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Comments
The problem is oil retained in the rubber door seals within the heating system.
The oil will eventually be volatilized but it takes some time.
In extreme cases Subaru can replace the seals.
You can remove the film with either Stoner's Invisible Glass or Megiuars glass cleaners. Regular windex-type cleaners won't remove those films.
Is this true? Isolated cases? Specific year engines ? :confuse:
Having read about these after market heat shields that keep heat away from other engine parts (and apparently keep it within the turbo), do these make any difference?
And can the shield itself raise turbo temperatures to where the turbos fail faster?
Just curious...am making sure my '09 XT stays healthy.
I have posted this same type of message in regards to my '01 Outback. Mine has 125k and has had this same problem intermittently for a few years. My local dealer never had a resolution and someone on this forum made a great point.
The choke opens up too much in our colder areas and releases this smell. I live in NH and this occurs on those very cold mornings and actually, today, as it was 20 degrees outside.
I just live with and tell my passengers to prepare for it
I left it over night at the dealer so they check when it's cold.
I just want to let you know that I have an 02' Subaru Impreza WRX that has been having problem with fuel leak/strong fuel smell coming out from under the intake manifold when the temp dips into freezing. I've taken my car to a Subaru dealership about 8 months ago and all the dealership did is tighten the clamp for the hose or pipe involved with the leak without any charge. Apparently there is a TSB report for this problem in my type of car/year model etc. Its TSB 09-36-03 to be exact.
Unfortunately, the problem surfaced again this time of the year. I notified the very same dealership of the problem and of the apparent TSB report and was told that they are well aware of the problem but it will cost me $500-$600 for it to be repaired. After reading the TSB report, it looks like a designed flaw to begin with (at least to me) and asked them if they can help me with this issue with Subaru of America. To make the story short, they told me tough luck. So, no chance of having this particular dealer be my personal customer advocate. What a shocker ehh?
I decided to call Subaru Of America(SOA) myself to inquire about this TSB report and simply asked them if they are helping their customer about this issue. The representative gave me a "service request number" and told me to take my car back to a Subaru service dept of my choosing and to give them the "service request number" from SOA. I did just that but to a different Subaru Service Dept this time. Less than 2 hours in the shop, the service dept. rep. gave me one of the best news I've heard so far this year. SOA will take care of the whole problem(parts and labor included) as well as the diagnostic charge. Overall charge was to run around $550+ and SOA will take care of the whole thing. All I need to do now is to take my car back to the shop and it will apparently take approx. 5 hours to fix.
I also want to add that my car is a 2002 Subaru WRX wagon with well over 76,700+ miles without any extended warranty. The car has been great without any issue whatsoever since I bought it back in 2001. I still love this car and its been religiously well maintained. Its been a great reliable car.
I suggest you call SOA at 1-800-SUBARU3 and politely explain your problem and ask them if they know about this problem in your car. See if you can find a similar TSB report like the one I found. Then kindly ask them if they offer any assistance to their customers with this matter. It maybe worth a try in your case.
Let me know how this turns out for you. I'm taking my car to the shop next week because the parts needed to get my car fix is already in the shop. I'll post later of the result. Anyway, this post maybe of interest to anyone having problem with fuel leak/smell from their car.
Regards
So far they have cleaned the windsheild like 4 times. This 4th time, I learned that they coated it with a wax to try to make the film not build up.
My question to you: Are you getting sick at all from the fumes? I am. I would like to trade notes with you if you are getting sick at all. Thanks.
Regards
I recommend that you call their 800# as well to get authorization for the real fix.
The issue is suppose to be some gaskets on the heater box "vanes". They will have to replace the whole heater box to get rid of it. I'm told it can last up to 15 months (so far reported) if you don't get it replaced. I believe, from what I have garnered to date, that it looks like the "rubber" gaskets were impregnated with some type of "oil" that is given off through the defroster (and probably the other vents) and causes the film you are seeing build up.
This has also occured on the 2008 IMPREZA, which is why they know what to do about it...
You're certain to get the kinks worked out here soon. You just finished with a major surgery; there are sure to be a few complications.
How is your fuel economy? Have you driven it enough to tell?
Keep at it -
-Wes-
03 Outback has 118K on it- Realize I'm past the recommended mileage for a timing belt.
MY question is this- Got initial quotes from 2 dealers, Becker in PA, and Flemington in NJ. Price was substantially different based on same work- $250 versus $425.
I realize the recommendation is to also get the water pump done- anything else?- which would add to the price but don't understand why the starting point is so different
RT
First of all. It's not whether it can or can't be cleaned. Anything can be cleaned, if you go about it right. The question should be, first of all, whether cleaning it would do any good, and if so, whether it needs to be cleaned. Oxygen sensors are exposed to such extreme heat that the only thing that it can get (dirty) with is carbon. Extreme heat will turn any organic matter, such as gasoline or oil, into carbon. Well the bad thing about that, is that baked carbon is not soluble in any kind of solvent, and even if it was, the sensing unit within the o2 sensor module, is not exposed, and is not visible. It is covered by what is usually a louvered steel cylinder. Therefor if you're going to brush it, use a wire brush and brush it as hard as you want, because it isn't going to hurt the steel cover. But this is the problem. The only thing that you can really clean with any success is the outer cover. Since solvents won't do any good, I really would not recomend using electric motor cleaner, since the active indredient in it is Trichloroethylene which is not a very strong solvent. not only is it's strength very low, but also, since it is designed to clean electronic components, it evaporates very rapidly, resulting in a very short working time.
Since o2 sensors are disigned to hande such extreme temeratures. The best method of cleaning them, is to heat the bottom part of the sensor (the part that inserts into the exaust) with a propane torch, to the point that it just begins to turn red. You do not want it to glow chery red, even though they are designed to take extreme heat, you can still over do it. Once you have it heated to the point that is just turns red, or to the point just befor it turns red, quench it in water. This will break free any carbon build up inside the sensor. After the first time, some pieces may still be to big to come out of the sensor so I would recomend doing it 2 to 3 times, blowing it out with an air compressor between each time. But I would have to say, good luck, since O2 sensors very seldom fail do to being dirty. This is not common at all.
I realize the recommendation is to also get the water pump done- anything else?- which would add to the price but don't understand why the starting point is so different..."
The $250 sounds like a dealer could only replace the belt, based on this:
Ebay Buy It Now $200 Timing Belt Kit Contains the following:
(1) Timing Belt
(2) Timing Belt Idler Bearing Smooth
(1) Timing Belt Idler Cogged
(1) Hydraulic Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly
While those are being replaced, the access makes it convenient to also replace the water pump, thermostat, respective gaskets, water pump by pass hose, coolant and conditioner. One person reported his dealer did the belt kit plus all that for $563.
Some recommend also replacing the front crankshaft main seal and the cam seals during this time of good access.
Normally I would say plugs, then spark plug wires (if applicable), but I'd add the ignition coil since there is one for all 4 cylinders, and you have multiple misfires.
They're about $80 so not that expensive if you have not already tried that.
He also needs a replacement 16x6.5 GT wheel if anyone has one.
Thanks.
If your tires, brakes, shocks & battery are good for three more years, the rebuilt engine makes sense. It is likely the rebuilt engine has a new water pump and timing belt; is that correct? The word rebuilt needs a fuller description of just what is new or replaced.
Beginning in Aug 08 we noticed that our air conditioning system in the hot sun would only run cold at the very lowest setting. Even one or two degrees above the bottom setting and very hot air would come out. We took it back to Romano Subaru in New York and sought warranty service. They discovered that nearly our entire Freon tank was empty and Romano thought that refilling it would fix the problem. After one day the vehicle was back to blowing out hot air. After a second attempt to get it fixed, the dealer recognized the problem but said they could not find the source. That maybe it just worked that way. They were willing to "just replace the compressor" but didn't think it would fix the problem. We told them not to bother, realizing we were already moving to Vienna, VA in Oct 08 for my DC job, and said that we would just have it looked at in Virginia.
We lived with the problem for a few weeks while we got settled in DC and decided to bring the car in after the New Year, the problem never changing. Farrish Subaru took the car in for service and realized that our Freon was near empty again. They decided to put dye into the system and have us run the car for a week to see where a leak may be. We returned and they found a tube leaking and ordered the part. We returned Feb 19th and they took two days to replace the part, saying that the AC was fixed. They dropped the car back off Feb 20th and I tested the car that evening. Within 2 minutes of lukewarm air, on the AC setting, hot air came out again. I returned to the dealership on Feb 21st and showed their repair representative Stan the heating problem. He drove the car around their lot for 5 minutes and returned saying that he couldn't figure it out, the AC worked the day before, but now it didn't, and he couldn't hear the compressor kick on. They gave us a rental car.
That evening, based on 4 attempts to get the problem resolved, I faxed a letter to Subaru of America saying that we wanted final resolution for the problem or we would have no choice but to label the vehicle a lemon.
On Feb 23rd we spoke to Stan again who said they could not figure out the problem and they were going to contact the manufacturer to seek assistance with the repair. Furthermore, Stan said that they tested the heated air being released as 119F, which then cooled down to 105F after a few minutes. Hours later we received a phone call from Subaru of America Senior Customer Service Representative Deloria Marshall who said she would investigate.
On Feb 24th we received a call from Stan from Farrish Subaru that they could not find the source of the problem, they compared our vehicle to another new Subaru Forester, its AC did not have the same problem as ours, but that because they couldn't figure it out, they were assuming that they fixed our problem, and that "our" AC must just work that way.
On Feb 25th we attempted twice to contact Deloria Marshall who did not return our call. On Feb 26th we attempted to contact Deloria Marshall who promptly answered the phone, obviously screening our calls, "Hello Ms. Schiffman, I still don't have an answer for you." Later that day, she called and said that they are sending a tech rep from Headquarters on Thursday, Mar 5 to see the car because the dealer was now saying that they couldn't figure out our problem and that the dealer says it must be "fixed."
I called that evening and spoke to Deloria. I asked her point blank if the reason they were sending a Headquarters representative on Mar 5 was to rubber stamp our car "fixed." I told her that doing this would not remove our right to seek legal assistance. I told her that we were worried what 119F air would do to our infant daughter and how a non-functioning AC would affect our daughter in the summer. She said that the sole reason they were sending a representative on Mar 5 was to find the problem and fix it. She said they were a small company and care about their customers.
At 11:01AM Feb 27th I left a message on Deloria Marshall's answering machine that I wanted to attend the Headquarters tech representative's visit on Mar 5th. Furthermore, I was wondering if I could bring a privately hired, independent car technician to the Mar 5 appointment.
At roughly 1PM Feb 27th, my wife received a phone call from Farrish Subaru that the Headquarters tech representative had just shown up at the dealership and certified the vehicle as "fixed." That we had until that evening to pick up our car.
The primary reason we are worried about our non-functional AC is because of our infant daughter. We paid in cash for a vehicle that we trusted to be safe and reliable and regret our purchase. Subaru of America's senior customer service representative swore to me that their Headquarters representative was coming to help. Now certifying it fixed days in advance of the original appointment binds our hands.
It is true that the automatic air conditioning system is not the best when I compare mine to my VW Passats' air. However, unlike the Passats, the Subaru does not need constant major electrical fixes.
If you've always liked it, sure, put in the new engine. You'll probably get another decade out of it, so then $400/year will seem like nothing.
If you were looking for a reason to trade up to the 2009s, here's the perfect excuse.
We have an 09 so I'd lean towards trading now. Just take it to CarMax before you take the dealer's low-ball trade offer.
"It is true that the automatic air conditioning system is not the best when I compare mine to my VW Passats' air. However, unlike the Passats, the Subaru does not need constant major electrical fixes."
My question is: Is the Subaru automatic (Dual Zone) AC [such as on the Outback Limited] less efficient or effective than the "stock" AC setup [as on the Outback SE]?
There's a huge price premium for the leather, sunroof & Dual Zone AC on the Limited and if the automatic AC is not good, that's probably not worth it. A poor AC system is the kiss of death for me in buying a car.
I'm used to the automatic AC on my current '01 Audi A6, which is an excellent AC system.
Thanks,
Jon
Buy the SE, it's the better value.
Having said that, we have a 2009 Forester Limited and the ACC has gotten a lot better, in fact we pretty much set it and forget it.
My 99 forester, stick shift, has 135,000 miles on it. I had the head gasket replaced about 1500 miles ago (and hoped this would fix the issue, but it had zero effect).
About 3k miles ago I started hearing a sound at high speeds (70 mph). It was barely noticeable, but sounded like knocking of a diesel. I know all about piston slap because I've had it since 10,000 miles and this is something different. The oddest thing about it is that it is unrelated to the engine RPM's, but directly correlated to the speed I am driving. (I tested it out last night coasting down a hill with the engine off in neutral - sound still there in spades) The sound seems like it is emanating from somewhere down below my radio. About 100 miles ago it became louder at lower speeds that I knew something was VERY wrong. I am afraid to drive it more than 2 miles at this point and hesitate to go over 35 MPH.
At about the same time, I also noticed if I drove the car a distance of at least 10 miles, I found the front wheels start to stick if I turned them sharply when in a parking lot. Unsure if these two symptoms are related.
I went and had my transmission fluid flushed at the dealer to see if that would solve it but it had no effect.
Can anyone verify this is the center differential going out. I cannot afford another $1000+ repair job that doesn't solve the problem. I have been quoted $1300 to fix. If so, do I get the clutch replaced as well??? You're starting to approach $2k which is about what the vehicle is worth.
The frustrating part about this is that I finally am able to take the bus and find a use for this second car about 1-2 times per month for local errands and the occasional weekend guys trip. If it weren't for this problem I might put maybe 2,000 miles/year on it. I just wanted it to last long enough for the new Diesel Outback . . . .
Plus that's a common issue with the 99s.
Would like MSDS for whatever they are using for the refrigerant, which is listed as HFC134a in the owners manual?
Thanks!
Jon
BTW, do you know if this applies to the Subaru Super Coolant as well? I haven't been able to find anything on that at all.
I have a 2005 outback with 100k miles on it. There’s a loud “humming” noise coming from the back while driving a moderate to high speeds. The tires are at half/close to end, life. My ABS light is one. I winder if I need new bearings? Some times the ABS light will go off. Thanks. VL :confuse:
Given that bearing issues are fairly common, that's likely.