Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

aatherton · October 2008

"... 2004 Forester XT with 105K miles... bought it in 2006 and it had 58K miles on it then... connecting rod is knocking into the block and that my engine is basically shot... I have been excessively diligent with the maintenance on this vehicle... Does anyone think I have any recourse with Subaru over this?"

Maybe the first owner abused the engine or was not so diligent about maintenance. I would not think Subaru can do much about a second hand car with 105K miles.

kurtamaxxxguy · October 2008

A scrap yard might be good place to get new engine parts. You might contact those in the NorthWest part of the country as there are many more Subarus up here than most places.

toboggan · October 2008

The noise could be coming from the gearshift mechanism. My '98 OBW shift lever mechanism "rattles" in second and 4th gears. At first I couldn't hear it but it has slowly gotten noisier. But when I rest my hand on the shift lever, the noise "goes away".

MNSteve

tanager · October 2008

Thanks for the suggestions. I will see what the dealer says tomorrow when I get my car towed there, and I'll report back with any relevant news.

phil2000 · October 2008

I was told the reason for my check engine light was that I need fuel level sensors. Where can I get them on the internet? And do I need one or two? Thanks

tanager · October 2008

Here are my latest (fairly somber) options:

1) have my independent mechanic, who has taken great care of me in the past, put an '05 Forester engine in my car with 58K miles for $4600.
2) authorize Subaru to do a tear-down and inspection, which will cost $850. Only then can they determine if there is damage to the cylinder heads and cam shaft, and only then can Subaru headquarters provide an answer on what type of assistance, if any, they can give me. If no damage is found to the above-mentioned components, I'm looking at a remanufactured shortblock with new engine gaskets for $4150. This price includes the $850 for tear-down. If I had a crystal ball and knew there would be no further damage found, this would be the way to go because Subaru's warranty on a remanufactured engine is better than what my independent mechanic will get at a scrap-yard. BUT....if there is damage to the heads and shaft, the total estimate for repair is $8000.
Every day I am shocked by some new piece of news. If that's the case, I can't do it. I'll have to bring it back to my mechanic and cut my losses on the $850 for tear-down. This is getting ridiculous. I feel like every option I have is awful. I called Subaru headquarters again today (in tears) and someone is supposed to call me back later to further discuss my options. But I know they need that tear-down before they can guarantee me anything. At their request, I provided all of my records to my Subaru dealer so they can see that I have taken care of the car to an anal degree. Don't know if this will help.
Is there a third option? Does anyone have any idea what I can get, if anything, for a Forester that---with the exception of the ENGINE--is in really good shape, with new, high-quality tires, new timing belt and pulleys, and new brakes? Would anyone give me anything for this car? At this point I would feel lucky to be able to just pay off my loan and start from scratch. :sick:

kyfdx · October 2008

That sucks... and, I'm sure.. it's the not knowing that makes it worse...

Seem obvious that you are going to have to pay for that tear-down.. If everything else is as you describe, then I feel there is a good chance that Subaru will step up and help out with this. (At least, that is the healthful attitude to take). Try to stay positive with the Subaru reps, letting them know that you have no doubt that they will come through for you, even if you have major doubts..

Because, I sure wouldn't want to have to pay $4600 for a used engine.... :surprise:

Good luck.. and hang in there!

kurtamaxxxguy · October 2008

Your records should help. Subaru appears very stringent on proper maintanance for getting their cars fixed under warranty, or implied warranty. The fact you have done so should make a positive impression on them.

My suggestion would be to give Subaru some time to respond, if possible.
If they don't come through, it sounds like your independent mechanic is the way to go. An engine swap's a major piece of work, unfortunately.

xwesx · October 2008

That it is - a lot of work - but also a simple task. It certainly does not take the skill and finesse that rebuilding the engine would take. I'm curious to know how much that used engine will cost you, without the labor tacked on.

tanager · October 2008

Thanks for your reply. I think the engine itself (the one from the '05 Forester) is about $3100.

dbcoolcars · October 2008

I have a Subaru Outback that started overheating as many others in forums have written obout. Temperature guage buried on H, bubbles in the reserve tank with a light film of dark solution, and loss of antifreeze in the radiator regularly. I would assume it was the head gasket as I changed out the radiator as it blew out and replaced the top radiator hose as it continually collapsed. This is what I did to remedy MY problem and it may not work for everyone BUT if it works for you as it did for me, it is a whole lot cheaper than tearing into the engine. I removed the 2 bolts by the lower radiator hose at the thermostat and let it drain. Took out old thermostat and took a garden hose and flushed out radiator good. Then plugged radiator hose and engine outlet with rags and filled radiator full. Did this a few times to flush ALL antifreeze from engine and radiator. Then I cut the guts out of the old thermostat so it was free flowing . I installed it in the car and installed 2 bolts. Also remove overflow tank and drain. I put in about a quart of water and purchased a quart of BLUE DEVIL from Schucks Auto and poured all of it in radiator and filled with water. Need to make sure radiator is full and engine burped. Jack up front of car. Let car idle for 45 minutes then you can drive around if you want. Temp guage will fall to cold but that was ok, in all I let my car run constantly for 2 1/2 hours. Kept an eye on guages so it never got hot. Stayed in mid range where it should. Drain solution from thermostat area, let cool down for 2 hours or more, install new 170 thermostat, gallon antifreeze and water. It took me a half hour to burp system of air with front of car in air. I squeezed upper radiator hose and all to help it along. As this is going on have car running with heater on and blower on high. All should be well when HOT air comes out of heater. It fixed my problem and it could help you. I have been on the road for 3 months now and it cost $65

samiam_68 · October 2008

That sounds very interesting, and thanks for sharing the detailed steps but I'm not sure I'm following - did you or did you not have a blown head gasket? If you did, I don't understand how your solution would have fixed the bad gasket.

paisan · October 2008

Swapping a motor on a Subaru with the same year or compatible motor is a 10-12hr job MAX, even for a small operation like my shop's. $1500 to install it isn't outrageous, but a bit high IMHO.

I'd go for the teardown and then if it needs more than the shortblock, go for the engine swap.

-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host

tanager · October 2008

Thanks for the reply Mike. I would go for the teardown without a second thought if it didn't cost $850. If I go for the teardown and then find out the shortblock is not going to cut it & heads/cams are bad, I'm looking at a repair nearing $8000. That's what the dealer told me. If that's the case, I can't authorize that repair (unless Subaru pays for A LOT of it) and I'll have to take it to my independent mechanic. Herein lies the dilemma....go for the teardown and risk losing $850 if Subaru can't help me, or just give up on help from the dealer and take it to my mechanic where I know the repair cost won't exceed $4600.
Sorry to the forum folks for carrying on about this issue.
I am going to talk to Subaru headquarters again today, since they never called me back last week. If they can give me a glimmer of hope that they'll help, I'll probably go for the teardown.

xwesx · October 2008

Well, that's the thing, though. Once the $850 is spent, you know whether it needs more than the short block. At that point, you will not need to spend $8000 because you could just have the car towed back to your mechanic, where the added cost is "only" $4600. In fact, perhaps you should find out what work the dealership plans in order to diagnose the extent of the damage. At $850, you should request that they remove the engine from the car. Maybe then labor would be less through your independent mechanic, as part of the prep work is done. I might be dreaming, though, since the poor man would then have to deal with whatever mess is left by the dealership. :sick:

$3100 for a complete engine seems on par.

What a crummy situation. I cannot help but think this is a manifestation of something the previous owner may have done to it. If it was a manufacturing issue, it would surprise me that 100,000 miles passed before it caused failure. Possible, but tough to fathom.

tanager · October 2008

Thanks, good point. It's a good idea to find out if they will remove the entire engine and perhaps save my mechanic some labor. My mechanic has done nothing but look out for my best interests in this situation, so I know he wouldn't mind...unless the engine is in shambles and I have to deliver it in pieces in a big cardboard box or something.

I know with these crazy numbers flying around, $850 seems like peanuts. But I will find it hard to stomach the $850 on top of the $4600, if it's all for naught.
Does anyone know if it's possible, or even worth it, to find out who the original owner of the car was? Then maybe I can contact them and find out if they were honest with the dealer about an engine issue, and then the dealer was dishonest. But if the original people abused the engine and didn't originally confess that to the dealer, then they're not going to admit it to me either.
Also, I had a CarFax report done, and it didn't show any accidents or rebuilt anything. Can things be hidden from CarFax?
:lemon: --This should be the symbol of my existence for now.

paisan · October 2008

I'm not so sure about the problem showing up initially. I have a customer who's LGT started burning 1Q/1K miles at about 45k miles, The dealers have been doing an oil consumption test for 6k miles after replacing his turbo, thinking the seals on the turbo were the issue. Now they are on his case about maintenance records, when he does his own maintenance and documented it in my.subaru.com

While they haven't denied the claim yet, they haven't said they'll pay for it either...

-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host

xwesx · October 2008

Regarding the PO, yes, it is possible, but who knows if it is worth it. The added history might be interesting, though! I am not sure why the person would not want to be open and honest about it. If that person abused the car, you could not go back to seek damages from them. The phrase "caveat emptor" bears no better application than to used cars and real estate.

The only thing that carfax will show is something that hits its DMV or, I think, insurance records. So, yes, there are many things that can happen to a car that would not show up there.

logtrail · October 2008

Pulsing in my brakes (06 Forester) suggests that the rotors may need to be resurfaced and I was told by the dealer that this is covered under the warrantee.
Two months ago my local mechanic checked my brakes and said that the pads were ok.(worn about 40%) So if the rotors are resurfaced can I still use the old pads or should I replace with new pads? I do not want to spend unnecessary $$

Opinions?

samiam_68 · October 2008

You can keep the old pads. That happened to my 04 Forester. The dealer just resurfaced the rotors, kept the old pads, and the vibration was gone.

originalbitman · October 2008

First off a big hello to all the old members... I haven't been on the board for some time.

I am about to embark on a 5,500 mile road trip in my 2001 Legacy GT wagon. Everything has been great with the car.

Should I go ahead and have the timing belt done now ahead of schedule?

Brakes are original but pads amazingly still look okay. I do occasionally notice a little pulsing that likely means a warped rotor. Should I do brakes and if so all new rotors?

Along with oil, filters, plugs, cooling flush is there any other maintenance I should do?

What is the current thinking on plug brand and type?

Thanks to all.

bit

paisan · October 2008

I'd do pads and rotors, at least in the front.

I'd also get the timing belt done too, can't hurt to get it done ahead of schedule, and it would suck to have to get it done on the trip.

-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host

originalbitman · October 2008

Thanks Mike.

My dealer is doing the timing belt and the mechanic says I should do water pump while I am at it. What's the life expectancy of the pump?

paisan · October 2008

Yup water pump yoo. Not sure of the life expectancy but I always get it with the TB.

-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host

pilot1226 · October 2008

Hiya,

We have a 2009 Subaru Legacy Limited with just about 2500 miles on it. Recently, the TPMS light has been coming on. I figured that this is most likely due to the change in air temperature lately as the fall air turns from cool to cold, and we're starting to see frost.

I took the Legacy to the gas station about a tenth of a mile away and filled the wheels to the specifications outlined in the Owner's Manual (we have the Yokohamas) and the light remained on. I didn't put more air into it - yet - because I didn't want to exceed the PSI listed on the sidewall.

I called Subaru Service and they said that as you drive, the wheels will warm up, and the light should go out. They've mentioned if it does not go out after 3 days to schedule a service appointment.

Has anyone else heard of any issues with the TPMS? My aunt had an issue with the sensor on her Nissan and she has told our family countless horror stories of having to go back to the Nissan dealer dozens of times before they'd actually fixed it.

kurtamaxxxguy · October 2008

There was a similar issue with the WRX STI Edmunds is driving as part of their long term fleet. In cold weather, they also had to add air to their tires to keep the TPMS light turned off.

http://blogs.edmunds.com/roadtests/2008/10/2008-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-really-co- ld-tire-pressure.html

pilot1226 · October 2008

Thanks. I don't keep the car in a garage, it's outside in a parking lot, but I will see if I could put a few more PSI into each tire, staying under the limit on the sidewall of course. It's unfortunate that the TPMS can't tell me WHICH tire is too low, as that would be an easy way to troubleshoot to see if the sensor's borked.

rondo320 · October 2008

My 2007 OBW had the same issue when I drive it in the mountains. Eventhough the tire pressure is correct according to the recommended pressures, leaving the car outside at altitude and cold temperatures guarantees the light will come on.
On a recent road trip back east, the TPMS light would start flashing after about 300 miles of driving in a day. The tire pressure was good. Since the light flashed and was not steady, according to the manual, it was a system problem not a pressure problem. When I got back, I took it to the dealer who found no codes and therefore no problems. I'm sure once the warranty is expired it will be a lot easier for the dealer to find and correct the problem.
I feel the TPMS is a nice idea that doesn't work and is definitely more trouble than it's worth. Subaru knows about this problem and could care less.

jdljr · October 2008

I have a 2009 Legacy SE and yesterday the TPMS light came on for the first time while on my way to work. "Man, am I getting a flat tire, am I going to be able to make it to work?", I thought to myself (I live in the mountains of NC and there are NO services in the 20 miles from my house to work). I got to work fine and parked, thinking I'd check the tire pressure at lunchtime. When the time came for lunch, I drove to a gas station to check the tire pressure and it appeared all were ok, but I added a couple pounds to each of them since the light was still on. I drove the 1/4 mile back to work and within that distance the light did not go off. So I looked at the owner's manual and found out that it may take a few minutes to re-sense the pressure, and I may not have driven it long enough. So after work, and only 2-3 minutes after leaving, the light went out. Didn't come on today.

But it makes me wonder...WHAT made the light come on? I guess I could have a slow leak, but I doubt it. It did not appear the pressure was low in any of the tires...and I completely agree with a previous poster that it would be nice to know WHICH tire was the culprit. It was cold the past few mornings (mid 20s) and I HOPE that it's not going to be a wintertime issue because of the frigid temperatures we experience. I'm not crazy about having this system on the car (I remember having it on a rental car years ago and I hated it then) and I am hoping that it won't prove to be an annoyance.

I do have a question though, does the TPMS also sense the pressure in the spare tire in the trunk? I couldn't find anything in the owner's manual about that. My hunch is NO, since the manual talked about the TPMS not being able to monitor the pressure if one of the tires was removed and replaced, but I just wondered.

skyluc8 · October 2008

Should I buy a 1987 Subaru Legacy for $500?
It has about 180k. Everything works well. Is it worth it?

paisan · October 2008

If you have the light on when it gets cold, your tires are too low on air pressure.

With the colder temperatures, the PSI COLD goes down. This will trigger the TPMS light to come on. You should inflate your tires to the proper tire pressure when COLD (in other words if you drive to the gas station and put air in, bump it up about 5psi or so because now the tires are "warm").

Once you fill them you need to drive a few miles in order for the TPMS computer to register the new PSI.

-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host

kurtamaxxxguy · October 2008

I'd have a friendly competent mechanic look it over just to be sure: if he/she says ok, then sounds fine as a second car, etc.
A vehicle that old could be difficult to get spare parts for, though. Usually manufacturers keep parts for 7 - 8 years from a vehicles' introduction. For one that old, I don't know.

xwesx · October 2008

Yeah, at $500, it would be tough to say it is not worth it, especially if the car runs. Depending on where you live, (used) parts could be plentiful or scarce, but there is somewhat of a cult following for them, so I am sure you could get parts from somewhere.

The thing I notice most about old Subaru vehicles is lifter noise. If it does not have said noise, then you are probably ahead of the game.

sublor · November 2008

I'm having a terrible day! Our 2001 Outback with 150,000 miles, has been making a grinding sound when we shift into 1st or from 1st into 2nd. We thought probably a gear/transmission thing...we are definately not car people...so mechanics can tell us anything. We've just moved here and don't know anyone to refer us to a good mechanic. Anyway, we took it to AAMCO in Manassas, Va.

They just called and said it was probably the synchronizer and that to fix it the labor would be $1017.00. They couldn't say what the parts cost would be until they opened it up. We just had a new clutch installed last month--at a different shop. AAMCO told us that the flywheel should have been retooled when the clutch was done, but wasn't. AAMCO said they could do it for us while they had the car.

Does their diagnosis of the grinding sound reasonable, and is the $1017 for labor sound reasonable. Could it be something else? We just had a new baby last week and this expense is the last thing we needed! We're going to have to borrow the money from my parents.

Thank you--Lori

kurtamaxxxguy · November 2008

First thing I'd suggest is doing a BBB check on those folks. AAMCO has had a bad reputation in the past of overcharging for unneeded services. If they come up with clean bill of health, or you've done business with them before and had good service experiences, they may be ok.

Grinding when shifting is often a Synchronizer issue (synchronizers match gear speeds to avoid grinding). Synchros do wear out over time.

kyfdx · November 2008

If someone had just repaired my clutch within the last month, and my gears are grinding, I'd want to go back there first, and see what they had to say..

fendertweed · November 2008

The cause may sound reasonable, I can't speak to cost... for a reliable NoVA shop I can recommend RPM in Newington/Lorton, 703-550-8240 (near the Springfield Metro). I have no connection with them other than as a long time customer but they are honest and reliable and very competent.

At 150k miles, it sure could be synchros but the fact that it follows on clutch work may or may not be related to that work and I agree that the 1st thing I'd do is go back to the shop that did the clutch work. Good luck

paisan · November 2008

I agree with going back to the original shop. Having worked on subies, 150k for synchros is not out of the question at all. Heck I'm suprised they lasted that long!

I'd also be very suprised if the shop that put in the clutch messed up the synchros, if anything you may have damaged them when the clutch was worn down, but even that isn't likely.

I had a very bad experience with AAMCO, they had to buy back my 1991 Escort because they damaged it so badly.

-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host

rondo320 · November 2008

I had a similar problem with my 2006 OBW. I asked for everybody's advice that I could find including the local radio car program. Most of the suggestions were expensive and wrong. It turned out that the transmission wasn't properly remounted after the repair and caused the grinding and difficulty shifting.
As far as AAMCO goes, in my opinion based on my experience with a different car and problem, I would immediately remove my car from their shop and never set foot in an AAMCO store again. I wound up suing, winning and collecting but it wasn't easy.

ateixeira · November 2008

bit! Long time, no see my friend!

Pop in and say hi to the Subaru Crew - Meet the Members II thread.

iamvivek · November 2008

In 2009 Outback with Harmon Kardon (limited model and up) there is suppose to be feature that will increase the volume as the vehicle speed increases.

I have seen it work in 2009 Legacy (same HK system), but does not work in an outback although the subaru brochure and site says it should (http://www.subaru.com/sub/misc/harmankardon/index.html)

If you have a 2009 outback limited+ can you check and let me know.

pilot1226 · November 2008

This is called SCV, or Speed Compensated Volume. I had it on a `98 Chevy Malibu. It's mainly for when you're driving to compensate for air noise/road noise at higher speeds.

I don't have the Outback, but as you mentioned, it's working on my Legacy.

skbaker · November 2008

I am having an issue with my '96 Subaru Legacy Outback. It is lacking acceleration power, especially at lower RPMs and when driving up a hill. I have just had the fuel injection system cleaned and fuel filter replaced, but still have an issue.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

skbaker · November 2008

I am having an issue with my '96 Subaru Legacy Outback. It is lacking acceleration power, especially at lower RPMs and when driving up a hill. I have just had the fuel injection system cleaned and fuel filter replaced, but still have an issue.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

paisan · November 2008

There is a setting for it. I have it on my Armada but you need to have it set to work properly.

-mike

kurtamaxxxguy · November 2008

could be many things....

was power loss sudden or gradual?

manual or auto trans?
Air filter cleaned?
Idle smooth or rough?
Smoke coming from exhaust when accelerating or de-accelerating?

skbaker · November 2008

Hello,

See below in response to your questions.
I appreciate your help.

Steve

was power loss sudden or gradual?
Sudden - just happened 2 weeks ago.

manual or auto trans?
auto trans

Air filter cleaned?
air filter clean

Idle smooth or rough?
idle is smooth

Smoke coming from exhaust when accelerating or de-accelerating?
I have noticed some darker smoke coming from exhaust when accelerating.

saedave · November 2008

Some years ago I had a Legacy with a bad knock sensor (as delivered new). Replacement sensor got rid of hesitation. I don't know if those sensors are still in use, but it might be worth checking.

skbaker · November 2008

Thank you for this feedback. This is helpful. I will check this out.

tanager · November 2008

Just thought I'd follow up with the outcome of this situation. I ended up taking my car back to my independent mechanic. I gave up on having any work done at the Subaru dealership when the service manager told me, honestly, that I would probably get no help from Subaru with three things working against me: 1) not being the original owner, 2) not buying the car from Subaru dealer, and 3) having over 100K miles on the car. I decided risking $850 for the teardown was not worth it. So, my mechanic installed a used engine from another '04 Forester with 32K miles on it. I just got my car back a week ago. It seems OK but it has a "lifter tick". It's quite audible. My mechanic wants me to drive it a lot to see if the tick goes away. This weekend I put about 400 miles on the car and the tick is still there. The total for this job came to $4660 for the engine and labor. The engine has a 90 day warranty on parts, so I guess I'll keep driving it and see if the tick lessens.

Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles