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Not every Subaru specialist (in Seattle, at least) can be trusted.
took it back to the dealer--they said it was the turbo--thank goodness for the warranty..they replaced that too--it wasn't the turbo--then the said it was the head gasket--changed that--still not working--now, they are working on get parts--they are 'back ordered, but they are being secretive--Great I'm getting a whole new car at their expense--but it has been at the dealership --4 of the 5 last weeks...what should I do...what if they can;t fix it?
MNSteve
Cheers!
Paul
-mike
-mike
"there was a small possibility of an “Engine Knocking Noise” caused by a contamination in the area of the connecting rod big end journal at very low mileage/time in service."
The bulletin goes on to say that the engine oil of the VIN - identified units must be tested for copper contamination. If there is excessive copper in the oil, the engine is damaged and an E-QMR is to be issued.
I wonder if I have to ask, or if Subaru will ask me, to get my engine inspected? :confuse:
Cheers!
Paul
It's what I use in the gearbox.
Jim
Would like to sollicit the advice of the resident experts here. I have a 2000 OB Ltd wagon. Discovered this morning that the front sunroof no longer opens. However, when I press the sunroof switch, I hear the electric motor run. The rear sunroof opens up fine. Also, after trying to open the front sunroof by pushing the sunroof switch, I can push it open by hand. The electric motor then does close it when I push 'close' on the sunroof switch.
So, I'm thinking there is some gear/belt/etc that is not pushing the front sunroof open. I think the motor, etc., still works properly. However, where do I start to fix this? Anybody any experience with this part of the car? Would very much appreciate your input. Thanks!!!
If you'd feel better, call 800-SUBARU3 and ask that they conduct the test on your engine.
Steve
I had the fuel injectors cleaned at an Oil Changers & at first glance, I would say the problem may be gone! However, the check engine light came on while they were doing the service.
Will let you know more after I drive it for a few days.
Steve
Varies by state. Your profile says you're in NY, which does have a lemon law. Here it is from the NY attorney general:
http://www.oag.state.ny.us/consumer/cars/newcarlemon.pdf
However, your '06 is two years old and has nearly 50k miles, so it's well beyond the new car limit of 18k miles, if I'm reading the law correctly.
First thing to do anyway is to open a file with Subaru Customer Service at 1-800-782-2783.
Hope all is well with you. Been a long time. The 2001 Black Beaner is still running great at 117K miles - still tight, smooth and reliable.
Had a fogging problem last month and noticed the air conditioning seemed weak. Brought it to my Subaru shop and they cleaned out debris in the fan air path for $200. The fan was more powerful, but it was too cold to see if the air was working. Now with warmer weather, I know it didn't help.
I had a 96 Accord that I re-charged myself using a $8 can. Can I do the same with the 01 V6 Outback or do I have to go to the shop for a professional charge?
Thanks!
Ralph
The A/C went out on my 91 Escort and cost me $700.
That's more than the option cost when the car was new - it was a $490 option.
Did you check scoobymods?
Thanks,
Ralph
Dear John:
Thank you for contacting Subaru of America, Inc. I am sorry to hear of your concerns with your 2004 Subaru Impreza Wagon. According to our records, your concern is being handled by our representative Marisol Crespo under Case # . She would like to have some documentation from you of the vehicle service history. You may fax this information to her at F: 856-488-3016. I will let Marisol know that you have emailed us, and your emails will be attached to the case. Best Wishes.
Grant Noble
Subaru of America, Inc.
Customer/Dealer Services Department
-----------------------------------------------------------
YOUR ORIGINAL MAIL:
I truly hope when I go to the Subaru dealership in my area that I get it resolved but from all I've and tried to fix it so far sound like the head gasket will be what is the problem.No Subaru should ever have these kind of problems before 100,000 miles.Bubbling water in reserve tank,smell of anti-freeze,sudden up downs of temperature gauge since yesterday.The real problem even if you get the car fixed at your cost will be me getting to work.I work for myself and only get paid when I work and without a car to drive well and won't make any money to pay bills.I know that head gasket repairs take a long time to do but also know that the repairs don't seem to last long from what the websites I've read since Subaru doesn't generally remove engine to get a good seal on new head gasket.I love the style and handling of Subaru's but I hope to have you resolve this by letting me use the
WWP-99 repair notice.I have saved and printed many many stories of the 2.5I HG failures.My biggest concern is even if it's repaired how long will it last before goes again.There have to be a better way to fix this problem.I just can't see after 100 years of building cars how this stuff still happening.If I had the money I would buy your knew electric car you sell in Japan in a heartbeat since that HG would never be a thing to worry about.I saved for years to get a Subaru since I know they had the best AWD in the world and had a great car.Sorry had to sent three e-mails but couldn't fit it all in.
First name:
Last name:
I have found site after site all dealing with the Subaru engine problem with Head Gasket failure on the 2.5 engine.Do you really think any reasonable person won't see the pattern of this problem.That so called conditioner is nothing more then leak seal.Why would a Subaru need to have the so called conditioner add again and again unless they knew that had problems with their engine design on the 2.5.The right thing to do is simple replace the engine with a 2.2 that doesn't have this problem instead of making the same 2.5 over again with the same problems.I have read so many reports of HG failures even after the repair was done a short time later.I know for a fact the engine doesn't cost you more then $500 to produce.I cannot believe that it makes sense to you to lose multiple costumers that will never buy a Subaru again considering the low cost to you to fix the problem.The simple thing would be send me a letter with notice of intend as to replacing my engine at no cost to me with an engine without this flaw.The 2.0L and the 2.2L all seem to have a good track record but the 2.5L has a horrible design flaw to have this happen over and over again since the start of 99 on.Yes I've heard you say oh we fixed that problem and it doesn't exist in the 2004 model.well guess what it does exist.The 99-2004 model use the same engine and the same exact part number for a Head Gasket kit.If all the parts for a head gasket repair are the same then the engine on a 1999-2004 are going to have the same problems.I have never in all the years of driving cars seen a more obvious factory defect but you decide that the WWP-99 doesn't apply to the 2004.I have talked to more then a few mechanics from different shops and a few ex-subaru mechanics and they all say same thing.The failure rate is too high to be just something by accident.However does the math at Subaru doesn't know how to add.The Subaru cost on average between 17,000-up and you feel that you would rather lose a few hundred dollars on a new engine replacement which is all it really cost you for it.Aluminum engines weren't really a good idea to begin with.Yes much lighter but with a higher failure rate due to the temperature problems.Just so you know not all people out here in the real world can't see the real problem you refuse to fix properly.Here's a free bit of advise.First do what's right not what's cheaper for you to do.Customer loyalty is worth it's weight in Gold.If you keep hiding behind your words of "oh sorry that model doesn't have that problem".I can guarantee the problem will just keep losing clients in a time that your product has not keep up with the times.
These are physically manufactured products and as such there is always a chance there is a failure.
I'm still not sure what kind of "warning" you wanted that your engine blew up!
-mike
Good? Bad?
FYI I asked Subaru directly if Synthetics could be used. This is their response - all the caps are theirs :surprise: :
"As for the use of synthetic oil, this is your decision. Our Technical Services
Department advised that if you do decide to use synthetic oil, that you always use
it because your engine will become accustomed to it. The same goes if you decide
to use 'regular' oil.
We recommend that you first change the oil in your vehicle at 3,750 miles or 4 months,
whichever comes first. We STRONGLY recommend that you at least wait until the break-in
period of 1,000 miles is surpassed, which I see you have done!
The break-in period of the engine requires that a given amount of friction exists
between components. The piston rings need to rub against the cylinder wall to break-in
or finely tune the machine mating between the two metal parts. To properly seat
all mechanical components, a certain amount of friction is required between the
metal parts. Since synthetic oil has a lower friction rating than regular oil, we
recommend that Subaru owners wait until after the 1,000 mile break-in period to
switch to synthetic engine oil.
Synthetic engine oils can be used in our engines if the user follows the engine
oil recommendations prescribed in the Owner's Manual. Subaru has not tested
the compatibility of all synthetic oils with engine seals, but the petroleum industry
does adhere to standards for the refining process which meet Subaru requirements.
Subaru does not guarantee the performance of any brand of any engine oil.
Engine Oil Guidelines: - only use engine oil that meets or exceeds the API classification
designated in the Owner's Manual for the vehicle - only use engine oil that
meets the VISCOSITY requirements for the ambient temperatures under which the vehicle
will be operated as outlined in the Owner's Manual - THE ENGINE OIL MUST BE
CHANGED AT THE INTERVALS SPECIFIED IN THE WARRANTY AND MAINTENANCE BOOKLET FOR THE
VEHICLE. SOME SYNTHETIC OIL REFINERS RECOMMEND EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. SUBARU
DOES NOT RECOMMEND ANY DEVIATION FROM THE SPECIFIED INTERVALS IN THE OWNER'S
MANUAL.
So it looks like Synthetic is OK provided they "follow the rules" above.
Actually it gets VERY expensive to swap engine sizes. If you are going to swap you'd do a WRX motor swap into an NA car, but that runs in the $10,000 price range to do it correctly.
I'd look for a junk yard motor of the same year to swap in, would cost about $1000 in labor to do that. (maybe less)
-mike
I run Amsoil full Syntetic (25k change interval oil) in my Legacy GT. I usually do my changes every 7k miles give or take 2 or 3k. The reason you can't do synthetic later on in engine life is that the build up from non synthetic will get washed away when you change to synthetic, this then puts the engine oil in contact with a portion of the gaskets that are now dried out (from lack of oil seeping to it) and they leak. As for going back to non-synthetic, that's not usually a problem, the "getting used to it" is a line of BS IMO.
-mike
This was an issue with the Chevy Malibu, where impact wrench tightening routinely caused rotor warpage and was a real pain to deal with.
Cheers!
Paul
-mike
If over torqued, yeah they'll warp, however I put mine on with 100 ft. lbs and routinely drive on-track with my LGT and haven't warped the stock rotors in 57k miles so far.
With that said, this past weekend I was up at Pocono Raceway running the North Course and did 2 35 min sessions back to back with the LGT Wagon, held my own in the Instructor/Advanced/Race group. This is a bone stock 05 LGT Wagon 5MT w/SPT Exhaust, Hawk HPs Pads (not even HP+), ATE Superblue Fluid, and Take-off tires from a Stock Evo (245-45-17 Yoko A046 Tires).
-mike
100 ft-lbs is not too bad. I'm talking about the impact-wrench happy mechanics who torque lug nuts sometimes to 120-130. I guess I've become very weary of these situations, and whenever someone removes and then reinstalls the wheels on any of my cars, I retorque them manually as soon as I get home. Just like the specs say - 76 ft. lbs, and I do it in three passes 56-66-76.
Since I started doing that about four years ago, all front end vibration and rotor problems went away.
I agree most shops impacts will cause issues cause they not only over-tighten they don't hand thread them on.
-mike
I doubt that. I was an Amsoil dealer for 5 years, and have changed back and forth on high-mileage cars (albeit well-maintained). Never heard that warning or experienced any problems. Also have mixed regular and synth oils by topping up one with the other. Amsoil's website has a "myth" page that ought to be read.
-mike
2 electrical questions: Recently left turn signal flashed extremely quickly. Continued to do so after I pushed turn indicator to right then left. This 'effect' went away after a couple of days. What gives? Next, my cell phone charger for car won't charge anymore. Same charger works in other cars. (this one plugs into lighter receptacle). Fuses or the receptacle?
Off and on for past 2 months, my check engine light goes on then off. Sometimes if
I vent the gas door it goes away after a couple of days. Many times, if it is hot (anything over 65 F in Oregon), it will go on. Sensor bad? And how to check? Could it be related to E10 requirement in Oregon?
Service people want to do 90,000 mile maintenance. Because I had new clutch plate done, all belts are replaced. Now want to do rest. But $150 for replacing
spark plugs? And over $600 for the rest?
Had oil change done today. Forgot to ask about checking the warning light. Now service guy says it will cost $68 just to check the output. Am I getting screwed?
Finally, he says that my CV seals are cracked and need to be replaced right away. For $400?
Forester #1: 2004 X 5-speed ~80,000 miles
The car lurches or bucks at almost any speed. Sometimes it’s minor and just feels like I abruptly took my foot off the gas pedal for a second. Other times, it feels like it’s going to stall, but it never does. It used to do this right after I filled the tank with gas. If I stopped the car and restarted it, the problem went away. Then it stopped doing it altogether for a while. Now it does it all the time. The CEL is not on. I will be taking it into the dealer later this week, but I was hoping to get some possible ideas first. Any thoughts?
Forester #2 2005 X automatic ~57,000 miles
Dealer #1 says struts are leaking and the car needs new struts all the way around to the tune of $1,100. Dealer #2 says they’re fine and the car would ride and handle badly if they were bad. It rides and handles fine. Shop #3 (Midas) says the struts are indeed leaking, but they can’t find replacement struts anywhere in the city (Tucson). They also say struts never go bad on Subarus. What gives? Any thoughts?
For what it’s worth, the car pulled a 1,000 pound trailer on a 13,000 mile trip to Alaska and saw hundreds of miles or dirt road on the trip.
By the way, I posted some time ago about a problem I was having with Forester #1. The temp gauge would drop all the way to cold while driving down steep mountain grades with the transmission in 3rd or 4th gears to take advantage of engine braking. As soon as I hit the bottom of the grade, the temp gauge would immediately return to normal. A couple of weeks later the CEL came on, and the dealer replaced the catalytic converter and the problem went away. I don’t see how the two are related, but the problem is gone.
Thanks in advance for any and all ideas.
Tim
Struts on subies usually last about 80-100k miles give or take so you aren't too far out of that range, especially given the rough roads and trailering. 1100 is a bit much for struts for it. I'd go with KYB GR2 Struts that should be found for around $100/each max and about $300 to have em installed is around $700.
-mike
You may just want to reset the ECU if you haven't already.
There is also a high pitch whine at speeds over 40 miles but I was told by the dealership that it is normal for boxer engines.
Thanks in advance.
Saran.
It's a decade old, so if you haven't already, look to change things like the spark plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil, in that order.
The erratic behavior may be the ECU, though.