Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

1…372373375377378…385

Comments

  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,830
    A lot of cars have gone to the "experienced-based" change... Honda does this now, as well...

    But, as an example, my 2002 CR-V recommended normal changes at 10K.. that was on normal oil, not synthetic....

    I'm sure an EVO has a little tougher life than a CR-V.... ;)

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    So... Amsoil recommends 7500 or 10K changes with full-synthetic?

    Wow...

    That's the manufacturer-recommended service interval for most cars, using dino oil..

    I said that WE at our shop don't recommend over 7-10k miles on Amsoil, this is when Subaru suggested 3750 changes for the turbo cars. Also don't forget that our clients are all located in the NY/NJ area where it is all stop and go traffic which falls under the very severe driving conditions.

    Amsoil suggests 25k for non-turbos, and 15k for turbo vehicles.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,830
    Ahh....

    Thanks for the clarification....

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Since I only have 420 miles on the Outback, I will wait until 199K to change over to synthetic.

    I am going to start using my cruise control this week. I will drive 10 miles at one speed and 10 at another. Off the highway, I will stick with the pedal. For the last 300 miles, I used the pedal. The rings should be seating.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited February 2011
    There was a widely held belief that a certain amount of friction was required to properly seat & seal new components. That is part of the break in process. For that reason, conventional oils were preferred. They provided good lubrication properties - but not TOO GOOD. A little friction allowed enough metal-on-metal contact (at the micrometer level) to buff off the rough spots and allow rings to seal to cylinder walls, valves to seal to seats, etc. If you changed to super lubes (engineered lubricants - synthetics) too early, you never achieved the best seal, and oil consumption would remain high. For that reason, it was recommended that you not change from conventional to synthetic until xxK miles or so (fill in the blank - 10k, 15k - differing opinions). I switched my '02 at around 20k and have stayed with M1 since. Given that I only put on under 9k miles per year, I simply change it every 6 months.

    Better machining and finishing practices (tighter engines at the start) have probably made this a non-issue. A number of cars now come from the factory with either synthetic or some kind of break-in additive, or a specific 'don't do the first change until 10k miles' type of clause (Honda, for example) to achieve full sealing.
  • fendertweedfendertweed Member Posts: 98
    True, although it may be worth doing one now & then because you'll get more info than just whether your oil is OK (wear indicators etc.).

    I did one at 3k on my factory fill ('09 OB 2.5i) and the analysis said time to change (wear metals). Did one after ~3,750 w/ Mobil 1 and no surprise, tested just about "as new"; Did one after 7,500 with the dealer's synth (can't recall what it is now -- Castrol? = darn I'm getting old) and it tested just fine.

    So from that we establish no surprise, that a 7,500-10k interval on a nonturbo is just fine. I typically use RedLine, Amsoil, or Mobil1 when I'm supplying the oil but for now (at 20k miles) up to the 30k service I'll go to the dealer (they're reasonably priced & convenient) to establish a relationship, then I'll be back to my long time friend's indep shop.

    I still have concerns about going more than 5k on turbos even w/ synth given, e.g., the history of sludge in VW/Audi 1.8t engines, etc. We did 5k Mobil 1 changes in ours and it was fine up to 131k miles when it was totalled.

    cheers,
    Jon
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    True, although it may be worth doing one now & then because you'll get more info than just whether your oil is OK (wear indicators etc.).

    I almost got one last summer for the van, but it was at ~140k then. It just didn't seem worth it on that rig.

    Would an analysis tell me that my '97 OB's head gaskets are about to go?
  • fendertweedfendertweed Member Posts: 98
    not sure about "about to go" but it would show if you had coolant in the oil.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Good point; might be worth it on the Outback.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    It should probably be clarified that the analysis would show trace amounts of coolant - far less than what would be required to discover its presence from a visual inspection. That means you could catch a problem before it starts doing damage to the engine.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fendertweedfendertweed Member Posts: 98
    edited February 2011
    right, good point ... the HG may be gone or about to go big time but you can catch it earlier than waiting for a more dramatic symptom (either visible in oil or mechanical disaster)...

    even though my understanding is that the HG problem is largely corrected by my MY ('09), I'll probably still do a UOA every 30,000 miles or so ... "cheap insurance" as they say and since we have the 3 early readings, it has a good baseline to compare to.

    jc
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited February 2011
    "... my understanding is that the HG problem is largely corrected by my MY ('09)..."

    The HG problem was caused by the open deck cylinder block design, which was not corrected until the new engine for MY 2011.

    The HG problem is only mitigated by changes in the HG design, and by the addition of Subaru Coolant Conditioner, which is Holt's RadWeld. Holt's Radweld contains a sealant compound that solidifies when deprived of water. This happens first in the confines of a compromised HG, and later if the compound should make its way past the gasket and meet air.

    Subaru calls their additive a "conditioner":
    http://homepage.mac.com/smoresi/.Pictures/SOA635071.jpg
    But it is repackaged Holts Radweld "sealant":
    http://www.holtsauto.com/images/prod...radweld-hi.jpg

    A sealant does not prevent a leak. It only tries to stop a leak after it has occurred. Once a leak occurs, the sealant goes to work plugging the path of the leak.

    If the additive is in the coolant before a leak is apparent, you may never know if or when it has gone to work. In that case, you will think it prevented a leak.
    If the additive is used after a leak is apparent, the leak may stop. In that case, you will think it fixed the leak.

    Perhaps the 2009 engine and the HG that apparently only fits it solved the leak problem.
    Otherwise, for peace of mind from HG leaks, one must either buy the longest Subaru Gold extended warranty possible, or buy a Forester with the redesigned 3rd generation 2011 engine, where head coolant does not pass through the HG.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I cannot open your links, but I believe it is actually Radweld Plus, not the baseline product.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited February 2011
    Links are old and now dead. I should have tried them before posting. Point is still valid, that the conditioner is actually a sealant.

    Subaru's original conditioner did come in the same blue bottle as Holt's, even with the name Holt's embossed in the bottle. Subaru merely changed the paper label.
    Here is Holt's product:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/HoltsRadweld.jpg-
    And here is Subaru's:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/HoltsSubaru.jpg

    Apparently Subaru has now gone to Holt's Plus, for improved performance. Especially "Seals coolant to air leaks in Engine block, cylinder head." That is the current description of how Holt's works now. If you don't pour it into the radiator, but try to pre-mix it into coolant, its soft granules turn hard from exposure to air.
    http://www.holtsauto.com/products/group/repair-and-maintenance/cooling-repair-sy- - stems#holts-radweld
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    The blue colored bottle is simply more attractive than the kaopectate tone!

    I've heard that all is well as long as the cooling system stays closed. The stuff stays in suspension until it hits air (at the failed gasket site), and then it seals. The problems arise when the system fails totally and you have to tear it down. Word has it that it can set up like concrete in places you don't want it to!
  • fendertweedfendertweed Member Posts: 98
    interesting, thanks...

    I've been planning to get a Subaru svc contract before my factory coverage expires ...
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Hi, All,

    I'd love to get a recommendation from the group. It looks like I'm going to have to get a hitch for my MT 2010 Forester in order to haul some stuff across the country.

    Last time I had a hitch put on(long time ago), someone just welded it to the under carriage of my 1986 Subie, so, I am way out of touch.

    What are your recommendations? Off brand vs Subaru brand? Is there one I can get that is removable afterwards? Approximate cost?

    I want to have something safe, but minimize my cost, as this will probably be the only time I use it.

    Thanks for your help.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    What's the tongue weight and gross weight of what you intend to pull?

    Despite only intending to use it once, I wouldn't skip here, mainly because the proper solution is rather inexpensive. I've put Draw-Tite hitches on a few vehicles, including my '08 Suzuki G-V.

    Looks like they have a 1.25" and 2" option for the Forester:
    http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/hitchsearch?year=2010&make=Subaru&model=Forester-

    I would get the 2" despite the Forester only being rated to tow 2400lb. You can't do a lot with a 1.25" hitch.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    edited March 2011
    The new units that attach to the car are hitch receivers, and they come in multiple classes. The Subaru unit is a Class II, which has a 1.25" receiver. Cost-wise, I recommend an aftermarket brand - they are less expensive and more readily available. I put a Curt unit on my 2010 Forester, also with manual transmission. I opted for a Class III receiver, which has a 2" receiver and a higher weight rating. It is overkill considering the weight ratings for the car, but I use mine in conjunction with a cargo tray, which puts more stress on the unit than a ball hitch, as well as using it as an attachment point for vehicle recovery (something I do not recommend with a Class II unit!).

    The install can be done professionally or by yourself. It takes approximately an hour and is a simple bolt-on install. I can give you more information in that regard if you are interested in doing it yourself.

    The Curt Class III hitch part number is 13147 and can be had for about $130. You'll also need a wiring harness to connect the trailer lights (plug & play!), which adds about $40.00. I purchased a T-One #118467 for my car. You can either run the wiring out the hatch and just close it in the seal for temporary use, or send it through the spare tire well and under the car for a permanent mount to the outside.

    I highly recommend e-trailer.com as a vendor. They have a good selection and great service!

    That said, I purchased my receiver from Amazon.com as they offer free shipping to Alaska. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Very true, plus the cost difference is negligible in terms of initial investment.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    edited March 2011
    Here are a couple photos of the Curt Class III immediately after install last year. It works great and appears subtle.

    image

    image
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited March 2011
    "... have to get a hitch for my MT 2010 Forester in order to haul some stuff across the country... What are your recommendations? Off brand vs Subaru brand? Is there one I can get that is removable afterwards? Approximate cost? I want to have something safe, but minimize my cost, as this will probably be the only time I use it."

    The OEM hitch is more expensive and complicated to install,. It replaces the internal bumper beam and does not hang below the bumper. It also leaves the tie-down eyes intact.

    The aftermarket hitches are cheaper and easier to install. They use the holes for the tie-down eyes, which are discarded, and they hang below the bumper. One of the holes must be enlarged, and two of the bolts must be "fished" to install them.

    The tie-down eyes are used to hold the car on a flat bed tow truck. In their absence, the driver will find someplace else for his chain hook that is not so good for the car.

    The hitch itself is not a good point:
    http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f74/lets-see-your-hitch-30094/index6.htm- l#post761243
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Thanks for the comments & help!

    I do not know the tongue or gross weight. I'm expecting it will hopefully not be a problem for this vehicle. I'll be pulling a u-haul and filling it with table saw and jointer, possibly a band saw, dining room table w/6 chairs, a couple of overstuffed chairs and a few boxes of stuff.

    $130 sounds doable. The rental for the uhaul one way was about that same cost. Gas will be way worse at the rate it is going up! ;)

    What does the 1.25 vs the 2" mean? I have an old ball somewhere, if I can find it , but not sure what size it would be...
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    I assume from your comments that if I use the aftermarket version that requires enlarging the holes, that I won't be able to screw in the tie-down eyes any more? Did I read that right?

    I believe my tie down eyes for the 2009 that I no longer have were in the spare tire well. I assume this would be true for the 2010? I'll have to get out in daylight hours to check that out...
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Thanks for the pics! They are helpful.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    edited March 2011
    aatherton was referring to the 2008 and under models. The 2010 does not have the same strapping system, and there is no requirement to remove anything.

    For the Class III, which I definitely recommend based on the load you say you intend to haul, I did need to enlarge the holes in order to fish the bolts and washers through. It was a simple process with a Dremel. However, while installing the wiring harness a few months later, I found that the top of the frame rail (accessed from inside the car) has some rather large holes that are covered with some adhesive. Removing that adhesive exposes the top side of the bolt holes, and I strongly suspect one could use that access point to install the bolts without having to modify the frame at all.

    I only wish I would have installed the wiring first so I could have tested that theory for myself. Not only would it have prevented any modification requirement, but it also would have sped up the whole process by 20+ minutes! For a one-hour job, that's significant all by itself.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    What does the 1.25 vs the 2" mean? I have an old ball somewhere, if I can find it , but not sure what size it would be...

    The 1.25 versus 2 inch difference is in the ball mount - the unit that slides into the square receiver shown in the photos I posted earlier. See this page: http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mount for clarification. The ball for this trailer will likely be a 2" (which can be purchased for both the 2" or 1.25" ball mount). 1-7/8" is the size smaller, which is typically reserved for very small utility, watercraft, and ATV trailers. A ball mount and ball will typically run about $20-25 for a basic unit, more for one that is adjustable.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Who knows, you might find other applications for the hitch when it comes down to it. Why, just last week I:

    image

    image
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "Thanks for the pics! They are helpful."

    Here's a video:
    http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Hitch-install-2009-Subaru-Forester.aspx
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited March 2011
    The 2" receiver allows cargo baskets to be carried, but I think they are unsafe for several reasons.
    1. Unlike the OEM hitch which attaches directly on the frame in place of the bumper beam, the aftermarket hitches cantilever more than a foot below and behind the frame.
    2. The cargo platform then extends this cantilever for another two feet.
    3. Loading the platform with a heavy and high load then places a large leveraged tongue load on the attachment points, a load which also twists as it tried to rock from side to side.
    <img src="http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/1/3/13147_2.jpg"
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited March 2011
    I have to agree on this one, and I drove along extra slowly and carefully last time I used my cargo tray. In my case, I have the Subaru 1.25" receiver and am using a 1.25->2.0" adapter between the tray & receiver. I shortened the tubes by modifying the holes so that the lever arm is minimized, but it is still risky.

    At issue is the 200 lb tongue weight spec would normally be measured at the ball. Plus, there is no 'twisting' spec on a ball & receiver, just perpendicular applied force. We have now added a 2 ft lever arm with the tray (think breaker bar), and 30" radius (on a 60" tray) of rotational force. Remember that unit on levers & force multiplication from high school physics?? I was really nervous that I was going to rip the thing off when I hit bumps! It is probably way stronger than I'm giving it credit for (most specs are severely underrated for a reason!), but beware of the risks and go easy on it.

    On the concern about flat bed towing tie down points: some of the Subaru OEM hitches use the car's tie downs as an attachment point, but then provide small welded ears on the hitch assembly to provide a new set of tie downs right nearby. Net is you are good as new.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    I usually buy a name brand hitch designed for the car. Make sure you get the right one load rating. Do not overload.

    Also, if you are using an auto trans, I highly recommend adding an oil cooler and an inline transmission line filter made by microfine. I ordered the last two from NAPA for a 94 currently in heavy service. 60K plus mile bracket.

    We change fluid and those inline filters every 30K miles. Well worth it for having longer life time of the car.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    I have driven a couple thousand miles with the loaded cargo tray, and I have no qualms with it whatsoever. In fact, the next time we cross the continent, that tray is sure to be attached. I think I might build a little kennel on it and put the dog in there if my wife insists on taking her. :shades:

    I wouldn't recommend loading it with more than about 150#, or 100# if the cargo area of the car is loaded up as it does change the driving dynamics of the car with the extra weight out back due to the "levering."
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited March 2011
    "On the concern about flat bed towing tie down points: some of the Subaru OEM hitches use the car's tie downs as an attachment point, but then provide small welded ears on the hitch assembly to provide a new set of tie downs right nearby."

    That was my point, too. Pre-2010, the OEM hitch had a large hole in each cheek or flange, near the attachment points, to replace the tie down eyes replaced by the hitch. This is what I attempted to duplicate with my pre-2010 Curt hitch, but could only drill a small hole in the cheeks -- the steel is thick and hard:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/Forester%20Tie%2- - - 0Down/TieDown1.jpg

    I don't think Subaru intended or planned for aftermarket hitches to be hung on the post-2010 Forester. Pre-2010, you removed the tie downs and then all the hitch bolts, both OEM and aftermarket, threaded right into the holes that were left. Post-2010, those holes were threaded for smaller tie down bolts, and must be drilled out to accept larger aftermarket hitch bolts.

    The whole post-2010 aftermarket hitch situation bothers me.
    1. The pre-threaded holes must be drilled out.
    2. There are fewer bolts (4) than used pre-2010 (5).
    3. There is a large cantilever.
    4. The bolts are vertical rather than horizontal, so the cantilever is pulling the bolts in tension rather than shear. As the hitch tries to pull off the frame, the threads are all that is holding the pull, not the thickness of the bolts.

    Trucks use the same cantilevered hitch, but they use 6 bolts and the bolts are horizontal so in shear.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Having done a lot of towing here are my recommendations.

    1) Make sure the trailer's loaded weight doesn't exceed the towing capacity of your tow vehicle.

    2) Anything over 1k or 1.5k lbs WILL REQUIRE A BRAKE CONTROLLER, if you don't get one and you end up in an accident, you can bet your auto insurance will deny the claim.

    3) Get an external automatic transmission cooler. No need for an extra filter as the OEM trans filter is pretty robust but I would replace it and the fluid every 30k miles.

    4) I would consider using a Uhaul truck with a flatbed trailer instead. Put the forester on the flatbed trailer and put your stuff in the truck. It may be cheaper and easier in the end.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You'll also need a wiring harness to connect the trailer lights (plug & play!)

    Glad to hear that's still the case, as it was for my 1998 model Forester.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    2) Anything over 1k or 1.5k lbs WILL REQUIRE A BRAKE CONTROLLER, if you don't get one and you end up in an accident, you can bet your auto insurance will deny the claim.

    I think I would phrase that differently: If the trailer you are hauling is equipped with electric brakes, you should install a brake controller on the car.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited March 2011
    "No need for an extra filter as the OEM trans filter is pretty robust but I would replace it... every 30k miles."

    The OEM trans filter was deleted in mid-2007 for the 2008 model year.
    For the 2008 MY it was plugged with a bolted cap:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/IMG_0692.jpg
    And for 2009 the filter hole was closed with an integral casting:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/2009ForesterATfi- - lterhole.jpg
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I think I would phrase that differently: If the trailer you are hauling is equipped with electric brakes, you should install a brake controller on the car.

    I'll look up the specs on the Forester but most cars and trucks require brakes over 1-1.5k on the trailer. If the owners manual requires brakes and you don't have them, and you get in an accident, they will deny the claim.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181

    The OEM trans filter was deleted in mid-2007 for the 2008 model year.
    For the 2008 MY it was plugged with a bolted cap:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/IMG_0692.jpg
    And for 2009 the filter hole was closed with an integral casting:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/2009ForesterATfi- - - lterhole.jpg



    Sorry but you are giving out Mis-information. It was not deleted. They moved it to the inner fender well below the battery on the turbo cars. On the non turbo cars it is in the pan.

    No manufacturer would run an AT car with no filter.

    Please stop giving out mis-leading info!

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited March 2011
    Pre-2008, the automatic transmission had an external spin-on filter as shown here:
    http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/15283d12614- - 43974-2005-ob-oil-filter-imag0021.jpg
    and here:
    http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/9540/5064502498b0501f6cfus1.jpg

    For the 2008 MY the filter mount was plugged with a bolted cap:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/IMG_0692.jpg
    And for 2009 the filter mount was closed with an integral casting:
    http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/vintagefortytwo/Forester/2009ForesterATfi- - - - - - lterhole.jpg

    Those photos of the 2008 and 2009 Forester automatic transmissions are not misleading. They show where the external spin-on transmission filter was mounted on the transmissions before mid-2007. It was identical in appearance to an engine oil filter but stenciled with "transmission" to avoid confusion. People with a pre-2008 can look under their left front wheel and see it. And it is frequently mentioned in forums as here:
    http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/subaru/1098/30K-transmission-fluid-flush-and- - - -filter-2002-Forester-L

    After the external spin-on filter was dropped, the internal screen filter remained as the only filter in the transmission, like all cars' automatic transmissions have.

    Are you saying that the turbo cars now have an external transmission filter located in the fender well under the battery? Connected by hoses to the transmission?

    Are you sure you want to label me as giving out mis-information?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Mike, I get what you're saying. However, if the trailer you are pulling is not equipped with brakes (especially if it is the only trailer you anticipate ever pulling), it is a bit foolish to install a brake controller in the car that will see no use. Ergo, keep it simple: If the trailer has brakes, take advantage of them! ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Couple of questions:
    I have a 2010 MT Premium model Forester.

    1. When talking about pre vs post 2010---I don't know which variation actually refers to the 2010?? (pre or post, or if it applies to my car at all?) I think this is more for the hole drilling that I am concerned.

    2. Cost of flat bed or plain truck rental is way too costly. Trying to get the stuff from Maine to Colorado. any other suggestions?

    3. Curt hitch is almost 1/3 the cost of the OEM hitch. ($130 vs $300) wow! Great idea there!

    4. There is discussion about what to do for an AT. I have a MT, is there anything special I should do with regard to MT ?

    5. This will be a one haul trip, as Xwesx mentions, of approximately 2500 miles. So, I expect if the trailer I rent has brakes, that's great, but I expect it might be too small (5x8 or 8x10 size is what I'm looking at)?

    6. Does anyone know how to figure out the weight of this miscellaneous stuff ahead of time? Probably the heaviest stuff will be the table saw, band saw, jointer/planer and some hand tools. The "table" tools are old, so they will be all metal and not much plastic that today's 'new' tools would have. I don't have brands to be able to even try to look anything up. They would have been bought well before internet accessibility, so I expect any specs are unavailable? (Band saw could stay there if it is too heavy.) The furniture will be the real wood type, so is much lighter than the glued composite stuff that is out there now. Thus, I'm thinking that won't be too heavy, more bulky. Furniture looks to be dining room table with 6 chairs, sewing machine cabinet, wood chair and one overstuffed chair.

    Anyone for a road trip? ;)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    edited March 2011
    I love road trips!

    1. The 2009-2011 models are all the same as far as the hitch installation goes. For the Class III unit, minor frame hole modification is necessary. You can get an aftermarket Class II unit, which would not require any modification (as the hardware is smaller). However, it would be subject to the same forces as noted by fibber2 and aatherton, only with smaller hardware.

    2. Not by me - your plan seems reasonable (note comments below).

    4. Nothing special, just note that you are likely to smell clutch burn from time to time, especially if you start on hills, because Subaru clutches are very touchy that way. The transmission itself shouldn't have any problems at all. If you're concerned about it, you might consider replacing the gear oil in the transmission with a synthetic 75w-90 before you embark.

    5. Hard to say regarding the trailer brakes. 5x8 is pretty small and may not have them; an 8x10 most likely will. At this point, you should plan on the cost of the brake controller + install (unless you feel comfortable doing it yourself). I haven't looked recently, but I want to say controllers run about $100? Still, with an aftermarket hitch, you're breaking even compared to the OEM hitch and getting a lot more for your money.

    6. Keep in mind that the weight of items adds up quickly! If you want to weigh things before packing, you might consider buying or borrowing (depending on your friend network!) a flat parcel scale with a remote readout. You could put a base (such as a 4x4 piece of plywood) on it, tare it to remove the plywood's weight, then put each item on individually. If you consider that the (enclosed?) trailer is right at 1,000#, you have about 1,500 of capacity. If you estimate each item at 150 (all chairs would be one item), you can put a max of 10 items in the trailer and you're topped out.

    Now, if you don't think it will be much of an issue, you could load it up, take it to a local scale (such as a landfill or a weigh station) and see how much it weighs. If you end up being significantly over (I would use 10% as my personal mark), take some stuff out.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    edited March 2011
    Oh, I should note that for a single axle trailer, tongue weight will play a significant role in this load... make sure it is well-balanced! I imagine your car will be well-loaded in addition to the trailer, so this is going to be a significant journey for it. Fully inflate your tires (I'd run 40-44 psi rears, 35 front) and spread out your load as much as possible. The more the back end squats, the more "floaty" the steering is going to feel.

    Here's a general-info towing article put out by NHTSA:

    http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/equipment/towing/towing.pdf
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    After the external spin-on filter was dropped, the internal screen filter remained as the only filter in the transmission, like all cars' automatic transmissions have.

    Are you saying that the turbo cars now have an external transmission filter located in the fender well under the battery? Connected by hoses to the transmission?

    Are you sure you want to label me as giving out mis-information?

    Yes, there is an external mounted filter in the fender well under the battery on the newer turbo cars. How do I know this? I run a shop that works exclusively on Subarus and we do 30k/60k services almost daily! So yes that is what I'm saying.

    Sorry but to make a blanket statement about them removing the filter is giving false information.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Mike, I get what you're saying. However, if the trailer you are pulling is not equipped with brakes (especially if it is the only trailer you anticipate ever pulling), it is a bit foolish to install a brake controller in the car that will see no use. Ergo, keep it simple: If the trailer has brakes, take advantage of them!

    Sorry but I still have to disagree. All it takes is one jerk to cut you off trying to exit the freeway to throw your car and trailer into a spin/jackknife. Now you have a wrecked car, wrecked trailer, wrecked person who cut you off's car, possibly injuries, and your insurance company sends you a nice letter to the effect of:

    "We are sorry to inform you that we are denying your accident claim. After a thorough investigation of the wreck, we see you were towing a trailer above the mfg. recommended X,XXX lbs w/o electric brakes. As stated in section XYZ in your policy, operating the vehicle with a trailer without the mfg recommended brakes renders your policy void. Have a nice day"

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    1. When talking about pre vs post 2010---I don't know which variation actually refers to the 2010?? (pre or post, or if it applies to my car at all?) I think this is more for the hole drilling that I am concerned.


    2009-2011 Foresters are all the same chassis so you should be good.


    4. There is discussion about what to do for an AT. I have a MT, is there anything special I should do with regard to MT ?

    Depending on how many miles you have, I would suggest getting your 30k/60k service done at a reputable Subaru shop using synthetic gear lube for the trans/diffys as this will take the most beating while trailering. Add in a coolant additive such as Redline's Water Wetter to the coolant as this will help things stay cool. Also put in synthetic 5w40 motor oil as it's a little thicker and will hold up better to the extra heat you will have while towing.

    Another consideration is that you should plan if possible to do the trip before the hot weather rolls in which will put even more strain on the car.

    5. This will be a one haul trip, as Xwesx mentions, of approximately 2500 miles. So, I expect if the trailer I rent has brakes, that's great, but I expect it might be too small (5x8 or 8x10 size is what I'm looking at)?

    Most Uhaul trailers out there will have what they call surge brakes, where you will not need any kind of brake controller in the vehicle. I know that the dual axle box trailers which is what you will need will have them.

    You will also want to get mirror extensions as the trailer will be wider than your mirrors. They usually sell ones that clip on the edge of your stock mirrors to be able to see around the trailer.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    mike - easy on our colleague, I can vouch that he's been very helpful to others in a few threads. I've even bookmarked a few of his posts.

    Thanks. :shades:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sorry, but he has been off on quite a few things in terms of Subarus. He may know a lot of general car knowledge and "I read on the internet" but this isn't the first thing I've corrected him on!

    :confuse:

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles