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did you ever get an answer to this problem? i have the exact same thing, on my wife's car no less. i have looked but cannot find a reply (i'm such a noob)
thanks
dave
I'm interested in one of these models, that DO NOT have the antenna on the roof. First - Do you know which models or years this was available? Second - DO you know of reliability... or practical problems with this feature? How about vulnerability to damage, or problems with ice/snow on it, while retracted? And cost to replace if there is a problem.
Thanks a lot!
Sometimes it doesn't want to go completely up or down - when I notice that, I extend the antenna and wipe it down with a rag. Maybe I'll lube the rag lightly with a spritz of WD-40 or something, but just wiping the dirt off seems to do the trick.
This was an Alaskan car for years before I brought it down to Idaho and it spends 30 days a winter sitting in the ski hill parking lot, so it seems to tolerate the cold fine (usually it's garaged and doesn't get much long term ice/snow on it).
I have no idea which models have the side mounted antennas or how much it costs to fix them. The motor should be easy to get to through the trim, and it probably has one of those hook arrangements if you just need to replace the mast.
Oil Seal 1
Timing Belt 1
Gasket Rocker Cover RH 1
Gasket Rocker Cover LH 1
Gasket Rocker Cover #20 4
Washer Rocker Cover 16
Spark Plug 4
Quite a list...I need to replace leaking cam seals and valve covers...so since the mechanic is in there, he also suggested doing the timimg belt and plugs...lucky for me I owe the govt $650 in taxes!
Oh, well, it's only money :-(
Since I've been buying my own parts, the cost of parts should be more or less halved What kind of plugs should I get for the WRX?
Serge
In ten years of these boards, I cannot recall the aerial in glass ever being mentioned as a problem. It is remarkably effective at pulling in distant stations and never any mechanical issues.
Cheers
Graham
Anyway, thanks Steve (host) for the info regarding your '97. I'm in Seattle, so not much snow here most the time... But like you, I'm up at the mountains a lot, and that's why the snow/ice question, regarding the electric retractable antenna. And I'm glad to hear that your experience has been good.
Anybody else with info about reliability of these antennas, that Subaru put on some models... or which models came with these would be great. Thanks a lot !!
My 98 Outback Limited had the power antenna, and I'm pretty sure that this was a feature of the Limited package back then along with an upgraded stereo package, speakers, and leather heated seats.
It did have the same issues of getting stuck in colder weather and required a wipe down w/WD40. I eventually replaced the mast which resolved the problem. The part was described as the "rod and nut" on many of the parts sites that I used and it cost around $30 or so.
The replacement job wasn't bad at all. Let me know if you need more details on this.
Alan
09 Outback
FWIW, the in glass antenna works fine for me. I had a manual antenna on my 97 Outback, in-glass on my 2000 Outback (I think that was the 1st year) and in-glass on my current 05 Forester.
I had to spray mine with windshield de-icer one time this winter to loosen accumulated ice over the top of the antenna while it was retracted.
Hello over there on the 'Wet' (west) side!
Cheers!
Paul
(Spokane)
Don't worry about power antennaes or the replacement cost.
And also thanks for the engine and head gasket info. YES, I am aware of this issue. But am looking to learn more, and the differences between the 2.2 and the 2.5... and the different mid to late 90 wagons and what they came with.
All this would be very helpful.
Say, I'm looking at a '98 Outback with a 2.5... and a '98 Legacy wagon with a 2.2. What are the performance and function and maintenance/upkeep/cost issues and gas mileage differences, etc
How about if someone tells me that they had the head gasket on their '98 Outback replaced at 100K... and now the car has 140K? Were there upgraded head gaskets that solved the problem? Is this a one-time fix... or will it keep coming up?
Thanks a ton, Greg
Having said that my guess is that a 98 with 140K and the repair done at 100K would have a newer design.
There's a reason insurance rates are high for teen males driving Mustang GTs.
I have a `09 Legacy 2.5i Limited, just had the 7,500 mile service done including tire rotation... sidewall bubble on rear passenger side tire.
I know the tire needs to be replaced, taking it to a shop tomorrow to see if it's a defect or if it was caused by a road hazard...
I have Yokohamas that came with the car when I bought it about 8 months ago.
How can I be sure the company is telling me the truth? What are the telltale signs of a "defect" compared to a "hazard" bulge?
Thanks,
Pilot
But, no tire company or dealer that I've ever had contact with has admitted to a tire defect... In their opinion, it just doesn't happen.. :surprise:
Assuming no hazard evidence, and once they've decided that you have no claim, you can [non-permissible content removed] loud and long, and possibly they will cover it partially under some sort of "goodwill" claim. But, they won't likely ever admit to a defect..
Just my personal experience..
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Cheers!
Paul
The shop I'm bringing it to is an authorized Yokohama dealer. I called Yokohama Customer Service as soon as I got home and they referred me to a place nearby, within 10 minutes of driving. The shop told me they'll take it off the rim and inspect it both inside and out and check it for any "hazards" that could have potentially caused it, and failing that, they may consider it a defect. The inspection is at no cost to me.
The Subaru Dealer nearby quoted me with about $275 for the one tire's installation, balancing, including tax. I'm hoping this authorized dealer can do slightly better.
Worst case scenario, I get new tires. Best case scenario, I get new tires for free or very low cost to myself. I'll call my insurance company and see if they can do anything with it.
I don't think I saw any gouges in the sidewall when I did a brief inspection of it, I'll double check it again once it's light out tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the rim was clean, too.
It's funny, when I left the service department, I swear my eye went right to that tire and I saw the bubble, it's like I never noticed it before hand. Part of me thinks that perhaps the service tech driving it into the shop pranged off something while putting it on the lift, but of course, I can't prove that. It just seems so *noticable* that I can't see how I missed it... I check the tire pressure once a week in my cars.
Thanks again for the information. What do you think the best plan-of-action is tomorrow? Barter for a pro-rated tire and cut my losses?
Regards,
Pilot
In an 'unrelated' incident, I also got the 'Check Engine' light recently. A read-out of the error code indicates problems with the oxygen sensor(s). I am almost tempted to think that the smell simply is a result of a faulty oxygen sensor and, therefore, an insufficient combustion of gasoline.
Could it be something else? I was about to burn a small sample of every fluid in the car to see if I can find out which one the smell might come from. I don't know what the sweet-ish smell of coolant is that people with head-gasket problems report. Could it be that? Any other ideas?
Thanks so much in advance! Cheers - MM
have Subaru owners noticed any particular place on the vehicle that seems prone to rust?
I have anti-corrosion sprays but don't want to go wild spraying the stuff everywhere under the chassis.
I had the plasti-chrome lettering on the back hatch start to oxidize, though it was more a loss of shine. I'm not sure if they were coated metal or plastic.
Certain parts of the exhaust - like hanger, were starting to rust also. Also some brake parts.
Mostly surface rust. They salt the roads here big time. I also drove it on the beach several times, getting salt water on the undercarriage.
Fun, but a mess to clean up later.
The only rust spot is on the top at the rear screw on the roof protector. When it finally gets warm enough up here, I'll unscrew the offending screw, lift the protector, scrape the rust off, put on rust stuff and repaint the silver dollar sized area.
There is only 118,000 miles on the OBW (semi-retired since we bought a 2008 Tribeca for our main vehicle). Plus we tow it behind the motor home. But I'm now eyeing the 2010 Outbacks.
Greetings from our 2 Subaru family. Our 2000 OB Ltd has finally started to show its age after 9 years and 115k of faithful service. After 2 incidents of the CEL coming on (Cylinder 4 misfire), the dealer took a look. Here's the report:
- Valve adjustment needed to avoid engine misfire ($500)
- Headgasket leaking, apparently oil on one side, coolant on the other (I'm a little concerned about this diagnosis. ($2500, incl valve adjustment)
- Front wheelbearings need to be replaced. It's been making a clunky noise for a long time, but never diagnosed properly. ($750)
Of course, dealer quotes are usually generous. So I wanted to know if one of you has a suggestion for a more affordable, yet trustworthy,mechanic in the San Francisco Bay Area. We actually have a 3rd car (MINI!!), so I can easily drop the Subie off anywhere and leave it to be repaired.
Then there is the 'Am I doing the right thing by spending up to $3000 on a car worth about double that' question. Should I trade in an pick up a 2009 as that model is on the way out? Or even a 2010?
Would appreciate advice on a mechanic in the SF Bay area, and whether I can reasonably expect this car to have a number of worry-free years if I spend some big $$$ on it.
:sick:
Thank you for your responses
Most consumer mags I've reviewed saying that if repairs cost half the value of the device, it's time to get new one.
Wrt new OB, if you want turbo, '09 is last year you can get one. '10 also appears to simplify the AWD system (planetary diff is gone in all in all but H-6 engine version).
The '10 CVT, while impressive in design, is new. '10 has more interior room and is remarkably more like the Forester.
You might try driving an '09 XT-L as well as an Outback.
Haha; of course they will say that.... they want you to keep consuming! :P
If you really like what you are driving, then it may be worth investing half the vehicle's value in repairs.
But keep in mind there may be other problems lurking. Cars wear out.
I had my '83 Toyota Camry until '92, and in '92 its paint was badly fading, engine was burning oil, suspension was nearly worn out, various parts rusting. Though it was maintained regularly, that car was done. However, other than two timing belts and disk rotors, it was a solid reliable piece of transportation.
I keep my cars until they are beyond my ability to repair or our family out grows them.
I had a1985 Chrysler Laser the had 196,000 miles before it threw a rod. I overhauled that engine at 176,000. I also had a 1992 Nissan Sentra. I donated it to charity for the Forester. It had 229,000 miles and no engine work.
Parts do wear out. As long as they can be replaced, you can keep a vehicle for decades. In 1975, I read an article in Popular Mechanics about a man who had an Internation Harvester truck that had 1.5 million miles.
I am hoping to get the award for the Forester with the most miles. Maybe your Outback and my Forester can celebrate our 20th B-day together.
I think there is a quarter-million-mile club for Subarus.
However, I never had any of the mechanical issues you mentioned in your post. Only had to replace parts as they wore out, like tires, oil. Water pump finally went about 225k. Not much really wore out.
Not sure how long the newer ones will last...
In this case, replacement of head gaskets, etc., is all normal maintenance. It is labor intensive (though not difficult) and therefore expensive if a shop performs the work, but with as few of miles as is on that car, I think it is short-sighted to consider replacing it at this juncture. That is assuming it continues to meet the needs of the owner.
Far more than $3500 will be spent on a new car in the first year of ownership alone...
I tracked my mileage for 9 years on my '98 model, and my average was 25.1mpg.
I have a 2005 auto OB with 100k Miles. Several months ago I stare hearing a humming noise which appears to be coming form the back of the car. When I accelerate the car vibrates and the noise gets higher. I thought it was the tires so I rotated them, then I thou it was the back wheel bearing s and had them replaced. The noise is still there. I took to a mechanic friend of mine and he figure out a play or loose end of a back drive shaft. So to prove the point, he removed the drive shaft from the middle the car, and showed me the slack at the end tip of it. The car now operated at FWD. There is no noise no vibration. Has anyone experienced a similar experience? I think the car should not have a bad drive shaft at 100K and normal driving. What would case such of failure? Is there a problem in driving the car in FWD mode? Thanks.
That said, if your mechanic is wrong about it being the drive shaft then it could also be the rear differential. But, because it causes vibration in the car, I think he is right about it being the drive shaft. I do not think a problem in the differential would cause the vibration - that is caused by something spinning out of balance - though it could cause the noise.
As for the P0420, I could not say with certainty, but since the code is tripped as a result of a reading differential, and the gradual fouling of the sensors will result in decreased sensitivity, I suspect you will have more luck replacing the upstream sensor. If you clear the code with a handheld and it manages to stay off for a cycle or two, you can probably get the inspection without resolving the P0420 code right away. I had two successful inspections while the code was recurring, both times having reset it a day or two before the test. Interestingly, the tailpipe emissions were always spot on, so I have to think the cat was doing its job....
The car runs well at idle and down the road with the +2's. The upgrade from regular plugs to +2's was as far as I was willing to go. For me the +4's were overkill and expensive.
Oddly, the Bosch +4 plugs were actually less expensive than the NGK platinum plugs. I did not care too much one way or the other, considering how infrequently they need to be replaced. Again, though, they were "too hot" for the Subaru engine, and it would not run with them in it. Probably a good thing you did not opt for them.
The car definitely has a downstream sensor, but I am not sure where. I want to say it is located somewhere near where the exhaust passes the transmission, on the top, and difficult to access.
I can get to the downstream by disconnecting the flange behind the rear converter. The other is easy access (at least to me).
In March of 2006 (@ about 205,000) I replaced the catalytic converter as well as an oxygen sensor.
I will replace the upstream sensor. The converters should be okay since they have 42,000 miles of bent valve exhaust and 100 miles of burnt antifreeze running through it.
What do you think of my approach?