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At least, that is my experience. I replaced the fuel filter on my '96 Outback once - at about 120,000 miles, and never had any problems. That replacement was merely preventative. I don't know if it had been replaced before that, but I bought it at 83,000 and drove it to 220,000 (so that new filter had 100,000 miles on it, too!).
It was an easy task on my 98 Forester and our 02 Legacy. Guess it's not even needed any more (good to know).
On my 93 Miata it was under the car, near the passenger side rear tire. That job was SUCH A PAIN, I couldn't believe it. Even the 2nd time around, it still seemed nearly impossible. Everything else was simple, it was just that $#up!d fuel filter...
Thanks.
-mike
At least, that is my experience. I replaced the fuel filter on my '96 Outback once - at about 120,000 miles, and never had any problems. That replacement was merely preventative. I don't know if it had been replaced before that, but I bought it at 83,000 and drove it to 220,000 (so that new filter had 100,000 miles on it, too!).
I'm not 100% positive, but if you don't replace it, a bypass valve will kick in, so you won't get stuck or have decreased performance, but you will have dirty fuel flowing into your injectors.
-mike
My radiator is leaking around the seams, after replacing it, should I replace the cap and/or the thermostat?
-mike
I'll replace the alternator and possibly the battery as well. I was wondering if it would be worth getting a completely new alternator, or if a refurbished one would be just as good.
Any special tips as to how to go about the whole thing would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty much a klutz, but a friend of mine has changed dozens of alternators over the years, and his cars run quite smoothly. He has no experience with Subarus, though.
Thanks - MM
About replacing the battery.... for me it depends on the length/severity of the issue. If the battery was low on water the lead cores could have warped, in which case I would replace it. Also, if a lot of (acidic) fluid escaped, topping it off with water will dilute the battery's acidity and reduce its holding capacity. Okay, so you can keep it and see how it performs, or just replace it. I'm almost convincing myself just to replace it. :P
PS- If your interested in modern cars at all get an OBD2 Code Reader (Amazon for about $50), for when that Check Engine Light comes on someday. Actually hadn't thought about it, seems like OBD2 should give us a voltage reading, but maybe not.
Regarding testing the system, I do have a voltmeter, so I could do these basic checks. I do not have an ammeter, though. In any case, I am a bit reluctant to turn on the engine if it's indeed the case that the alternator is over-charging the battery. How long does it take for hydrogen to accumulate so that it might explode? If I do it outside, would I have a couple of minutes to check everything out? Mind you, I drove over 30 miles with that issue, according to when I detected the smell for the first time, and I survived...
Thanks again - MM
For what it's worth, that was July of 1999. I finally retired that battery this spring when it did not have enough juice to crank the truck after the winter and would not hold a charge for more than about 24 hours. It was time, though; it was time.
The OBD2 port gives a voltage reading to the ScanGauge in my old Scion xB, so it should do the same for a Forester. It can't measure voltage with engine off, of course, so engine must be running.
2003 OB with 126K miles- took my car to get oil change and rotation and also for noise on right front where I got a basketball hung up in my wheel- well- gotta love kids.
So the "inspection" listed a bunch of stuff i should get done- some things I'm iffy about so I'll run it by here:
Fuel Injector service for $75
Coolant Flush for $90 given they told that my upper and lower radiator hoses loooked "soft" and needed replacement
Brake fluid exchange for $80 as part of brake service.
These real and/or necessary or just upsale opportunities?
Thanks
RT
Injector service is a usual service dept profit maker.
Radiator hoses? Can't tell.
Regular brake fluid replacement (about once every three years) is important as the fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it imbibes water over time.
Injector service is just a profit-maker. Especially if you regularly use a fuel additive injector cleaner (once every 4 or 5K miles), you should never need an "injector service."
Can't tell on the radiator hoses, but depending on mileage and age, they are a service item. I wouldn't think you should need to replace them or the fluid any more often than once every 100,000 miles though.
Injector stuff is a waste.
Also if you haven't had the Timing belt done, you should have that done (due at 105k miles).
-mike
That's either too cheap, or too expensive.
If they're just putting in a bottle of Techron, it's too expensive.
Plus it's too cheap for them to truly do a throttle body cleaning. Mazda charged my wife a few hundred to do that on our old 626 (it did correct a major hesitation).
My guess is it's the first case - they are overcharging to pour a bottle of fuel injection cleaner in your gas tank. Do it yourself for $5-8 or so.
Not sure I'd go quite that far, but my general rule of thumb is 4 yrs. or so (4-5) on factory fill and change every 2-3 yrs. thereafter.
Coolant: The 2008 Subaru Maintenance Schedule calls for coolant replacement every 30K miles, unless Subaru Super Coolant is used, in which case it is 6 years or 75K miles. You likely don't have SSC in there, and are overdue on coolant, with old hoses that should be replaced at the same time.
Brake fluid: Should be replaced every 2 years in wet humid climate or 3-4 years in arid climate.
The prices seem high, but I guess that's what labor rates are these days.
As Mike said, if you haven't changed the timing belt, get that done and have the coolant changed at the same time. Most new coolants (Prestone, et al) are now formulated for extended life and shouldn't need to be replaced at 30k.
Jim.
What are the best tires for a 04 turbo forester?
Thanks for your advise.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Thank you.
Then again the Premium package is also a good value.
Don't pick by rims or tires. Get behind the wheel, and pick the one that feels best to you. The cost difference is minor, so your happiness should be more important.
How awful, though! It seems like you "just" repaired those things! How many miles have you put on the car since then with all your driving? It can't be more than another couple hundred thousand.... :P
(2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
Then tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
(3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again.
(4) Tighten bolts (a) and (b) to 34 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb).
(5) Tighten bolts (c), (d), (e) and (f) to 15 N·m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb).
(6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence.
CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°.
This is from the manual. I had trouble doing step six (6) no gauge to determine 90°. The a technician at the dealership told me a somewhat different sequence. The leak started about 302K miles. So after 15k miles I get a leak (287,007 changed gasket).
You had the surfaces planed, if I recall correctly, didn't you? If so, the mating surface should not be the issue here, but the gasket itself or, as mentioned, the torque.
The reason I do not recommend adjusting the torque is because, aside from the possibility that it may not help, the increased pressure (and possibly uneven) may be problematic when the engine warms up. It could cause undue stress on the aluminum, initiating a crack or warping the head or block.
The dealer attributed the oil leak and possibly my misfire to the head gasket. I have a good mind to just let it go. There is a little pooling on top of the engine and a 16 sq in spot on my driveway each day.
1. OBS has no sunroof and 17 in tires which cost a bit more to replace. Narrow tires 16in better in snow. Some say gas mileage is better with 16in tire.
I had an Outback wagon and you can tell that the car has higher ground clearance. I looked at the Impreza models OBS and Premium they look the same height. OBS has heavy duty suspension. You may feel a difference in handling between the two models. Best wishes on your upcoming purchase. Subaru is a wonderful car, I've had 5.
Had a minor fender bender 11/12; car got rear-ended in the rain at a stop sign. Damage minor (no injuries to anyone thankfully), but car ('05 Forester XT) needed rear bumper and muffler replaced. Had estimate done 11/13, made appointment to take into shop 11/23. Shop ordered aftermarket and OEM exhaust (both per insurer, former as policy, latter from SoA in case former did not fit) 11/19.
Car went into shop as scheduled 11/23, given completion date of 11/25. Aftermarket muffler did not fit; OEM part from SoA did not arrive. As of today (12/2) car still in shop; paint/body work done on time, still waiting on muffler from SoA. FWIW shop is less than 30 miles from SoA HQ and regional parts warehouse.
Is this car so rare that SoA does not maintain replacement parts inventory? At this rate may consider looking into the variety of aftermarket grapefruit launchers on the market just to get the car back.
Rant off,
Ed
You may want to try a junk yard or something.
After the incident, the car felt like a vibration at higher speeds and a slow oscillation at lower speeds, almost like a wallow, in the rear. The rear of the car felt unsettled. There was no visible damage to wheels or tires.
Took it to the dealer, they rebalanced and rotated all wheels front to back. The strange sensation in the rear still exists, so this doesn't look like a problem with wheels or tires. I'm taking it to the dealer again tomorrow, but was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be damaged.
I can only think of a possible slightly bent axle. I don't know what else this could be.
Thanks!
Oh, I probably should have asked.... does the "wallow" feel like it is side-to-side or up-and-down?
My mother bent the rear axle on her '79 Trans Am one winter by sliding sideways into a curb. Just sitting there, you could not tell it was damaged. But, when she drove down the road, you could definitely feel it... it was a pretty intense "wobble."
Isn't that fuel pump under warranty?
Check to make sure all the emissions hoses are reconnected. Especially around the intake.
A friend of mine has a similar issue with her 2008 Impreza. Her windshield completely fogged up while driving and she had to stop until it cleared. Have you had a similar problem? You mentioned the "real fix" for your car. May I ask what that was?
andy114
Regina, Sk., Can.
I was sick for almost a year. I finally got rid of the car in September and have a 2010 now. I am still healing my lungs and other things which were affected by the chemicals that I was exposed to.
GET RID OF IT BEFORE YOU GET SICK!!!!!!