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Comments
Craig
Just bought a case of redline Synthetic AT fluid for my Firebird, hope that will work fine, just had the tranny rebuilt and the tranny guy said to use synthetic fluid along with a heavy duty radiator to keep the temps down. Rebuilt the engine and went from 170 HP to about 400. I will have some real fun soon.
-mike
Brought the car in for a strut/spring recall and an oil change.
Took two long cranks to start car - very unusual. Drove 100 yards from the shop and the engine light came on. Car revving high, transmission not shifting until 4000 rpm. Dealer says the computer codes for a "idle valve" replacement.
How much should this cost and why did this come up while the car was at the dealer? The car was running great before hand.
The car was detailed (including the engine comparment) a week ago and driven about 300 miles since.
Patti
Ken
Steve
Jon
-Brian
Cheers!
Paul
Keep an eye on the coolant and oil levels until you get to the dealer, it's probably nothing.
-juice
I use Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in my Miata's gear box, it's still silky smooth 13k miles later. So maybe it affects some, not all, gear boxes.
-juice
Jim
-juice
Not sure if this helps clarify any potential problem. The odor is apparent both while sitting in traffic and when the car is shut off.
Jon
(former blissfully ignorant Philosophy major)
-juice
Jon
Matt
Yours may not be working properly.
-juice
I mean... engaging the parking brake and leaving it in gear is so second nature I can't believe I didn't do it. My GT suffered relatively minor damage to the tune of $1k. That's for a bumper and it's internals, bumper cover and interior trim panel for tailgate. I guess I was lucky the tailgate was open as it suffered no sheetmetal damage at all. Just the inside trim (tailight access) got cracked when it slammed down on the PU.
The Chevy is much worse off. No estimate yet as the neighbor is still not home. But the rear small door on the drivers side is toast. As is the rocker panel and lower rear edge of the cab body.
bit
Bummer, but we all make mistakes, and yours won't turn out to be that bad, all things considered. Noone was hurt.
-juice
Craig
Just checked the Chevy truck again. Seems like I bent the lower side edge of the box too. Tough truck.
Still no neighbor.
bit
I now recall, one time I parked my '91 Escort GT, walked outside later and it had rolled to the other side of the street! Luckily a curb stopped it, and there was zero damage.
Dumb luck, I tell ya.
-juice
Alan - Missing my 5speed
98 OBW Ltd
My interior had things falling off once in a while, and my A/C died twice, but the powertrain ran 107k miles without even burning any oil.
-juice
Funny. I feel lucky.
bit
-Dave
On the damage and the truck's "weakness", note that your vehicle's strongest exterior surface went against its weakest. Sheetmetal vs a bumper produces a predictable result even if it's a Geo Metro vs a Suburban.
I would have the Sube very carefully checked over by a really good shop. An impact that heavy with the hatch open can produce some stress risers that would not have happened with the structural assistance of the hatch being in place. Glad nobody was hurt.
IdahoDoug
I mean, your structure must be stiffer, at least at the point of impact. I thought heavier objects were supposed to "win" those fights, but not in this case.
-juice
-juice
force= weight x speed squared
The poor truck took a pretty good shot depending on how fast the Suby got moving down the slope prior to impact. Amplified by the size of the impacting point.
OK....just a comment.....GO SUBY!
Mike
Greg
It still is amazing that the point of contact worked out so well in my favor. Seeing how the truck is a Silverado 4X4 and sits high(ish) and I have a Legacy and not the higher OB. Contact was mainly between right side of my rear bumper and just above the lower door edge of the truck. Additional contact was from the rest of my bumper and the cab body and bed.
I suppose I could have it checked on a frame machine... or maybe get a 4 wheel alignment just to check.
Thanks for all the replies.
bit
If on close inspection everything looks okay it probably is, even though the tailgate was open it is hardly likely that the car was rolling fast enough to do massive hidden damage.
I would venture to say that I am at least as fussy as you with my car, and this impact would hardly cause me to lose any sleep, fix it and forget it.
Cheers Pat.
Am owner of Forester ( 2000) . Have a terrible rattle in dash ( right side ) . Was there since 2600 clicks. Dealer cannot seem to fix it. Now it is evident on left side ( but not as pronounced) and on occasion in the centre of the dash.
Noise seems to be near the front part of the dash( near the windshield) .
Noise is very loud when going over rough pavement.( sounds like two pieces hitting together really fast almost not secured ). Does not have to even be that rough ( could be as slight as a manhole cover or joint on the highway). Is noticeable when driving normal city speed( 50 km and above ) but is slowly starting to become evident at slower speed if the road is extremely rough.
Typically, the dealer cannot duplicate the sound. One dealer told me that he heard it but did not know what it was. Nice!!!
Have removed everything from glove box -- noise still persists.
Any help / thoughts / solutions would be greatly appreciated.
But now I gotta pick the body shop to do the work. The big fancy shop, the shop the Soob dealer uses or the small 2 person shop that also did some of the nice street rods in town. The latter getting the largest number of positive referrals. But then again ts only the bumper...
bit
Find a rough road and have your front passenger (unless you have long arms and can reach) press on the vent grille to see if the timbre of the vibration changes at all. That may be the problem.
I popped the plastic vent grille out. It's shaped like a funnel, where the small end connects to the supply pipe and the large end opens up into the grille. I folded some electricians tape into the inside of the small end to ensure a tighter fit and that took care of the problem.
If you take the vent grill out, also check any wiring harness(es) behind there to make sure that they're not rattling against the ductwork or back side of the glove box. Tape or tie-wrap as required. That may have been a contributor to my dash rattle as well - I taped down part of a loose harness that was just behind the vent grille.
The parts on the truck were sheet metal, and the wagon's back bumper is pretty solid (beam+foam+cover). It makes sense to me that the truck had a lot of damage and, in direct correspondance, that the wagon had very little. I think the truck's sheet metal dissipated most of the crash energy. The foam under the wagon's bumper may have been compressed, but I bet that's the extent of the "hidden" damage. If the car drives straight and all the doors and hatch operate correctly, that's a very good sign.
Craig
-mike