend $30k+ for a car that turns into a 2,000 lb paperweight every Friday.

    Thoughts?
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Sorry to hear you are having this problem. I have a vague recollection that someone else, and I don't recall if it was an Outback or Tribeca owner, reported something similar happening to them. Don't think that person mentioned a default to the immobilizer mode, though. I've looked through some earlier posts, and you can try typing in key words in the Edmunds search function as I did, to see if you can come up with the post I'm thinking of, as I can't find it.

    But, if you haven't already, make sure you report this to Subaru directly (1 800 number) to get a formal case started with them. They can be very helpful. There are a couple of reports to NHTSA from 07 Outback owners regarding acceleration while using cruise control, (also an electrcial/computer problem), but nothing I saw directly on point. And you can file a complaint with NHTSA as this is a safety problem.

    Good luck, and let us know what happens. Perhaps someone else will be able to shed some light on the earlier post.

    Martin
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    Sometimes the dealers service suggestions differs from what Subaru recommends in its scheduled service guidelines.Check to see if there have been any additions and if they are necessary.
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks Martin, I'm going to get on the phone with Subaru tomorrow and we'll see where it goes from there. I'll be sure to keep you guys posted although hopefully nobody else will have the same issue. Take care!

    Danny
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Are you always using the same key? The problem may be related to the key side rather than the car side. Try using the other key and see if it happens.

    -mike
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    I have used the same key predominately which I told the service manager this morning when I dropped off the car. He said it's a long shot considering the car doesn't shut-down all the time, only about once a week. Since I use the same key it should happen every time, right?

    They were going to dig into it this morning and let me know what they're prognosis is. Hopefully they find out what's going on because I'm not driving the car again and letting it shut down while doing 65mph on the freeway. At some point it because a safety issue and Subaru is definitely liable.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What makes you think it couldn't be a sporadic connection issue in the key? Inside the key is a microchip, hence anything can effect it making contact, heat, humidity, vibration, a tiny break in the circuit etc.

    I would personally have them replace the key and start with that. Gotta give them a chance to fix it before coming in all guns ablaze that you Subaru will be liable, etc.

    -mike
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    I spoke with the service manager yesterday and they seem to think that the issue has to due with the Idle Control Module which would explain why the car slows to about 5 mph but it doesn't explain the flashing 'cruise' light.

    I also mentioned the keys and he said that it would be unlikely that the key is the root of the evil. Apparently once the car is started the key no longer controls the ignition.

    Believe me, the last thing I want to do is try and pursue a 'Lemon Law' case but when you're driving 70mph on a crowded freeway and the car shuts down, that seems to be a pretty big safety problem. The scary part is that they have no way of testing the repairs they make other than giving me the car as hoping it doesn't happen again. I personally don't want to be the one to find out whether or not they fixed it.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Here's a suggestion.
    Tell the Service Manager and their crew to think outside of the box.
    Swap out the ECU for another of the like model and see if the problem occurs.

    When the ECU goes, which is rarely known to do, the system does not know what code(s) to throw. It'll either throw everything but the kitchen sink or nothing at all.

    -Dave
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Would they still get the "click" if it was the neutral safety switch, or would the fault in the switch (i.e., the car thinks the transmission is not in P or N) prevent power to the starter circuit altogether?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    I also mentioned the keys and he said that it would be unlikely that the key is the root of the evil. Apparently once the car is started the key no longer controls the ignition.

    That is true. I could start my '07 Outback with my "door key" (a Home Despot knock off) as long as I kept my chipped key up by the dash while I was starting it with the other. I could then leave the chipped key out of range (in my pocket, at home, back seat, etc) and the car would run without flaw until I next shut it off.

    This sounds like it will be a tough one to ferret out.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Another possibility is that it could be the ignition switch itself.
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    I agree that the best bet may be to swap out the ECU. The hard part with this repair is the randomness that the problem occurs. It took 3 weeks between the first two shut-downs and a week between #2 and #3. The service manager had his tech drive the car home with the diagnostic computer hooked up hoping that the problem would occur to or from the dealer.

    At this point it seems that an ECU swap may be over the top but necessary. The odds are being pushed and eventually the car is going to shut-down at a bad time and someone is going to get hurt. Better safe than sorry?
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    I don't think its the ignition because the car doesn't shut off or stop running. What happens is the 'check engine' light and ABS light come on in the lower left corner and the green cruise control light flashes. All while the car loses throttle response at acts as if the cruise-control has been set at around 5mph. The car doesn't shut off, it just slows to 5mph (sometimes on the freeway).
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Randomness it may appear, but it is not. The variable is the time driven, how, when, where, etc... There is a specific critiria in your driving and surrounding condition(s) that will kick in the problem.

    Think back to the last three occurance. What were you doing, driving, etc... every detail will help.

    i.e.
    I had a problem that was thought to be misfirings/bad gas.
    Narrowed it down to:
    Only occurs when it is hot and not during rainy or cool conditions.
    Only after more than 40 miles of driving.

    -Dave
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    Well, the weather isn't a factor here, in Southern California its 70-80 year round, no rain.

    1st occurance - was stopped at a red light but when the light turned green and i stepped on the gas.. nothing. The car accelerated (on its own) to 4 or 5 mph and i pulled it off to the side of the road.

    2nd occurance - Driving on the freeway, in the carpool lane. Probably doing around 60-65 mph. The car suddenly became unresponsive to the pedal and gradually slowed to 5mph. During which i had to cross 4 lanes of traffic and get off the freeway.

    3rd occurance - Stopped at a red light once again, exact same reaction as the first occurance.

    Since two of the three were at a red light it seems like the Idle Control DooDad might be the answer, but it doesn't really explain the freeway instance.

    All three times i turned off the car, removed the key and retried. The same warning lights and flashing 'cruise control' light would go on every time. Usually after 5-10 tries and about 5 minutes the car would start up and run fine again.
  • chilmarkchilmark Member Posts: 5
    Over the past 8 months I've been having a mystery noise problem from my 02 Outback Sedan (H6) 80K miles..It only occurs when accelerating.When I take my foot off the gas the sound stops. It also does not occur when revving engine at idle. Sounds like a low-pitch whine coming from engine compartment.I've checked tires, brakes, wheel bearings with no problems discovered.The noise is becoming louder over time. Anyone have a similar problem or any experience with this situation? Thanks, this is driving me crazy.
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    Driveshaft? would explain why it doesn't occur while revving while idle.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    I had two whines that elicited similar symptoms. One was coming from worn idler pulleys for the timing belt (replaced them at 193K miles), but this one could be heard if revving the engine hard enough at a stand still, especially with the A/C running. The other noise was with me until the day the car was destroyed, and it did gradually get louder over time. I heard the sound for about 70K miles (~150,000 to 220,000), but it was never so loud as to make me think a failure was eminant. I think it was coming from the rear differential, but it sure sounded like it was coming from the engine bay. Of course, I had to be driving the car under acceleration to hear it, so I could never pinpoint it for sure.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If the Check Engine light is coming on, what code is being left in the computer? They should be able to pull the code and then they'd know what the problem is. If it isn't retaining the codes, I agree with Hypov that it may be an ECU issue.

    -mike
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    The more i think about it the more i think that the ECU is the issue. The first time i took it in, it was a immobilizer code that came out, the most recent time it was a code associated with the Idle Control Module. Do you guys think that swapping out the ECU would be a failsafe repair? I'm wondering if i should ask them to swap it out to be sure that the problem is remedied.
  • cob1cob1 Member Posts: 10
    Would any wheels work as long as they are 5/100? I also just bought a 2002 WRX. Even fully stock it is scary fast. Love it.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Swapping out the ECU would be something you have to discuss with the Service Mgr. and SOA, since the vehicle is still under warranty. Work on getting a loaner while they test out the car.

    Work with them, and most of all, be cool, calm and patient. :)

    My ECU replacement cost me $680 and change, labor not included. Out of warranty.

    -Dave
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    5x100 is the bolt pattern the offset should be 48-53mm

    -mike
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    I mentioned the ECU and he said it would fix the problem but he's pretty sure the issue is a relay of some kind that they replaced. They have a diagnostic computer hooked up and are going to do some test-driving tomorrow to see if they find any hickups.

    They hooked me up with a 2007 Forester to cruise around in while the repairs are being done. Its a Forester Sport and a pretty fun little rig. Pretty punchy for a naturally aspirated 4cyl. Not quite as quick as my Outback 2.5XT though.

    Has anyone test driven the 08 Forester XT?
  • cob1cob1 Member Posts: 10
    Great. Thanks.

    -Clem
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    My Subaru Impreza WRX stereo broke recently. I have seen '06 WRX stereos being sold, used and cheap on the web. Is this an easy swap to do?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Should be plug and play.

    -mike
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    So get this... the were test driving my Outback with the diagnostic computer hooked up and the car shut-down again. They were able to get a freeze frame of the ECU during the shut-down and figured out that two sensors in the throttle mechanism were faulty. They swapped them out and test drove the car again... another shut-down!

    It was Halloween... perhaps its haunted?

    So the service tech is totally stumped and sent all the info to Subaru of America who is trying to solve the mystery of the Outrageous Outback.

    Last I heard, SOA said they've never seen this issue before. Lucky me. Now what?
  • mdshatmdshat Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2000 subaru legacy outback and in the last week i've been having a recurring problems while trying to accelerate. when i am driving at 40mph or below it drops in rpms and will refuse to accelerate then when i push on the gas more it will skip a bit and accelerate as normal. this doesnt happen all the time. also sometimes it will seem to sputter.

    ive read other discussions on this forum that seem similar to my problem, and i came to the conclusion that it may be the fuel injector, my dad also suggested that that may be the problem. last night i purchased a fuel system cleaner so i'm just waiting for it to do its job to see if thats the problem. if anyone has any suggestions as to what the problem might be that would be great.
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    That sounds like a fuel filter to me... I'd start there, swap it out for $15 rather than tear everything apart. See if that does the trick.
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    That is what I thought
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Starting to look more and more to be the ECU.
    A bad ECU will send the Techs on a wild goose chase.

    My case:
    Engine startles and hesitates, at first. No CEL.
    When CEL finally shows up, flashing and then steady,
    the code was misfire on all four cylinders.
    By that time, the engine will stall anywhere anytime after 40+ miles of driving.

    Changed the plugs. No change.
    Code still showing misfire all four.

    Tried changing relay. No change.
    Put old relay back.

    Diagnosed with computer and it showed that engine is running lean but code still showing misfire all 4. Tried swapping O2 sensor. No change. Put old one back.

    Stuck an ECU from another car. Everything back to normal.
    Ordered new ECU. Good as new since then.
  • snowbrom21snowbrom21 Member Posts: 21
    I think you're right because i was able to find out which codes were shown the first time and they don't match the codes that are showing after the most recent shut-downs. Seems like the ECU is screwed up and just spitting out random codes as its sputters out.

    I'm sure that they'll determine the best course of action is an ECU swap. I don't think there's much else they can do.

    I'll be sure to keep this message board posted in case anyone runs into the same problem in the future.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I hope someone someone could offer feedback if they have the same issue. 06 outback 2.5i auto w/7,900 miles. In one year the coolant level in resevoir tank has gone from full to low mark and I've added a bit of coolant in between. The level is check when car is "cold". What is "normal" coolant consumption? Should I ever have to add any? No coolant on floor, think it might be internal. Taking it to dealer today, to have them check for coolant in oil and a pressurization test. From day one, I've noticed the car when stopped at light on a hill,step on gas and it hesitates as if to stall but doesn't, also does it on flat surfaces sometimes,tough to describe. Service manager took it for test drive w/me and said couldn't feel anything. Quite frustrating when you know it's not normal,should I keep pursuing until they find it? They didn't run diagnostics on it. This is 3rd subie (1st outback) the others never did this. Thank you very much.
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    In some earlier Legacys (like my old 1997) there were problems with the engine knock sensor. Replacement of the sensor and/or the bonding of the sensor to the block was the fix for the hesitation.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I agree with mike.

    It was very easy on my 98 Forester.

    On our 02 Legacy is was a bit harder because you need a very long screw driver to remove one bolt in the back, but the Impreza is more like the Forester.
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