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Wait a minute.... antifreeze... from your head gasket issue? Ugh... that stuff will foul an oxygen sensor in no time at all. I think replacement of the upstream sensor, and perhaps both, will be very helpful if they were exposed to antifreeze. How is your fuel economy right now? If the oxygen sensors are not providing good feedback, your economy is likely depressed somewhat compared to "the old days."
I lived with that no-start problem for a few years before it finally disappeared after replacing those sensors due to the rough start & idle problem you described. I think they were somehow related, though I do not fully know. I was, however, thrilled to know I could rely on my car when running errands!
My wife connected her Ipod classic to the Aux and soon thereafter it died. The ipod was pretty old so figured it was time.
We each bought Ipod shuffles and have used them in each of our subarus on and off for a few months. Both died.
Has anyone else had an issue with their Ipods?
I do know that Ipods usually last about one week past warranty period so it may not be anything to do with the Subaru
Cheers
Graham
While I was underneath the car, I realized I need some boots for the tie rods and the curbside half shaft. There was a lot of oil on the bottom of the car. I see a drop or two when I leave for work in the morning. Can I steam clean the engine and look for the sepage?
Also, do I need that cover on the bottom of the car? During an oil change years ago someone cut a hole in it. Over time it started breaking apart.
My friendly service manager (one of two I know at Hillsboro Subaru, who have been straightforward and honest) discovered all 4 wheels were out of balance, ranging from 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce. The worst tires were on the front.
He also mentioned other customers from Les Schwab and elsewhere had come in to have tires balanced, and had gone away happy.
Ironically, I've rarely found a tire shop that can properly balance tires: balancing goes to their lowest paid people who, from personal observations, have their minds on something else. :sick:
There is a vibration at highway speeds. I probably need a rotation and balance. This will be done when I get the boots on the tie rod done (this repair is beyond my ability to repair). Got to know you limits.
Probable Causes: Leaking or Blocked Injector, Ignition system malfunction affecting one cylinder, Engine mechanical condition, and Valve adjustment needed.
I will start by replacing the wires. The wires were replaced at 148,000 miles by a Subaru dealer five (5) years ago. Do wires have a life expectancy? I want to take care of the misfire because it may a contributor to the P0420 code.
Over the last 2 fill ups, I have been averaging 24.3 miles per gallon.
Any suggestions or comments anyone?
In the order of cheapest fix first:
For Fuel: Fuel filter, fuel pump.
For Spark: plugs (done), plug wires, ignition coil.
That's my experience.
You could do worse than putting some "Top Engine Cleaner" in the fuel tank. Subaru in Australia do this as part of service at 20,000km intervals and it seemed to make a big difference to injectors without expensive strip down and clean. They would also leave a second bottle in car with instructions to add it at next fuel fill-up.
Not sure what the US equivalent would be but suspect it is a detergent type additive as it also seemed to decoke and carbon build up. Plugs would be very clean after the two bottles. Incidentally, it's worth using premium unleaded with detergent additive according to Subaru.
Cheers
Graham
You can buy that from a dealership, though. Quality Subaru sent me some in a tune-up kit.
Or your average parts store will have Techron.
I opted for their second choice (Lucas). I am making a trip over the weekend and did not want to try something while I was on the road.
Also, I eliminated the spark wires. I swapped the wires with cylinder 3 (both ends) and still got a misfire on cylinder 1. At idle it feels like it is missing. I am getting close to taking it to the dealer. Maybe their computer can give me more details than the Actron scanner (which I am thinking about buying).
Keep those suggestions coming.
Jim
"MMO contains mineral spirits, 30 wt baseoil, red dye and wintergreen fragrance."
you can read more about other kinds of oils, additives, and Ed Kollin, the chemist, here:
http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/savvy_aviator_52_thinking_about_oil_chang- es_196730-1.html
( this was also discussed in the oil additive topic forum at Edmunds )
Thanks....
Jim
Forester. The manual says to remove 9 screws. I removed 7 (3 on top, 2 middle,
and 2 bottom (not the two holding the 2 sections of the glove box together which did not make any difference.)
However, while the left side of the glove box is free, the right side is not free.
What step am I missing and where are the 2 other screws that the manual says must be removed?
This is the first time I'm admitting this - please keep it to yourself. Thanks.
This car has made me sick for months due to chemicals that have come into the cabin. Chemicals are related to the heater box running. The chemicals that I have been breathing are in part (as I don't have enough information to determine ALL of the chemicals) coolant, refrigerant, and some lanolin blend oil, none of which should be breathed in per the MSDS sheets. My Dr. even wrote a letter to them. They obviously DON'T CARE that their customers are getting sick in their cars.
This car is a major defect that they are willing to take back only as a "trade assist", which means I would still have to pay thousands and thousands for another new like car. I could not see out of the windshield to drive with this car and they do not consider that a "substantial defect".
SUBARU is not customer conscious.
I have been dealing with this guy Rick at Subaru of America. Obviously he is a lawyer, and my lawyer said it would be fine to deal with him. WRONG. This guy was just trolling me out without offering anything.
Originally, in our first conversation, he LIED to me. Now 2 months later, I still have my lemon and nothing is happening. I talked to a friend who happen to have 2 Avalanches go bad on him. It was not problem to get the vehicle swapped out. It is sickening that, despite STILL being sick from the chemicals in the FORESTER, I have to FIGHT TOOTH AND NAIL with Subaru when the avalanche people made things easy. On to my next step...gotta get rid of this death trap.
Ie If you get a lemon, you will be screwed with this company!!!! They do not care about their customers.
Has anyone had to deal with Subaru on a lemon before?
Time to start a media blitz. The internet listens. Then on to the next action step...
Do you mean that after the screws (7 or 9) are out you just pry/manage the right side of the glove box and plastic that wraps around the bottom right?
Went to my Subaru dealer today and after noticing the sign "$99 for a cabin filter change" asked the service mgr about my problem. He came out to the car and said that he didn't really know but thought that maybe there were clips holding the plastic part and it could be forced out.
I'm unwilling to do this since my wife, who dearly loves this car, would never let me forget it if I bent or broke some of the interior!!
And re: scooby... there are no instructions for a 2006 forester.
I've got a 2009 Forester and have been subject to the same chemicals. Fortunately to me, they are just the "new car" smell.
I wish I'd paid more attention to exactly what she did. I was not expecting her to remove the glove box after I took out the 7 screws. I couldn't get the darn thing off and assumed that she wouldn't either. So I wasn't watching as closely as I should have. The whole glove box came off. I asked her about it just now and she said she just pulled it straight back "firmly but gently". I suspect next time I'll remove the screws and ask her to show me her technique. Maybe this needs a woman's touch. Once off, the filter is easy and the glove box is easy to put back - but taking it off is not intuitive. That filter gets filthy quickly too.
The toughest part is asking your wife to help with a car repair - its like admitting defeat.
I'm sorry for your friend, however, I have NO allergies. I am, or was, a healthy person. I have never had a problem with any new car I have ridden in. In fact, I had this car from the end of June through October with no issues. So, this problem, has nothing to do with me and everything to do with the design of the car, or failure thereof.
Running the heater was the start of all the problems. And as people on here did not post back that they were having the same window film problems, I still believe it is something that is fairly singular to my car. Or, those cars which may have the ehater box manufactured at the same place/time. Or, those with what SOA originally called, the "Impreza 08 heater boxes".
Why Subaru is dragging their heals with this Sick Forester is beyond me. I have been very patient as this problem started way back at the beginning of November.
Think "Customer Service"!
What are your symptoms? Do you have hives, chronic cough, or some other symptom? I have not heard of others in such dire straights as you.
1. Open all your windows (or the moonroof, if you have one)
2. Make sure A/C is off
3. Put heater system on the highest temperature
4. Let run at full or nearly full fan for 15 minutes.
The idea is to heat the gaskets and other components to assist their outgassing.
Subaru has reported that the outgassing diminishes over time - this process will greatly speed it up.
If you get deposits on the windshield, either Stoners or Megriuers window cleaners will remove them.
On reassembly of unit, boots to steering rack replaced, half shafts replaced with reman units. All wheel bearings replaced with full synthetic grease.
After a 1000 miles, a springing noise developed which was traced to passenger side half shaft unit being excessive sloppy on the half shaft output shaft from differential section of transaxle. Also noted more play on drivers side.
Any one else out there run into this problem and if so, what did you find to rectify the problem? We have replaced these shafts with A1 cardone Select new units. 66-7055. Time will tell if that resolves it. New units are larger in size and much heavier than OEM units. I suspect OEM units may be too small for service.
Older service units had developed similar problems over past time. This one being the 4th one required further inspection after seeing a common case come up.
I drove to New York and back with the Lucas stuff in the tank. With the Lucas, I went 459.9 miles on 18.45 gallons. That yielded a 24.92 mpg rating. Prior to that I went 531.5 miles on 22.18 gallons. That yield was 23.96 mpg.
The engine runs a little smoother. Though there is a slight miss from time to time. Also, for the last few months, I have notice what I think is piston slap or some knocking at idle. It disappears above 2400 rpms. After the engine is running for more than 20 minutes, I do not hear it at idle anymore. It does not come back unless the engine has been off for 8+ hours. Today when I started the car up from being off all night, I expected to hear it as usual, but for the first time it was not there. It was the first time after sitting overnight I did not hear it first thing in the morning.
Tomorrow I will have Advance Auto reset the CEL(code P0301) and see what Lucas did for me. The next step will be to swap injectors or pump air into cylinder 1 and see if it leaks out. Maybe the valves get bent when the timing was off a tooth.
I have seen some complaining on the drive by wire systems; wonder if this has anything to do with the engine performing this way? High octane gas makes no difference, so it's not the fuel.
Acceleration produces a small shift in engine and trans position in relation to the exhaust system. Don't rule out that source yet.
Don't know if it's the heat shield, but it definitely sounds like something loose and rattling..
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However, if it was the crankshaft off, it may be more significant because the sprocket is much smaller (and therefore each tooth represents more degrees off on the timing). Just guessing here though....
I am wondering if you might be slowly losing coolant from the heater core or refrigerant from the a/c system. Losses in either of those systems no matter how slow they might be would have me looking right at the evap core or the heater core. The antifreeze and 134a refrigerant will do a number on us if in a breathable vapor form. The real fun part is getting right down to exactly what and where the leak is. This is not a problem that is slowly resolved and will take a good bit of time, patience and experience from the repair tech to correct. He/she will have to be able to carefully think out everything you explain to him and be a good detective. Something few mechanics know how to do.
I suggest you consult with a good a/c tech for the sniffer test for refrigerant. He will need a very sensitive trade tool for this job. One who specializes in rebuilding a/c systems may be best. Good luck on this, since very few people want to pay the real good techs anything. Most techs would rather spend time on easier problems. Here, I have the power to ground and take my time to correct such hard line problems.
If it still fails to correct after a few miles.....100-1000, get ready to do a valve job!
If the engine is reset, fuel economy will decrease until the engine re-learns how to minimize its fuel usage.
I will reset the codes tomorrow to see what Lucas did for me.
Can I steam clean the engine and look for oil sepage?
Also, do I need that cover on the bottom of the car? During an oil change years ago someone cut a hole in it. Over time it started breaking apart.
I wonder if there are any tech service bullentins about this problem from Subaru. I would be looking directly at the knock sensor and related computer circuits involved. Also, the service tech needs to take a ride with you driving the car so you can recreate the problem for him since he can not make it happen. That would be my next recommendation.