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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Sorry to hear about your friend's accident. Yes, I can commiserate. I was caught in a snowstorm the first time the windshield fogged up. Very dangerous situation. Luckily, I didn't get in an accident like your friend did. Yet, it kept re-fogging as you used the defrost.

    I ended up doing lemon law and got $$ from mfg to get another car. They had offered to buy the car back. At the time, it was better financially to get another car than to have them buy it back. The bad thing was it took 5 months of negotiation to have that happen, so I just got sicker & sicker.

    Praying this new car won't have the same problems, but was told this has a different heater box in it. We'll see.

    I wish your friend good luck!!!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I am sorry that it took so long, but am glad you were able to find resolution. I also have a 2010 Forester now, and with 4500 miles on it, have had no fogging issues at all (certainly not sudden, but also none of the somewhat minor "filming" that I had experienced with the '07 and '08 Outbacks).

    So far the glass is perfectly clear, and we use the defrost at all times when the car is running.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • gdocgdoc Member Posts: 22
    2010 Forester XT in Toronto. Any suggestions for the best winter tires that give a good ride, decent handling, low noise and good grip. I had some Michelin pilots on my last car that were good. Any thoughts would be very appreciated.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Glad to hear that XwesX!

    I still have under 2k on m new one, so haven't been driving it much yet. A long drive with the defrost on will be a good test. Going into the shop tomorrow for the first warranty work.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    I am using BS Blizzak WS60 and like it very much. Below is Winter Pkg recommended for 2010 Subie Forester XT by TireRack.com

    image
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Yes, the Blizzaks are a good choice. I am using Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice on my Forester, which are my first dedicated winter studless tire, and they are amazing. After a constant six weeks on snow and ice, I have yet to slip a tire; it is even difficult to do it when trying! I have a set of mediocre studded tires on my other car, and I slip and slide all over the place.

    For snow, the UGI perform very well due to their open block design - in this regard, I expect they perform better than the Blizzak WS-60 or X-Ice2, but both those are also excellent choices for ice.

    For handling, I don't think any of those three will be your best choice. There are several winter performance tires recommended on Tire Rack that are good choices. Nokian makes a few performance tires that are excellent as well. It all depends on how much you want to spend.... ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wideopenslopewideopenslope Member Posts: 6
    I installed brand new winter tires on my 2009 Subaru Forester about two weeks ago. The tires came from tirerack.com, mounted and balanced on brand new wheels.
    I noticed:
    1- a slight unbalanced-like vibration as soon as I started driving after they were installed.
    2- a more than slight burning rubber smell during a quick stop after 200 miles on a highway.
    3- mileage dropped 4mpg from usual all season tire driving.
    Please advise.
    Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    What are the tires?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wideopenslopewideopenslope Member Posts: 6
    BLIZZAKS
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    If this is on dry roads.... yes, they will definitely do a number on your fuel economy. Feel the tread on those tires! It is soft. That equates to excellent grip on ice, but it causes a lot more friction with the road surface, which in turn takes more energy to overcome.

    As for the out-of-balance situation, you will likely have to take that up with Tire Rack.

    If you live in an area with only occasional snow/ice conditions, I would recommend keeping them off the car as much as possible when they are not needed. You will also get a lot more life out of the tires, as they wear quickly on dry roads. Oh, and that may also be why you smell burning. Again, the compound is soft and is designed for cold conditions. If you are driving in a situation that combines warm temperatures with dry roads, they will wear very quickly (even burn?). Once the first 50% of the tread is gone, though, they are just regular all-seasons and should not affect your fuel economy like that nor wear nearly as fast. Of course, then you no longer have winter tires, either.... :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wideopenslopewideopenslope Member Posts: 6
    Thanks!
    Any comments on the smell? Is it just normal wear smell?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Hah! You're fast! I just edited my last reply above (#18401).

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wideopenslopewideopenslope Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, Wes!
    Yep! Snow is taking its time to come to Central New York. I often drive to Vermont, and they were very useful on my Mazda Protege. In the past I changed them once I had already spun a couple of times, and I did not want this to happen driving my brand new Forester.
    I appreciate your advice.
    Thanks.
    Roberto.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    That's a good move. I hit a little snow/ice outside of Tok when I first brought my new Forester home from Seattle this Fall. With the Geolandars on there, it was not all that sure-footed. I went the same route as you and put the UGIs on a set of dedicated rims.

    A lady who parks in the same lot as me purchased the same car (color and everything!) a week later, but did not opt to put winter tires on it. About a month ago, she came to work with a sizable crease in one of her front fenders. Two days later, there were Blizzaks on it. I asked her about the crease, and she said she hit a tree in her driveway when the car failed to shift direction as she tried to negotiate a curve. :cry: That changed her mind about the winter tires....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wideopenslopewideopenslope Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, Wes!
    Snow is falling now, and I'll be driving to VT this weekend again. Looking forward to it!
    I just noticed that you are in Alaska... building your own house...
    Architect, Vermonter-wannabe here, dreaming of building my own house...
    Good luck!
  • jaredsalingerjaredsalinger Member Posts: 1
    I investigated the differences between the 2010 Subaru Outback Sport and the 2010 Subaru Impreza hatchback. I found that the suspensions are exactly the same. The difference in height comes from the difference in wheel sizes. The Outback Sport has the 17 inch wheels, and the regular hatchback (and sedan) has the 16 inch wheels. I was able to verify this with a Subaru dealership, where I was considering the Outback Sport and the regular hatchback, and took physical measurements myself with my own tape measure. The net hight increase of the Outback Sport is about 1/2 inch.

    By the way, the actual ground clearance (except for some minor protruding aspects) of the regular Impreza hatchback was 7.5 inches, and the Outback Sport was 8 inches. The reason why the manufacture does not use those figures is because they measure from the ground to the lowest aspect of the chassis, which is usually a bolt or an articulation of the drive train.

    I hope this helps.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    That I am. Embarrassingly, if you obtained your information from the "bio," I wrote that in 2004 and am, indeed, still building the house. Out-of-pocket is not always the fastest method....

    I hope that you do end up building your dream and, if you can, do it yourself (or substantially so)! It is quite an experience and a joy (most of the time!). We finally put windows in the house this summer, which was seven years after we started building. :blush:

    Regarding the burning smell from the tires, it may be a good idea to ask a Tire Rack rep about it if it continues for more than the first thousand miles or so.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    I have a 2005 Forester. It has 120,000 miles on it. It has been maintained well and I had all belts and water pump replaced at about 100,000 miles. The only problems I have had are with the air conditioning. Had to have the evaporator replaced at the beginning of the summer. The air never worked great after that.

    My problem now seems to be the heater. I don't know if it is my imagination, but the heater seems very hot. It was freezing today and I had to drive with the heater position in the beginning of the hot range. I seem to recall that I always used to have the setting well into the red range. I don't know if this indicative of a problem or not I also notice that the dial turns easily at times and at other times it is harder to turn.

    Any feedback will be appreciated
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    Hey wow, I get to post a question!

    So yesterday morning at a stop light, the OB died. all the idiot lights came on, I cranked it and it fired right back up. Then on the way home from work, the car died as I was approaching a red light at about 30mph. I believe I did have the clutch in and was coasting in. All the idiot lights came on...while coasting, I cranked it and she fired right back up again. Battery time? It is cold here all the sudden.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounds like a battery or alternator.

    Have the battery load tested (usually free), and if it's bad just replace that.

    If it's OK, could be the alternator.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Are you getting a CEL?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Curious. Is your temp gauge reading normal? You should also be able to hook the car to a diagnostics machine to read out the actual temperature of the engine during operation.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If so I have an OBD2 scanner he can borrow.
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Bridgestone Blizzaks. Have them for the '98 OBW and on the 2008 Tribeca.
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    On my '98 OBW after the initial warm up, I always put the lever at the beginning of the hot (red) zone. Also turn down the seat heater (love these with leather seats).

    We lucked out this morning, it was only 11° F this morning vs -8° F yesterday morning. Winter is here. More snow tomorrow and Monday. :)
  • jbur1jbur1 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2003 Forester XS that loses coolant in extreme cold weather and I can't determine where I am losing it from. I checked the radiator hoses and they are ok. I haven't noticed any puddles under the vehicle either. One day last winter the car sat outside for eight hours on a zero degree day. After starting the car and driving about two miles I noticed smoke coming up from under the hood. I pulled over and checked under the hood and noticed that some coolant had landed on top of the exhaust heat shield on the driver's side of the car thus causing the smoke and typical sweet smell of burning coolant. When I got home I checked the coolant level and found that I had lost about six ounces of coolant. I have had no problem at all this past summer but now we just had a day where the temperature was in the single digits and I lost about two ounces of coolant (reservoir had emptied). I have 80,000 miles on the car and even though this vehicle was not included in the head gasket issue I have added the Subaru coolant conditioner each time I changed coolant at 30,000 and 60,000 miles to be on the safe side. Has anyone experienced a similar issue? Any feedback would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • gdocgdoc Member Posts: 22
    Thanks. Just got them put on. What a difference. I live in Toronto and we had our first snow storm. With the all seasons, I was making a turn off the highway and fish tailed the back end ( no, I was not trying to!). Had the Blizzak tires put on and took some turns rather quick with no breaking and the truck was planted much better.
  • gdocgdoc Member Posts: 22
    I have an opportunity to buy 18" STI rims (5 spoke version on base STI). Any thoughts on how moving up to 18" would influence road noise and would this in anyway effect warranty? I would also have to get new tires and sell the Yokayama 17" that came with the truck. I don't go off roading, but wondering if moving to 18" rims with performance tires would give the vehicle a harsh ride.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    What did you do for the Blizzaks you just put on the car? Are those on their own rims, or on the stock 17s? The 18" wheels are going to transmit more vibration to the car, but I doubt it is going to be unbearable. Given the amount of body roll, you likely will not see any improvement in handling just by changing the wheels. It will not impact your warranty assuming you put an appropriately sized tire on the car and all tires have the same diameter, as would be the case with any size rim.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    This one sounds familiar to me, though I do not see why yours would be cold-related (or, perhaps, it is not related to the cold but just started... when it happened to be cold!). If you can, put the car on ramps and get underneath it in order to look up at the thermostat housing. Just in front and above that housing is the water pump. It may be that the fluid is coming from the weep hole on the water pump housing. If so, it means the seal on the impeller shaft has failed and coolant is leaking into shaft housing and out the weep hole.

    Should this be the case, it is an early warning that your water pump is going to fail. I had this on a '96 Outback, but did not realize or heed that warning. 25,000 miles later, the pump failed at 0200 on a Sunday morning in January, at twenty degrees below zero. It was not all that fun; I should have heeded the warning. :blush:;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • gdocgdoc Member Posts: 22
    I put the Blizzaks on the stock 17s. They did not have steel rims at the time to fit, so I figure I would leave the stocks on. The STI 18" rims are going for $1000. Dealer is selling them for nearly that for one rim. Do you have any tire suggestions? I was looking for the best tire that would give me a good compromise of performance with a smoothe ride. I like the feel of the suspension with the 17's and find the vehicle handles very well. However, I realize that I will give up some smootheness for the improvement in handling.
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    you'll want to confirm the bolt pattern. Your XT is 5x100. for a while the STi was 5x114. I don't recall which years though, sorry.
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    I have a 2005 Forester. My keyless entry fob will open the doors but not close them. I am not sure if I can just reprogram the existing fob or if I need to buy an new one. Does anyone know the answer to that. I read that if you click the fob too many times, it disables it....I read it someplace on the internet and do not know if it is a reliable source. Assuming that I can reprogram the present one, how would I do that? If I need to buy new fobs, I believe the instructions come with it.

    Since my keyless fob still opens the doors I know it isn't in need of a change of batteries. What could cause it to only "half" work?

    Thanks for any help you can give me.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    The switch on the circuit board under that button could have simply gone out. It does happen. Do you not have two units for your car? If so, you could verify the car operates by checking the other unit. Otherwise, it may be your best bet just to get a replacement unit and program it.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Ah, that is great, then! Having the winter tires on dedicated rims will save you a fair bit of money and wear (on the rims/tires) in the long run.

    I did not realize that the STi had a different bolt pattern for a while; that is odd, but no more so than other manufacturers that also carry multiple patterns between their various models.

    Here's to hoping they do have the correct pattern. As for tires, I do not know as I have no experience with performance tires.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... at a stop light, the OB died... I cranked it and it fired right back up. Then on the way home from work, the car died as I was approaching a red light at about 30mph. I believe I did have the clutch in and was coasting in... I cranked it and she fired right back up again. Battery time?"

    If the car repeatedly dies at idle, the battery is not involved. And if the car starts OK cold, and starts OK each time it dies at idle, the battery and charging system appear to be strong.
    I think the problem may be in the fuel or ignition systems. Yet you do not mention seeing a CEL light when the engine is running, so the problem comes on suddenly.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... I have a 2003 Forester XS that loses coolant in extreme cold weather and I can't determine where I am losing it from. I checked the radiator hoses and they are ok..."

    Check the hose clamps. People have reported that after a few years they can be tightened some more. There are many small hoses in the system, and some of the clamps are hard to even see, much less reach.
    In hot weather the hoses have enough softness to continue to seal under the loose clamps, but when they are very cold on winter nights, they get hard and don't seal as well. There will be a few drops at night, then when the engine is hot, there is nothing to see.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    When I had this problem on a '96 Outback, it was the MAS (Mass Airflow Sensor). The CEL would illuminate, but no codes would be in the system. After replacing it, though, the problem never recurred. You might consider pulling it and cleaning the sensor element along with the connector to see if that helps.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Might be a vacuum leak somewhere... similar symptom happened to me - turned out to be a vacuum hose had wiggled loose, out of sight, out of mind, but I can't remember any details as to where under the hood it was.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    The MAF sensor or loose vacuum hose could cause the dying at idle. The MAF sensor can be cleaned by unplugging it and spraying with carb cleaner.
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    Had a CEL for a couple of weeks in September. It turned itself off before I got the code pulled. I assumed the usual O2 sensor or what-have-you. Haven't seen the CEL since.

    Maybe I'll try to get the car over to AndrewTech while I'm away at the end of the month. At this age, I don't trust my local grease monkeys with it, and prefer to have Subaru lovers work on it. Too bad they're an hour away though.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I have had my Forester for ten years. And have replaced the headlights over half a dozen time or more. But all the other exterior lights maybe once. What gives? The most expensive bulbs go six times faster. Anyone got a reason/theory?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Are they standard wattage? I think 55/60w?

    I ask because the higher wattage lights do not last as long. They run hot.

    I got only 12 months out of a set of higher output bulbs.

    When they blew, I put the OE bulbs back in, and they lasted until I sold the Subaru at 9 years+ of age.
  • joe_in_pajoe_in_pa Member Posts: 7
    Hi everyone. 2004 Forester with 62k on it. Have some type of thick grease leaking onto my garage floor. Checked under the car and found what looks like grease around the lower control arm bushing on the passenger front. The grease cannot come from anywhere else but there, as nothing is really above it. Is this a type of fluid filled bushing?

    Also, while under the car I noticed a drop of antifreeze hanging off of a steel line on the drivers side. Also the cover underneath the engine has an oily film on it. I have not noticed any oil or antifreeze on the garage floor. Did not see any oil in the antifreeze or signs of antifreeze in the oil. The coolant level was just a bit low. I put about a 1/2 pint in. I wiped the antifreeze off the line but have not had a chance to crawl under the car to see it if re appeared. I have regular service done at the dealer. With all the discussions here about head gaskets, I'm afraid I already know the answer. I have seen these signs before on Chrysler products I owned. That is why I now have a Subaru. Is Subaru taking care of this in a recall or a case by case basis? If I have to shell out a lot of money, this will be my last Subaru. I had a 93 Legacy that never gave me a days trouble. I also have Toyotas in the family, again with no problems. I love the Forester but if the head gaskets are leaking I am not going to be a happy camper.
    Thanks for hearing me out and letting me vent.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I usually get the Philips or Sylvania (abt $9.99 each).

    Today we got 20 inches of snow here in Jersey. I am going to just drive over the snow in my driveway (no shoveling). Let the Forester do the work for me.

    AWD is a wonderful thing.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    In in the DC area and we got a similar amount.

    LOVE being able to get around, even when my neighbor's Audi allroad quattro can't. Not enough clearance to get by our unplowed road.

    It's OK, I'm getting milk for him. ;)
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... looks like grease around the lower control arm bushing on the passenger front... Is this a type of fluid filled bushing?..."

    Some of the bushings are. The manual says the rear bushings of the transverse link are grease-filled. Maybe your bushing is, too.

    "... I have regular service done at the dealer... the cover underneath the engine has an oily film on it... "

    Me, too, and I ramp the front and crawl under to check after every oil change. Every time they leave oil on the sump, the filter and on the cover under the engine.
    To see oil from a head gasket leak, you have to completely remove the cover and look up at the underside of the heads.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Well, my Forester went 12 feet before it was stopped by the snow (24 inches). Let's see, 7 inches of ground clearance means 17 inches to push out of the way. I had another 20 feet to go.

    Cleared that only to get hung up by the mound left at the end of my driveway by the snow plows.

    Some more work and shortening the life of my clutch by about 20K miles and I was out. Winter tires would have been nice.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The trick is to drive and pack down the snow while it's still accumulating. That'll pack it down as it falls.

    Or shovel or snow plow. 24" of snow gets HEAVY pretty fast. I had to shovel in 3 "layers".
  • ffenffen Member Posts: 2
    Have a 2001 Outback, Manual with about 120K miles - mostly local short trips for the past couple of years. Got it used and replaced clutch (bad slippage problem) about 3 years ago. Clutch just went again (bad slippage again - after about 30K miles on it). Took it back to same mechanic who was surprised and concerned about early failure (he had put heavy duty Subaru parts in first time). When he took it apart, the clutch plate had lots of dirt on it and was gone, the release bearing was in bad shape and the Clutch release lever seal had disintegrated. So he feels that some oil or dirt got in and caused the failure, but the problem is that he can't see any source of the problem - so he's afraid that it might continue to happen again. Any ideas that I can give him about the possible source of the contamination? Thx.
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