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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • sangerboysangerboy Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for the response. Timing belt is intact, car has 260K so it is on it's 5th one. I enjoy working on the car so I've done all the work myself. Fuel pressure is good. There is no spark, coil checks out fine. Could be the ignitor, going to check the relay to the ECU, I find it odd that there is no power to the OBD II connector. The speedometer and tach (both controlled by the ECU) dropped instantly to 0 when the engine quit, other gauges continue to function normally. I agree everything else should be checked before replacing a part that costs 600 to $700.00. I think the ECU is incapable of displaying the CEL (back to the OBD diagnostic port having no power) please continue to share thoughts, everything is helpful to make sure I'm not skipping anything.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Probably a freak occurence that won't likely happen again. I'd leave it be.

    If you wanted to file a complaint with NHTSA, use this link:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

    If they see a pattern of lots of people having the same problem, they could force a recall.
  • forester_incvforester_incv Member Posts: 10
    Are there any known issues with the Subaru automatic tranny that destroy the fluid? Just did a drain on mine today (20K miles), what came out was clear but very brown/yellow, strong odor, not sure I'd say burned but it really stank. Car was never run low on fluid, but anytime I checked it the last couple years it was always brown on the stick, I never really ever saw red fluid (like Dexron red) in this car. I actually assumed that the non standard tranny fluid called for by Subaru was some new type juice and NOT red. WRONG, picked up my first quart at the dealer today, saw red juice and decided right away to do a plug drain. The tranny had started shifting a bit slushy, the fresh 3.75 qt add has fixed it for now. But why did my 20K miles Forester trash its fluid so soon? Car is driven easy, no abuse, great car overall. Thanks....
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Does anyone know what purpose the plastic skirt/shield/shoud/cover that is underneath the front of the engine compartment? You have to remove it to change the oil. Can I get rid of it?

    Some years ago, one of the oil change shops cut a hole in it. And since then it has been falling apart.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    It's probably to improve the aerodynamics and provide basic engine protection from road debris.

    The optional front and back guards do a similar thing, but are made out of either steel or aluminum depending on who the supplier is.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Very good. Your mileage tells me none of our fleet units have reached that....yet. Top one is 240K, The 03 is currently racking 5K a month, at 215K, won't be long. So there goes the historical help in that old brain. I always say, after 200K, anything goes and this is where the pros get separated from the real pros!

    Briefly back to timing, I am assuming all of the idlers and water pump have been changed at least once. If not, and still good, they need to be. That timing belt has a 105K service interval. Might want to save some money later! 1st change, belt and seals. 2nd one everything in front goes.

    Second thought. I have seen the coils, aka ignitors have cracks on the intake manifold side on them in junk yard units as low as 100K. I recall taking electrical resistance readings to be iffy in determining go, no go. I recall being able to read secondary, but primary readings for some reason read infinite on an operating unit. They are driven by the ECU.

    Your thinking on ECU seems sound from what I can see. Do you have a professional grade wiring diagram? Too many times in a Chilton's/Haynes have very limited or poor diagrams. Mitchell maybe at the library or All data on the web? The dirty dealer just might have a book up for sale still. If they do, and you plan to keep this car, get it! We have one on the 300K mazda 323. Has been handy a few times already. It has been worth the $50 for a few pages already!

    There must be something ahead supplying power to the ECU. Many leads to sort out. I would resolve this question first before I spent any money on the ECU. Which makes a good wiring diagram a must. I have seen fuse holders get weak and intermitant in high mileage units. Connectors fail in fuse boxes. Anywhere there is a mechanical connection there is potential for failure after a lot of miles.

    Good information seems to be your biggest service problem at this point.

    After you re-establish power to ECU and have no spark still, you have 2 options, change the coil out with a known good unit, or try to take a signal from the ECU with a good fast oscilloscope.

    keep me posted, you, I and 1 other out on Edmunds here are running these higher miles!

    If all else fails, there is a guy in Zachary, LA that repairs ECU's for a living. Know of him, but have not had to use him yet and hope to keep it that way!
  • hypster908hypster908 Member Posts: 2
    Mileage clocks in at 244,705

    Power steering fluid levels are okay.

    Thanks for your help.
  • sangerboysangerboy Member Posts: 5
    Got it fixed, it ended up being the SBF-2 in the main fuse/relay box. That controls power from the battery to the ECU, main relay and fuel pump relay. It looked OK but on a more thorough eval proved to be faulty so it was not letting any power get through to the computer. All is good, shooting for 300K miles next. (You're exactly right, the Hayne's and Clymer manuals' electric diagrams were not very detailed, took a lot of old fashioned sleuthing to get it figured out)
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    All is good, shooting for 300K miles next.

    But something probably blew the fuse. I would certainly carry a spare. Does the fuel pump have a separate concatenated fuse in addition to the one that blew?

    Are there any signs of frayed insulation on wires that are near metal?

    While a fuse can fail on its own, it is quite unusual.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Behind the cranksprocket is something that looks like a bicycle gear plate. What is it? Mine was showing some wear on it. The points were shinny.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Coffee has not set in yet.....but I recall yours being new enough to be an OBD unit. You are looking at the beginnings of the signal generation for everything from ignition spark, fuel injection, air mixture control and so on. Look right above that and you will see the crankshaft sensor that picks up the magnetism from those points to make that signal.

    There is also another sensor on one or both of the camshafts. Be careful around them. They not cheap, $50 and up to priceless depending on year make and model. Priceless meaning if one can be found!
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    My compliments on your electrical tracing abilities. Getting into that fuse block requires a lot of care. Must be nice to keep that $700 in your pocket as well! I assume the SBF-2 to be some kind of terminal strip everything attaches to.

    Reminds me of an old tv I worked on years ago. Hard headed back then. Learned a lot as well. Screen kept going red every so often. Had the problem down to one circuit, but could not isolate the component. Must have spent 120 hours looking for it. Finally ripped the entire circuit putting in new parts one by one. Pulled one power resistor. On the back side, there it was, a small crack in the housing causing that thing to open up when it got hot enough. These "now you see it, now you don't's" will drive any good tech nuts. But a lot of good ole sleuthing over time and a few cold ones will always crack the case. Then again, I learned to finally trash a few sets back then! It just comes to a point of no return. Guess I turned to cars at that point where you can rip out the entire assembly and let someone else deal with it! Thank you A1 Cardone!

    Next tip for any one else following this post, mark your info that there is a failure possibility in that fuse panel. Will make your life easier when you see this come up!

    Getting ready to drop a lot of $$$$ on a new Toyota. Guess it is time to pay up after the last one, still here at almost 24 years. Something about parts availabilty!

    Happy 4th!
  • mikesdelsolmikesdelsol Member Posts: 2
    Just got a 2006 Impreza 2.5i. Manual tranny. Just lookin for some non bank breaking upgrades, any Ideas?
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Yup, don't mess with her! Let me explain. The engines in these girls can put out a high rpm very quickly! But the cost is too high when things go breaking, like a flying clutch disc from racing.

    I am aware of one guy blowing a tranny. Had to get a new one from the dealer. If $ 4-5K is not a bank break for you, have fun! If it is, behave.

    All the Japanese girls I have dealt with during the years can give you grief right back if you give them too much hell. So I go easy on mine, until I really need her.

    Recently, while on LSU campus doing the speed limit, we got hit by a guy. Road rage. He ran in a late model GMC, we got most of the license plate. He had almost a whole block head start on me, when I realized he was not going to a parking lot to exchange info. At 240K, a 2.2 liter woke up and gave him hell to get those digits. He had to really get too dangerous crazy for me to break pursuit after 5 city blocks. I was not going to be the cause another accident, so we ceased. I doubt he will ever pick on another Subaru after that!

    JUnk yard sheet metal, grille and headlamps went for $100, bumper for another $40. still need a little paint. I doubt he will get by that cheap either when his gets fixed paying for late model parts, not to mention if they catch him, he has a felony charge to face.

    Why do I tell you this. Most traffic does not really need for you to get crazy. if you do, it will cost you somehow. A wise person uses the power they have carefully and knows when to use it. As for these American truck drivers who think they own the road, they better think again. One hard side hit into them with a 3000 pound car in a t bone, they are going to get rolled! See it everytime!

    Oh, if you have been reading, those of us who do behave are pushing way up to 300K so far in this forum. One trick is to keep those rpm's low!
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I am beginning to think that is where my problem maybe. When I reset the timing belt (off on tooth), I notice that it had shinny end that was evidence that it was rubbing something(I think the belt tensioner with the piston). If it is worn down enough, the crankshaft sensor may not be picking up change in mag field under certain circumstances.

    Can I lower the sensor? I will check with Subaru for a replacement.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    No. Leave the sensor as mounted. It is possible that the magnet may have lost some magnetism after lots of high mileage/heat, but no one has had that problem yet on any of these units. It has happen though on other models/brands. Not sure at this time what kind of problem we are dealing with? Misfire? Not likely from this part of the system. But like I always say, after 200K anything goes and this is where the pros get separated from the real pros. Some weird stuff happens also! Is the fit of the crank gear tight on the crankshaft?

    If you are still questioning signal pickup here, get a scope if you know how to use one and check it for signal.

    Timing off a tooth, on a crank, on cam? late or early? Not going to cause a misfire with that. Just like the old carb systems, you will see the problems in lack of performance. It will either run, lousy or not at all. Assuming no valves dancing on piston tops! One tooth will not do that.... usually.

    Shiny spot on tooth, it has too be clear that it has been hitting something? If so, it would have marks on it, what? Most dealers are totally lost before 200K in service. rare they see units with that kind of miles. The local dealer here gets info from me on those! Check the dealer exploded view to see if there is a missing spacer between gear and pump. I doubt there is one.

    Dang memory, trying to remember this car. Is this the same one with the compression readings that are uneven? Once in a blue moon misfire code? If so, pull that coil and check the underside of it for flash marks. If possible, try substituting it with another one with a known performance. Aging spark plugs go up in resistance which would aggravate a flash over problem on any coil. I had a weird occasional misfire on a 86 Toyota Tercel that drove me nuts a while back. Turned out to be a flash over problem on the coil on the back side of it. New coil made her purr nicely after that.

    If this is the same car, a valve would only have to hang up once in a blue moon to throw that stupid code out again. I have one in the fleet right now, a 97 that tosses a code once in a blue moon. It will slowly get worse, that is when I will deal with it. No sense chasing something until it really comes to a head. Monitor it, watch it to see what it is doing. When it gets bad enough, you have enough info to nail the problem. We call it a watch status. Not uncommon for the higher mileage units to have a couple of them at any given time.

    Just the nature of the mechanical beast as OBD II tries to make something old be perfect all of the time. Not realistic.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    I notice that it had shinny end that was evidence that it was rubbing something(I think the belt tensioner with the piston).Are we speaking of the piston in the hydraulic tensioner?

    Not sure what this part above meant. BUT, An after thought came up, the timing belt hydraulic tensioners do become a problem after 2 belt changes or 210K miles. That could cause some slack in the timing belt. Which could create a fluctuation in operation. Doubt it to be enough to cause a code to toss out. But who knows? Just a thought, might be worth something.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Yes, we are talking about my 2000 Forester. It throws out a cyl. 1 misfire code, that prevents me from getting an inspections. I am still averaging 24 mpg. How bad can this car be. I wish the state would appreciate that my car is better on the environment that some cars rolling out of new car lots now.

    I checked the coil pack no flash marks of carbon scaring. Plugs are brand new, swapped cables, problem did not move. Tried Lucas additive, code P0301 still popped up. I do not know where to get a good coil pack to try out.

    The crankshaft sprocket has on the back something that looks like a bicycle gear. The tips are shiny, which tells me it was rubbing something. The teeth of the sprocket will be shiny (that is what the belt ride on). I think that the hydraulic tensioner pulley (which showed slight wear) was coming in contact with the gear spokes.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Okay, got me back on track, come to think of it I could have clicked on your user name and got the history of posts. Yesterday was one of those days.

    For starters, if that is the original tensioner, at almost 300K, it is past due for tossing knowing the few I have dealt with. Check Rockauto.com for the best price.

    Get the gear to compare to a new one at an auto parts store. If it looks different, replace it. Keep the old one for now, tag it: not a confirmed defective part yet. Wish I could physically look at it. Could still have a magnetism problem with it, but I suspect problems from this area to be less likely. Usually it is go/no go.

    Now, lets return to the coil. No external flashovers visible. Being a multiple coil pack, I am wondering if it is breaking down internally. If it is original, I highly suspect it to be: Years ago, 100K was doing good. The Toy had 180K, but the misfire problem had been around since 150K. As you gather, you are almost twice that now. Maybe there is a wrecked unit in a junk yard. I am seeing them new available at Rockauto for about $150, ouch. which means people are buying them: does not mean they are failing though. Educated guess, based on working on too many during the years. I would say somewhere between 50- 75% of being right. That low, because Subaru quality has proved me wrong before, but the 2000 if made in USA is also most likely made in USA parts. Reason why the next new car is coming from Japan. This is what I would look at real hard.

    Hopefully, but not likely, a valve is sticking from gunk or beginning to burn/warp. This may have to be ruled out over time. Good oil and that valve job a while back should rule that out. Compression readings do not help the problem from way back then. I wonder what those readings are now.

    Another thought would be to see if you could lay your hands on a real time code reading system like Autotap.com has. You need to be able to see what else the computer might be able to tell you that is not tossing out a code.

    From what I recall, the code comes up within a 100 mile run, which forces it to be dealt with.

    Yup, I agree with you about emissions. I am still amused by the rebates placed out there. 86 Toy may run well, but I seriously doubt it would pass an OBD II computer pain in the butt.
  • jasvicjasvic Member Posts: 18
    Hi All,

    I'm leasing an 09 Impreza premium.... Since day one there has been a lot of vibration in the shift knob, even when stopped and idling. Is this normal for the model or is something up?

    Thanks in advance
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Somethings up! Everything I have driven new, excluding Subaru's never had that problem.

    I suspect the clutch assembly or something is out of balance if the engine is running fine. No codes being tossed out? Like a misfire code?
  • smudgejetsmudgejet Member Posts: 11
    Is replacing a (passenger side) seat belt a do-it-yourself project?

    My 2-yr old lab/mix decided it was better than his chew toy.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    My '08 has a pretty pronounced vibration in the gearshift... at idle.. in neutral..

    I chalk it up to the flat-four engine... which isn't the smoothest thing going..

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  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Yes it is in most cases. generally the retractor assembly is located inside the door trim. You may not like the price though from the dealer though. You may wish to check the junk yards. seat belts tend to be something that does not change much during the years. Be ready to compare what is left of yours with any donor prospects. Make sure you bolt back to the same spots the OEM unit came from.

    Also, there is JC Whitney you can google. One of our units has belts from there and they have worked just fine for the past 150K.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    I thought I would shed a bit more light into this topic. I agree it is most likely something clutch assembly forward. When H-4 engines were smaller, the differences in piston weights were much closer together. the tolerances in weights even though allowed in percentage of weight of what is accepted versus what is rejected being the same. Hang on while I speak Greek. You get two opposing pistons with one weighing in on the upper tolerance scale and the other on the lower end....vibration. Now for some simple numbers, but not very realistic. Lets say the acceptable ideal weight is 10 ounces. The acceptable tolerance is +/- 10 percent. Now you could have a piston weighing in on high side at 11 ounces and the low at 9! You got it, shake, rattle or roll.

    Generally this does not happen often, but it does. H-4's are more prone to problems with this especially if someone was sleeping on the job when they were supposed to be balancing! Why? The opposing piston is the counter weight. Where as in another configuation, crankshaft throws and sometimes additional counterweight shafts deal with this problem more. You still have to balance them as needed.

    So far, there are 3 Subaru's currently in service that have not had this problem. 1 at 170K, another 215K and the last at 240K. Engine sizes 2.2, 2.5L. Neither have any in the past service/ownership. But when it comes to any engine being assembled, it can happen.

    My biggest concern about an engine like this is overall lifespan reduction of the engine and when that heaviest piston begins to toss out a misfire code with the addition of any other varibles that become a problem.

    Not sure what you could do to resolve this issue. dealer would probably blow it off as being "normal.' I would not buy that answer, but recourse is hard to prove short of a complete teardown. That is not worth it.
  • smudgejetsmudgejet Member Posts: 11
    Thanks,

    I'll check around at the junkyards and with JC Whitney for the best price.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    A new seat belt is about $300-$350. Be careful replacing it - newer models have explosive pre-tensioners built into the assembly. I would disconnect the battery just to be on the safe side.
  • picachupicachu Member Posts: 7
    Just purchased the car two weeks ago. This week I noticed the A/C cycles between real cold and lukewarm every 20 to 30 seconds. Real annoying to say the least. The cycling occurs while driving at all speeds and while parked. No automatic climate control and the system is set to recirculate at the max cold setting. Just hit 700 miles today.

    Just wondering if anyone with an 09 has had the same experience. Will be taking the car to the dealer as soon as I can make an appointment.

    Thanks in advance for any information.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Interesting.... Considering that I'm half-way through a 24-month lease on the car, not too worried.. ;)

    Actually, the more irritating thing is the throttle.. It hangs on to revs way too long, making smooth shifts difficult... If you wind it out to 4000-4500 rpms before shifting, then no problem... But, otherwise, it's pretty jerky... There was a TSB, but it made only a minimal improvement to the problem..

    I won't be sad to give this car back, next year... :)

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  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 Forester S (bought August 2001), auto, 71k miles, original owner. For a while I have been noticing drops of fluid between the front wheels, so today when I had the car at the dealer for an oil change, I asked them to look into it. Apparently the motor needs new head gaskets and is leaking oil. They said since it's not leaking coolant, the repair is not covered by the Subaru 100k warranty for head gaskets. They also want to replace the timing belt, at this time, and the total cost is $1850. The car has been maintained regularly at the dealer, never towed anything, never abused it, and the head gasket problem is known. Is there any way I can get Subaru to cover this, at least partially? Which number should I call?

    Daniel
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Get away from that dealer!!!! Last time I checked the service interval for that belt is 105K miles. Second, if the car runs well, you do not have a head gasket problem. The known problem is the valve cover gaskets! Just clean the area up and re torque the valve cover gaskets. Use a torque wrench. H-4 engines have always had this problem. Be it Volkswagen, Porsche or Subies.

    We have been doing that for some time on all of ours and we are pushing 250K on one unit and more than that on another by the end of the year.

    Too many dealers do not give it to you straight. Ask questions if in doubt. Get a repair manual and learn how to fix or be ready to pay lots of money for a simple repair job.

    Exactly why I like to buy a car and factory manuals, and the dealer never sees it again!
  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    girlcarbuilder - thank you for your response. The mileage replacement for timing belt is indeed 105K miles, but i think the manual specifies that or 7 years, whichever comes first (manual is in the car at the dealer so i can't check). Mine will be 8 years old at the end of this month. Dealer is Beechmont Subaru in Cincinnati.

    Daniel

    Edit - I checked online and it's 105 months or 105k miles, whichever comes first.
  • mr_jmtmr_jmt Member Posts: 9
    Hi all, I am a new Subaru owner and new to the Subie forum. I just bought an 09 Outback 3 weeks ago. I find when I use the A/C on recirculate (or fresh air), that the compressor cycles on/off too much for my liking. When the compressor is engaged, the air is plenty cold. Since my car is dark gray, it never really gets cold inside. Is the 'cycling' of the compressor normal? On my Chevy truck, it stays on and gets plenty cold. I am hoping that there is a simple fix. Just wanted to ask those who own Subies before I take it in for service.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    It's common with Subarus - the A/C systems on them are kind of crappy - some parts freeze up and the compressor has to shut off for a few seconds so that the whole system doesn't self-destruct. Poor design, but it's common.

    The cycling is usually very noticeable in the first 5-10 minutes of driving on hot days, after that, the system should equalize and the cutting out of the compressor will be virtually unnoticeable.

    If it keeps doing it on long drives, then have the dealer check it out - could be low charge also.
  • mr_jmtmr_jmt Member Posts: 9
    I have the same issue (see post 18222 and response to it in post 18223). My car has the same mileage as yours and I too find it annoying. All of the GMs I have ever owned have ACs cold enough on even the hottest of days.
  • tim3tim3 Member Posts: 28
    Greetings,
    The car: 04 Forester X, 5-speed manual, 97K miles. I’ve owned the car since new and taken excellent care of it. Except for this, the car has been excellent. The only repairs have been the thermostat and the catalytic converter.

    Starting somewhere around 40K, the car started to lurch and buck immediately after filling it up with gas. I found that if I stopped the car and restarted it immediately, the problem went away. This worked for a long time. Eventually, it would only go away once the car was stopped for a long time. I used to regularly overfill the tank a little (must get every drop possible!). But when I stopped doing this and stopped pumping on the first shut off. The problem mostly went away except for the occasional hiccup or two or three as I drove away from the station.

    But now it’s bucking and lurching again. Only this time, it seems to happen after I’ve been driving for a while and has nothing to do with fill ups. A few days ago I drove maybe 80 miles – all of them in the city – and toward the end the car started bucking badly. It’s been doing this off and on for a month or so. It seems to get worse in really hot weather. I’m in Tucson, AZ.

    Other times it just feels like I'm constantly letting my foot off the gas abruptly. But….I took it on a 150-mile drive on the highway earlier this week and it didn't do it all. Basically, I’ve tried really hard to pin down when the symptoms occur most, but they just seem really random.

    I think I've got a good dealer, but they can never replicate the problem, which I can I believe because it's pretty random. We're leaving on a 3,000-mile round trip road trip this week, although, as I mentioned, the problem doesn’t seem to happen on the highway nearly as much, I’d like to get this addressed before we leave, if possible.

    No CEL.

    Possible ideas I’ve gotten from other forums, include: fuel filter, coil pack, charcoal canister, vacuum leak.

    Any ideas?

    Thank you.
  • markk1markk1 Member Posts: 30
    A couple of weeks ago we had torrential downpours here is upstate NY. On my home from work I encountered a deep puddle, maybe just below the bottom of the car door on my 2000 Outback. Some cars turned around some went through it. I figured with the high ground clearance I would have no problem I went through it ok, but then started having what transmission problems. Basically at low speeds it felt like i were popping the clutch (but the car is an automatic), it seemed like the clutch (if there is one in an automatic) was slipping and then catching both on acceleration and decelleration, once I got above 10-15mph everything seemed ok. A couple of times I put it in reverse and it did not engage at all. The symptoms slowly went away over the next few days. Any idea what happened? is this a sign of future trouble? The car has 125k on it, but the original transmission was replaced at 75k. My mechanic checked the car out and believes i may have a real problem-(. Evidently he replicated the instance when it did not engage at all-(. Since I got the car back i have not had any problem with the transmission. If the transmission is gone it is time for a new car.
  • picachupicachu Member Posts: 7
    mr_jmt. Thanks for the response.

    I took the car into the dealer last night and went on a test drive with the technician who was able to confirm the issue. The tech checked the A/C temp on the coldest setting and the digital thermometer read 48 deg. and then the compressor shut-off. Once the air temp reached 52 deg. the compressor turned back on.

    The tech said the coldest A/C setting should be below 40 deg so the next step is to hook the car up to his A/C test machine and check the system pressures. Of course his A/C machine was being serviced so I had to make another appointment.
    The tech figures the cycling may be caused by low freon in the system which I don't understand since the car only has 1,000 miles on it to date.

    What a pain....
  • mr_jmtmr_jmt Member Posts: 9
    picachu, mine has 915 miles on it to date. The a/c seems to have gotten a little better. When I take it in for the first oil change (free for life), I will have the dealer address my list. Latest issue is that it idles rough and doesn't find a smooth idle for at least 60 seconds. Though, if I tap the accelerator pedal, it idles down nicely. Also, I've twice heard a noise from underneath after backing out of my driveway and shifting into drive. Probably nothing, but I want to only go once for the minor stuff.
  • forester_incvforester_incv Member Posts: 10
    How about: You sucked some water into the tranny, maybe through a breather somewhere. Tranny didn't really care for a fluid - water mix, BUT it kept chugging along. After a few days the water boiled off from the normal engine / tranny heat. Should have checked the tranny fluid asap when problem appeared, check it now for signs of moisture.

    Now, why did my 2006 Forester, auto, just 21K miles, turn its tranny fluid into nasty yellowed glob so quickly?
  • JHJJJHJJ Member Posts: 4
    While I was driving, all of sudden AT Oil Temp light started to flash and both ABS and VDC light came on.

    Tech did completed testing and diagnosis, found no code in memory...even did road test for 43 miles...found nothing
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    If I recall correctly it states in your owners manual and on the gas fill up door not to overfill. Your practice of "topping it off" may have done some damage to the canister or fuel anti pollution system.
    One possibility and cheap to fix is that you might have gotten some fuel with water in it. Put in a can of fuel line de-icer in the tank. Won't hurt and cheap fix if water is the problem.

    Jim
  • tim3tim3 Member Posts: 28
    I've often wondered if I didn't do some damage to the EVAP canister or some other part of the anti-pollution system. It hadn't occurred to me, however, that de-icer could be a possible fix. Thanks!
  • tubbs14tubbs14 Member Posts: 8
    We have a 2007 Outback with 25,000 miles. Starting at 10,000 miles, the rear driver side weatherstripping came detached (about six inches of it where it bends in direction). Since then, we've had it fixed three times for the same problem. It was finally replaced completely two days ago, and lo and behold today we see it is coming apart again. Is this a common problem on Subarus, and if not, does anyone have suggestions as to what to do next? I'm concerned that this is going to become a problem beyond the warranty period and am exasperated with the dealership. Thanks!
  • sloanesqsloanesq Member Posts: 60
    Hi all,

    I hope someone out there may have some insight into the problem I am experiencing with my 2006 Legacy SE.

    I recently had my compressor replaced. Since then, I have had problems with the cooling fan. Apparently, the A/C won't go on unless the cooling fan goes on. When I first start driving, this is never a problem. However, if I start going slowly (like in stop & go traffic) or idling, the A/C and the fan (not sure which comes first - like the chicken or the egg) shut off.

    The problem, aside from the lack of A/C, is that the cooling fan is no longer cooling the engine and my car starts to overheat. The problem solves itself once I start going faster again - the A/C (and the fan presumably) come back on and the temperature gauge returns to normal. However, if I am in slow moving traffic for more than a few minutes, I need to pull over and let the engine cool off.

    Any ideas what is causing this and how to solve it?
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    If it's lurching and bucking now, unrelated to fill-ups, I would check / replace the following:

    - Fuel filter-- used to be a very easy-to-reach silver canister under the hood, don't know about your 2004
    - Fuel injectors - buy a bottle of Chevron fuel injector cleaner, Techron is the best product on the market
    - Ignition: changing plugs is a relatively easy DIY job, ignition coil(s) are on top of the intake manifold, plug wires are easy to change as well.
    - Fuel pump -- it's in the tank and possible to change yourself, but by this point you probably want/need a mechanic to be involved.

    After all that's done, you've either fixed it or you've created a very short of list of what else could possibly be wrong.

    Evaporative systems will cause a check engine light (P0452 & P0453) but I don't think they can cause any driveability problems.. that I know of.

    Hope this helps,
    ~Colin
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Sloanesq,

    The first thing to check would be that the fans are actually plugged in. There are two fans behind the radiator and they have wiring plugs on the lower side. If you have a slim build, you *might* be able to slide under your Legacy for a look. (Put a piece of cardboard on the ground first.) Otherwise, you will have to jack up the front of the car or use ramps.

    ~Colin

    P.S. I am actually pained to admit that I once forgot to plug in the fans after working on my '99 Impreza RS. :blush: If you are overheating enough to have the car pulled over, that's not good. From my personal experience, it didn't seem like the all-alloy Subaru motor was too durable for stuff like that. :(
  • sloanesqsloanesq Member Posts: 60
    The fans definitely go on. I can see them spinning. The problem is, they shut off when they shouldn't - when engine speed is low for more than a few minutes.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    That's rather odd. Are you completely certain that your AC condenser fan isn't cycling on and off? It makes quite a bit of noise.

    If the main radiator fans come on at all, ever, then it could be a sensor, relay, loose / burnt wiring, etc. But it would really strange.

    ~Colin
  • sloanesqsloanesq Member Posts: 60
    I'm pretty sure that it is the radiator fans that are going off - that wold explain the overheating. Also, my mechanic looked at it, said the fans weren't going on, and "solved" the problem by whacking the housing with a hammer. It actually seemed like it was fixed for a while.
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