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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm not sure. They specify the 12 month period to adjust things like the clutch pedal height. It's a standard industry practice.

    You have the B2B warranty, of course, and that might cover the window seal. But read the fine print, B2B does not mean everything between the bumpers (think wear and tear).

    -juice
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    $1.36 for 87 proof, $1.56 for the good stuff (92) @ Costco, Spokane Valley. Everywhere else is about 7 cents higher. Not a big deal with the Subaru, but the motorhome's a different story!

    Finally bid good riddance to the anemic factory horn - NAPA had a Fiamm 120db for 15 bucks. Better, louder, but I prefer the airhorns on the work truck!

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • flasksflasks Member Posts: 14
    The only disappointment with my VDC Outback is the whimmpy horn. Can I replace this horn with a louder horn without upseting the computer or something else? Thanks a lot. Flasks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Get some horns from hella. Check out http://www.rallylights.com/hella/horns.asp Ken over there is great. You can just wire em up in parrallel with your stock horns.


    -mike

  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I've had a set of air horns, similar to p/n 85105 on the website Mike gave above, for eons.

    I'd love to install them on the subie but unfortunately, I can't find a good mounting location for then. There just isn't much room in the engine compartment!

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    2 sets of double trumpets on the SVX if I can find a spot to put em. :) If not I'll go with the other type of horns for the SVX.

    -mike
  • hgutsteinhgutstein Member Posts: 65
    Planning to take it to the dealer next month. Lots of squeaks, especially in front when turning/coming out of my driveway. Think they ran out of grease on my car!
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Celica,

    I'm not sure if it's written anywhere, but dealers will fix or address almost anything, however minor (like squeaks), you mention in the first year or 12K miles. Of course, that excludes any obvious abuse-related problems.

    It's best to get little niggles taken care of early on.

    Ken
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    On an older car a just put in Engine-RX. Smoothed and quieted the older engine. They recommended a yearly application even on newer ones.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Yeah, Utah is filled with Subies. Very popular here. I don't know about this year, but for the last 5 years there has been over 20% growth each year. It's no wonder that there are now 6 dealerships instead of two.

    Overall my best repair experiences have not been dealers, but former Subaru Dealership mechanics. Hope you can find a good one. I have found two.
  • drivrdrivr Member Posts: 1
    got an 01 outback. for some reason my check engine light keeps going on and off. sometimes it'll stay on for days and then go off. at first i thought it was the gas. i run super or premium, but the funny thing is that the light goes on at the oddest times.
    i maybe half into a tank of gas and it'll go on.then i start it up and it's not on for some time. other than that it runs like a champ. i'm about to email New Motors in erie,pa where i got it (2hrs away) but i wondered if anyone else had this problem.
  • pgh4pgh4 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 Lagacy-O/B wagon, auto-transmission, with approx 30000 miles. When pulling away from a dead stop, and sometimes when moving along slowly at light throttle, a rattling sound comes from under vehicle. I've heard about loose heat shields and rocks collecting in them. Got under car and shield pieces are intact, and doesn't appear to be any rocks. My parents' early 80's Nissan made a similar noise and mechanic said it was a flywheel problem...... I don't think my O/B has that kind of an issue but wondered if anyone has thoughts or experience with similar sounds.
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    sure sounds like the heat shield to me. Remember, it doesn't have to be very loose to start vibrating. Especially on a 2000, I can;t imagine anything else going south in that area.
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    I heard some people saying that some engin cleaner will cause oil leaking. I am not sure that is ture or not. What about steam wash the engin? I am wondering how do people take care of their show car. Everything looked so shine under the hood.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Jim: my buddy bugbomb had one and custom made a mounting bracket, then bolted it to the ABS controller. Look behind the passenger side headlight to see if there is room there.

    The bracket he made was just metal that he bent into a U shape. That bolted onto the ABS controller, and the horns bolted to the bracket. That thing was LOUD though.

    Check the gear oil levels if you've already looked at the heat shields.

    -juice
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I have a 99 Forester and a 01 Legacy GT. Both have an identical boxes on the top of the engine. In the Legacy the airfilter is in that box However the Forester also has second box close to the passenger side fender in which the airfilter resides, the box on top is empty. Wonder if I can take the bottom air filter out and use the same larger in filter for the top box as I have it in the Legacy GT? Why do they have this set up differently?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It may have to do with the location of the mass air flow sensors. In the Forester, the air running by that is already clean, filtered. I'm not sure why the GT's isn't, because it could shorten the life of the MAF if that's the case.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I'll be transferring my Amsoil filter to the WRX since it's still in perfect condition.

    What was the trick with using the plastic bags? Just place the filter in it, add oil and squeeze it around?? :-)

    The WRX has a MAS, correct? Anyone know what the 2.2L on the 97 OBS has? I never had any issues with it and always get the sensors mixed up.
    The MAF is the more fragile one, correct?

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    drivr: CELs are very common nowadays, and you can thank the feds for the OBDII stanards that force manufacturers to trigger a malfunction light for even a loose gas cap.

    So right away, I'd say make sure you tighten that gas cap until a clicks, a few times even. Any leak in the system, which needs a vacuum to capture fumes, will turn a light on.

    A dealer can scan the codes to find out what was being reported, since they are stored. A single engine misfire could trigger the light, for instance. Say from condenstation in the fuel lines (i.e. water in the gas). Try to keep your fuel tank full, especially when it's really cold. Forget running on empty, it's not a good idea.

    Generally, if the car's running well, just have your dealer scan the codes at the next oil change. If it's stumbling or hesitating, take it in. If the light is blinking on and off, park it and call for roadside assistance, as any driving can be harmful at that point.

    Though the blinking light is pretty rare.

    -juice
  • jmac94jmac94 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 Impreza 2.5RS with the round fog lamps and this past weekend a rock must have hit the passenger side lamp and broke the glass lens. Has this happened to anyone else? I'm wondering how often these large lamps will break without any protection. I called the dealer to get a replacement lens and I was told I had to buy the whole light assembly which is $170. That's close to what I paid to have the fog lamp option on the car when I bought it in mid July.

    Joe
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Try a wholesaler, e-mail parts@libertysubaru.com for a better price. Or go aftermarket.

    -juice
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    >>What was the trick with using the plastic bags? Just place the filter in it, add oil and squeeze it around?? :-)<<

    Yes, that's what I did. Of course, I blotted it with a newspaper once I was done squeezing it and before I reinstalled it in the filter box.

    Ed
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Dennis,

    Your WRX actually has both a Mass Air Flow sensor and a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. Your OBS should've had both as well, but the newer naturally aspirated models make due with only a MAP. (They inversely calculate airflow by the MAP instead of directly metering it as a MAF does. This isn't as accurate.)

    The WRX's MAF should be pretty reliable. It was only the 1999 Japanese-built engines that have an unreliable MAF sensor; the Forester, Impreza RS and WRX / Impreza turbo. (the latter not being a problem for North Americans, since we didn't get a WRX in 1999.)

    About the oiling, after cleaning and drying the filter just put it in a plastic bag and add a tiny amount of oil. Work it carefully into the filter, taking care not to bend the aluminum frame built-in to the filter. Add more in small amounts as needed, but do no overoil.

    -Colin
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    get light protection...


    http://www.xpel.com/

    check this thread from the i-club

    http://forums.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=199597&highlight=clear+fog

  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    bluesubie,

    Oiling the filter in the bag keeps your hands clean and makes it easier to spread the oil around evenly. Also, I like to warm the oil (stick the bottle in some warm water) before using it -- it lowers it's viscosity and makes it easier to apply.

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Ken/Colin/Ed - thanks for the tips!
    And Colin, thanks for the MAF / MAP tutorial! :-)

    -Dennis
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Great links Serge!
    I've seen the Aussie/UK(?) protectors and I'm definitely getting some.

    Patti, please pass on suggestions to expand the U.S. option choices. Looks like I'll be ordering light protectors and a rear cupholder from the UK.

    -Dennis
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Just made the apointment for 30k service. Approximately what is everyone paying out there? Service manager quoted me $550. Seemed a bit high?

    service included: brake, coolant, AT fluid, and differental flush and fill. New plugs. Oil, fuel and air filters and tire rotation. plus some inspections...

    --jay
  • jmac94jmac94 Member Posts: 7
    Juice and Serge, thanks for the quick reply. I'm definitely looking into those lamp protectors. Wish I knew about them before breaking a lamp. Oh well...

    Joe
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    jay,

    $550 does seem high for what's needed. Ask the service manager if they can give you a complete "menu" of service items they include in the 30K. Reference that against what's in your maintenance booklet and decide what's necessary. Many times, dealers will put in additional service items that are discretionary. You should be able to reduce the price by removing some of those items.

    Ken
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    mrdetailer - if the mechanics you mentioned wouldn't mind a referral (i doubt they would mind) could you post the names of these shops or email them to me: outback_97@hotmail.com My service contract is about to expire so i'll be looking outside of my current dealer for service in the future. Thanks for your time!

    jay_24: i agree with kens recommendation on dealer service. see what you're paying for which part of the service, whether it can be done cheaper elsewhere, and if they're doing more than what subaru recommends. to justify the service, shops often (rightfully so) point out that most vehicles are in fact driven under the conditions that the manufacturer considers "severe", e.g. lots of short trips, temperature extremes, etc. fwiw, i paid about that much for 60K service, since that time my opinion of this dealer and their service has eroded so i will be going elsewhere for the 90K.
  • jimbob17jimbob17 Member Posts: 77
    I somehow followed a thread and got to the NHTSA website or whatever the letter configuration is. Someone submitted a complaint that their open wheel Forester (02 I believe) was subject to accumulating mud and ice in the wheel openings causing loss of wheel balance and shimmying. My sister has had and open wheel PT Cruiser for a couple of years and not seen this problem. Has anyone else?
  • msmcgoomsmcgoo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Sedan. In the first 2 months of ownership, I have had paint start flaking and peeling from the titanium paint color. Is anyone else having this issue? If you have, how did the dealership or Subaru Corp. rectify the issue?
    Thanks
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    Your '99 Forester has a Phase I ej25 engine with a MAF sensor. These engines also have a "torque chamber'" that big empty box there in the center. It isn't an air cleaner box- it is just a reservoir of already filtered air that prevents oxygen starvation under quick throttle inputs. Your'01 uses the Phase II ej25 engine with a MAP and no torque chamber.

    I'm sure Colin can tell you why the one engine needs it and the other doesn't; I couldn't engineer my way out of a paper bag.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Actually, I think the '99s had Phase IIs, or at least a SOHC hybrid design.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Wow, if it's just 2 months demand a re-paint, no doubt. People do complain about easy chipping, but not quite to the extent you're facing.

    Jim: yes, I've felt it myself and heard at least one other person complain. Ice and slush got inside my steel wheels and threw the wheels off balance.

    Short term, you can just use your fingers to remove the slush.

    Long term, wax your wheels. I'm serious. That makes the surface more slippery, so ice can't "stick". At least keep the inside of the wheels clean (easiest when you rotate the tires, every 7.5k miles).

    Note that this is universal, not just on Subies. You can wax alloys, too, if they're painted, as most are.

    -juice
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Jay,

    Last month I had the 30K service done. The dealer quoted me $400, but after a AAA discount(which they have now discontinued for some reason), and using my own synthetic fluids, it wound up costing ~$325.

    Mark
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Thanks for the feedback. I think some of the cost difference may be in the amount of service done. Drain and flush Auto Trans v.s. just drain and fill v.s. inspect...

    Here is the Subaru 30,000 mile service from the my.subaru page. There is a lot of 'inspect' where the dealer I'm going to is doing a flush and replace...

    Inspect Steering and suspension
    Inspect Clutch operation
    Perform Inspect brake lines and check op...
    Inspect Brake linings and drums
    Inspect Disc brake pads and discs.....
    Replace Brake fluid
    Inspect Automatic transmission fluid
    Inspect Transmission/Differential....
    Replace Spark plugs
    Replace Air cleaner element
    Recommended Performance Replace fuel filter
    Perform Replace engine coolant
    Replace Engine oil filter
    Replace Engine oil
    Inspect Camshaft drive belt
    Inspect Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft]
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Jay,

    It's actually a good idea to have your AT fluid drained and replaced on a regular basis.

    The only item on the list you posted that requires some mechanical experience is replacing the spark plugs. Everything else is fairly straightforward.

    Ken
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    Anyone know what the normal oil pan temperature range on the phase II 2.5 is ?

    We have the gauge pack (calibrated in Celsius), and see temperatures in the oil pan (sensor replaces the drain plug) between ~72 and ~95, with a peak under heavy load of ~110. Those translate to ~162 to ~203 with a peak of 230 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Running Pennzoil 10w-30 in the summer, 5w-30 in the winter. It's the summer grade I'm wondering about.

    FWIW, the engine temp gauge has never budged off of dead center, and I watch it (them actually) like a hawk, especially when I'm towing. It's interesting to see that the engine temp gauge shows "warmed up" well before the oil pan comes off of the cold peg in the winter.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Ken,
    I agree with nearly everything on the list. Isn't draining much cheaper than a flush?

    Also how about brake fluid change. I hear many of you talking about that, but I've never done it with my other cars... Obviously brakes are important to keep working in good order. Others I work with also questioned it.

    --jay
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Mark, are you talking about Flemington?
    Are you sure they discontinued the discount? Last time I was there they had a new computer that didn't retain the AAA info, and you have to show it at each service.

    I'll find out for sure this weekend when I pick up my plates.

    Jay - Those items are for "normal" service and not "severe" correct?

    My current dealer is about $100 cheaper than my previous dealer on the big (30k, 60k) services. Plus, they give you a loaner regardless of where you bought the car. It pays to shop around

    -Dennis
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Called another subaru dealer and their price was $410, but didn't include transmission or differential fluid changes. He thought AT should be changed at 15k. I didn't see that in the my.subabru list for 15k. My old GMC jimmy had it at 45k.

    I believe the items I listed are for normal driving. The my.subaru page didn't seem to specify... I should go out and read my manual :0

    I too get a "free" loaner. Usually an acura integra.

    --jay
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    jay,

    One thing to keep in mind is that the my.subaru service items are directly out of your owner's manual. The list reflects a minimum set of service items under normal driving conditions. It's better to err on the safe side for certain items like AT fluid and engine oil.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Inspect Steering and suspension
    Check/add PS fluid level, grease sways with lithium, hose out spring bases

    Inspect Clutch operation
    Grease pedal, check gear oil level

    Perform Inspect brake lines and check op...
    This is really *after* bleeding as per below

    Inspect Brake linings and drums
    Look at rotors and drums for scrapes, warping

    Inspect Disc brake pads and discs.....
    Measure pad thickness, if worn replace

    Replace Brake fluid
    Bleed 'em, you need a 2nd person to help with that

    Inspect Automatic transmission fluid
    Check ATF level, add, gear oil if MT

    Inspect Transmission/Differential....
    Check gear oil level in both places, add 75w90 if needed

    Replace Spark plugs
    self-explanatory

    Replace Air cleaner element
    air filter

    Recommended Performance Replace fuel filter
    fuel filter

    Perform Replace engine coolant
    flush/fill

    Replace Engine oil filter
    check to make sure the rubber gasket from the old filter was removed

    Replace Engine oil
    don't forget the 17mm crush washer

    Inspect Camshaft drive belt
    look for hairline cracks, fraying

    Inspect Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft]
    same for all belts

    None of this is hard, in fact it's a good check list. I'd rotate the tires and change the wiper blades, too.

    The one thing that might be tough it inspecting the rear diffy oil level, since that 1/2" drive bolt is a bear to remove.

    -juice
  • jimbob17jimbob17 Member Posts: 77
    A strange cocktail?
    Thanks. I'll let my sister know about your tip for her PT Cruiser and try it myself.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Thanks for all the info on the 30k service. I'm letting them do it all. I just don't have the time to do some it myself. For all the fluids they are doing a flush and fill.

    They gave me a 02 legacy GT for a loaner! It seems more responsive than my 01 OB. The engine seems louder both in the car and out. It also has a tad more road noise and a bit less head room due to the moon roof(s). We will be taking the long way back to the dealer this afternoon :)

    --jay
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Probably the lower profile tires making the extra noise.

    Those same tires also have smaller diameter, making gearing effectively shorter than your OB. It'll be quicker off the line, but revs will be a bit higher on the highway.

    -juice
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Thats what I was thinking...sure is fun to drive and its nice to have a descent loaner for the day! maybe an extended lunch break...

    --jay
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    Fram now has an engine oil drain valve, the SureDrain. It requires a twist on drain hose with a pin that opens a valve spring. See the bottom right diagram on Auto Barn.

    Contrast the design of Fumoto, whose valve actuates with a lever but has an optional nipple to attach a drain hose. A small quantity (10-15cc) of dirty oil pools in a recessed portion of the plug. See photos and notch mod at ScoobyMods, currently down.

    FYI, per a Fram email, a Subaru engine oil pan's drain plug has a 20mm x 1.5mm thread size:
    According to our latest research data, Subaru uses a 20mm X 1.5mm thread size on their engine oil pans. At this time Fram does not offer a Sure Drain plug in this thread size. As demand for Sure Drain increases, the Marketing Department will re-evaluate the potential for larger drain plug sizes before additional Sure Drain oil drain plugs are being offered.
    So currently, Fram SureDrain isn't an option for Subarus.

    Per Fumoto:
    The drain valve is approximately 7/8" thick and protrudes 1/2" more than the regular plug head from the oil pan. The nipple on the N-Types Valve extends from the valve for 5/8". We do not recommend using the N-Types valve for vehicles with low clearance, as the valve may stick out too far against the ground.
    For those with a Fumoto, did you buy a F105 or F105 N (with nipple to attach a drain hose)? Does the F105 dribble oil on the plastic cowling? Any clearance issues?

    Cheers,

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

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