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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yes, when we were at SOA last week, they explained how they help to vent engine heat and that through their testing they actually dropped temps significantly and help air flow over the IC better.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • subforussubforus Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have experience like this-when slowing to stop, our 2001 forester S will give a shake and the engine shuts off. Starts up fine and we're good to go the rest of the trip. Not everytime, but seems to be within 3 miles from starting out. My wife had it happen 3 days in a row at the same intersection. After my mechanic cleaned out the throttle body, she had it almost die again and the next day I had a similar experiance: had driven 190 miles, let the car sit 5 hours, and within 3 miles of starting out, it tried to die while I slowed to stop. Car has 144,000 miles approx, automatic, no codes logged or check engine light until that last one, Autozone checked-catalytic converter function below normal or something like that....tried to do it again this morning, within about three miles of taking off. Outside temp has been between 30 and 50 degrees through all this. Seems to run great other than this!
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Member Posts: 72
    I've read most of the head gasket and coolant leaking messages, but wanted to post my current problem.

    A couple weeks ago I had the dealer change my timing belt and replace the tensioner, which was starting to sound like the bearings were failing. My 2002 OBW has around 99,000 miles on it. Now this past weekend coolant has started to drip from the underside of the engine. I know it started on friday because I could not have missed it. Too much smoke/steam (not oil smoke) when I stopped. I'm not as familiar with the engine layout as I should be, so I'll describe it. I could not see anything leaking while looking down on the engine or from underneath where the oil filter is. It has be be leaking from the "rear" of the engine, on the bottom. That's where I can see the drips coming from. Also dripping onto the exhaust and evaporating. When the engine is hot, it drips around 1 drop per second.

    I brought it in to the dealer, who has been good with service so far. Is it possible that they caused this when they changed the timing belt? I like to be educated when I talk to them, maybe that's why they've been good on service with me so far.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    I have a feeling that this problem is related to the Mass Airflow Sensor. I had a '96 Outback that would do this as well - never threw a code. After wasting a couple hundred dollars at various shops and no progress, the last guy suggested the MAS on a hunch. After a few more stalls, I finally decided to give it a try - found a used one for fairly cheap, threw it in, and never had it stall again.

    Good luck solving it.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    As much as I am not a believer in coincidence when problems arise immediately after service, if the gaskets are truly leaking from the rear then the service should not have anything to do with the problem you are now having. As a 2002 under 100,000 miles, the external head gasket leak should be covered under warranty.

    Contact 1-800-SUBARU3 and address it with them.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Member Posts: 72
    It's my understanding that my car was not a part of the recall. I never received the notification. I purchased the car in December of 2002, so they may have taken care of it by then.

    Spoke to the dealer and they confirmed that it's the driver's side head gasket. they've opened a case with Subaru and have told me that they will take my side since they know me and my car (and my father bought a subaru there before I bought mine).

    at this point, what is the chance that subaru will help out with the cost and what else can I do to push it along? I will call the 1-800-subaru3 number when I get home to give a little more heat to the situation.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Well, considering it is an external HG leak, the same as that covered by the "recall," they will possibly cover part or all of it since you are still within the arbitrary 100,000-mile limit they set for the involved cars. Be nice, explain the situation, etc. FWIW, there were many thousands of cars manufactured prior to the included recall dates affected by the same head gasket issues, but Subaru never owned up to the deficiency there. Many disgruntled (non-repeat) owners were the result. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Member Posts: 72
    Customer service was nice, and so was I. I opened up a case and referred them to my dealer, who also contacted subaru about it. Hopefully the 2 of us together will get some resolution. I haven't heard back yet.

    Not that any time is a good time for this to happen, but it could hardly have been worse timing. My wife is 8 months pregnant with our first. We have all kinds of classes and Dr appointments this week. Her shower is this weekend. We're getting hit with a winter storm tonight. and our AWD is down for the count. :( If this had happened next week, she would be off for winter break (teacher) and we would only need 1 car.

    I know that someone from Subaru at lease used to participate here. Do they still watch these boards? Just wondering if there's another avenue that I can use to put pressure on Subaru?
  • thepdmmthepdmm Member Posts: 82
    Thanks. Just can't deal with stuff that doesn't do anything on a car.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    How deep can Outbacks go into water before Subaru considers it abusive and voids the vehicle warranty? I'm guessing no more than the depth of the ground clearance of the vehicle, and then, not for long.

    By comparison, The Land Rover folks (who were strangely silenced as soon as I told them I was comparing their LR2 to an outback :confuse: ), claim their LR2 can handle 22" or so deep water without problems.
    However, Land Rover also do not say whether or not this dunk and drive will void their warranty.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Any car that is driven through water higher than the wheel bearings for any length of time should have them re-packed if they are re-packable, if not, they should be replaced.

    As for a specific height? There is no limit, however if you suck in water to your intake and hydrolock your engine, don't expect any manufacturer LR or Subaru to cover the repair costs. Or to pay to replace anything like a MAF/MAP that may have been damaged by the water.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • subforussubforus Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip. It would beat having to warm up five or ten minutes before leaving, which we never had to do before this started...
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Good point about the wheel bearings. I doubt the floorpan is watertight either.

    As for LR2, I can just see somebody drive in to 21 inches of water only to see leaks in floorboard, etc. pouring water into the cabin, BCM and all the electronics.
    Like you said, that would void the warranty for sure.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have to dig up some pics of my Isuzu Trooper where I drove through mud-holes with muddy water pouring over the hood and halfway up the doors. Never had a leak or ingested any water.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    At a Jeep Jamboree I watched and admired as a Grand Cherokee Orvis Edition (the priciest one) drove through a deep water crossing.

    Very impressive.

    Then I watched as the owner opened the doors and muddy water poured out.

    Not so impressive. :D

    I doubt the door seals will hold out water for long. Maybe a splash, but 22" deep water will flood that gorgeous interior.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... How deep can Outbacks go into water before Subaru considers it abusive and voids the vehicle warranty? I'm guessing no more than the depth of the ground clearance of the vehicle, and then, not for long."

    This Forester looks in as deep as the floorboards:
    http://photofile.ru/photo/stalwork/2094433/large/34282883.jpg
    And this one looks deeper than that, but notice the snorkel:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcbpJL0yfm4&feature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vL8nMjaGWw&feature=related
    But no snorkel on this one making the same trip:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gy4Z2ZQ8kI4&feature=related
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    The original Jeeps and LRs don't have gorgeous interiors.
    I do recall, at least on the "original" LRs, there are holes on the floor pan to take on and drain water so the LRs won't get floaty in deep waters.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, I've seen those holes on Wranglers, too.

    It's funny how they took the outdoorsy image and took it way upscale, which is pretty much incompatible with the muddy trails it was originally intended for.

    Ruin that gorgeous wool carpeting! :D
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Direct from Subaru when I asked the water depth question (slightly edited to keep space reasonable):

    "We cannot provide you with an exact depth of water that would cause problems to a Subaru Outback or Forester vehicle and could affect the warranties on the vehicle."

    "A Subaru vehicle is neither a conventional off-road vehicle nor an all terrain vehicle. It is a passenger car designed primarily for on-road use. However, both the Outback and Forester models are equipped with an AWD System and have increased ground clearance, which allows for some off-road usage. "

    "Drive slowly and completely through the stream. The water should be shallow enough that it does not reach the vehicle's undercarriage. Water entering the engine air intake or the exhaust pipe or water splashing onto electrical parts may damage your vehicle and may cause it to stall."

    "Ground clearance specs for 2008 Forester models:
    8.1 inches - Forester 2.5X models
    7.9 inches - Forester 2.5XT models

    Ground clearance specs for 2008 Outback Wagons:
    8.4 inches - Outback 2.5i and 3.0R Wagons
    8.7 inches - Outback 2.5XT Wagons."

    So, my guess is as long as you don't go deeper than their ground clearance, you are probably all right.
    No fording rivers with these! :blush:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Just for you, Kurt... ;)

    Mine was fine after this. In fact we did this Pine Barrens fun run in 2001, the weekend after 9/11, and I kept that Forester for 6 more years without any problems.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Yeah, I went through many a Spring parking lot puddle that was 7-8" deep and at least that large with my '96 Outback. Never had any problems with it that could be attributed to my enjoyment of Fairbanks' spring-time perks. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    :D

    We drove through at speed, though, that splashes up a lot of water.

    A guy with a Subaru XT6 sucked water in his intake and it stalled the engine. They actually fixed it on the spot - remove the plugs, spray in WD40, run the starter to evaculate the water. Good as new.

    He blew a clutch later in the day.

    So 4" of clearance was not enough, 7.5" was enough. ;)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    So 4" of clearance was not enough; 7.5" was enough.

    Hahah, yeah, it makes a big difference. I cannot remember what that '96 had... 6-something I think. I always punch the puddles at 15-20 - water and mud everywhere. Fun stuff.

    My van has 5" of clearance, but I will not let that stop me this spring. :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The XT6 did have an aftermarket intake that was low-mounted. That guy was nuts, he should have had a snorkel!
  • wgould10wgould10 Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem with my 05 outback each year. Nothing worked. Letting the pump run- little effect if any. The problem was limited to Dec-April in Michigan. Subaru claimed that it was bad gas, but there was little difference from one gas station to the next.

    My solution: I moved from MI to CT. I haven't had the problem all year. Last year in MI I switched to filling up at a busy gas station and I began running premium. It was much better, but still happened occasionally. My understanding is that MI requires a slightly different gasoline formulation in the winter vs the summer. CT may not.

    After trying everything, I believe the problem is with the car and is in the electrical system. The issue happened most exclusively when the car was washed or run on wet roads. CT doesn't get any snow near the coast so I am always on dry roads these days. It happened once after I washed the car and put it in the garage wet. Thus, if the problem is spark when wet that would explain why a different gas formulation (with perhaps less ignitability) would effect the ability to start cold as well as the switch to premium fuel, and the issue with water.

    Good luck.
  • wgould10wgould10 Member Posts: 4
    I have a rotational noise coming from the rear wheel/axle area that is wheel speed dependent. It sounds like a large rock is wedged in one of the tires, but the tires are new and clean. I took it in for my free wheel rotation last weekend and the mechanic said he heard the sound when driving it, but not when it was on the lift. He was able to feel a shudder in the ball joint area which he said is commonly the problem when hearing this sound while driving. However, he felt the same shudder at the same time from both rear wheels. So, he didn't feel it was a ball joint, but possibly something in the drivetrain.

    Any suggestions as to what it might be?
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    thnx for pic, ateixeria.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    I keep reading articles in C&D and other places complaining about Subarus' Turbo lag, and have experienced it myself. Unfortunately, it's a real turn off to what is in many ways a likeable vehicle

    What, if anything, can be done to minimize Subaru Turbo Lag?

    Or do we have to wait for Direct Injection from Subaru to fix this glitch?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Wow, there is really not much lag at all, at least as far as turbos go. Compared to a bigger NA motor, yeah there's lag, but really in the grand scheme of things there isn't much. If you drive it like a pansy, it's just a 2.5L 165hpish engine pushing a 3400lb+ car. If you drive it agressively, there is no lag....

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I ran my 2000 Forester through a flooded section of road and I felt the vehicle rock a little as I went through. The front license plate bent as a result of the force of the water. This happened three or four years ago. It's a great vehicle is all I can say. Now if I can just fix that compression problem.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd say about an 80% chance that is a wheel bearing.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes, there is a fix: buy a manual transmission. :D

    If you have an auto, and stab the gas, the throttle-by-wire first interprets your input, then sends a signal to the ECU to acceleration, which then sends a signal to the auto trans to shift down, which then shifts, which then has to build a load before the turbo will spool, which then spools the turbo, which then boosts the engine.

    There's your delay.

    With a manual the process is a whole lot quicker. Shift down and hit the gas: bye-bye.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I dirve in city traffic all the time, live in manhattan. Yeah there is a bit of lag, but not any more lag than any other turbo i've driven. Mine is a MT also.

    I'm looking forward to the 3.6L engine in the next itteration to see how that does :)

    -mike
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    The '08 Outback XT I drove in city traffic was a bucking bronco thanks to lag and auto trans = No fun at all.
    Sounds like Rowing a manual and keeping engine above 4K would fix that, but sorry, for me that's also no fun in heavy traffic.

    Now on the track, hi reving + manual = fun :shades: No track to work here though, save the railed TRIMAX one.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Yes, the OB XT auto has noticeable turbo lag. But as a frame of reference, you should go test drive an Acrua RDX. Now THAT is turbo lag. You press the gas and NOTHING happens. 1-2 seconds later - VROOOOOM! It's downright dangerous.
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Turbo in full boost + city traffic = crash

    Exactly why I bought an Outback 3.0R instead of the GT wagon. Though it would have been nice to have had the better brakes and lower ride height of the GT.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    What juice said.
    It wasn't turbo lag you'd experienced city driving. It's auto transmission lag.
    Stumping on the gas pedal compounds the lag.

    Turbo in full boost + city traffic = crash

    -Dave
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    the '04 malibu maxx I have has drive by wire throttle and 4 speed auto. It will respond anywhere from 0.5 to 1 second from a throttle input. Minimal lag, though engine runs out of air at high revs (I only get to that on freeway passing).

    The outback auto's not the only sluggish one out there - the '08 Rav4 AWD proved only marginally better, and it had a V6. But at least it doesn't surge in city traffic.

    I've read twin-screw turbos have much less lag, but Subaru ain't got none yet :sick:
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Sounds like a mix up between AT drivetrain lag/surge and turbo lag/surge.
    Having a twin-scroll may minimize the AT lag, but probably not the turbo surge.

    As to surging. If you're referring to turbo surge, the number one no-no with driving an AT turbocharged in city traffic is feeding more gas to get over the AT lag. More gas higher rev. The beast awakens.

    Remedy:
    1. Drive a NA engine with good displacement.
    2. Change driver type.
    3. Tune engine to driver liking.

    I did 2 and 3 with my '03 WRX 4EAT. To date, no city traffic complains or white knuckle situation. :D

    -Dave
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Did Subaru actually change the Outback Auto trans shift points early '08?
    I remember reading on another forum... :confuse:
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    didn't the JDM legacy turbos have twin scroll??
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Certain models do. Usually special WRXs.
  • psfod3psfod3 Member Posts: 63
    About one month ago the check engine light on my 03 Forester went on. The code issued showed that I needed a new catalytic converter. Now one month later and three thousand miles more the light is still on and the car is riding with no problems. I have 166000 k miles on the car. What is the downfall of not fixing this situation until I have a driving problem?
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    The code issued showed that I needed a new catalytic converter. Now one month later and three thousand miles more the light is still on and the car is riding with no problems. I have 166000 k miles on the car. What is the downfall of not fixing this situation until I have a driving problem?

    If you have a required emission inspection you will fail the test with such an indication. In addition your fuel economy may degrade if the cat is plugging.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Get or borrow a scanner and reset the code. See if it comes back.

    If the light starts blinking, it's a more serious problem that you have to fix ASAP. A solid light is a warning, though I agree the cat may get plugged up and the engine could stall if ignored indefinitely.
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    The door gasket on my son's '02 Forester froze to the frame and pulled away when he opened the door. I was able to get the gasket back on the "T" clips, but several of the small holes in the gasket for inserting the clip split when the gasket stuck to the frame. I suspect that the T clips will no longer hold as the holes are now too large.

    Other than replacing the whole gasket, is there a fix (sealant/glue?) that anyone can recommend to repair those small holes

    Thanks
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    If holes in the weatherstripping fit reasonably flush against metal when T-clips are inserted into frame (i.e., they are not exposed to a lot of water), you could use "krazy glue_ type" adhesive, which works amazingly well on rubber.

    Without actually seeing what is going on, my guess would be ---

    - and there's no guarantee offered or responsibility taken for this suggestion -

    Insert the clip back into the weather strip, then use the "krazy glue" on the rubber edges that split, and pinch the weatherstrip together so the edges close back together and around the clip.
    Hold for about 10 - 20 seconds and then release, and the holes should be well closed and the t-clips held in place again.
    Wait at least 2 - 5 minutes for the glue to thoroughly dry before remounting the weatherstrip.

    Be very careful not to touch the glue itself or it will weld the rubber stripping or t-clip to your fingers. To be safe, keep some nail polish remover or acetone handy as that will dissolve the glue (but don't let removers touch the paint !! )

    Good luck! ;)
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    Thanks,
    I had not thought about krazy glue at all. The worst that can happen is that it wont work and I will end up getting a door gasket so it is worth a try
  • abewster92abewster92 Member Posts: 3
    my 1993 subaru impreza's interior lights just stopped working all of the sudden. ALL of the lights on the inside stopped this includes the console lights and the instrumant panel lights... i have checked the fuses and none of them are burnt out... what do i do??? :confuse:
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Find the fuse that serves the interior lights and change it anyway. They can be bad & not show it visually. Cheapest troubleshootinig tip I can give you.

    Cheers!
    Paul
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