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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Also check for a vacum leak, on a car that old the hoses tend to get a little dried out.

    -mike
  • nova11nova11 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. Turns out that the plugs, plug wires and ignition coil are fine. Had the pretty worn hoses (and clamps) replaced. Problem is still there.

    One new symptom: Got stopped in place for 5 minutes in 90-something degree. The heat gauge went up for the first time ever - - - up close to H before I was able to move. Once going forward again, the gauge quickly returned to normal.

    Cold starts still no problem.

    Repeat hot starts are no problem. Re-starts after 10-30 minutes are erratic - often have to step on gas pedal which causes rpms to rise ( a couple of times to the degree that the car would go up to 20mph without more gas).

    Any more thoughts? My mechanic (good) is at a loss to figure out what to do next.
  • johnmccjohnmcc Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like what I had.Turns out to happen then get better radiator clogs then is breaks free and is ok for a while.Change the radiator.Don't put that stupid conditioner in it's just leak seal that only clogs up radiator in the long run.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    It is also one of the classic signs of a head gasket leak.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Could be your fuel pump is on its way out or some other fuel related issue. If the fuel lines are not fully pressurized, fuel injected engines are subject to a condition known as "heat soak" - low pressure in the fuel rail causes the fuel to boil under extreme heat. When you stop a hot engine, the fans stop and the temperature under the hood actually rises, which may lead to heat soak.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    (posted in the 'other' probs/solns board with no bites, so recasting here)

    The 99 LGT has developed a new one... this car has so much personality :)

    The best description I can provide is that it's a mechanical ticking sound, that is MPH related, not RPM oriented. Starts after a few minutes at freeway speeds, frequency varies with speed, then goes away as I slow to about 40. Sounds a bit like a variable-speed fan would if there was a clearance issue with one blade. It's just subtle enough that I can't tell where it's coming from, but just loud enough to be a bit annoying. Car drives fine/as usual. I'm thinking a CV joint/wheel bearing is trying to tell me something vs. (I hope it's not) the front transaxle.

    Turning the volume up in the meantime...

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Hey Soob Crew,

    I'm going through the motions now to purchase an `09 Legacy 2.5i SE. I've done my research over the last year or so (originally was after an `08 but once I learned VDC was standard on `09 I decided to wait), but I'm having a heck of a problem getting my trade-in, a 2000 Honda Civic LX Sedan Automatic Transmission, ready to be, well, traded in.

    My two options are to sell it to my cousin, who's just turning 16 and is in the market for a car, or two trade it in to the dealer.

    There are two mechanical issues going on with the car that I must get taken care of if I'm going to sell it within the family:
    1. The speedometer needle appears to be stuck at 20mph. This doesn't affect the transmission, and cruise control will hold a mileage above 20mph. Depressing the trip odometer reset button several times while the car is in motion will correct the issue and it remains functional until the next time you start the car up, where it immediately pegs itself back to 20mph, even in park. It was suggested that the speed sensor is operating properly because Cruise is holding a speed above 20 mph.

    While the speedometer is stuck at 20, the odometer and trip odometer do not function. After it begins working again, the odometer picks up to where it was prior to the stuck needle (in other words, if it's stuck and I drive 10 miles, when it starts working again, it doesn't add the 10 miles on, it starts at 0.1)

    I've been in a lot of conversations with the helpful people on the Honda forum, but I'm wondering if you've heard of anything familiar on this side of the forum.

    2. The compressor belt will intermittently squeak when the A/C compressor turns on. The squeak's severity depends on the actual RPM of the engine (between 1.5-2.5k RPM upshift, a squeak will be heard for 0.5-1.5 seconds depending on how fast I get out of the 2.5k RPM range) but only occurs with the A/C on and was told this is not a transmission issue. I recently had the belts changed - about two years ago - and it was suggested that this is a tensioner that is probably bad since those weren't replaced. I was also told that I can go ahead and let this fail because it'll only affect my A/C and not anything else, and after it does fail, to get it fixed.

    Thanks!

    Moderators: Please do not move this to the Honda Civic forum as the thread already exists. If you feel this thread is inappropriate for the forum, please delete my post.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    1. Your speedometer probably has gunk or dirt built up. I would suggest taking apart the gauge cluster and using a can of compressed air to clean things out.

    2. Try replacing the tensioner on the belt. They are not very expensive.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Thanks for the response. By taking apart the gauge cluster, you mean to unbolt the plastic housing from the interior of the vehicle, behind the steering wheel, right?
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Yes, you can try that, or, in the worst case you will need to pull out the actual gauges from the combination meter.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    I had a stuck speedometer on my old subie. Turned out, the needle had gotten bent or warped over time with the heat. The needle was actually sticking on the plastic "glass" that you view it through.

    The mechanic just heated up the needle a little (after removing it),not too much or you could melt it. Then he reshaped it to straight. Put it back on and I never had another problem.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The needle on my van's tach got stuck on the faceplate of the gauge itself.

    Pics here fwiw.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Ok. Having some trouble getting the black cosmetic bezel off from the bottom, investigating that, then trying the compressed air method described above. Still able to reset it and make it work by pushing odometer trip reset for 3 seconds, then letting go.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Well, some good news. I managed to get the bezel off finally, slid the plastic outer cover off the instruments. The back was sealed up pretty good, so rather than popping that thing open, I elected to spray the compressed air through the dials of the trip odometer, the odometer, and the speedometer needle.

    Upon first startup, it looked good, no jumping, just 0 mph. I'll try again when I go to work in a few hours and we'll see if it holds.

    Thanks for your recommendation, hopefully this is it.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Keep us posted - hopefully that will fix it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm thinking a CV joint/wheel bearing is trying to tell me something vs. (I hope it's not) the front transaxle.

    Sounds like classic CV joint issue. I'd start there and then possibly look at the bearing but you would here a more wop wop wop on the bearing rather than a clicking, although I have heard it clanking like a loose brake pad for the bearing before.

    -mike
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    It's a whirring, buzzing thing. Definitely wheel-speed dependent. No clanks at all.
    I was thinking CV too... sigh. Time for another trip to my favorite yellow-sign white-shirt come-a-running store (fellow northwesterners and west coasters will know)! :)

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Say hi to Les for me. :)
  • flyosflyos Member Posts: 8
    Hi everyone,

    I posted this on the Outback problems thread a few days ago but didn't get a reply, so I thought I'd try it here in this more-active thread. Any thoughts and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    First, the vitals: it's an '02 Outback 2.5 wagon, MT, 96K miles. As far as car maintenance goes, I'm pretty much a novice. I used to change my oil, air filter, plugs, etc on my previous cars, but have had the dealer do the work on the Subie.

    The issues:
    1) I tried to change the spark plugs yesterday and, after pulling #1 and #2, I saw a decent amt of oil on them. I've smelled some burning recently but I couldn't really tell if it was oil or something else - I guess it was oil. I did some quick searching on this thread and it's sounding like blown head gasket. It is critical that I replace it now, or can I wait about 10K when I have the timing belt replaced? For what it's worth, the car is running fine - normal acceleration, no CELs, etc.

    2) Given the tight spaces around the engine, how on earth do you pull the plugs on this car? I've had my dealer do it in the past, but decided to save some $$ this time and do it myself, but there was no way I could get a spark plug socket, extension bar and wrench near #3 and #4 (and #2 was really, really tight). Given that, I put the old plugs back in #1 and #2, rather than have mismatched plugs.

    3) I did manage to change the air filter - I'm not totally helpless! Added windshield washer fluid too (not to the air filter - I put the fluid in the right place)!

    Thanks!!!
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Sounds like symptom my WRX Wgn had.
    Clicking/Clacking like a playcard to bicycle spokes.

    -Dave
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    We own a 2001 Forester and 2003 Outback, both with the 2.5 engine. I've found the same issue with oil on the spark plugs. It is due to the rubber o-rings that go around the spark plug tubes in the valve cover. I've had to change them on every other tune-up, or about 60K miles, on both cars. I don't do the work myself, but take it to my regular, trusted mechanic. Not that big a deal, but definitely extra work and some additional $$.

    Regarding access to the spark plugs, I've watched my mechanic change them. He removes the washer fluid bottle and some other things to gain access to them, and uses several different extensions and u-joints on the extension.

    Be careful with the air filter. Make sure the tabs on the back of the housing fit properly into the slots on the other half of the housing, or you'll have air leaking in past the filter. The housing will clip back together even if it's not seated properly, so make sure to check.

    I hope this helps.

    Len
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Ok, speedometer isn't working again. Just going to bring it to the Honda dealer near my house, fix it, and split the cost with my cousin I'm selling it to.

    On a happier note: Tuesday = New `09 Legacy hopefully!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Didya get it?
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    I went to one of the two dealers within about 20 minutes of my condo. They both are basically offering us the same exact price, so I'm at the point where I'm just letting the two of them fight with each other.

    I haven't been back to either dealership, but every day I call the "other" dealer and get a little bit better of a price (not by much, we're talking $50 increments here), but eventually what it's going to come down to is the financing.

    I noticed on the Subaru website there's going to be new national incentives starting August 4th, and right now there's absolutely nothing for the 2009 Legacy. (Unfortunately there's no more 2008's and the dealer we originally went to lied to us about searching for one and said there weren't any `08's within 250 miles, but the other dealer we saw on Tuesday located one about 50 miles away.)

    I know that I'd prefer the 2009 because of a few reasons... It's a 2009 so the trade-in/resale value will be a "year" better, the VDC is standard (though the dealers both alluded to VDC not being "as important" as other brands because AWD is first and foremost), the better sound system (which I actually did not bother listening to - I wanted to hear the infamous Subie rumble rather than the radio, though I didn't find the `08 audio weak by any means.), it's just a bummer that the `08's are a steal with the 1000 cash back and 0.0% financing (which I was told I can get)...

    So, we're hoping that on the 4th we have at least SOME type of incentive to buy an `09 Legacy. If not, we'll still probably get one anyway.

    With the Honda, I finally went to the dealer (Coast Honda in Wall, NJ - they do fantastic service) and although there's a TSB about the speedometer, the fix they tried didn't work, and I'm replacing the speedometer head at about a price of $300, they also fixed the A/C squeaking sound (I was right, it was the tension in the compressor belt...) so my cousin will have it in the best order it can be. Thanks for all the comments & suggestions for troubleshooting.

    Only 2% holdbacks? Yuck.

    I don't understand how dealers that have an MSRP only about 1,000 above the invoice price that come right out off the bat and offer invoice price can make any money if they're making about 400 per car. I mean, I understand the theory behind volume, but there's got to be some type of quota system for bonus incentives (IE, SoA gives an extra $50 holdback if you sell 1-49 Subes in a month, but it becomes $100 if you sell 50-99, etc, etc.). As far as I know when I was in a financial pinch about a year ago that's how Hyundais worked, they were trying to sell me a brand new Elantra fully loaded for 12,000 out the door... But alas, no Boxer Engine and no AWD. I thought that the Sub dealer would have similarly "better" offers towards the end of the month since they had a quota, but perhaps not.

    Funny, though, that the new Legacy would put out less emissions than my Honda Civic! PZEV is a nice thing (and from what I understand 3 more horsepower and a better warranty!)

    Uhoh, I'm a Subaru fanboy for life now.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Eh, pay a grand more now you'll get it back in resale anyway. Get the 09 that you prefer.

    Good luck, I hope those incentives do appear for you. It is a last year model, so let's keep our fingers crossed for you.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Thanks! I just hope the dealer we go with actually has the Obsidian Black Pearl in stock so we don't have to go back again and get it. Either way - even if NO incentives come out, I'm no worse off by purchasing it next week.

    My Honda Civic is/was also the last of a major model design before an overhaul, and it's been extremely good to me. It seems like they get just about all the kinks out towards the end, then start the whole process again with a new look.

    Fingers crossed!

    Just bought some Subaru "gear' to go with the new car!
    image
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I see you are in NJ, I better see you at my shop in Kenilworth at some point! :) Even just to come hang and grab a slice of Buffalo Chicken Pizza and watch some road racing on the satellite dish!

    :)

    -mike
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Where's Kenilworth? I'm near Clifton (Exit 153)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    We are 2 min off exit 138 on the GSP.

    Kenilworth/Cranford/Rosell Park Area.

    We usually hang on Saturdays and Sundays and some evenings. Working on customers or our own cars, more shooting the breeze than work sometimes. :)

    -mike
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Oh yeah. I've been around that way to visit inlaws, but not in a while. I used to live down by exit 90, but moved up north within the last year or two.

    I'll have to make the drive when I eventually need to do some brakes or something, I guess. I haven't changed motor oil in a few years, actually. Not since I owned a `90 Wrangler anyway, sold that in `00. Hopefully the Legacy will be more roomy inside than the Civic!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    We have a few custys who stop by for oil changes too. Most move over to Amsoil after 7k miles.

    :)

    -mike
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Yeah, I've never done the synthetic thing, mostly because there's no set "limit" on when to replace it and it's harder for me to justify the additional cost considering the way I drive my vehicles.

    One thing I'm reading up on now is the break-in period. I'm seeing some forum garbage floating around regarding different break-ins... Some say don't rev past 4,000, some say rev past 4,000 once you're 2/3 of the way through the break-in and this'll improve mileage, etc.

    First new car here, so, thoughts?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I like those but they resemble an Acura logo. :D
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Break-in is 1,000 miles, you can rev past 4,000 on occassion but not any hard accelerations. Don't use cruise control. Other than that you are good to go.

    For the Amsoil, I do 7500-10,000 mile oil changes on my cars or 1x a year whichever is first.

    -mike
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    If you drive alot along 78 and 95, get the clearbra.
    paisan can set you up. Get tints while at it.
    That would buy some good times to hang out at the garage :)

    -Dave
  • jdewlenjdewlen Member Posts: 1
    Were you ever able to get this problem resolved? I have a 2001 Outback that is experiencing the same problem -- the dealer calls it "slamming". I did a complete fluid and filter change a few months ago and it seemed to go away. But it happened again this weekend.
  • sept2martinsept2martin Member Posts: 28
    This is a new vehicle with 8000km. My dealer has been unable to address a transmission problem. I have had it to him 5 times for this. I am told that Tribecas are like this and there is nothing that can be done.
    Here is the issue: At cruising speed in automatic mode, in top gear, at about 2000 to 2200 rpm, there are repeated sensations as though the vehicle were "missing". It feels like a skip in the firing of a cylinder. I have been assured that there is no evidence for this and that the problem is in the transmission. The transmission has been "reprogrammed" over and over again without any improvement.
    It is most annoying, and unlike any car I have ever driven, and I have had many!!
    Likely my FIRST AND LAST SUBARU!! :mad: :lemon:
    Any one experience anything like this?
  • bethanndeebethanndee Member Posts: 6
    My Subaru hasn't done this, but my Saturn station wagon did it. I was sure it was the automatic transmission, but it turned out that it needed a new oxygen sensor, a new cooling system thermostat, and new spark plugs. (I had just PUT new spark plugs in about 6 months earlier, but one of them was still burned to a crisp.)

    So it was a cheap fix, and it runs great now. Not sure if any of this could be your problem, but I hope so!
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    You also might try different grades of fuel to see if that affects the missing.

    Subaru modified the Tribecas' engine for 2008 so it could burn regular fuel. However, its earlier engine incarnation wanted premium.
  • hamullerhamuller Member Posts: 11
    I recently read on the net that there have been soldering problems with the clocks on the early Foresters. I have a 2000 and the clock stopped working about a year ago. I read that if you can repair a bad solder joint it works as good as new again. Since I have some experience soldering I would like to give it a try but I don't know how to get the clock out. Any suggestions?
  • hamullerhamuller Member Posts: 11
    I recently had the rubber boot on the axle split and had to have it replaced. The Subaru dealer alerted me to the fact that the flange connecting the catalytic converter to the muffler was shot and leaking. They wanted $1004 to repair it!

    I had been smelling a burnt oil smell but I attributed it to grease from the broken rubber boot)

    I went to a local garage who suggested cutting out the flange and replacing it with a flexi connector. They did the job for $125. While I was happy about the cost savings I now wonder if this will effect me getting the car through inspection. The car seems to run much better now. Your thoughts?
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    It shouldn't affect inspection.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You should be fine.

    We had a 626 and the same thing happened, and I spent a similar amount.

    Later friends here told me about the solution you mentioned. I believe it's fairly common, mostly it saves a lot of labor on the job. I wish I'd done it.

    For the clock search for Peaty's instructions and photos on ScoobyMods.
  • lawsonprolawsonpro Member Posts: 1
    could someone post a few pictures of how to put the retaining clips back onto the throw out bearing.
  • hamullerhamuller Member Posts: 11
    Thanks, I've been worried about inspection.
  • wade8wade8 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,
    I own a 1999 Subaru Legacy Wagon (Brighton). Over a period of 2 to 3000Km a noise coming seamingly directly through the stick shift has gradually been getting louder. Sounds like a bearing noise to me. In neautral the sound is there but not as loud as when in gear even when clutch is disengaged. Same in all gears and reverse. Have taken it to mechanics to see about a diagnosis but they tell me what I already know. Is there a further specific diagnosis which could occur. I am very strapped for cash and need to run it for work. Checked Differential fluid and it looks perfect. Should I check drain plug magnet for a type of metal? Any advise would be appreciated. Thankyou for your time.
  • tanagertanager Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2004 Forester XT with 105K miles on it, and today I found out that my connecting rod is knocking into the block and that my engine is basically shot. I am devastated. I have had my share of problems with this car, but I love it, and this is disappointing beyond belief. I have been excessively diligent with the maintenance on this vehicle and I have all records to prove it. I bought it in 2006 and it had 58K miles on it then. I have put a lot of miles on this car in the last 2.5 years, but is there any reason why such an important component of the engine would go bad so soon when the car has been well taken care of? What on earth should I do? My mechanic estimates that a rebuilt engine will probably cost me about 3K.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sorry to hear that.

    That's the first I've heard of that sort of problem. What a freak occurence. Odd. The pistons on the 04 XT were forged, I believe, not sure about the con rods. The block was also exceedingly strong - they used the STI semi-closed deck block in 04 and 05 IIRC. 04-05 owners tease 06+ owners for not getting the same robust engine block. It was an inside joke of sorts.

    I'm shocked. :confuse:
  • tanagertanager Member Posts: 16
    Yes I am shocked too. And I just found out that a rebuilt engine is going to run me more like $4600. I am at a loss. Does anyone think I have any recourse with Subaru over this? I am planning on bringing it to my local dealer to see if they can offer any assistance, but I fear that's going to end up costing me even more in the long run.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Depends on the cause they diagnose, but even then you're out of warranty for it.

    See if they can find a wreck in a junk yard that was hit in the back, and swap engines.
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