Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

aatherton · December 2009

"... the clutch plate had lots of dirt on it and was gone, the release bearing was in bad shape and the Clutch release lever seal had disintegrated. So he feels that some oil or dirt got in... Any ideas that I can give him about the possible source of the contamination?"
This mechanic is replacing your clutch for the second time, and should have his own good ideas about why.
When he replaced the first clutch, did he note its condition and why it slipped? Did he replace the release bearing and seal?

Dirt per se does not get into the clutch housing. What he is calling dirt is lining dust. Oil can get into the clutch housing from either the engine's rear main seal or the transmission's input seat. If those were the cause of the first clutch's slippage and were not replaced, that could account for the second clutch's short life.

girlcarbuilder · December 2009

Pay attention. from a small fleet service maintainer.

Subaru back of engine is not the norm. Normally from what we have seen, the rear main oil seal is not the cause of oil leakage. What the source of oil leakage is the oil separator plate in the PCV system. OEM units are plastic. Replacement part from Subaru is aluminin. On the other side is also a $5 o ring from Subaru which is the oil galley area as well. Replace the o ring, the oil separator plate and the rear main seal to eliminate any leakage from the back end before doing the clutch. They will cause the clutch to fail if ignored.

Now, when I replaced the oil separator plate, The OEM gasket was silicone only. I replaced with a hand made very thin paper gasket coated on both sides with a very thin coat of the black silicone. The o ring I recall as only being done with thin film of silicone used. Be sure to clean off all old silicone and grease before the final reassembly. Make sure those access screws are also well torqued in place.

WE had to use a small hand held impact screwdriver to remove these screws. Purchased it from Home Depot. They are not screws you want coming back out again either. So make very sure they are lock tite or staked or whatever it takes to keep them installed.

If you are not sure if your car has this, take the VIN to the parts department of a Subaru dealer and have them pull up the rear of the engine looking for an oil separator plate. If you have it, you have a problem if it is the old plastic one. I would still service it while down for a clutch to prevent future problems. Ditto on the rear main and o ring evn if not leaking. They will fail before the clutch wears out next time from normal use.

Unit procedure completed on, 97 Subaru Brighton wagon with 2.2L engine. 5 speed standard. Service point, 240K miles. reason for service, clutch, wheel bearings and front end work. Service date, March '09. Operation status, open road, MO area. Next major service due at 345K. Good luck on your car, hopefully this info will help you out.

aatherton · December 2009

Darn, that's it. I forgot all about the oil separator. I had the info but didn't make the connection. That rear cavity for breather on one side of the engine is unique to the boxer engine and hard for me to understand. Here it is:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18229401
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=965763#9
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1187193#12

girlcarbuilder · December 2009

Very correct pictures. The way it works is simple. You may know already that as an engine wears out the engine blowby increases. Along with that blowby is more oil vapor. Which in time will flood the intake system with liquid oil with higher engine loads.

The way the separator works is it forces the vapor to hit cooler inside flange surfaces and condense back to a liquid flowing back to the crankcase before it gets into the breather system as a vapor. With a flywheel flying right next to it outside, and the cover being a heat sink, a few degrees get dropped quickly. Neat arrangement, but a pain for over all maintainance because its failure forces a clutch job at 240K before it was even needed for a professional driver. One reason Subaru is possibly getting dropped from the fleet here. Guess we getting lazy here. I remember clutch jobs around a 100K!

Another note. Not sold on the fujibonds performance. It clearly failed once already!That is why we installed with a paper gasket coated with black silicone. Time will tell how well it holds up. One thing for sure, fleet service gives back hard tested answers! The silicone helps secure screws and come time for replacement, hopefully never, it acts like a teflon to remove that old paper gasket. During service it works like elmers glue holding the paper gasket in place very nicely. Thin coat can not be stressed loud enough. Thinner, the better.

Oh, well, so the world turns. We all live and learn. Subaru still has a hard to beat system for snow, but they are getting their vehicles too large.

ffen · December 2009

Thanks for responses aatherton & girlcarbuilder.

> This mechanic is replacing your clutch for the second time, and should have his
> own good ideas about why.

Actually, he's puzzled about why it happened so soon and was searching for possibilities (which is why I posted here).

> When he replaced the first clutch, did he note its condition and why it slipped?
> Did he replace the release bearing and seal? "

Not sure. I know he didn't replace seal, I think but am not sure he replaced bearing.

NEW INFO - My guy had some friends who were transmission specialists look at the parts, and they said they couldn't see any oil, just clutch plate debris. Subaru dealer service manager said that 30K / 3yr clutch replacement was normal (seems kind of short to me ...) . My guy will be showing the parts to the service mngr tomorrow. I will also forward info on oil leak prone areas to my guy to take a look at. Thanks all for your responses.

Frank

aatherton · December 2009

"... the source of oil leakage is the oil separator plate in the PCV system... Replace the o ring, the oil separator plate and the rear main seal to eliminate any leakage from the back end before doing the clutch. They will cause the clutch to fail if ignored..."

What effect does oil leakage from the separator plate have upon an automatic transmission?

aatherton · December 2009

"... couldn't see any oil, just clutch plate debris. Subaru dealer service manager said that 30K / 3yr clutch replacement was normal..."

By debris, do you mean particles of clutch destruction, or dust worn from the friction plate? Big difference.

Service managers say all kinds of weird things to suit the situation. Clutches should last 100K to 150K in normal use, depending on the shifting habits of the normal driver. Many drivers are hard on the clutch without even realizing it.

The life can be greatly shortened by true abuse, an inferior clutch plate, or oil contamination.

girlcarbuilder · December 2009

Okay, I am going to answer several people at the same time. First concern: If it has been definitely confirmed that there is no oil leakage, meaning you do not have oil on the back of the engine and it is clean except for dust only. Then and only then do you not have an oil leak. If you have black crud, dust and oil combined on the back of the engine, it will get on the clutch plate in small amounts and be burned off by it, the pressure plate and the disc. You may only see evidence of bluing on the clutch plates. I did not see leakage actually on ours until I cleaned the rear of the engine and it sat for several days. It was a little thin drip from both sides of the engine that would fall onto the edge of the flywheel. More noticeable from the o ring than the plate. I suggest you ask how often the owner has to add oil. If he has to put much more than a quart every 2-5K miles. I would strongly suspect the seals. A 240K unit here after service needs a quart about every 2K. When I say clean, I mean clean enough to eat off of. If your mileage is close to 100K or more and that oil separator has never been serviced, do it, the rear main and the o ring. It will be a problem in the future if it is not now.

Second question: automatic transmission application. The concern comes to play when you start seeing a lot of oil loss. That could very well mean either the rear main has failed or the screws on the plate worked lose, which I doubt because they are a pain to remove. The torque convertor is a sealed unit that it can not harm. It will just fling the oil off to the outer perimeter. If you ever pull the tranny, service it then.

There is a 94 Legacy here with that problem. 4 speed auto. Been stored a long time after hitting a deer. at 170K. It is in the process of being returned to service. An economics things versus buying new. It will be tagged with a watch on the oil use. Another words, check the oil with each fill up. Never assume it is okay each time. If you ever see the oil light come on. Shut it down or you will destroy the engine. Likely hood of this happening, pretty low. I saved a 87 Mitz Mirage that way years ago when it blew the rear main seal and it has been retired to a little old lady who survived cancer. Good final use for that car! I know, it was a lot of work to fix it, but I will do it for someone who will take care of an older car and use up the investment properly.

Final note. One of the reasons fleets buy a lot of the same makes is they can see what the first few units do and forecast what parts to keep available. You also know what to look for and when to replace. When that 97 came in, anything that came off to service that clutch if it so much had possible problem on it, it got replaced! At 240K, that was a few things like wheel bearings, steering rack boots and half shafts. Seals are cheap. That rear main, o ring, and oil separator plate are all under $50! If you ignore, you will be back in for ignoring it. It is cheaper labor wise to work that way and resolve many smaller issues as well. We know both from local dealer and our own experience those parts are a pain. We even advised the dealer to start replacing the O ring which they did not stock, because we confirmed it was dried out and leaking at 240K. I personally have even talked shop about these units with the service tech and confirmed these parts are a problem over 150K for sure. Clutch life, is if the driver carefully matches gears with engine speed, a good 200K based in the St. Louis area for a vehicle that gets a lot of highway use. I can see it being lower if someone is rough with it or stop and go driving. The way to confirm is to take a ride with the customer and observe how he drives. If he is rough, explain what is going on when he shifts rough and make suggestions on how to improve the life of the clutch.

Here it is a bit easier. You the driver screw it up, you pay for it! But when it comes to the average driver, your customer, few even understand how gasoline is burned! Problem is, few mechanics can explain how to improve driving. This is where an excellent customer rep comes into the picture. I can not stress the drive with customer after job is complete. I would do that even if repairing all rear seals. That drive will show you care about his pocketbook by explaining the proper way of shifting by matching up the gears with engine speed. The closer the driver gets with the skill, the longer that clutch will last. Yup, like I said before with our drivers, clutches last well over 240K and on the Subaru's fail because of oil leakage. They all had to relearn how to drive! I will also point out to replace that pilot bearing with a very good one. Come 240K, it is frozen up! Oh, those seals will not most likely make another 100K or more if they are not replaced. The cost is not worth going back in for.

aatherton · December 2009

"... Clutch life, is if the driver carefully matches gears with engine speed, a good 200K... lower if someone is rough with it or stop and go driving. The way to confirm is to take a ride with the customer and observe how he drives. If he is rough, explain what is going on when he shifts rough and make suggestions on how to improve the life of the clutch.... by explaining the proper way of shifting by matching up the gears with engine speed. The closer the driver gets with the skill, the longer that clutch will last... They all had to relearn how to drive! "

And you are not talking about Juan Fandango double-clutching. All the driver has to do is upshift slowly using fingers on the shifter, which gives the synchronizers time to work and allows the RPMs to fall to match to the next higher gear.

So many people shift with a pistol-grip hold on the shifter, hard and fast, followed by power on the clutch as they let it out, for a satisfying jerk. Even better, some change to a short-shift linkage to speed things up further. And some follow the same procedure when slowing down, cramming the shifter into each lower gear and popping the clutch out.

phil2000 · December 2009

How do I know whether to change a half shaft? The boot failed some time ago and the dealer said he would not know if it needed a half shaft until he got it up in the air.

aatherton · December 2009

The half shaft has suffered some wear, depending on how many miles are on it, on how long ago the boot split and on how much lubricant was lost. Evidently it has not suffered enough wear for you to tell by noise or feel. The dealer is saying that he can't tell how much wear the half shaft has suffered until he can look at it.

Since you could not hear or feel the wear, and if you are reluctant to spend money on repairs, you will be tempted to keep the half shaft until it fails, no matter what the dealer says.

However, you must have the boot replaced, which requires removal of the old half shaft, and so you will have invested much of the cost of replacing the half shaft in just replacing the boot. Eventually, not replacing a worn half shaft now will cost you more later from repeating the labor.

The only reasons for not replacing the worn half shaft now are that it has suffered no wear at all, or you expect to have more money in the future, or you do not expect to keep the car for much longer.

ateixeira · December 2009

We replaced a boot on our 626, IIRC it was under a grand, but the half shaft was OK.

We didn't keep the car long after that, so I can't tell you how the fix worked long-term.

phil2000 · December 2009

I put a Speedy Boot(split boot) on a a few years ago. Now the split has failed, thought there does not appear to be any grease coming out. I do not know how long the split occurred.

I need to replace the boots for the tie-rods and since the dealer has to do a lot of the same work for both, I was trying to see if I should buy a half shaft or just the boot. Oh and just a heads up, my Forester has 310,793 miles.

255kmiles · December 2009

My 2001 legacy wagon died suddenly while accelerating approx. 2 minutes after a cold start.
The check engine light never came on.
I pulled a plug and it has good spark.
I took off the timing belt cover and it looks good.
The car will crank fine, but doesn't seem to even try to catch.
What could be wrong?

hammerhead · December 2009

Fuel pump? (either the pump or the power to it)

Just a guess... its either air, fuel, or spark, and you have spark.

255kmiles · January 2010

what is the best way to check for fuel?
Where is the fuel pump on this car?
This is the first car I have owned that had fuel injection.

bigdadi118 · January 2010

Clutch and hill holder system should be INSPECTED every 15k miles, the maintenance didn't say anything re replacement.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html

ateixeira · January 2010

311k, yowsah! :surprise:

You're a senior member of the quarter million mile club. :shades:

phil2000 · January 2010

There must be people more senior than me. Someone at my job has 325K.

I have decided to go axle replacement route. Carpartswholesale.com has the following:
A1 Cardone Front, passenger side Axle Assembly - Cardone select
for 2000 Subaru Forester S 4 Cyl 2.5L for $69.46.

Someone asked me where my service history might be. Where could I upload it to for people to read?

ateixeira · January 2010

Under $70 is CHEAP, wow.

You can open a CarSpace account and host images, but only one at a time. I don't think it will host a multi-page PDF file.

Correct me if I'm wrong, folks.

kyfdx · January 2010

Anyone had issues?

I was flipping mine up, and heard a cracking noise.. Now it's lost all friction... just hangs straight down. Sounds like a minor problem, right? Literally, impossible to drive with it that way. The only way to get it out of your field of vision, is to swing it to the side... and, then you've lost all protection from the sun in your face.

'08 Subaru Impreza..

Dealer service was already closed today, when it happened. Fortunately, I'm off Monday, as they are only open from 8-6.. I hate dealing with crap like this... waiting for them to tell me that isn't covered by warranty... lol.

255kmiles · January 2010

It was the fuel pump.
after searching online I found out the fuel pump is accessible under the rear passenger side seat. It still took me a while to find it, under the sound proofing layer, which was stuck down.
Once I got it out putting 12 v. across each terminal and ground got no response other than a spark when I found out which terminal was ground.
Also checked the connector with the key on and was getting 12v at one terminal there.
So I got a new fuel pump and everything is good.

maisto99 · January 2010

Have you replaced the strainer in the fuel tank? I had an issue exactely like yours in another car, I replaced the fuel pump and blew the line only to experience the issue again. Come to find out it was the strainer. It cost me $20 dollar and about 2 hours of my time to drain the gas and remove the tank to replace the strainer. I hope that helps.

bigdadi118 · January 2010

Carspace add photo :
You must use .gif or .jpg files - .bmp files cannot be accepted at this time. So I don't know whether .pdf is accepted for uploading.

You can search free hosting, free storage space online then upload your file there and post the link here.

There is www.transferbigfile.com for the rescue if the file is too large. You can upload file and email the link to other receipants, or to yourself. The drawback is file stores there for 5 days only.

ateixeira · January 2010

That's the kind of thing covered for 12 months under the adjustment period. Depends on when you bought, but probably not.

Should be cheap to replace, though, it's just plastic.

kyfdx · January 2010

Yeah.. I'm past the 12 months...

Not really an adjustment... It's broken. I'd think that should be warrantied (but, I'm betting it isn't).

Then again, I think I should be able to purchase a battery cover for my wife's Nokia phone, if it comes off and she loses it.. But, Nokia evidently thinks I'd be better off buying a new phone, instead.. And, then.. have the temerity to ask if there is any other way they can help me. :surprise: Ah... I digress..

ateixeira · January 2010

Guess it depends if they think it was a mistake in manufacturing, wear and tear, or breakage due to mis-use.

Are you an angry person who bangs on the visor every time someone cuts you off?

LOL

phil2000 · January 2010

Can someone describe to me how "power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip" works on the rear end of my 2000 Forester?

kyfdx · January 2010

Well.. good news!

I was off today, so I just drove over to the dealership this morning... She said since the car was in warranty, she had to have a tech look at it, plus wasn't sure they would have another visor in stock.

Went across the street to Dunkin Donuts for coffee... called me on my cell about 40 minutes later, and they had replaced the visor.

Under warranty...no charge.. and, without an appointment..

I'm still ticked off at Nokia, though...

phil2000 · January 2010

Repair history is on the following blog:

http://www.carspace.com/blogs/2000Forester/

lucien2 · January 2010

well it finally got worse, leaving me nearly stranded at every stop, and running very rough (akin to "limp mode") unless allowed to sit for a couple of hours. Took it in yesterday, the CEL is for the IACV :sick: so there goes another $500. I figure the car needs to be trouble free for the next 6 months in order to remain cheaper than a car payment..it has soaked up a lot of cash in the last 18 months. OTOH, I don't want 2 payments at the same time, so.....I fix.

ateixeira · January 2010

If you have an L model it has an open rear diff so it doesn't transfer power side to side on the rear axle at all.

If you have an S model it has a viscous limited-slip rear differential. If the two wheels spin at different speeds, the fluid sheers and the heat thickens the fluid, temporarily locking the two sides together, preventing the one side from slipping uselessly.

girlcarbuilder · January 2010

I always tell people on expensive parts like that one......see what years/models it goes on. See what years before and after you may be able to engineer to fit. First part requires research with either Hollanders or at the junkyard. The second part requires understanding what the part does and how it works. You can also research on web parts houses like rockauto.com and compare part numbers from year to years.

If I am not mistaken, you are referring to the idle air control valve. A very simple part that could either be clogged, mechanically stuck or the electric coil is open. In the same order comes the ease of repair. A lot of these valves are just bolt in deals and cost around $500. I walked out of a junk yard a few years back with one for almost nothing!

Now that the dealer has it, look out for your tution......hmm, you will know that rough idle the next time you see it! To verify it, you pull the small air hose going to the throttle body. Idle improves, that is the problem. So much for using a trouble code! Common sense goes a long way before the computer is even used. Sadly, that comes with experience and sometimes a lot of money.

I am in many forums, but have little time to respond, so I pick carefully what I can physically respond to. This is one of those rare expensive easy to fix ones.

Good luck! Your check book will need it.

phil2000 · January 2010

What kind of preventive maintenance does the S model (w/311,217 miles) require? I got stuck in the snow a couple of weeks ago and now I have hum coming from the rear of the Forester starting at 40 mph.

lucien2 · January 2010

ya, thanks! I learned quick on NASIOC that this could be cheaper if I were willing to to work on it myself. But it's 22F degrees, I don't have a garage, and I'm stranded without the car. So I pay. :sick:

samiam_68 · January 2010

Perhaps time to change the rear diffy fluid?

rebel71 · January 2010

I've noticed on my last 3 Subaru's 2005-2008 that the headlight visibility is quite poor. The cutoff is quite sharp and doesn't seem to illuminate too far ahead and too low. Especially to be able to see pedestrians and animals. They can't be adjusted and was told by service tech that if I were to put HID bulbs in it would void the warranty not to mention people that do have them in their cars, Subarus eat them up and are changing them about every six months. Anyone else experience this?

lucien2 · January 2010

We've had several Soobs throughout the years. Our 1999's had decent lighting for many years. The one that is still with us suffers from degrading plastic on the outside- getting cloudy, but that's age. For its time, I think the lighting was adequate, but not great.

I would say the same thing of the 1998 Impreza that was in our stable for 18 months or so. Adequate but nothing more.

Our 2004 Forester had better lights. Much better, indicative of a company-wide upgrade. It did have a sharp cut-off at the top, to avoid throwing light into the lead car's rearview mirror, which I can appreciate. Its lighting was every bit as good as...

...the 2008 Camry that was with us for a year and a half. this car also had a well-defined top cut-off, and overall very good lighting (as did the Forester). None of them hold a candle

to our newest addition...

...a 2008 Mini Cooper Clubman S with Xenon HID. This car has a razor sharp top cut-off, absolutely needed to avoid blinding someone's rearview mirrors. Lighting is outstanding, with plenty of throw and also sweep, but without glaring into oncoming traffic (unless it hits a bump of course).

girlcarbuilder · January 2010

I usually do not respond to this question, but I have seen it come up several times.

First, for aging plastic, there is a headlight polish that can be bought to clean up the yellowing plastic. Even some Wal-Marts are offering that service.

Now for aiming. Every car I have seen so far does have adjustment screws somewhere. Some are a real pain to get to. Learn first how to properly adjust headlamps, then get a service manual to find where the adjustment screws are for your year, make and model. The newest here an '09 Toyota Yaris and even it has adjustment screws. So I strongly suspect the Subaru's have them as well and someone is too lazy to adjust them. Many dealers are! Not to mention many people do not want to pay labor rates for that service!

phil2000 · January 2010

I used to subscribe to the belief that you can never tighten a bolt to much. Well...

Yes you can. A couple of months ago I went to take a rear wheel off and the lug was torque on so well that it broke when I removed it. So since then I have been driving with four instead of five lugs. Earlier this wheel went I replaced that same tire, I torqued the other bolts to compensate, POP there went number 2. Now I have three lugs holding a tire that takes five. Needless to say I have an appointment with the dealer to correct my zealous approach to mechanical fasteners.

I now follow the owners manual for torquing on the lugs and us a torque wrench set to 88 Nm. I no longer use my breaker bar to put the lugs on. The breaker bar lived up to its name.

lucien2 · January 2010

agreed. I know Subes have them, after a fender bender repair my mechanic noted that one was aimed poorly and fixed it.

easypar · January 2010

girlcarbuilder wrote; "First, for aging plastic, there is a headlight polish that can be bought to clean up the yellowing plastic"

I use a product called "Scratch Out" for removing the fine scratches from clear coat. It's liqufied polishing compound but seems to be of a finer "grit". IIRC it's about $1.00 for a small bottle and it works great. Since we tend to keep out cars a long time it has brightened many an evening for us.

easypar

stever · January 2010

Gel toothpaste supposedly works too.

Healing Hazy Headlamps

I ran an errand in the fog last night and noticed that my low beams really converged in the center of the road - I'm wondering if more of the right light should be illuminating the right side of the road.

phil2000 · January 2010

Any recommendations for fluid Sam or anyone else for that matter?

xwesx · January 2010

75w-90 gear oil, or 80w-90 if you live in a warmer climate. I find synthetics stay fluid better in extreme cold, but I do not think you have to deal with such extremes.

I use Amsoil 75w-90 severe gear in mine and sure appreciate it when the temps drop to -25F and colder.

phil2000 · January 2010

Since I am in New Jersey and would jump off the nearest bridge if it go to -25F (I hate +25F). The first weight should do me fine. Should a quart do me? And while I am there is there anything else I should do (gasket, etc.)? Remember I am at 311,296 miles.

xwesx · January 2010

Haha; yeah, 80w-90 should do you fine, then. Specs state that the rear differential holds 1.7 pints, so you should be fine with a quart. Due to the limited clearance, you cannot "pour" the oil into the differential - you need to pump it. So, if you do not have a hand pump, you should pick one up as it will make the job much more simple (they're pretty cheap and screw on to the top of the bottle). Just make sure you remove the TOP screw (a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, without any attachments, is the tool for this job!) before the bottom one! Sometimes these can be really stubborn, and if you get the bottom off to drain the fluid but cannot remove the top one, you will find yourself up a certain creek without a paddle....

As far as the differential goes, I don't think so (unless something is leaking). Have you replaced the fluid in the front differential? If not, you may consider doing that as well. Specs indicate 2.6 pints for that.

lucien2 · January 2010

...may be getting taken to the cleaners by a mechanic again. From her email today... (names erased) Oh, it's a BH5 Outback with around 50k on it

" Well, it would appear that the niggling concerns I had about the ****** station were warranted. ***** found several items that should have been taken care of in a 40 thousand checkup and weren't. Beyond that, the rear left axle shaft (not sure I have the proper lexicon) needed to be replaced...$$. Other significant items were not in my budget and will be done another day and the service manager was o.k. with that. None are dangerous but I cannot wait too long, i.e.: power steering fluid is dirty and needs to be flushed. Now I gotta believe that it should have been done by *****. All in all, I have new tires, an alignment check, changed oil, topped off wiper fluids, serviced battery (he confirmed it was fine) but needed cleaning and a coating. I really liked **** and told him I was looking forward to a long and enduring motor/servicing relationship. I am going to pick up the car tonight...I hope the bill doesn't crimp my enthusiasm. "

Now, she did need tires, which I helped her get from TR. But...alignment check? Battery service? puhleeze. And a rear half shaft at 50k, from a grandma? Hmmm....

sgloon · January 2010

When I first bought my '86 Subie Hatchback, new, I took it back to the dealer to get the lights adjusted.

I was told it is their policy not to adjust any lights as they didn't want the responsibility. I ended up finding the directions in one of the car books (Haynes perhaps) for my car and it was a 5 minute job. All you needed was a wall to aim the headlights at to set them and a screw driver, of course. I used my garage door.

I am glad you noted this, as this has been bothering me with my 2010 forester, the lights are way to low and appear to be aimed too much to the center so nothing beyond the side of the car is illuminated. This is dangerous. Perhaps they are using LEDs which are very directional lighting. I'm gonna have to take a look and see how to adjust these...

xwesx · January 2010

That surprise me (re: 2010 Forester). Perhaps it is something done after it entered your state? The lighting on my forester is amazing. The low beams light up the road as well as any of my other vehicles' high beams, and the highs (which come on in concert with the lows) are the equivalent of dedicated driving lights. They are so good, in fact, I did not bother to install a set of auxiliary driving lights, which I normally do on every vehicle I own. :shades:

Good luck with adjusting yours. I have not looked but, as stated by others, they certainly have adjustment screws.

Oh, and how is that 2010 doing for you? I know your 2009 about killed you....

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