Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

rebel71 · June 2010

Hi all, I had my 08 Legacy wheel bearing fail @ 13,000 miles but wasn't replaced till 26,000 because dealer didn't hear noise. I told them early on that I suspect it was bearing. It's frustrating and scary to know that I drove over a year on that bearing before it was fixed and who knows what other damage down the road the car has incurred because of this. I noticed that Subaru had a recall for 05-06 Legacy/Outback bearings. I've looked at nhtsa.gov and did some research for years 05-08 Legacy/Outback and noticed that there are people reporting wheel bearing failure w/08 models. They seem to be failing prematurely and without a fix to the problem except to keep replacing them. I sent Subaru an email and suggested that they might want to investigate the mfg. of the bearings. Their wheel bearing issue is not a fluke, it dates back past 05. The bearings are failing for a reason Subaru look into it. :mad: They didn't acknowledge my email except sorry and thanks for choosing Subaru. I also realize that other car mfg. have their issues too. I was hoping that they would consider this an important safety issue as I do. I've had experience w/my 96 Impreza bearing at 45,000 and again @ 63,000 same wheel. As well as the 05Legacy and 06 Outback recall. I was lucky this one was covered under warranty, next time it's out of pocket. I enjoy driving my Subaru but very frustrating to deal w/the same problems. Oh yes, for the question any opinions as to why the bearings keep failing in Subaru's? I know this was a long post and thanks for letting me get my long winded story out.

lg05legacy · June 2010

Rebel71: I have an 05 Legacy and your post about a wheel bearing recall concerned me... would you be able to post a link to where you found the recall information?

greatly appreciated

rebel71 · June 2010

If you are the original owner the letter should have been sent to you, it was dated 5/08. I found the information through two websites: 1) Subaru.com look under "My Subaru" online publications and Tech Service Information. and it'll prompt you to enter year,model etc. its under rear wheel bearing extended warranty program. Subaru found that the bearings over time may develop a whining noise but doesn't pose a safety problem, if you should experience this bring to dealer to replace the bearing. They extended the warranty coverage for your rear wheel bearings to 8 years or 100,000miles. Subaru's website keeps you up to date on everything about your car. I'm a little OCD about my cars and am always making sure I have the latest info. The other website that I find informative is NHTSA.gov, it has a wealth of knowledge for all car mfg. regarding safety, recalls complaints etc. I can't help it I love cars!! I hope this helps you.

ateixeira · June 2010

I've replaced wheel bearings on our Mazda 626 and on our Mitsubishi Mirage before that, so it's not an uncommon thing to have to do.

For a 2008 it's premature, though.

lg05legacy · June 2010

Thanks Rebel71. That was helpful info. Placed a call to my dealer as soon as I saw your post just to see if it had been performed (bought car used).

rebel71 · June 2010

You're most welcome.

awang44 · July 2010

Thank you for the comment Fibber. I took it to the dealer and the dealer said the previous guy clearly over charged it. They released/recharged to the right level and the A/C is back to somewhat working state, blowing cold but not enough to cool down under sunlight at 80F. When the car is in Drive but break engaged at a red light, the compressor is louder and the engaging/disengaging is more frequent...

resolution: I traded it in for a Forester... :P

fibber2 · July 2010

So the excessive cycling was due to the overpressure switch doing it's job. Too bad to hear that you had to go thru this mess, but it sounds like it was just the ticket to get you into a new Forester!

Hopefully they will address the possibly now damaged compressor, and send it on to the next owner in better shape.

Glad we were able to help.

parent1 · July 2010

Fellow Subaru Owners,

I own a 2008 OB with 37,000 miles. This morning when I started the car, I realized that my air conditioner was not blowing cold air. A short while later, the Check Engine Light came on which was accompanied by the common, flashing Cruise Control light. This was extremely surprising because the A/C has been working perfectly. This was also extremely annoying since I live in south Texas and in reached 98F today!

I pulled the ECU code and discovered the code was the ominous P0420, which as many of you know, suggests inadequacies with the catalytic converter / O2 sensors. My question is of the "which came first" variety. That is, did the A/C malfunction trigger the CEL, or would the P0420 code cause the A/C to deactivate (like the cruise control does)? This sounds like a stretch, but I have very little desire to pay for A/C repairs.

If the A/C problem is not related to the P0420 code, what should my first troubleshooting task be to address the A/C problem? Please let me know if you need further information. One final note, and Im not sure if this is of importance, when Hurricane Alex hit Mexico last week, we received intense rain. Accordingly, there was a lot of wet driving; could this possibly trigger malfunctions in the A/C?

Thanks for the help. All the best.

carbuff33 · July 2010

My 5 speed Impreza has had a pinging problem since new. Grade of gas used has made no difference. It is worse in hot temperatures and occures under light throttle conditions. Been back to the dealer 3 times. Knock sensor was tested and found to be working. Drove a new Impreza under same conditions and no pinging was noticed. Has anyone had this same problem and how was it fixed?

fibber2 · July 2010

Interesting... Under normal circumstances, I'd say without a doubt there is no logical connection between the events. The P0420 is a catalytic efficiency check as measured by the rear oxygen sensor, and really doesn't impact driveability at all. It's just a tattletale code, as the rear sensor is not part of the ECU feedback system.

However... as you pointed out with the cruise control light, sometimes mfgrs do interesting things to get your attention and prompt you to fix things. But disable the climate control system? Rather draconian, wouldn't you say?

More likely, your deep water experience has had an impact on multiple subsystems, and these two took a hit. It could be wet/corroded connectors.

Start by listening to the AC compressor clutch to see if it is engaging. You will see the center section lock in and spin, you will hear the compressor whine, and note a change in idle speed and maybe a shake as the throttle is goosed by the ECU to compensate for the load. If it doesn't, begin by looking for a blown fuse. Next, pull the connector at the compressor and check for 12v applied when you have the controls set on AC.

On the Cat, start by resetting and see if it returns. If it does, get under the car and check for good clean and tight electrical connections at the rear oxygen sensor.

More when you check these and report. Good luck.

rebel71 · July 2010

I noticed from first day I bought vehicle that the left trunk hinge made a squeaking sound. I thought it just needs lubrication tried some silicone spray, didn't help. I brought it to dealer and they confirmed squeak and replaced the hinge. Now the right side is squeaking. I was told that these hinges can't be lubricated. The trunk on left side doesn't line up well with body of car. There is a good size gap also noticed from day one. Dealer realigned trunk and it's still off. Dealer said that some trunks come like that from mfg. it might have been the way it was stamped. Hmm...I'm thinking I want to ask them to replace the right hinge and ask for new trunk lid. I'm not sure if a new trunk lid would fix the gap issue. Any idea?

Thank you

rebel71 · July 2010

I assumed my Subaru dealer used dynamic balancing for tires, it never came into question. Ok, I forgot to ask. They use static balancing and have been for 30 years w/ no issue I was told. I wrote to Subaru and asked if static balancing was ok. They replied that we do not recommend static balancing. Roadforce or dynamic balancing is what we would recommend. I asked why and they never got back to me. Hope this info helps.

phil2000 · July 2010

Does anyone know the quality of the following parts you can order from "Car Parts Wholesale" BECK ARNLEY($34) or MEVOTECH($38) or MOOG($38) TIE ROD END? Thanks

phil2000 · July 2010

Do you know the quality of the following parts you can order from "Car Parts Wholesale" BECK ARNLEY($34) or MEVOTECH($38) or MOOG($38) TIE ROD END? Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks

girlcarbuilder · July 2010

Subaru bearings are always going to be NTN or KOYO made in Japan. Anything else in the box, do not buy it! Beck Arnely are reboxed of the above brands, so is Timken, so is National which is part of the Moog big picture of companies, Federal Mogal. I look at Rockauto.com and look who is selling the cheapest.

On another note especially on rear AWD units, be very sure that the seals are pressed all the way in and the drive shaft mating surface is smooth. Contrary to ads, the rear wheels assemblies do not fare well in water and mud.

On the tie rod, I get MOOG from O'reilly's and have a lifetime warranty. They have eaten many a warranted part from me. Keep your receipt!

rsilverman1 · July 2010

I have a 2009 Forester with about 25K miles. For the past couple of oil services, the dealer recommends that the power steering fluid be changed. I repeatedly declined. He says it is brown. I have never changed power steering fluid in any Subaru (or car) that I have ever owned. It is not recommended in the Subaru manual. The reservoir is translucent plastic and so it it easy to see the fluid color. In all past cars that I've owned, it was solid metal. Is brownish tinged fluid normal or is the dealer trying to perform an unnecessary $120 service? Any comments appreciated.
Thanks---

girlcarbuilder · July 2010

I know the earlier models use Dextron which is red in color. If it is turning brown this early, then a cooler needs to be added to the system and the fluid changed. On another note, is the color change from heat or degradation of parts in the system? If the latter, seriously consider putting in an inline filter system. Take the dip and wipe it off with a white towel. See what color it is. If it is brown, changing it is easy. Not possible to get it all out, just most of it. Pull the return line and drain reservoir. Pay attention to the mounting. I found the 2003 had the reservoir below the pump which can starve the pump and burn it out. That line to the pump must have fluid in it for it to work; so raise the reservoir to fill that line back up. Keep the hole to return line plugged with a finger until you lower the reservoir and quickly slip the return line back on and clamp it. Make sure you clean up any spills to prevent engine fires.

When it is all said and done save $70, send me $50 for helping out....don't we all wish! LOL Yup, dealers are quick to take you for a ride for a simple job. Auto designers are making it harder to service, but the basics do not change. Just be careful, get a good repair manual and use some common sense and careful thought about how to do a task before you do it and you will do fine.

On another note: The trucking industry also uses inline filters for both the transmission and power steering to extend the life of the units. I have begun installing them in the older Subarus in fleet service here. The first a 94 with a 175K returned to service recently. Go to http://www.magnefine.com/ they have the best price I have seen anywhere. On automatic transmissions, if you can get a cooler installed, do so, it will extend the life of the transmission a lot even if you do not tow.

bigdadi118 · July 2010

When a new car arrives dealer lot, dealer has to hood up something before showing to the public. If they forget to do this then the CEL will come on.

kevin111 · July 2010

I have an '02 WRX with over 130k miles. After 30 minutes the engine gets coarse and loud. I was wondering if there is a concern of the turbo going? If so, how much is a replacement turbo?

Generally, the car has been very good to me, even with a great deal of hard driving. Great car.

rsilverman1 · July 2010

Thanks, girlcarbuilder, for your comments. It does use Dexron ATF fluid. I checked the color and it is definitely not red (it was a clear, light tan color) and there was some black sludge on the bottom of the dipstick. Since this is a relatively new car and still under warranty I don't want to do any mods (yet!) like adding a cooler or filter. Besides this shouldn't be necessary since Subaru designed this system without either one.

My question now is: Why is this happening? Is a component in the pump or system (hose lining, a seal, or etc?) that is deteriorating causing this to happen? If so I need to have this addressed as a warranty issue. Hopefully with some more info I can make a case, if necessary.

As before, any comments appreciated.
Thanks---

rebel71 · July 2010

Hi all,

I'm getting ready to replace my current battery which is 490 CCA. I want to install a battery w/ 625-650 CCA I'm wondering if it would be ok?

Thank you

rebel71 · July 2010

Hi again, I was wondering if I have to rebalance my tires every time I switch to my winter set of tires?

Thanks

kurtamaxxxguy · July 2010

My service advisor is recommending a transmission fluid exchange (a machine which actually pumps new fluid through the transmission, cleaning out old crud, etc.).

Have folks here had any experience with that type of transmission service for their Subarus (mine is an '09 Forester XT) ?

girlcarbuilder · July 2010

You are most correct about why the fluid is changing color. It is debris from the system breaking in. Metal to metal wearing, hose breaking down slowly and so on. Cutting down on it in circulation is key at some point in life. As for filters, I understand your warranty concerns. I would add the filter system after that. When you check A1 cardone websites about reman rack and pinion units or pumps, you will find it is a warranty requirement on reman units to install the filter system. The filter goes in the return line.

As for Subies in general the ones here are all Legacy, 94,97 and one 03 Impeza. If I recall correctly they all use the same rack unit. The 97 last time it was here from St. Louis, MO was 262K miles. They all have original racks. The 94 got the first filter system. The others will when they come south again. Primary reason for the install is to clean up the system and cut down on wearing it out even if these units entered the fleet late in life.

girlcarbuilder · July 2010

an 09? I might consider that at 60K to 100k. Besides you need to look at him and ask how that is going to clean out all of the crude in the torque convertor? I promise he will either squirm or lie like a dog. It will not! There is always going to be some trash in the system. Always drain and change the inside filter in the pan and then I would add an inline filter from http://www.magnefinefilters.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm . This is what a lot of fleets do. From then on it will be drain fluid and change inline filter every 30K for the filter. This is the best way to keep them clean in the first place. If possible add a cooler as well. Keeping the heat down extends life as well. Subie grilles are very tight on room.

girlcarbuilder · July 2010

I always put the biggest battery in that will fit properly. Not a problem. Way too many times that extra capacity has come in handy. Besides, some of the older 4 bangers here are packing enough CCA to start a large V-8! Even when the battery is half dead it will still start up a 4 banger right up!

girlcarbuilder · July 2010

This is about turbo's in general. AKA trouble in my book. The bearings in these units are the biggest headache because that is what usually fails not to mention having seized bolts, nuts and or studs when it comes to disassembly. There are many reasons why many of these cars do not make it past 10 years of age....the number one being additional maintenance to keep it right not being done or properly done.

Go to Harbor freight and get a stethoscope and find your noise source if you have one. If you do have a noisy turbo bearings you need to do a tear down asap, because when they go, they go big time. I would also check and see what service interval guidelines are out there to gain insight when to service...assuming you have a serviceable unit.

Hope this helps out.

colin_l · July 2010

The stock WRX turbo is very cheap secondhand because a fair number of enthusiasts upgrade. (There are several direct bolt-on upgrades, but you will still need to remap the ECU or use piggyback computers if you use anything other than stock.)

It has been years and years, so do some of your own research... but I'm thinking that a number of 2002 - 2003 USDM WRXs had noise and driveability problems from the TGVs.

That's my second guess for your noise, after turbocharger.

More details about it would be helpful, though.

bshumaker · July 2010

i got major problems with my 2002 Subaru outback 4 cylinder about 150k miles... when i first start car will rev way up to almost 3k and then go back and idle at about 1k....when driving and keeping a steady speed the entire car will start jolting back and forth violently and rpm's will move up and down during jolts does not always happen about 3-4 times on my 35 mile trip to work... and would randomly die when i stop.. and the car dying has gotten worst on way home from work last night it died at 6 of the 7 stop lights i stopped.... also about half the time i have no acceleration at all will take 3- 45 sec to get to 50 mph.. and when im got 70 i will push on gas and rpm's don't move at all but car will respond and make noise but will not accelerate ......have been having a shop work on car off and on for almost 5 months trying to fix this problem and they don't no what to check.... have had transmission rebuilt when went out and not have had coil pack, spark plugs, and wires, fuel filter, catalytic converter, and o2 sensor all replaces during this ordeal...... and about ready to just try to get rid of car but i love Subaru and wanna get this fix :confuse: :confuse:

samiam_68 · July 2010

Could be a throttle body or throttle position sensor problem. Any "Check Engine" light codes?

bshumaker · July 2010

forgot to say that the throttle position sensor been replaced too and the engine light does come on sometimes but it hasn't since we replaced the coil pack 3 of the 4 cylinders was missing until we replaced that

ateixeira · July 2010

I agree, no problem with more CCAs, just don't get less.

I put a bigger replacement battery in a 98 Forester and it started better than when new. No problems ever and sold it with that same battery.

phil2000 · July 2010

The dealer told me that I should change all four tires at once. If there is more wear on any tire it would cause the AWD system to work harder to compensate for the slight difference in tire diameters. Right now I have more tread on the fronts than the rears.

mikesdelsol · July 2010

Is there any way to disconnect my daytime running lights????

saedave · July 2010

When you pull on the parking brake they go out on an Outback. That is probably the same on the Impreza. There probably is a way to use that circuit as a control, but why would you want to disengage a safety feature? Any accident is far more costly than low beam headlight and tail light bulbs.

xwesx · July 2010

Dave - even better than that, since the tail lights do not operate with the front DRLs!

One click on the e-brake will turn them off, but as mentioned earlier, you can likely patch into this circuit to override them. There is no "easy fix" to turn them off, though, as it is federally-mandated to the manufacturers.

saedave · July 2010

One click on the e-brake will turn them off, but as mentioned earlier, you can likely patch into this circuit to override them. There is no "easy fix" to turn them off, though, as it is federally-mandated to the manufacturers

Wes, But I'm not sure Canadian models have DRLs which suggests there is an easy, if unwise, fix. Dave

kyfdx · July 2010

I think DRLs are required in Canada....

colin_l · July 2010

Thank goodness DRLs aren't federally mandated in the states.

I'm not a fan. I like fulltime lights on motorcycles, but cars... not so much.

xwesx · July 2010

Interesting.... I did not know that. Turns out that the US does not require vehicles to be equipped with DRL, but most are because of requirements in many other parts of the world (including Canada).

At any rate, the use of the DRL is not mandated, only the inclusion of the feature by manufacturers, so there is no reason an owner could not modify the vehicle to eliminate the feature.

Even though I run all my vehicles with lights on, I personally do not care for the DRL systems at all, as I perceive them to have significantly increased the number of vehicles whose oblivious drivers use them in low/no light conditions without engaging the full lighting system (which includes tail lights!), and I also find it annoying that when I do attempt to shut my lighting system off, the DRL activates.

sgloon · July 2010

I agree with you, there are times I don't want the DLRs on. I have inadvertently NOT turned on my headlights, expecially in the city because there "appeared" to be enough light from the DLRs, so I had naturally thought (without looking) that my headlights were left on. Not a good thing.

The insurance companies here in the US give you a break on your insurance rates as the DLRs are considered an additional safety feature by them. Don't know if it would affect your rates if they find out you had rigged them to be off???

girlcarbuilder · July 2010

Visibility is the reason why DRL's came about. That problem can easily be resolved with a color of vehicle that can be seen more easily like white, yellow and fire truck green! We only recently began purchasing white cars only for this reason not to mention it is a cooler color to cool down in hot weather.

The down side to white is that it can not be easily seen in fog, but neither can DRL's!

Strange, seems a number of drivers can not see white either....but here in Louisiana there are those who will hit you to try to make a fast dollar! Those idiots can not see DRL's either! Like a lock to keep honest people out, DRL's are only meant to help those who LOOK!

I have learned from years of driving, if they can not read the street signs and obey, chances are they can not or will not see you either no matter what color car or lights you use! Just a little thought and insight. They are not on the current 09 Toyota we purchased last year.

kevin111 · July 2010

Taken the car to a mechanic, it is worse than I though - the Transmission. The turbo is actually fine. The car makes a whirling sound that gets louder and higher pitched as the speed increases of the car. Oh well. It sounds like the turbo is cheap to replace, but the transmission is a whole different arena. $2000 for a used replacement?

colin_l · July 2010

Ouch, the 'glassbox' strikes again.

There are many aftermarket gearsets available for the 5 speed transmission, but they don't really guarantee the problem will be permanently solved. If you have an organic clutch and drive reasonably, a rebuild should last another 100k, since you made it 100k on the original one.

The real solution for Subaru was the much larger and stronger 6MT but they are very expensive used because every enthusiast with a 5MT wants one.

kaie · August 2010

I am about to buy a 2007 Subaru Impreza. It's a hatchback and standard. It's a reconditioned car with a mileage of 25000. Reading these reviews, I have realised that people have had many problems with subarus even new ones. I was thinking that i would a few years before having any problems. Unlike you guys, I WOULD BE BUYING THIS CAR WITHOUT A LEASE. I do not have the option of taking it back. Additionally, it costs US 24000 here. I just like the look of the car but am not interested in the speed nor grip, etc. i don't plan to be driving fast and I live in a tropical country so no snow. i am a novice when it comes to cars so i am seeking some advice and you all know more about subarus than i do. Would you advise me to purchase it still or not?

snoogs51 · August 2010

Outstanding handling in the snow. But my 2004 Impreza Outback Sport (bought new) developed piston slap at 11,000 miles. Dealer said they all do that. I was told that problem was corrected in 2003. Have seen postings about piston slap in models as late as 2005. Had a rebuild on the motor ar 29,000, which then lead to a short block at 32,000 miles, all covered under warrenty. Has been fine since and now has 81,000 miles on it. Not happy with interior wear. Probably will never buy another Subaru, but my sister swears by them. She lives in Conn. I'm in NJ. And the same year i bought my Subie, she bought a Chevy. Who'd have thunk it?

phil2000 · August 2010

I bought my Forester new in November of 1999 over the internet. It was delivered to my house by the salesmen. I did not start running into problems until around 175,000 miles. And the problems were a result of my approach to taking care of the car myself. Also being cheap as well.

Even though it has 326,000+, it is still a reliable car. It is a blessing. If I could aford a car note, I would get another Subaru.

kaie · August 2010

Thanks a lot. I still have one day before i decide. I will do some research on the prices of some of its parts as i will have to get them from online. Parts here, in Barbados, (in the Caribbean) are extremely expensive. Also, i am not getting it under warranty since i would be buying it from someone who just brought it in from japan.

ateixeira · August 2010

IIRC the rule is no more than 1/4" variance in tire circumference.

At least they tend to wear evenly. FWD cars I've owned wear the front tires out way, way before the rears. AWD wear more evenly, though the fronts still wear faster, probably due to braking/steering.

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