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Comments
Double check your oil level and grade. I find Subaru engines to be quite sensitive to oil level when it comes to hearing those lifters.
I had a terrible oil leak on my '96 Outback for a little while, though, and it got to the point where I had to put *at least* a quart of oil in it on every fuel up (~250-300 miles!). The lifters ticked probably as much as they didn't tick. Once I pulled the engine and replaced the faulty seals, it was quiet again and ran another 80,000 miles with no problem, so your engine's noise may not be a sign of impending doom. Maybe.
Check the oil level carefully when warm. Overfilling in a horizontally opposed engine means the pistons are slopping oil back and forth. Performance drops dramatically.
Cheers
Graham
My wife and I purchased a 2009 Subaru Legacy Limited in August of this year. We're getting ready for our first service appointment, and recently we've noticed that there's a buzzing type of sound when the radio is on.
The buzz also exists when you play a CD.
I've tried adjusting the Bass, Treble, and Middle ranges, and noticed that when you turn the bass down, and the treble up, the buzz seems to diminish, but the audio sounds terrible, too tinny as you can imagine.
My wife and I don't really turn the radio up that loud - not really ever past 15, usually it's at 10 - so we don't think we blew out the Subwoofer or anything else.
Anyone have any suggestions on something else to possibly try, or what I can say to the service department when I can bring it into service so they know that this wasn't something we did (for instance, blasting the speakers)...?
Thanks.
How could replacing the clutch affect the syncros inside a transmission that was not opened?
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
The last two fillups, my fuel gauge will only register up to about 7/8's full. I've tried different pumps, but the pop off with the gauge reading the same amount.
The car only has 2500 miles on it; are my floats out of whack already? I'm assuming its time to take a trip to the dealer ... ???
Thanks in advance.
Jopopsy
this summer. Finally the Subaru people checked it and say it is code 490 and catalytic converter needs to be replaced. But I look up codes online and there is no
code 490. And even if it is the converter, what if I do nothing about it for a little while.
What could be downside of that?
Thanks, don
Recently I have had an issue where the vehicle will seem like it will stall out. The car will idle at 2K RPM with the clutch in or it out of gear. When put into gear it will only go maybe 10 mph. I was told that this may be a "limp home mode".
Once I got it home and let it sit I fired it up again and it started no problem, I drove around town and maybe got 2-3 miles before it did it again. I was able to get home goign maybe 10mph again. since then it has sat.
The Cruise control light flashes maybe at 1 flash per second.
Anyone have any thoughts? I was thinking along the lines of the Throttle Position sensor but was told that it could also be a sensor connected to the accelerator as well.
I would hesitate to clear the codes without someone with more expertise than the OP (get a 2d opinion) going through it to see if its an O2 sensor or something other than the cat.
If the code isn't related to the cat failure and you don't fix the problem you can dump unburned fuel into the cat and then you will need a new cat.
170k on a 2000, wow!
jopopsy: I'd let the dealer look at that, probably a bad sender or something simple like that.
11,000 miles
Automatic
I found my rear passenger tire flat last Saturday (1/3/2008). There was a nail sticking out of the sidewall. My nearest dealership is about 50 miles away.
So, I had to have the tire replaced locally. I couldn't find the exact match for the factory tires (Bridgestone). So, I had to have a BF Goodrich with the same specs installed.
I took my car to Subaru on Wednesday for other service (I have been having issues with the heat/defrost controls sticking). It was slightly snowing that day and I took the interstate. I still drove around 65 to 70 mph because the conditions weren't bad. I had no issues with traction or sliding.
This morning, I got in my car and on to the interstate. I was going about 70 and the rear end of my car just started coming out from behind me. It was like I was driving on ice. There is no ice. It's too warm for ice. The roads were a little damp, but there was no reason for my car to behaving in that manner. (Honestly, it felt like I was driving my husband's mustang at too fast of a speed in pouring down rain.) I pulled off and was attempting to turn into a gas station. The rear end of my car just start skipping/jumping and shuddering.
My tire pressure appears to be fine. I checked all of my lug nuts. I have no lights on on my dashboard. I do not have a traction control button. My emergency brake was not on. I checked under the car and under the hood to make sure I didn't see any leaks of any sort.
I have never pulled anything with my car. I don't drive my car crazy-- I'm an adult female.
I can take curves at about 35 mph max without my car acting up. At 70mph on a straight-a-way my car starts fishtailing. My car has NEVER handled like this!
What else do I need to check before I have my car towed to Subaru??
I have Subaru Roadside assistance, so hopefully I won't have to pay for the tow. I don't like having to be without it. I don't like my husbands car.
Edited to add:
There was some kind of a low whistling noise coming from my car on my slow drive back to my home.
Many earlier Subarus (through around '08) used limited slip rear diffs, and if the diff's clutches have locked up, then it will not properly distribute power to the rear wheels, and cause fishtailing.
It comes on for a minute or so then reverts back to the regular ( how many miles I've gone).
This is a 05 Legacy Turbo automatic.
Thanks for your anticipated help
Bob G
MNSteve
Just because the tire may have the same spec size such as 215/60R16, it doesn't mean the circumference will be the same. Have a dealer check this out ASAP before the AWD system gets damaged.
Page 11-36 of my 2008 Forester Owners Manual says:
"Mixing tires of
different types, sizes or degrees
of wear can result in damage to
vehicle’s power train."
It sounds like the new tire could be mismatched enough to damage the AWD after the fast 100-mile trip to the dealer. Perhaps the new tread increased the diameter too much, or perhaps the new tire is even a size larger (check it). In those cases, I would think the Tire Pressure Monitoring System would detect a mismatch in diameter -- which is how it monitors pressure. If your car has TPMS and the new tire was a problem, a warning light should have showed.
There should be mention in the Drivers manual of a fuse you can install to disable the AWD system (in the Forester, I believe that fuse is inside the car on the fuse panel near the driver's left knee). Once that fuxe is inserted (you can get spare fuses in the fuse compartment under the hood), the vehicle reverts to FWD only and an AWD symbol, indicating AWD shutoff, should appear in the instrument console.
If your shudder / fishtailing goes away when in FWD mode, that would suggest the problem is with AWD imbalance or possibly the rear differential.
Bob G
I almost always buy from tire rack and have them drop ship to my local installer.
I just ended up driving the thing in FWD till this December, when I got under it and took off the pan. Some fine steel swarf on the magnet, but not bad for 210k miles. I pulled the filter and flushed it and found many pieces of a plastic electrical connector shell that appeared to be the connector to the part I'd fixed earlier. So, I pulled the tailhousing back off and, OOPS!, the connector had got tangled up with the parking pawl cogs. So maybe that explained why it seemed to work briefly.
So, I put it all back together, glued the connector. And it still doesn't work! I put a tester on the TCM wire that controls the transfer clutch and seems to get no signal.( This with the car up on 4 stands and someone else pushing the gas pedal and applying the E-brake. It seems like this scenario would make the transfer clutch apply as the TCM should think the front wheels are spinning and the rear have traction.) What's next? VSS's?
If you know of any other forums that might help me more, please let me know.
Thanks,
Al
07 TPMS measures pressure directy (does not use the ABS to detect differences in rotational speed like some earlier TPMS systems)
as others have said, make sure there is not a huge difference in tread depth between your new tire and your old or your diff is toast
Unfortunately, the roads are bone dry today. I made him get out and I took it back out myself. I got up to 85 mph before it started handling funny again. The only time it really acted up was in curves and it just felt really loose.
I am calling the dealership tomorrow and seeing what I need to do.
I have no clue where to find a used Bridgestone Potenza with 11,000 miles on it. (They are currently measuring at 7/32nds). If I find a place around here that stocks new ones, or have a new one shipped here, then I am going to have a tread depth issue still right???
I am just going to have to buy a whole new set?
It's not a REAL big job taking the tail housing off and accessing the transfer clutch parts.
But I'm looking for electrical answers first.
Al
Unfortunately, you are probably going to have to buy a whole new set. You might be able to get the new tire shaved, but unless it has the exact same wear characteristics of the old tires, it is going to wear faster, slower, etc, and cause problems down the road.
Since the tire is new at this point, it may be a good time to get three more. Frustrating, I know, but far less expensive in the long run. If damage is caused by this, it will not be covered by the warranty.
Also keep in mind that faster speeds cause more strain on the system, as do dry roads. You are going to feel less stability on slick surfaces, but that is because the stress in the system is most easily vented through wheel slippage, and slick roads allow this to happen at lower stress levels than a dry, hard surface.
In the meantime, keep speeds down and/or trips short.
Oh, and this is definitely one of those times when you should *not* listen to your husband... no offense to him.
Can the clutches be replaced or does the whole compressor have to be changed?
(85000 miles.)
Jim :confuse:
One high tech shop here is advertising AVO High Flow Panel Filters, which they claim have a dramatic improvement in airflow without loss of filtration.
But I am leery. The design seems similar to K & M filters which, while being higher flow than stock, let a lot more dust and dirt get into the engine. I'm not particularly interested in filling engine and oil with dirt and dust !!!
Any of the performance folks here know if AVO filters do what they say (increase air flow without loss of filtration)? I could just buy stock filters more often to be on the safe side!
When do these issues happen?? after 60K, 80K.
I am almost to 36K and am wondering if I should purchase this ext. warranty??
any thoughts are appreciated.
Acunurse
There also seems to be a large whitish plastic container just below the main air filter housing...what that is there for, I am not sure. A Vacuum reservoir?
The internal Cabin filter, though, was far thinner (if more pleated) and seemingly more porous. I was able to gently brush and air blast the loose stuff and larger particles out of it. I doubt it will do much good for pollen sufferers, given its relatively coarse weave.
On other hand, it will not block up as fast as the GM cabin air filters for the ION and (by special assembly) Mailbu, which would turn gray within two weeks of installation.
It's rock throwing season on the Oregon freeways and my glass is already getting chipped.
11,000 miles
Automatic
I found my rear passenger tire flat last Saturday (1/3/2008). There was a nail sticking out of the sidewall. My nearest dealership is about 50 miles away.
So, I had to have the tire replaced locally. I couldn't find the exact match for the factory tires (Bridgestone). So, I had to have a BF Goodrich with the same specs installed.
I took my car to Subaru on Wednesday for other service (I have been having issues with the heat/defrost controls sticking). It was slightly snowing that day and I took the interstate. I still drove around 65 to 70 mph because the conditions weren't bad. I had no issues with traction or sliding.
This morning, I got in my car and on to the interstate. I was going about 70 and the rear end of my car just started coming out from behind me. It was like I was driving on ice. There is no ice. It's too warm for ice. The roads were a little damp, but there was no reason for my car to behaving in that manner. (Honestly, it felt like I was driving my husband's mustang at too fast of a speed in pouring down rain.) I pulled off and was attempting to turn into a gas station. The rear end of my car just start skipping/jumping and shuddering.
My tire pressure appears to be fine. I checked all of my lug nuts. I have no lights on on my dashboard. I do not have a traction control button. My emergency brake was not on. I checked under the car and under the hood to make sure I didn't see any leaks of any sort.
I have never pulled anything with my car. I don't drive my car crazy-- I'm an adult female.
I can take curves at about 35 mph max without my car acting up. At 70mph on a straight-a-way my car starts fishtailing. My car has NEVER handled like this!
What else do I need to check before I have my car towed to Subaru??
I have Subaru Roadside assistance, so hopefully I won't have to pay for the tow. I don't like having to be without it. I don't like my husbands car.
Edited to add:
There was some kind of a low whistling noise coming from my car on my slow drive back to my home.
My guess is in this order:
1) Wheel Bearing
or
2) front lower control arm bushing
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
One high tech shop here is advertising AVO High Flow Panel Filters, which they claim have a dramatic improvement in airflow without loss of filtration.
But I am leery. The design seems similar to K & M filters which, while being higher flow than stock, let a lot more dust and dirt get into the engine. I'm not particularly interested in filling engine and oil with dirt and dust !!!
Any of the performance folks here know if AVO filters do what they say (increase air flow without loss of filtration)? I could just buy stock filters more often to be on the safe side!
We just did a 30k on a customer's car with an AVO filter. The rubber around the edges of it came off in like 5k miles for him. We replaced it with an oem style paper filter. I would get a K&N before the AVO one.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Has anyone replaced the gaskets? Is it difficult to do? He will be at my place in a few weeks and we could do the change out in a garage. I don't think it would be difficult to stick the gasket clips into the body, but one never can be sure.
Thanks
This question may have been answered previously, but I could find a thread for it. I have a 2006 Outback XT , manual trans., with 30k miles and just sliced a front tire on a piece of metal and had it replaced with an identical new tire. My tire dealer said I just had to replace the one tire, it was okay as long as it was the same model and tread pattern. I have since heard that you should really replace both tires on the same axle. Any advice?
If the difference in circumference between the new tire vs other 3 30k tires is more than 1/4 inch, it can cause all manner of problems with differentials, AWD, ABS, etc.
I think .25" circumference equates to about 2/32" of tread depth (I know I'll get corrected if it's not) If the new tire has 2/32" more (deeper) tread than the other 3, it's 4 tire time.
Been there, done that.
Cheers!
Paul
My sister is going through this right now with her Forester, but she hasn't installed the new tire yet. She got a set from TireRack not too many months ago so she's crossing her fingers on the differential with the new one that just arrived.
3 yrs ago we moved from CA to Boston. Recently temps dropped below 25 during the day. After starting the car in the evening after a day outside, I started getting a very strong gas smell especially with heater/defrost on. The smell went away after driving about 5 miles (i.e., car heated up). A web search turned up many similar cases. A common cause was fuel hose contraction from the cold.
After a cold start I opened the hood but couldn't see anything but could smell fuel. I took it to the dealer today. They said it was a cracked (rubber) fuel hose near the radiator intake. It'll be $200 to fix. $65 part, the rest is labor. I'll get it back the next business day and hopefully it smell anymore.