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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Ouch, that sounds kind of like you got maybe $3k in trade-in value for your OBW and paid full retail ($23k) for the '08 3.0R LLBean.

    However... the price of no longer worrying is definitely something. Enjoy your new ride!
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited June 2011
    I'm glad to hear that things worked out on your end, but a little bit disappointed. Now we'll have to go thru all of this once again about 3 weeks from now with some noob that found a great deal on a moderately used '01 OBW with this odd cat code problem!!

    (Note to self: Make copy of above post for replay later...)
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    No worries on my end..., and I wouldn't consider a 144k, rust-spotted, dashboard cracked, sunroof leaking and a constant squeaking noise that no Subaru professional could figure out... 'moderately used' :blush:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Congrats on the upgrade. The H6 hasn't had the head gasket issues so hopefully it'll last longer and prove reliable for you.
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    What is everyone's recommendation on the gas. Regular, Middle Grade or Super?

    I keep hearing mixed. Some say just use Regular but Subaru 'recommends' Super.

    Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm a cheap skate so when it's not required, try 87 and see how it goes. If you tow or plan to autocross or something (don't laugh - paisan was competitive in an Outback), then switch up.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Disagree. Start with premium and live with it from day one... I am totally in disfavor of running regular unleaded in any vehicle that states that premium is 'recommended but not required'. Subaru H6, Honda/Acura V6, etc etc.

    Don't do it. I have a lengthy post about it somewhere here on Edmunds...
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    I always used Super on my 2005 H6, but with present higher gas prices I would try both Middle Grade and Super to see how much mpg is degraded with Middle. The H6 is delightful to drive but somewhat thirsty in town driving.
    It got several mpg less than I am getting now on my Forester XT...another engine requiring Super.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    The newer 3.6L H6 is designed to run on regular gas. The older 3.0 H6 is designed to run on premium gas.

    Bob
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I run 90+ octane in my 06 3.0 OB. It will run OK on lower octane but if I really get into the throttle it will hesitate without the higher octane, particularly out of the hole.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Why do automakers skimp on the radio? I have a 2011 Outback with Bluetooth. When I receive a call, the display just says "Call". If I had an aftermark radio, it would have caller ID. And those radio's are much cheaper and feature richer than those from the dealer.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    The hesitation is most likely the impact of the knock sensor sharply retarding the ignition timing. It hears and reacts quickly when you punch the throttle.

    Years back I had a Camry V6, and could score about 2 mpg higher on premium than regular during the summer months. In the cold I could usually get away with regular, but when warm it 'demanded' better gas. I could feel the sag while only rarely hearing the ping - probably only if it exceeded what the max retard could protect against.

    The 10% increase in mileage more than offset the cost, and it's better for the engine.
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Great info..thanks everyone. I plan to go with the Premium as I work from home and do more around town driving.

    I just picked up the car today. Amazing driving experience...this is my third Outback (1996 & 2001) and I truly appreciate all they have done with these new models.

    Where can I put up some random questions for the crew? Is this the best place? I don't want to hound everyone too much.

    My first question... I love the radio and transferred my XM to now play in the car. The sales guy told me that the FM/Radio mode will ALSO show the station information along with song info. I can't seem to get it to work. Any ideas if the 2008 radios show FM station info?
  • joc1952joc1952 Member Posts: 1
    my 2005 impreza shutters when pulling out with the wheels turned. this an automatic trans. any ideas what is wrong?
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Perhaps it's time to change trans and diff fluids.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Have you done any testing to be certain it only occurs when pulling out?

    Most items that cause vibration and shuddering would be present any time when turning. Try some slow turns in a parking lot and see if it:

    - Is worse when the wheel is turned more
    - Hops
    - Makes any noise - grinding, clicking, roaring
    - Does it behave any differently when accelerating or braking while turning?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Also, I find it can be helpful to perform a figure eight maneuver on a loose gravel surface, as front or rear differential problems will make themselves known more easily by creating excessive wheelspin on the inside of whichever axle is having the problem. A Subaru AWD system operating properly will not slip at all.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • joe356joe356 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 Outback and want to get a trailer hitch installed. Subaru wants $550, but I can get a hitch a lot cheaper through an after market shop at around $315. My question is will the dealer installed hitch fit nicely into the rear bumper or will it basically look identical to an after market hitch. What I'm really worried about is will I see a horizontal bar sitting below the bumper.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I am not sure about the Outback's factory hitch. On the Forester, the factory hitch sits just below the bumper shell, which is the same (although different design) as aftermarket units.

    One thing to consider is that the factory unit is a Class II (1.25" receiver), whereas you can get a Class III (2" receiver) in the aftermarket, usually at the same cost for parts. I find the 2" more robust and versatile.

    Again, if anything like the Forester, aftermarket units for the Outback will not extend further back than the bumper shell itself and sit just below it, which works out to be the same level as the exhaust.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    I agree with Wes' post entirely. I would recommend the 2" hitch despite the fact it will hang below the bumper. (Looks like it has a purpose to me...)

    But if you insist on the 1.25" that is fine. It'll be adequate for a bike rack or so, but not any real towing.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    So those cheesy previews for the movie Godzilla were correct, Size Does Matter. :D
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited August 2011
    When I left work yesterday, my 10 year old next month '02 OBW tossed me a Check Engine light. I felt a little odd rumbling shortly after startup, but nothing too noticeable, and she drove fine going home.

    When I got home, I hooked her up to my Autoenginuity interface and to my laptop, and it showed P0303 (misfire, cyl 3) along with confirmation from the snapshot data that the little rumble was probably the event - 90'F coolant, 1300 rpm, no load, zero mph, etc. There was also a second code of P0304 (misfire, cyl 4).

    I began pulling spark plug wires for a resistance check, and while the boots and coil connections for cyl 1 & 2 were bright shiny, cyl 4 was tarnished, and cyl 3 on both the boot and the coil pack connection were black & charred. Bingo, I think even a half blind guy could figure this one out!

    A little emery cloth cleanup worked temporary wonders to get me thru. I cleared the codes and she ran fine today. New plugs, wires & coil pack are waiting at the parts counter for pickup tomorrow. Hopefully there is nothing else hiding in there behind what appears to be an obvious fault and fix.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited August 2011
    Oh, if only all repairs were so straight-forward! Nicely done, by the way, Steve. ;)

    The auto repair I tended to yesterday - on my "birthday" no less - was seemingly straight forward, but turned out to be far less than cooperative. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Three weeks ago it was front brakes. Within a week of driving, a little front squeal from the wear sensor went from light to critical. By the time I got the pads out (Hawk HPS), the inner pad lower edge on both sides literally crumbled and fell of the backing plate. I was probably a day away from wiping out the rotors. The joys of an aging vehicle.

    So what ruined your birthday? Just turned 29, eh? Happy BD!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited August 2011
    Hahah; yep - 5th anniversary of it!

    It didn't ruin my birthday; I don't put much stock in them anyway, so no harm, no foul.

    Anyway, I was planning to replace a rear suspension component that is slightly bent (in preparation for an alignment tomorrow). This part is something that is not readily available, and must be ordered from "Ford," so it is pretty spendy new ($150). Being the frugal and practical person I am, I decided that such a part should be easily obtainable through a salvage yard. So, I picked one up for $25 on Tuesday with this grand plan of swapping it out in about a half hour's time. Hah.... hahahahahahhahaha! :blush:

    With their engineering genius fully intact, the folks who designed the suspension on this car decided that a single bolt, about 6-7" long, that runs through the rear component I needed to replace, then through two tunneled holes in the wheel spindle, and terminates on the far side of the front-side counterpart to my component, was the best way to approach that challenge.

    It is all well and good, of course, unless a component actually needs replacing! While there was no visible corrosion, the clearance through those "tunnels" in the spindle are so small that the bolt had soundly fused itself to them.

    I pulled the nut off the front side and first tried to pound out the bolt from that end. Nope. I then shot the whole bolt with some liquid wrench and let it sit for a while. I came back and tried the same tactic as above, with the same results. So, I tried turning the bolt from the other end to break the connection. Nope. I tried getting more leverage by using a "breaker bar." Well, I couldn't find any pipe that would fit over the 13/16" wrench I was using, so I went to the shed and pulled out a metal fence post driver (you know those big, heavy, seriously-overkill-for-this-application drivers?). I put that on the wrench, which gave me enough leverage that I could feel the wrench flexing inside it, and nothing. I then placed the whole of my body weight on it and, while literally balancing on the thing, tapped the bolt with a 2# sledge. Nothing. I moved up to pounding with the sledge.... nothing.

    Do you see where this is going? Yes, that's right... no where! :sick:

    So, I decided that the arm wasn't really bent that badly and the shop will just have to make it work. I put everything back together, bled the brakes just to feel like I did something useful, and called it a night.

    Oh, and I replaced the front brake rotors, calipers, pads, tie rod ends, and re-replaced a ball joint (that I "just" replaced two years ago!) on the front end over the weekend... all of which went perfectly well, so I guess I was due.

    Old cars - it's a love or hate relationship! :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Normal tools seem less and less effective in crowded engine bays (and suspensions) nowadays.

    Happy belated b-day.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Thanks.

    I had new tires put on the car yesterday, and it is at the shop for its alignment today, so I hope I get good news at some point this afternoon.... !
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    At least the bolt didn't break! I thought that was where the story was going. Then you would have really been in for a long night of pain and torment.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Hahah, yeah, that would have been less-than-ideal. The bolt itself is quite beefy - probably 5/8" - so that would have been a truly impressive "accomplishment!"

    The alignment on Friday was successful. They were able to bring the toe-in into spec even with the bent part, but the camber is a little out - probably not significant.

    You'll have to keep the car in perspective here, but the after-vs-before of this alignment can only be described as "dreamy." Between the replacement tires and the alignment... ah, what an improvement! :shades:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Hi,

    I just received a recall notice for Subaru to reprogram the emissions control module.

    I'm wondering if you guys are aware of it and if there are any negative repercussions, such as mileage, performance? Or if there are any positive repercussions?

    Do you know why they are doing this? It doesn't say much in the letter.

    Thx
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    This is just the remap, yes?

    I received that letter as well, but have not called the dealership to set up an appointment yet.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We did our 2009 PZEV model. No difference noted, YMMV.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    I don't know what the "remap" is. The letter only states it will improve the performance of the emission control system.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    OK. Thx ateixeira. Hopefully it will be the same for the non-pzev model I have. Unfortunately, I thought I was getting pzev, but didn't. Do they even make non-pzev any more?
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    edited August 2011
    "I just received a recall notice for Subaru to reprogram the emissions control module... Do you know why they are doing this? It doesn't say much in the letter."

    My letter says:
    "... This software update is intended to improve vehicle emissions when the vehicle is operated in cold weather and the engine is turned off and restarted within short periods of time such as in several minute intervals."

    In other words, starting and stopping the engine many times before it has warmed up in cold winter weather used to repeatedly dump a rich mixture into the converter, which hurt emissions and shortened the converter life. The update cures that problem by leaning the mixture somewhat on successive starts.

    There is no reason to expect the update will do anything more than Subaru says it will do.
  • jacobmbeckjacobmbeck Member Posts: 2
    Just took my Legacy into the deal for the WVU31 ECM re-program and my oil change. Get the call to come pick it up and pick it up after work. Pay the bill, get the keys go out to car.

    When I get to my car I go to press the "unlock" button on the key less entry. It doesn't work. I press the "lock" it doesn't work. No response from vehicle at all with either audio or visual signals. Think "hmm this is weird, it could just be a bad battery or something on the key less entry." No biggie, life goes on.

    So I get into the car, turn the car on, go to turn the radio on, and the radio has no power, cannot turn it on or off, cannot raise the volume and there is no lights on where the radio is. Same with the climate control panel. These are the only two symptoms I noticed before turning off the car and returning it to the dealer to figure out what is wrong with it.

    Anyone ever heard of anything similar? They said "We will call you tomorrow to let you know how much it is going to cost when we figure out what it wrong with it." At less than 45,000 miles and this problem arising after they re-programmed the computer, I would think they would cover it.

    Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Yeah, absolutely. If it worked fine when you dropped it off, but doesn't work at all now... it's almost assuredly something that happened while in their possession.

    Did you drive it anywhere, or just turn it on, notice these things, and then go back inside?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jacobmbeckjacobmbeck Member Posts: 2
    Turned it on, noticed, and turned it off. Didn't even bring the car out of the parking spot.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited August 2011
    Then you have a pretty good case to say whatever the cost, it should be on their dime. In fact, I would demand a rental and not even touch the car again until it is put right.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    A blown fuse is the most likely cause.

    Now as to how/why this happened... that is the real mystery.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Interesting.

    Thx, Atherton.

    I was hoping I might get better gas mileage...as this 2010 get about 4mpg less than my 2009 did. I've asked the dealer, but they say nothing a usual when I bring it in.
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Hi team,

    I brought my 2008 Outback H6 LL Bean in for a routing oil change the other day. (38k miles) I also had them check on a rattle I have at just about 40 mph...when slightly accelerating on a hill. My third Subaru... so I know the heat shield sound.

    The tech told me that it was not this as the H6's do not have as many heat shield issues (is this true?)

    They replaced my steering wheel pump under warranty and said that was the issue as it was loose and leaking. Free ..but did not fix it.

    Should I go back and have them check the heat shields again? ONLY happens when already cruising along (not from a stop) around 35-40 mph.. have let off the gas a little and then lightly go to pick up speed. Rather loud ...rattle.

    Don't you love trying to type out the explanation?! :D
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    My 2006 3.0R had heat shield issues. I fixed it by removing the existing nuts and bolts that hold them together and buying some stainless steel bolts and nuts and replacing the old ones. I think they were M4 or M5 size. It was a simple swap out.
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Thanks...I will take a look and see if this is something the mechanically challenged can do!

    I did notice another odd engine thing last night. The H6 is generally smooth when shifting...this time, I lightly pressed on the gas it the car seemed to vibrate for a second before finding its gear. I figure this is just the normal Subaru auto transmission feeling? My other 2001 had 'quirky' shifts too.

    I always drive in Sport setting in my SI-Drive.
  • rybreadrybread Member Posts: 2
    got a 1999 impreza rs mt .swaped my engine and mt from 2000 forseter.Got it all together put the battery on and all i have is hazards and door locks. everything else is not working. any suggestions
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    You may need to swap the computer, and possibly even the wiring harness, to get it right.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • larue4larue4 Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    1.8 litre engine.

    From dead start, a deep bass like rattle and thumping begins under the hood, under the engine, about midway between driver and passenger side. As I accelerate past 15mph or so, it goes away.

    THought it was suspension, maybe driveshaft issues but my wrenches did lower ball joints, then did both cv 1/2 shafts (boots were torn and shot, grease all over).

    When I turn left or right from a dead stop same problem, sometimes less sometimes worse, just like a straight line start.

    If I put the tranny into 4WD (shifter button) there is no noise at all!!!!! WHich leads me away from suspension related issues?

    Any thoughts? Drive train? Not suspension? Internal tranny splines where half shafts lock into?

    Thanks in advance.

    Larue
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I am not overly familiar with the layout of the 1.8L's drivetrain, so I cannot pinpoint anything, but that sounds to me like an out-of-balance issue in a driveshaft. Perhaps a bushing through which a shaft passes is worn out? Basically, the slow rotational speed and initial torque is causing something to flex, which puts it out of balance and makes it vibrate/thump. As soon as the speed increases and/or the torque eases, it smooths out and is good to go until the next alignment of symptoms.

    The part that makes me uncertain about this diagnosis is that it is in the area of the front differential. When I have experienced this in the past, it was in the drive shaft bushing for the rear differential.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • larue4larue4 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks xwesx . . . I'll run that by my shop . . .
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    edited October 2011
    Hmmmm, another one been around a while. When you did the half shafts, you did not mention whether they where replaced, repaired or what. I quit years ago doing my own halfshafts and now use a lifetime warranty units from either Rockauto.com or O'reillys. It helps with balance issues/ or bent shafts!

    It is not uncommon for outer c/v bearings to sound off in turns when defective. You did mention torn boots.

    Bottom line, I concur. Start with Cv shafts. I also recommend sparaying the boots with a silicone spary every oil change to make them last longer. Cheap and sure beats changing them.
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